Larry, I too just joined the blinking green light club today and hope I can get the problem resolved with your info on the DM repair. Kindly send the docs to [email protected]. Thanks, Tim
Larry Dillon said: I am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set. For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, low wattage soldering iron, a desoldering tool, and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Replace the bad capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour high temp capacitors (part number: P13119-ND ) and they can be purchased from http://www.digikey.com. I also use the Radio Shack desoldering tool cat# 64-2060. It's only $10 and will make quick work of removing the old capacitors without damaging the board. Procedure This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience. Start by unplugging the TV and remove the rear panel. If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement. Unplug the coax and digital audio cable (if present) from the DM rear panel and remove the plastic panel's mounting screws and panel. Pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This step is necessary to access one of the DM shield mounting screws. See picture below. The DM and the shield are removed vertically so in order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier. Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM. Unplug the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board and unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield. Remove the board slide. It is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed. Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below. Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above. Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on the following screws as it is very easy to strip the threads. Remove the screws holding the DM shield. There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield (see photo above). The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight. Handle the DM by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board. Here is what a typical capacitor failure may look like: The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed. After removal, these four capacitors measured 209uF, 203uF, 29uF and 7uF! Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation: Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If you are going to install a cooling fan do so now. Stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge. Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. Pictured above is an 80mm 12v 340mA PC fan which is powered by an external 12v supply. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first as not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v. Installation Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable). Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable. Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD. Have fun, and be careful!
Does this also work with the WS-55511 model because I am having the same problem. Please email me the procedure with pics at [email protected]. Thanks a lot.
Larry, thanks so much for the info. Tech said he thinks its a p2 module?! Anyway at least its not the blinking green light again. Again, you are wonderful. I will keep you updated on what happens.
Well, add another to the list of TVs that were fixed by replacing caps on the DM board. Luckily the repair guy that I had come to the house already knew about the fix. He saw the blinking light and said "Your DM board isn't booting properly. Probably needs the capacitors replaced." He cleaned the lenses while he was in there and charged me $265 for the job, which seems very fair considering I didn't even have to touch the TV at all. Thanks much guys!
dinobyte76, I sent out the documents you requested. I also sent to you the factory service manual so you can take apart the screen and the front of this TV set to clean the optics. Good Luck
New member to techlore & green blinking light of death club. I have some electrical experience. So am willing to try switching out those 4 caps myself, but would like to receive the detailed version of the pictures and anything else that might help make this process a little easier. Thanx for your time.
You previously sent me the write-up (with pix) for the Mits power-up problem, and I have the 140 ESRL16V1000-RC caps on order from Mouser; could you also forward me the service manual for the WS-55813 if you have it?
I have the WS65813 with that wonderful blinking issue . I would greatly appreciate a copy of your repair for it . My address is [email protected] . I thank you in advance .
Hi Larry - I have a WS55613 with possibly the same problem. The green light blinks for about a minute only after unplugging/plugging it in, then of course, nothing, dead. Could you please send the DM repair info to [email protected]. I can't do the soldering but I can hopefully remove it to take somewhere. Thanks.
I'm not sure if I am having the same problem. I turn the set on and get the blinking lights. I crack out my hand dapaper clip and do a reset, wait 2 minutes and the light stops blinking. I then turn it on and it works normally. I have to do this every time I want to use the tv. If this sounds like the same thing, would you mind sending me your guide. Many thanks! Fred
I just joined the group and have the WS-55613 blinking light problem. I would like to replace my caps and ask if Larry or someone who has it can please se-mail me the service manual, schematics, and the article to repair the DM board with the pictures I would really appreciate it. The info I have read so far is great and definitely saves the community a bunch of money to do home repairs.
fnj, I have also sent you out the repair documents to hopefully repair your TV set. If you or anyone who received this repair and you do not know how to solder or work on printed circuit board, and indeed the capacitors are swollen and look like the photos, please have a pro assist you in this. Good Luck
Has anyone tried the Low ESR capacitors from Mouser? Just looking at the spec sheet and they seem to be a larger diameter than the normal ones. Anyone install these yet and was there enough clearance?
No!!! These capacitors WILL NOT work! There is a limited amount of space in the DM assembly for these capacitors. Don't even try. Be patient and wait for the proper caps. If you do try, you will fail at this repair, as a few already have with regrets., What happens is, as you are forcing the last couple of caps into place, the board rips up the printed circuit trace and then you never know about it. You think there is another problem. I bet about half of those who attempt this repair, and are unsuccessful, think this repair was not the answer. I bet dollars to donuts, most used the wrong size caps and forced them into the PCB.
Before I start buying parts can you help me understand about the cooling fan? Is there a fan in the TV now? Is the fan necessary? Where do you get the 110v to use in the TV for the fan? If you use a power adapter what king and where do you put it inside the TV? Why not use a 110v fan? What switches on the fan when the TV comes on? I see the fan in the picture but do not understand if refers to a fan replacement if the fan is bad or adding one to the TV for extra cooling.
If you re read the article, it explains that this is an add on fan. It is a PC 12 volt fan and uses an external power supply, or you can hook it up to an internal switched supply if you are handy with electronics. i would highly advise against this IF you do not have any or much experience working on solid state electronic circuits.
I received the service manual file you sent me....thank you! I also completed installing the 4 new caps and everything is now working again...another BIG thank you for your write-up with pix. I just noticed that you advised against using the Low ESR caps from mouser, and I can understand why since they are larger in height and diameter than the originals; however, I was very careful (and likely blessed) during the installation of these caps, and everythging seems to be okay. Re-installing the shield with the new caps was also painstaking, but successful. Also, none of the 4 original caps appeared to have any bulges, but I went with my gut and changed them anyway....you can't always judge a book by its cover.
Somewhere in this thread, someone had mentioned that they were getting a continuous (non-requested) format switching problem (1080i widescreen-to-1080i standard). I also was having that problem...just before the green led of death problem struck. Don't know if there is any relationship between the two, but (knock wood) I haven't seen that problem since I replaced the caps.
Thanks again, Larry (and techlore), for all your help.
That's only because I have seen peeps tear the printed circuit cramming them in. I just want folks to use the right size so they won't make the same mistake that others have. I think it is great you saved your self a large chunk of dough! Thanks for letting us know.
Larry Dillon said: No!!! These capacitors WILL NOT work! There is a limited amount of space in the DM assembly for these capacitors. Don't even try. Be patient and wait for the proper caps. If you do try, you will fail at this repair, as a few already have with regrets., What happens is, as you are forcing the last couple of caps into place, the board rips up the printed circuit trace and then you never know about it. You think there is another problem. I bet about half of those who attempt this repair, and are unsuccessful, think this repair was not the answer. I bet dollars to donuts, most used the wrong size caps and forced them into the PCB.
Larry
I quess the esr capacitors from mouser are too big for the 55613 board. It seems that on the 55859 there is more room as there is a separate daughter power board in the dm modual.
Have you ever changed capacitors on the model? I ordered both capacitors in-case the esr is too tight. http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186 has a nice picture tutorial of this board.
Larry, I too just joined the blinking green light club today and hope I can get the problem resolved with your info on the DM repair. Kindly send the docs to [email protected]. Thanks, Tim
Does this also work with the WS-55511 model because I am having the same problem. Please email me the procedure with pics at [email protected]. Thanks a lot.
Troy
Larry, thanks so much for the info. Tech said he thinks its a p2 module?! Anyway at least its not the blinking green light again. Again, you are wonderful. I will keep you updated on what happens.
Well, add another to the list of TVs that were fixed by replacing caps on the DM board. Luckily the repair guy that I had come to the house already knew about the fix. He saw the blinking light and said "Your DM board isn't booting properly. Probably needs the capacitors replaced." He cleaned the lenses while he was in there and charged me $265 for the job, which seems very fair considering I didn't even have to touch the TV at all. Thanks much guys!
Todd
Thats great news and three cheers to the honest repair guy. Glad to hear the set got repaired.
dinobyte76, I sent out the documents you requested. I also sent to you the factory service manual so you can take apart the screen and the front of this TV set to clean the optics. Good Luck
Tim, the documents are also on their way to you. Good Luck
New member to techlore & green blinking light of death club. I have some electrical experience. So am willing to try switching out those 4 caps myself, but would like to receive the detailed version of the pictures and anything else that might help make this process a little easier. Thanx for your time.
email: [email protected]
Larry.... thanks for the info.... I will let you know how it turns out
Troy
killacane, I sent you the info you requested. I also sent you the factory service manual. Good Luck
Larry,
You previously sent me the write-up (with pix) for the Mits power-up problem, and I have the 140 ESRL16V1000-RC caps on order from Mouser; could you also forward me the service manual for the WS-55813 if you have it?
Thanks again
Larry,
Oooops, sorry
[email protected]
Thanks again
Lawrence, I sent you the Factory Service Manual. Good Luck
I have the WS65813 with that wonderful blinking issue . I would greatly appreciate a copy of your repair for it . My address is [email protected] . I thank you in advance .
Hi Larry - I have a WS55613 with possibly the same problem. The green light blinks for about a minute only after unplugging/plugging it in, then of course, nothing, dead. Could you please send the DM repair info to [email protected]. I can't do the soldering but I can hopefully remove it to take somewhere. Thanks.
Hi Larry,
I'm not sure if I am having the same problem. I turn the set on and get the blinking lights. I crack out my hand dapaper clip and do a reset, wait 2 minutes and the light stops blinking. I then turn it on and it works normally. I have to do this every time I want to use the tv. If this sounds like the same thing, would you mind sending me your guide. Many thanks! Fred
[email protected]
Hi Larry,
I just sign up today. Please send me a copy of the repair manual to [email protected]. Thank you very much.
Hi,
Is there anybody active right now? Can you guys forward me the manual instead of waiting for Larry response? I would appreciate a lot.
Hello,
I just joined the group and have the WS-55613 blinking light problem. I would like to replace my caps and ask if Larry or someone who has it can please se-mail me the service manual, schematics, and the article to repair the DM board with the pictures I would really appreciate it. The info I have read so far is great and definitely saves the community a bunch of money to do home repairs.
[email protected]
Thanks, Mike
Mike, I sent you the info. you need to do your repair. Hope this woks out for you. Good Luck
Damask, I sent you what you were asking for. I usually do not do a lot on Sundays except later in the evenings. Hope this works for you. Good Luck
fnj, I have also sent you out the repair documents to hopefully repair your TV set. If you or anyone who received this repair and you do not know how to solder or work on printed circuit board, and indeed the capacitors are swollen and look like the photos, please have a pro assist you in this. Good Luck
Has anyone tried the Low ESR capacitors from Mouser? Just looking at the spec sheet and they seem to be a larger diameter than the normal ones. Anyone install these yet and was there enough clearance?
No!!! These capacitors WILL NOT work! There is a limited amount of space in the DM assembly for these capacitors. Don't even try. Be patient and wait for the proper caps. If you do try, you will fail at this repair, as a few already have with regrets., What happens is, as you are forcing the last couple of caps into place, the board rips up the printed circuit trace and then you never know about it. You think there is another problem. I bet about half of those who attempt this repair, and are unsuccessful, think this repair was not the answer. I bet dollars to donuts, most used the wrong size caps and forced them into the PCB.
Before I start buying parts can you help me understand about the cooling fan? Is there a fan in the TV now? Is the fan necessary? Where do you get the 110v to use in the TV for the fan? If you use a power adapter what king and where do you put it inside the TV? Why not use a 110v fan? What switches on the fan when the TV comes on? I see the fan in the picture but do not understand if refers to a fan replacement if the fan is bad or adding one to the TV for extra cooling.
Thanks, Mike
If you re read the article, it explains that this is an add on fan. It is a PC 12 volt fan and uses an external power supply, or you can hook it up to an internal switched supply if you are handy with electronics. i would highly advise against this IF you do not have any or much experience working on solid state electronic circuits.
Larry,
I received the service manual file you sent me....thank you! I also completed installing the 4 new caps and everything is now working again...another BIG thank you for your write-up with pix. I just noticed that you advised against using the Low ESR caps from mouser, and I can understand why since they are larger in height and diameter than the originals; however, I was very careful (and likely blessed) during the installation of these caps, and everythging seems to be okay. Re-installing the shield with the new caps was also painstaking, but successful. Also, none of the 4 original caps appeared to have any bulges, but I went with my gut and changed them anyway....you can't always judge a book by its cover.
Somewhere in this thread, someone had mentioned that they were getting a continuous (non-requested) format switching problem (1080i widescreen-to-1080i standard). I also was having that problem...just before the green led of death problem struck. Don't know if there is any relationship between the two, but (knock wood) I haven't seen that problem since I replaced the caps.
Thanks again, Larry (and techlore), for all your help.
That's only because I have seen peeps tear the printed circuit cramming them in. I just want folks to use the right size so they won't make the same mistake that others have. I think it is great you saved your self a large chunk of dough! Thanks for letting us know.
Larry
I quess the esr capacitors from mouser are too big for the 55613 board. It seems that on the 55859 there is more room as there is a separate daughter power board in the dm modual.
Have you ever changed capacitors on the model? I ordered both capacitors in-case the esr is too tight. http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186 has a nice picture tutorial of this board.
Gary
No I have not. That is very nice and I will be making a power point or something like that in the near future. Great research!
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