Mitsubishi convergence IC's used in the differant models

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ScooterJ
ScooterJ's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I am new to this post. I have a five year old ws6511 and to my disapointment I am starting to see the bowtie effect and a "doubling" of text, etc. I fear after reading all these posts that I need to replace the IC's. I would like to know if this is a job where if I buy all the necessary new parts from the right guy if it is just plug and play or I absolutely need to solder, etc? Do you have a post that tells exactly the steps to follow?...thanks...sj

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Yes you have to solder, and

Yes you have to solder, and no it is not plug and play, there might be some minor alighnment involved after replacing the iC's There is a post that tells about changing the IC's but it is a different model. I do not have a post on this model yet. Maybe soon.

ScooterJ
ScooterJ's picture
on a scale of 1-10 how would

on a scale of 1-10 how would you rate the difficulty of this job? Basically if there is no post on this model....would you then recommend paying to have it fixed?
thanks,

scott

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
it would depend on if you can

it would depend on if you can solder on printed circuit boards. If you know anyone who can or if you can, you could save up 500 bucks or so if you do this repair yourself.

acseattle
acseattle's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

I have WS-65413. The red vertical line doesnÂ’t move at all when I am trying to convergence because the red color is way off. I have tried the Fine convergence and the Coarse convergence but still the red vertical line doesnÂ’t move. The red horizontal line move as I move around. Should I replace both STK394-250? Or is there any other area I should check? I have the service manual.
I reapplied solder to make sure there are no bad connections in IC8C01 and IC8C02, but it shows same problem – only the red vertical line doesn’t move at all.

Thanks again for your input.

acseattle
acseattle's picture
Thanks Larry!

Thanks Larry!

I ordered the parts from the place you have recommanded in this thread.

Out of curiosity, I checked a couple of registers. R8C31, R8C23, R8C39 - R-METAL-P 3W 150-J. It seems to me those resistors are connected input and output signals around the IC. All those metal resistors reads .9 ohm instead of 150 ohm. Is this normal? Maybe I donÂ’t know how to measure these metal resistors.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
No they measure like that

No they measure like that because they are called feedback resistors and if you disconnted the convergence yokes, they would measure fine.

Jason Gurzell
Jason Gurzell's picture
Larry, first off I just

Larry, first off I just wanted to say thank you for all the help you have offered users on this forum. I have found the help on this forum invaluable. A couple weeks ago my Mitsubishi ws-65511 went out and was doing the typical "green blinking light for 2 seconds and then powering down" and thanks to reading several of your messages I was able to locate and replace the blown pico fuses. After replacing the fuses the TV will now stay powered on but the colors do not line up. The red is about 2 inches lower than the blue and green and as it approaches the right side of the TV is drops of the screen (The blue and green line up fine). The horizontal will adjust but the vertical will not. I ordered the new convergence chip from MCM and replaced it last weekend (I believe this model only has the 1 convergence chip; the V21 chassis) and I think I did a pretty good job with the soldering but now when I turn the set on, I am having the same convergence issue with the red vertical not being adjustable. Do you think there are any other pieces I can test / replace that would fix this or do you think they shipped me a bad convergence chip?
-Jason
jgurzell@hotmail.com

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
There are most likely bad

There are most likely bad resistors in the convergence circuit. That is why I say if you find a bad pico DO Not REPLACE IT Untill you replace the IC or you wioll burn out the resistors. Now you will need to look at the schematic and the resistors on the board and see what got burned out.

Jason Gurzell
Jason Gurzell's picture
Thanks, any tips for doing

Thanks, any tips for doing this?, i saw on another post you listed all the resistors and thier expected readings for another model television, do you have the same information for the V21 chassie? I am good enough with a multimeter to test the resistors but i was never trained electronically so i have a hard time reading the schematics to determine which resistors i need.

It seems from some of the other posts i have read that all the resistros in the convergence circuit are in the "R8***" series so my current game plan is to test all of those and hope i get lucky.

-Jason

P.S. Larry thanks again, the time you put into these fourms is greatly appreciated.

texas repair rookie
texas repair rookie's picture
I have a WS-55819. I've

I have a WS-55819. I've successfully pulled the middle circuit board out of the TV (what a royal pain in the butt!). I've read through the posts and seen discussion about pulling the entire chassis out of the back of the TV. Does anyone have any detailed instructions on pulling out the entire chassis? It sure would make putting the middle circuit board back in place quite a bit easier - especially putting the heat sink back into place on the convergence chips. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
first off you do not pull the

first off you do not pull the heat sink off the IC's! you disconnect the ICs from the heat sink. To take out the entire chassis you need to disconnect several cables as well as unscrew the chassis on each side, ot some have tabs toward the front of the chassis and is accessable from the front of the set.

cvts1
cvts1's picture
Larry:

Larry:

I have a misubishi vs50800 rptv. This weekend the screen sucessively turned red, green, then blue, while a black curtain came across the screen from above and below.  then the screen went black.  Now I  have no picture at all but normal sound.  I was told its a convergence problem.  Any isea what it could be and  how to fix it.  A local shop wants 350-5--$ to come out and fix it..does this sound reasonable...is it worth it?  How much would it cost me to fix it myself?  How difficult is it?Thank you.

Sean_Fahey
Sean_Fahey's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I got roped into fixing my General Mamager's Mitsubishi WS-65311 TV purchased in 2003. I am a broadcast/Studio Engineer so I can do what is needed, I'm just not that familiar with these sets. Here is the problem and what I have done so far;

The TV has a mind of it's own..Meaning sometimes the set will stay on for 12 or 13 hours straight (it was left on) without shutting itself off. Other times it will turn off after 10 mins, or maybe 30min, or you might get lucky and it will stay on for 2 to 3 hours. The set looks great when it's on, but you will notice that when the set is about to shut itself off, you will see some ramdom horizontal lines that will flicker through the picture (Much like tape drop-out on a tape machine in my world) and then it shuts off.

I thought this sounded liked a cold solder joint (or bad) solder connection, so I removed the main circuit tray out the back and took it to work and re-touched all the joints that I thought looked suspect. I put the tray bad it and hooked it up and it still has a mind of it's own. I did make sure that I Resolder the convergence IC's pins (IC-801 and IC-802) but it did not change the problem.

I don't think it's a heat related problem cause sometimes it goes for a long period of time, but a other times it only takes 5 or 10 mins. I could get out my sleeping bag and have my heatgun, and my can of freeze-it ready to go, but feel it's not a temp problem.

 I guess my question is could it be the convergence IC's? I have to beleive that if it runs and is looking great until shutdown that where ever I put my O-Scope or Multi-Meter to check voltages or signals it would be normal until it decides to die again. So what does the Master of "Mitsubishi-Land" see in his "Crystal Ball"?

Thanks for your time and bless ya' for your kind help and efforts. (I think there is something that Larry's getting in his stocking this year! :) Maybe a new Tektronics DPO-400 O-Scope...lol

Thanks Again!

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
When the set shuts off, does

When the set shuts off, does the green led light blink all the time? or when it does shut off press the menu and the input buttons together and the led will flash as two digit code, let me know what that is. It is a self diagnostic code for these type of problems. Good Luck!

bemelkun
bemelkun's picture
Hoping for a free hand as I'm

Hoping for a free hand as I'm broke and cheap!

My WS-65807 just started having a blurred condition on the upper left hand and lower right hand portion of the screen. It seems to meet OK in the middle. This seemed to happen shortly after a lightening storm.

Do I have to go into debt for a new TV?

I'm semi-handy so I can do some things electronic. However, I am ex- USAF and when I worked on aircraft there were still many tubes!

Any help is appreciated.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Sorry i never worked on this

Sorry i never worked on this model number .

Sean_Fahey
Sean_Fahey's picture
Larry,

Larry,

OK, I tried to get into the error code mode but the only prblem I have is that I don't see a input button on the Mitsubishi remote. I have (of course) the menu button, but I don't see a Input button. Am I just being stupid? He did not see any green blinking lights when it went off.

What do you think? Does this model have a Dianogstic mode?

Thanks again,
Sean

Retired-Fun
Retired-Fun's picture
Thanks for your forum. I

Thanks for your forum. I found it doing research on HDTVÂ’s. After reading about these units, I recently acquired a free Mitsubishi model WS-55311. The owner said the red started to go out and now it won't turn on. I have a tech background (see profile) and found the STK392-110s and am ready to replace them with -120s. (From the vendor you referred) How can I tell where and if the "pico" fuses need replacing, or should I just replace them anyway? I have a service manual and can read the schematics but can't see how to tell what a pico fuse is.

Retired-Fun

jd5449
jd5449's picture
Retired-Fun said: Thanks for

Retired-Fun said: Thanks for your forum. I found it doing research on HDTV's. After reading about these units, I recently acquired a free Mitsubishi model WS-55311. The owner said the red started to go out and now it won't turn on. I have a tech background (see profile) and found the STK392-110s and am ready to replace them with -120s. (From the vendor you referred) How can I tell where and if the "pico" fuses need replacing, or should I just replace them anyway? I have a service manual and can read the schematics but can't see how to tell what a pico fuse is. Retired-Fun

if you open the back of the tv it will  have a diagram of what fuses are in it most likely  it will be the 5a and the 10a but just use your meter to ck for a open 

jd5449
jd5449's picture
Sean_Fahey said: Larry, OK, I

Sean_Fahey said: Larry, OK, I tried to get into the error code mode but the only prblem I have is that I don't see a input button on the Mitsubishi remote. I have (of course) the menu button, but I don't see a Input button. Am I just being stupid? He did not see any green blinking lights when it went off. What do you think? Does this model have a Dianogstic mode? Thanks agai

    you will have to use the buttons on the tv  not the remote

Retired-Fun
Retired-Fun's picture
jd5449 said:

jd5449 said:

Retired-Fun said: Thanks for your forum. I found it doing research on HDTV's. After reading about these units, I recently acquired a free Mitsubishi model WS-55311. The owner said the red started to go out and now it won't turn on. I have a tech background (see profile) and found the STK392-110s and am ready to replace them with -120s. (From the vendor you referred) How can I tell where and if the "pico" fuses need replacing, or should I just replace them anyway? I have a service manual and can read the schematics but can't see how to tell what a pico fuse is. Retired-Fun

if you open the back of the tv it will  have a diagram of what fuses are in it most likely  it will be the 5a and the 10a but just use your meter to ck for a open 

Thanks, good info. I looked again and found a sticker on the panel with inputs showing the fuse locations. I will check them out.

Pinoy512
Pinoy512's picture
Hello Larry,

Hello Larry,

Thank God for the internet, and you.

I read a lot of the comments about Mitsu TV's and I'm in the same predicament. I have a WT a42 that was bought 12/03. It will turn on only for a second. It is error code 22.

I would like to know if this is an easy fix. I have a background in electronics but has not work in the field for 10 years. I can still solder but my schematic and board reading is very shaky. My troubleshooting skills are limited at best, but if it's a power supply problem, I'm confident enough to fix it.

What are the chances this may be something else and, will I make it worse by opening it and trouble shooting it myself?

Thanks for the board, all the inputs and those who use the net for its well intended purpose. And you too.

Pinoy512

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
a 22 code is a short protect

a 22 code is a short protect code. That means something in one of the circuits is shorted and the power supply will shut down when it detect a short on a suppl. Th most common problem for this is the convergence IC's. They re mounted on the large heat sink on the other side of it, you cannot see them from the rear o the set, you have to disconnect a lot of plugs and stuff and slide out the chassis to see them, then you have to flip over the board to unsolder them from the printed circuit board. Good Luck

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
jd, it is not on the remote

jd, it is not on the remote but on the TV set.

Retired-Fun
Retired-Fun's picture
Larry

Larry
for my WS-55311. Doesn't turn on at all (red was going out before it quit). I have checked the main fuse and the pico fuses all are good (0 or less than 1 ohm). No 24 volt (reads millivolts) no 110 volts, 9 volt is present. Does this still look like a convergence chip problem?
(regular supplier is out of stock for STK392-120s, any suggestions for another supplier?)

thanks,
Retired-fun

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
what do you mean the red

what do you mean the red convergence? If you have no 24 volts then the F9A05 or F9A04 is bad.

Retired-Fun
Retired-Fun's picture
Larry,

Larry,
I just remeasured F9A05 and F9A04 (they are near a transformer). They came out at 0.2 ohms each, regardless of which direction I used the meter leads. I also checked for voltage at each end of these fuses and only found millivolts. I do have 120 coming in at the main power connector.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
See if you have the 110 volts

See if you have the 110 volts, 208 volts.the 17 volts, if you do not then the Q9A50 as well as the IC9A50 should be replaced. ths are DC VOLTAGEs.

Retired-Fun
Retired-Fun's picture
Larry,

Larry,
Here's another view. I put a scope on all the pins of Q9A50 as well as pins 7-12 on PC9A50 and I get a kind of square wave of about 160V P-P with an unchanging frequency.

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