Mitsubishi convergence IC's used in the differant models

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CPhillips
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How do I do the slap test?

How do I do the slap test? Never heard of it I'm willing to try anything at this point. Hye, thanks too for trying to help me

King_Ped
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CPhillips said: How do I do

CPhillips said: How do I do the slap test? Never heard of it I'm willing to try anything at this point. Hye, thanks too for trying to help me

Just kick the left or the right side of your TV.......

dupiece
dupiece's picture
Larry, I appreciate all your

Larry, I appreciate all your insight and comments as well as your time. All Information in the discussion as well as others you have added has helped greatly thus far. I have replaced my ICs mitsu model vs50803 and when powered up everything was perfect. I went to grab my xbox to test and when I returned the convergence was out again. I resoldered all pins and it is still way out. Any thoughts you might have are very appreciated. Thanks

Mike 55809
Mike 55809's picture
I did the slap test and the

I did the slap test and the picture corrected itself immediately.

I also discovered a lose wire in the front of my TV -WS-55809, center circuit.

Open the front pannel, find the center circuit board, look for the giant heat sink that runs horizontal across the circuit board. There you should find a brown wire attached by a screw to the center heat sink leg. I could move this brown wire. To tighten, do not solder, as you might risk damaging other parts. I took a alligator clip jumper wire and attached one to the brown wire and the other end to the heat sink. The picture corrected itself and now works perfectly.

Mike55809

gsmith
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c phillips check your tv

c phillips check your tv trouble code and then pico fuses. pico fuses will be your problem!!

Rob OD
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Larry,

Larry,

No one seems to have an answer posted to this blinking light for Mitsubishi ws55513. I have same issue w/ no power on just blinking light. Can you send me the fix as well. robod@snet.net Your the best!

Rob

jwoodward
jwoodward's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,
I have a Mitsubishi VS-45605 tv and when turned on it used to have a rolling screen for the first 30 minutes but now it is a permanent rolling screen. I have read many forums that say that if you replace the PIP module it would fix this problem. The problem is that this set is part of the VS7 series and they do not have a standalone PIP module. Any help with this o so annoying rolling screen would be greatly appriciated!! My email is jmwoodward1@gmail.com. Thanks again!

Josh

Joetis
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The problen started off with

The problen started off with convergence problems then the TV would turn on for a second(just sound) then shut down.withe the timer light on steady.. Now the timer lght stays on and the TV does nothing when power button is pressed .I tryed unplugging and waiting 10min and plugging back in no help the set is a mitsubishi vs-45609...I have the schematics and training manual..I replaced the stk393-110 convergence IC still no help I don't even get the green light or the sound of the relay kicking in. Any Ideas

lulu
lulu's picture
my mits ws-50111 wont turn on

my mits ws-50111 wont turn on when i press the power button i hear a click but nothing happens... anyone know what could be wrong? how about someplace cheap to get it fixed? im pretty mechanically enclined so if its not too complicated i could do it.

thanks sooo much

tankforemen
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Hey Larry, First off I want

Hey Larry, First off I want to say thanks you know your stuff! I got my Mits fixed it had the green blinking lite thing and I took the DM out and finally found someone to put the caps on the board and no more problem with the light thing!!! But!!!! When I truned it on I now have a convergence issue But its only with the blue light the red one is fine the blue one will not adjust or anything. More than likely it got bumped or somthing when I moved it to work on the DM board It is a Mits WS-65513 can you head me in the right direction with this problem? Please after all it is football season!!!! Thanks My E-mail is Charlie156@verison.net

tankforemen
tankforemen's picture
Hey Larry, Please forgive me

Hey Larry, Please forgive me for I have sinned. I finally got my head out of my shorts and found that I had pulled the plugg on the blue light when I slid the chassis out to get to the DM board. Everything is fine now. Thank you again very much for all your help!!

Matt D
Matt D's picture
I am going to keep my fingers

I am going to keep my fingers crossed here that perhaps I did the same thing when replacing those caps on the DM board also. Where was the blue light plug wire pulled out from? Also, what color was the wire etc? I have a 55813 and the same exact thing happened to me. I looked for any loose wires that may have affected the blue convergence, but came up empty. Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks.

fixitherself
fixitherself's picture
Same blinking green light for

Same blinking green light for days before our Mitsubishi WS 55813 comes on. This time it doesn't appear to be going to come on. Can you send me info and how to fix this? Thanks

sammonselectronics
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I need service manual for WS

I need service manual for WS 65819 anyone know where I can down load?

SAMMONS ELECTRONICS
121 Garrett Way
Milledgeville, Georgia 31061
(478) 452-5274

lollibug
lollibug's picture
Hello-

Hello-
I have never used one of these sites before, so hope I'm doing it right. I am an older woman with a VS-55705 Mitsubishi Big Screen TV. My husband has spinal cancer and I can't afford to get it fixed. It had a lot of horizontal lines running up and down it really fast. Now when you turn it on it is just a black screen. I don't understand any electrical jargon (kids just got me my first computer), so I was wondering if there was a manual you can buy that explains in simple terms how I might be able to fix this. TV is Mick's only source of entertainment now that he's gotten worse, so it's kind of important to me.
Thank you for any advise, and have a nice day.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
even with a manual ai am

even with a manual ai am afraid you would ned special troubleshooting equipment and know how to read a schematic. I am afraid the best thing to do would be to call in a tech. sorry.

Resque
Resque's picture
Hi; Larry

Hi; Larry

I have Mitsubishi Big Screen T.V. Mod # WS55819 and had a service man come out and replace one of the HIC-STK392-570 on my T.V because the Red was off alingment from the other Blue/Green and was charged $460.00 for the service call and part. Then 8 months latter the Picture got to the point that the three are off alingment so I do the auto convergment and it still the same sometimes it will correct itself for a short time and then go back to the way it was.

Now the T.V. will only power up for about 5 secs and then shut off, I know that there is a test that check the boards by the power light blinking and giving a code if there is an error or something wrong with the boards it shows that everything is working but the T.V. still shuts off after the 5 secs I also know that you can reset everything back to factory defalt but it doesn't stay on long enough to hit the ( A/V reset ) & ( Input buttons ) at the same time to reset.

I've taken the back cover off and pulled the board that houses the HIC-STK392-570 chips and found out that the Tech didn't screw down the heat sink to the track that the boards slide out on and that the cables were not tied down like they were originaly so when I pulled the board out I checked the resistors and fuses and found that ( F9A02 ) part # 283P044020 Fuse-LF251 10 amp was bad also
( F9A04 ) part # 283P043090 Fuse-LF251 5 amp was also bad

Can you tell me were I can locate these parts so that they will be compatable to the set and reliable parts ordering supply house that will not rip you off and original part for my set again.

I have a Mitsubishi 55

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
try replacing the fuse and at

try replacing the fuse and at the same time resolder the convergence ic and see if that helps.

zizzoom
zizzoom's picture
(Larry, You are a wealth of

(Larry, You are a wealth of information!!)
I am SO glad I stumbled across this thread!! I have a Mitsubishi WT-46807 with the red, blue, yellow and green "ghosting" problem. I also have a convex, "bowed" picture. I received the TV as a discard from my sister-in-law and would like to fix it because my other TV is over 15 yrs old and I cant afford another one! I assume from reading the posts that I have a convergence IC problem. Please advise if I'm incorrect. My other problem is that I need a service manual for the TV. Would someone please email me with a copy if they have one? smokinsmiler@yahoo.com
Thank you in advance!

WoogieBoogie
WoogieBoogie's picture
Hey Larry,

Hey Larry,
As I posted earlier on the 10th page I had 3 burnt resistors and the Blue convergence was way out of whack on my WS-65903. I replaced both IC's and the 3 resistors. The resistors are the same 5.6 ohms but are smaller. I tried turning the TV on and the blue is out of whack and it has a blue ghosting effect now as well as blue bowing. Could it be the resistors? The red and green are still good and can line up good in the convergence menu but the blue is worse than it was. The board is burnt where the resistors burned can that be the problem? Also, there were 3 pins at the end of one of the IC's that did not have any pads on the board that could be solder to so the solder wouldnt connect the pins to the board. I heard there are pins that may not be used and was hoping these 3 werent. They were the last three in a row and I couldnt find where they would have connected to on the board.

 Any help would be great Larry. I would like to compensate you well if you can help me get this TV working again.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
always use the same rating or

always use the same rating or wattage of the original part. this is not only for Saftey but circuit imegety, I doubt if the resitors are causing this poblem. I never had any extra pins on any convergence IC job I have done unless I had the WRONG IC. Do both IC's have extra pins? What is the number on the IC's?
Larry

WoogieBoogie
WoogieBoogie's picture
Larry Dillon said: always use

Larry Dillon said: always use the same rating or wattage of the original part. this is not only for Saftey but circuit imegety, I doubt if the resitors are causing this poblem. I never had any extra pins on any convergence IC job I have done unless I had the WRONG IC. Do both IC's have extra pins? What is the number on the IC's? Larry

Thanks for the quick response Larry. The convergence IC's were the correct ones and the same model as the originals. STK392-040 off the top of my head. May be wrong. I didnt have extra pins. There were 3 holes for the last three pins and they are in the holes but there are no metal pads or wires in the last three holes to solder to... Could that be the problem? How would I properly solder those three pins with nothing to solder to? If I knew where they went I guess I could use a jumper wire to each pin? The 2 new IC's are exactly the same as well as the same as the old 2. It cant be just a setup causing the bow and ghosting of the blue can it?

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Did yo maybe tear off the

Did yo maybe tear off the solder pad going to those pins? post a picture of the pC board please. or send the picture to me.

dupiece
dupiece's picture
Larry, I have a Mitsubishi vs

Larry, I have a Mitsubishi vs-50803 the convergence went out so I replaced the ICs with stk 392-040 as per the spec list. Everthing worked perfectly and then a few minutes later (while out of the room) it snapped back to bowed picture. Do ICs go bad that quickly or do I need to relplace the pico fuses? What are the proper fuses for this model? I would appreciate your insight.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
genrally, no IC's do not go

genrally, no IC's do not go bad that soon, bUT,were the IC"S aftrmarket types or original SANYO type IC"s? Allso did you use heat sink compound on the backs of the new IC's before you insatalled them?

WoogieBoogie
WoogieBoogie's picture
Larry Dillon said: Did yo

Larry Dillon said: Did yo maybe tear off the solder pad going to those pins? post a picture of the pC board please. or send the picture to me.

I believe it was like that. I may have torn them off because I left the heatsink on when remvoing the board but I doubt it. Pictures of the burnt part of the board are on the middle of page 10. I will go and remove the board and take picture of the 3 pads missing. Thanks again for the help.

WoogieBoogie
WoogieBoogie's picture
Alright, heres a picture. If

Alright, heres a picture. If you want a wider shot let me know. Its the first 3 in a row that dont have solder pads. You can see the first two with solder that wouldnt stick. I believe this is the Horizontal correction chip and the horrizontal blue was bow tied. The IC location on the board is IC8D01. I have the service manual but it is not in depth and does not have the scematics for the chips. Its not a repair manual.

Anyone here is a pic. I think the only thing I can do is us a jumper wire if I knew where each pin went. I checked the other pins and followed their terminals on the board and they are all working.

For a better res pic. Your PMs are turned off so I cant message it to you. Thanks again for any help.

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t241/LoudmouthGTO/?action=view&current=HPIM1113.jpg

Solder Pads

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
looks like you have broken

looks like you have broken solde pads, you will need to scrape of the paint and run small jumper wires to the printed ciuit trsce to the ic pins, also some of the solder connecions on the rest of the pins do not look solid, they look like bad or cold solder connections.

WoogieBoogie
WoogieBoogie's picture
Larry Dillon said: looks like

Larry Dillon said: looks like you have broken solde pads, you will need to scrape of the paint and run small jumper wires to the printed ciuit trsce to the ic pins, also some of the solder connecions on the rest of the pins do not look solid, they look like bad or cold solder connections.

Alright, Ill redo the solder on the rest of them. As for those three you want me to scratch off the white paint right near them and wire it to the unscratched part? Or do you mean scratcha round the hole? Can you elaborate more as to exactly what the wire would be soldered to? Thank you.

dupiece
dupiece's picture
I did use heat sink and the

I did use heat sink and the ICs were aftermarket so I ordered new factory originals and once installed (with heat sink) they didn't fix the issue. So, I assume something went wrong elsewhere. What is the likely culprit?

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