Hi Larry - I have a WS55613 with possibly the same problem. The green light blinks for about a minute only after unplugging/plugging it in, then of course, nothing, dead. Could you please send the DM repair info to [email protected]. I can't do the soldering but I can hopefully remove it to take somewhere. Thanks.
Gidgy. sent you the info you requested. Hope this all works out for you. if you have a differt type of set up with the DM board, please let me know, as there are a few different set ups and different fixes. Good Luck
Hi Larry, was able to remove DM board per the instructions you forwarded, thanks, ALOT!, a few things were a little different than the pics but so far so good. Any chance I could get a copy of the service manual for the WS-55613? I liked your advice about doing a little cleaning while I'm inside already. ([email protected])
Also, ended up ordering the caps from mouser since digikey's were back ordered til Oct. but all specs except est. lifespan seemed to be the same. Will post again post-repair. Thanks again.
Please help. I am having the blinking light of death and I am going nuts! I was wondering if you could send me the notes or whatever it is to get me through this. I have 17 month old twins and for the last week there has been no side entertainment, even to run a load of laundry!!! I am going nuts. Whatever you can do to help would be appreciated!
Are you sure this is something you can do? This will involve, dis assembly of your TV set. Then unsoldering 4 capacitors from the printed circuit board. And then reinstalling the new capacitors into the printed circuit board. This is not a fix for the novice I'm afraid. Good Luck
I got the instructions & manual thank you for that first off.
But, I have the WS-65513 & i used the low esr caps from mouser, they were a bit bigger but fit ok. The tv still has the same problem with the light. Has anybody else tried the low esr caps yet. Should i try the panasonic caps from digikey or have the low esr caps worked for someone else out there. If so what could still be the problem.
I have a WS-65613 with the blinking light issues. After careful review of the articles here, it seems like the capacitors are my problem as well. I have had intermittent power-off since I bought the set approximately two years ago and after moving the unit from my basement about eight months ago, it took about one hour for the TV to power on (had to separate the cabinet for the move), which I thought rather odd. Since then, the set has worked great (less the power-downs) until yesterday.In line with several postings, it worked fine one night and then the next morning--constant blinking light. I performed the usual resets, different power sources, bypassing the surge protector, etc., and nothing worked.
I have a background in electronics and have no problem making the repair myself (I worked in a TV shop with my father most of my youth and am quite good with a soldering iron). I have your comprehensive breakdown already, but could really use any other info you may provide along with the pictures (I know they are different from my set, but should still provide a good reference).
I will let you know if it worked.If you would, please send to both emails:
Well, I've had a moderate success fixing my 65813. Replaced the caps (all four were slightly swollen) and now the TV will boot up just fine. The only problem I have now is that if the TV has been left off for more than a couple of minutes, it has to do the minute of blinking before it turns on. It will turn on and it's not a huge deal to wait a minute for it to happen, but I'm worried it's a sign of something else.
Any ideas? I did buy the service manual and can make it available to anyone who needs it.
Sounds like bad capacitors. Again. Did you use the better caps? Did you increase the voltage a little on them. Did you use new caps and the right value?
Larry Dillon said: I am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set. For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, low wattage soldering iron, a desoldering tool, and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Replace the bad capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour high temp capacitors (part number: P13119-ND ) and they can be purchased from http://www.digikey.com. I also use the Radio Shack desoldering tool cat# 64-2060. It's only $10 and will make quick work of removing the old capacitors without damaging the board. Procedure This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience. Start by unplugging the TV and remove the rear panel. If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement. Unplug the coax and digital audio cable (if present) from the DM rear panel and remove the plastic panel's mounting screws and panel. Pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This step is necessary to access one of the DM shield mounting screws. See picture below. The DM and the shield are removed vertically so in order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier. Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM. Unplug the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board and unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield. Remove the board slide. It is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed. Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below. Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above. Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on the following screws as it is very easy to strip the threads. Remove the screws holding the DM shield. There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield (see photo above). The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight. Handle the DM by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board. Here is what a typical capacitor failure may look like: The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed. After removal, these four capacitors measured 209uF, 203uF, 29uF and 7uF! Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation: Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If you are going to install a cooling fan do so now. Stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge. Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. Pictured above is an 80mm 12v 340mA PC fan which is powered by an external 12v supply. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first as not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v. Installation Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable). Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable. Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD. Have fun, and be careful!
Hi Larry,
I just found you on the net after my tv kept blinking and I think you have the answer to my problem. Could you please email me the complete instructions for removing the DM and replacing the capacitors, with pictures for us more um technically challenged repairmen. Thanks, kristine
Kristine, I have just sent you the Documents about repairing the Mitsubishi TV set you have. This has helped to repair 65 to 70% of the sets out there. If this does not help, you have a bad DM board or there is a power supply issue. Good Luck
fnj said: Hi Larry, Unfortunately, your email with the information didn't make it through to me. Would you mind resending it? My email address is [email protected] Many thanks, Fred
Larry, I just had the blinking light problem start for me this morning. I've had my TV since 2004 and apparently didnt get a warranty because the guy I bought it from said these TVs dont break anyways and by the time it does you'll be ready for another one. LOL He's partly right. I am ready for another one. Its amazing how many people are having the same problem. Can you send me the instructions for this fix also? I might just fix it and sell it off! My email is [email protected]. Thanks!
Quamosa, I have sent the documents you requested for the repair of your TV set. It does help about 65 to 70% of those who attempt this repair. Good Luck
Great. Thanks. So far I have the DM module out of the TV. Next I need to order the caps. Too bad its a holiday weekend. Thanks alot for the instructions. I'll let you know how it goes.
Don't know if this helps, but the WS-65813 has a power option that allows the user to toggle between instant "on," that uses more power, and an energy saving mode that only uses about two watts. According to the literature, in the economy mode, the unit takes a little more than about one minute to power up...maybe that's your problem as well. Here is an excerpt for the manual:
Energy Mode (pp. 57 in the manual)
This feature allows you to save electrical energy when the TV is off and in the standby mode. Standard mode uses more power but allows all of the background features to continue to operate. Low mode saves power (using less than 2 watts), however, using this selection will restrict or turn off many of the background features.If the Energy Mode is set to Low the following features of the TV will be restricted or unavailable when the TV is turned off (Note: The features will operate normally when the TV is powered On): • TV controlled recordings, including “Record Later “recordings will not be possible. • TV Time (clock) will be lost after approximately 48 hours. The clock will need to be reset through the Time menu. • The Timer function cannot be used to turn on the TV. • IEEE 1394 functions that pass through the TV or IEEE 1394 recordings from the TV or Ant-DTV will not be possible. • The amount of time required to turn on the TV will increase to more than one minute.
I forgot all about this Jim! Three cheers to you! Thanks for the contribution. Great job. Hope you contribute more like this to the techlore community!
Even though I discovered that I had a valid extended warranty after submitting my request for information, I thought it necessary to follow up as I had promised, though from a different angle.Thanks to your forum, I now know that the my WS-65613 has a defect that will most likely resurface in the near future and the literature you provided now has me well armed for that fateful day.I was most pleased that even though you make available a method for people to download their respective service manuals for a slight fee, you still sent mine without any idea if you would get reimbursed or not—thank you!
My appeal is for all of those people that use your resources; they should provide something in return for your services.As I mentioned in the forum concerning my TV woes, I hail from an electronics service background and often watched my father perform on the spot diagnostics, from simple to moderately complex, and even occasionally make the repairs for the owners--free of charge.Though they may or may not have become a repeat customer, time is money and he would sometimes spend thirty to forty-five minutes on their particular issue, pulling him away from repairs that actually fed the family.
Please people, do the right thing even if it’s just a small token of gratitude!
Thanks Jim for those kind words. I do get thanked by some, and some do not. I am not sure if it is because the fix does not work, or if those who do not reply with an answer just forget who helped them or think it is owed or something. If I have a service manual, I do share to those who ask, if they do not demand it, and I have had a few who seems like they do. If I do not have the service manual, I will direct them towards another site so they can get one for a fee from that site, not by me.. A service manual is always good to have for your TV set even if you do not under stand circuit flow. You may need to one day see how a set comes apart so that it may be cleaned, or maybe your local repair person does not have a service manual if your set needs service. Well thanks again and hope all goes well with your repair.
Larry, the fix worked for me! I broke down and went to Radio shack Saturday afternoon and bought the 35V caps. Took me about an hour to replace the four as I practiced first on an old defective motherboard which I noticed had bulged caps also. So far so good, no more blinking lights. Thanks for sending me the info!
Great to hear that! The Capacitors will work, but they may break down in a few years, if the set last that long. I have seen these Mitsubishi TV sets last an easy 12 to 15 years .
twalker294 said: Well, add another to the list of TVs that were fixed by replacing caps on the DM board. Luckily the repair guy that I had come to the house already knew about the fix. He saw the blinking light and said "Your DM board isn't booting properly. Probably needs the capacitors replaced." He cleaned the lenses while he was in there and charged me $265 for the job, which seems very fair considering I didn't even have to touch the TV at all. Thanks much guys! Todd
Hi,
I have also joined your club this weekend. I have read the postings here & decided there is NO way I can accomplish this one my own. I'm wondering if you happen to be in the Phoenix area? And if so, are you willing to share this repair guys phone number?
First off, a very BIG thank you to Larry Dillon and all his support with this issue. I have successfully fixed my 65813 and owe it all to him. So thanks! I had built a custom entertainment center AROUND this exact television, so if I would have needed to replace it, the cost would have be huge to me.
I had followed up with the issue of the very long wait time on turning on the set. So the next set of praise goes to Jim Hamm for pointing out the power setting on the TV. I had pretty much given up as was depressed that I only had a "half fix". D'oh! It was just the Energy Saving mode that somehow got turned on during the fix. So thank you Jim.
Along the way I also decided to fix the contantly breaking power button on the front of the set. Now I don't have to worry about that breaking once a week. (That is a poor design!)
So, I am now 100% fixed and better than new.. so thank you. I also purchased the 65813 service manual, so if anyone needs to take a look at it, please let me know.
I have the mitsubishi ws-55813 (which i had bought for ~$3500) for 3-4 years now and i'm having exactly the same problem. Non stop green light blinking. What pissed me off is that this TV was barely used and now its broken. I see that Larry Dillon is the one who knows how to fix this problem. This is my first time ever posting a comment and i'm not sure if he'll even sees this comment. PLEASE SEND ME INFO ON HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!!!!!!!! I see that you are sending people email on how to fix the problem, and most have been successful......whatever you send them please send it to me as well!!!!THANK YOU!!!!
Hi Larry - I have a WS55613 with possibly the same problem. The green light blinks for about a minute only after unplugging/plugging it in, then of course, nothing, dead. Could you please send the DM repair info to [email protected]. I can't do the soldering but I can hopefully remove it to take somewhere. Thanks.
Gidgy. sent you the info you requested. Hope this all works out for you. if you have a differt type of set up with the DM board, please let me know, as there are a few different set ups and different fixes. Good Luck
Hi Larry, was able to remove DM board per the instructions you forwarded, thanks, ALOT!, a few things were a little different than the pics but so far so good. Any chance I could get a copy of the service manual for the WS-55613? I liked your advice about doing a little cleaning while I'm inside already. ([email protected])
Also, ended up ordering the caps from mouser since digikey's were back ordered til Oct. but all specs except est. lifespan seemed to be the same. Will post again post-repair. Thanks again.
elec
Larry!!!!
Please help. I am having the blinking light of death and I am going nuts! I was wondering if you could send me the notes or whatever it is to get me through this. I have 17 month old twins and for the last week there has been no side entertainment, even to run a load of laundry!!! I am going nuts. Whatever you can do to help would be appreciated!
Please email to [email protected]
Thanks,
Nicole
Are you sure this is something you can do? This will involve, dis assembly of your TV set. Then unsoldering 4 capacitors from the printed circuit board. And then reinstalling the new capacitors into the printed circuit board. This is not a fix for the novice I'm afraid. Good Luck
I got the instructions & manual thank you for that first off.
But, I have the WS-65513 & i used the low esr caps from mouser, they were a bit bigger but fit ok. The tv still has the same problem with the light. Has anybody else tried the low esr caps yet. Should i try the panasonic caps from digikey or have the low esr caps worked for someone else out there. If so what could still be the problem.
Larry (great site),
I have a WS-65613 with the blinking light issues. After careful review of the articles here, it seems like the capacitors are my problem as well. I have had intermittent power-off since I bought the set approximately two years ago and after moving the unit from my basement about eight months ago, it took about one hour for the TV to power on (had to separate the cabinet for the move), which I thought rather odd. Since then, the set has worked great (less the power-downs) until yesterday. In line with several postings, it worked fine one night and then the next morning--constant blinking light. I performed the usual resets, different power sources, bypassing the surge protector, etc., and nothing worked.
I have a background in electronics and have no problem making the repair myself (I worked in a TV shop with my father most of my youth and am quite good with a soldering iron). I have your comprehensive breakdown already, but could really use any other info you may provide along with the pictures (I know they are different from my set, but should still provide a good reference).
I will let you know if it worked. If you would, please send to both emails:
[email protected]
[email protected]
Thanks a million (or at least $1,100),
Jim
Killacane,
I used the Mouser low ESR replacement caps on my 55813 and it fixed the problem.
Jim, I have sent you all the information you will need to trouble shoot and repair your TV set. Good Luck
Jim, I have sent you all the information you will need to trouble shoot and repair your TV set. Good Luck
Well, I've had a moderate success fixing my 65813. Replaced the caps (all four were slightly swollen) and now the TV will boot up just fine. The only problem I have now is that if the TV has been left off for more than a couple of minutes, it has to do the minute of blinking before it turns on. It will turn on and it's not a huge deal to wait a minute for it to happen, but I'm worried it's a sign of something else.
Any ideas? I did buy the service manual and can make it available to anyone who needs it.
Thanks for all the help so far!
Sounds like bad capacitors. Again. Did you use the better caps? Did you increase the voltage a little on them. Did you use new caps and the right value?
Used these from Mouser: Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 16V 1000uF 105C
Yea right caps. Double check the feed voltage going into the DM board from the main power supply.
Hi Larry,
I just found you on the net after my tv kept blinking and I think you have the answer to my problem. Could you please email me the complete instructions for removing the DM and replacing the capacitors, with pictures for us more um technically challenged repairmen. Thanks, kristine
email for kristine is [email protected] .
Sorry, i thought it would be on my profiole for you.
thanks.
Hi Larry,
Unfortunately, your email with the information didn't make it through to me. Would you mind resending it? My email address is [email protected]
Many thanks,
Fred
Kristine, I have just sent you the Documents about repairing the Mitsubishi TV set you have. This has helped to repair 65 to 70% of the sets out there. If this does not help, you have a bad DM board or there is a power supply issue. Good Luck
Larry, I just had the blinking light problem start for me this morning. I've had my TV since 2004 and apparently didnt get a warranty because the guy I bought it from said these TVs dont break anyways and by the time it does you'll be ready for another one. LOL He's partly right. I am ready for another one. Its amazing how many people are having the same problem. Can you send me the instructions for this fix also? I might just fix it and sell it off! My email is [email protected]. Thanks!
Quamosa, I have sent the documents you requested for the repair of your TV set. It does help about 65 to 70% of those who attempt this repair. Good Luck
Great. Thanks. So far I have the DM module out of the TV. Next I need to order the caps. Too bad its a holiday weekend. Thanks alot for the instructions. I'll let you know how it goes.
Slacker---65813,
Don't know if this helps, but the WS-65813 has a power option that allows the user to toggle between instant "on," that uses more power, and an energy saving mode that only uses about two watts. According to the literature, in the economy mode, the unit takes a little more than about one minute to power up...maybe that's your problem as well. Here is an excerpt for the manual:
Energy Mode (pp. 57 in the manual)
This feature allows you to save electrical energy when the TV is off and in the standby mode. Standard mode uses more power but allows all of the background features to continue to operate. Low mode saves power (using less than 2 watts), however, using this selection will restrict or turn off many of the background features.If the Energy Mode is set to Low the following features of the TV will be restricted or unavailable when the TV is turned off (Note: The features will operate normally when the TV is powered On):
• TV controlled recordings, including “Record Later “recordings will not be possible.
• TV Time (clock) will be lost after approximately 48 hours. The clock will need to be reset through the Time menu.
• The Timer function cannot be used to turn on the TV.
• IEEE 1394 functions that pass through the TV or IEEE 1394 recordings from the TV or Ant-DTV will not be possible.
• The amount of time required to turn on the TV will increase to more than one minute.
Hope this helps.
Jim
I forgot all about this Jim! Three cheers to you! Thanks for the contribution. Great job. Hope you contribute more like this to the techlore community!
Larry,
Got the info and thanks!
Even though I discovered that I had a valid extended warranty after submitting my request for information, I thought it necessary to follow up as I had promised, though from a different angle. Thanks to your forum, I now know that the my WS-65613 has a defect that will most likely resurface in the near future and the literature you provided now has me well armed for that fateful day. I was most pleased that even though you make available a method for people to download their respective service manuals for a slight fee, you still sent mine without any idea if you would get reimbursed or not—thank you!
My appeal is for all of those people that use your resources; they should provide something in return for your services. As I mentioned in the forum concerning my TV woes, I hail from an electronics service background and often watched my father perform on the spot diagnostics, from simple to moderately complex, and even occasionally make the repairs for the owners--free of charge. Though they may or may not have become a repeat customer, time is money and he would sometimes spend thirty to forty-five minutes on their particular issue, pulling him away from repairs that actually fed the family.
Please people, do the right thing even if it’s just a small token of gratitude!
Jim
Thanks Jim for those kind words. I do get thanked by some, and some do not. I am not sure if it is because the fix does not work, or if those who do not reply with an answer just forget who helped them or think it is owed or something. If I have a service manual, I do share to those who ask, if they do not demand it, and I have had a few who seems like they do. If I do not have the service manual, I will direct them towards another site so they can get one for a fee from that site, not by me.. A service manual is always good to have for your TV set even if you do not under stand circuit flow. You may need to one day see how a set comes apart so that it may be cleaned, or maybe your local repair person does not have a service manual if your set needs service. Well thanks again and hope all goes well with your repair.
Larry, the fix worked for me! I broke down and went to Radio shack Saturday afternoon and bought the 35V caps. Took me about an hour to replace the four as I practiced first on an old defective motherboard which I noticed had bulged caps also. So far so good, no more blinking lights. Thanks for sending me the info!
Great to hear that! The Capacitors will work, but they may break down in a few years, if the set last that long. I have seen these Mitsubishi TV sets last an easy 12 to 15 years .
Hi,
I have also joined your club this weekend. I have read the postings here & decided there is NO way I can accomplish this one my own. I'm wondering if you happen to be in the Phoenix area? And if so, are you willing to share this repair guys phone number?
Thanks
First off, a very BIG thank you to Larry Dillon and all his support with this issue. I have successfully fixed my 65813 and owe it all to him. So thanks! I had built a custom entertainment center AROUND this exact television, so if I would have needed to replace it, the cost would have be huge to me.
I had followed up with the issue of the very long wait time on turning on the set. So the next set of praise goes to Jim Hamm for pointing out the power setting on the TV. I had pretty much given up as was depressed that I only had a "half fix". D'oh! It was just the Energy Saving mode that somehow got turned on during the fix. So thank you Jim.
Along the way I also decided to fix the contantly breaking power button on the front of the set. Now I don't have to worry about that breaking once a week. (That is a poor design!)
So, I am now 100% fixed and better than new.. so thank you. I also purchased the 65813 service manual, so if anyone needs to take a look at it, please let me know.
Thanks again!
I have the mitsubishi ws-55813 (which i had bought for ~$3500) for 3-4 years now and i'm having exactly the same problem. Non stop green light blinking. What pissed me off is that this TV was barely used and now its broken. I see that Larry Dillon is the one who knows how to fix this problem. This is my first time ever posting a comment and i'm not sure if he'll even sees this comment. PLEASE SEND ME INFO ON HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!!!!!!!! I see that you are sending people email on how to fix the problem, and most have been successful......whatever you send them please send it to me as well!!!!THANK YOU!!!!
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