I do not have that exact service manual as of yet but I will be getting it in a few days or so at the most. If you like you could wait for me to share it with you so you can seee how to disassemble the screen part of your TV set for free or you can download a copy for a small fee from servicemanual.net
If you plan to NEVER ever have any greasy hands from kids or young children over your home to touch the main screen, sure leave it off, but if you do, It will certainly save you a lot of dough when the screen gets dirty from little hand prints and who knows what else? LOL. No seriously, the protection screen is a nice thing to have if you have children around as screens get costly after you have to replace the second or the third one.
Nope, no kids, no greasy hands. Just me and my wife and no one really comes over. I try and keep my stuff in MINT condition. We do however get lots of dust. Does removing the screen really produce that much of a better picture?
BO said: Larry, Thanks for the files. I got the caps replaced and put the DM back on but it didnt fix it. I still have the blinking light. However, now i have clicking sound that is coming from the middle of the middle board. click, click, click and it is almost simultaneous with the blinking light. I also didnt see no grounding cable. can it be because grounding cable is not connected ? I also found out that on the DM board on the right very bottom corner there are two black little square tab looking things. I dont know what they are but one of them is kind a loose almost broken. do you know what that is ? would that also cause the blinking ? I am about to cry...
BO,
I just registered on this site, so not sure if I'm doing this right.
I changed out my caps and the blinking light continued and I heard the same clicking sound you did. I felt kind of suspect on how the DM module plugged in, because I had it secured in the protective housing when I pushed it back down in place. So I removed the protective housing and just plugged the DM module board in as a check. This resulted in no clicking, the light blinked for a minute and went out. Turned the power on and I had a tv again. So I unhooked it all again and left the protective cover loosely on while I made sure the DM module was securely pushed in. Then I moved the cover down and secured in place. Of course during each step above, I had to slide the chassis in and out and connect and disconnect the various connectors to allow it to move. I think I only had to connect/disconnect 5 white plug in connectors in addition to of course the two on top of the DM module for USB.
I really want to thank the support on this topic. I bought an on-line technical manual for my WS 55613 Mitsubishi and 4, 35V 1000uF capacitors. Cost me about $13 to repair because my wife's brother-in-law, experienced in circuit boards, did the soldering. Very satisfying to have the tv working again and could never have been done without the wonderful information I found on the internet.
Larry Dillon said: dezmond, I sent the information you reqeusted. Hope this helps you. Let us know how you make out with this repair.
Larry, Many thanks to you for sending me the repair info. I was too desperate to wait and used the info compiled here in this forum. Having spent enough time on my own repairing high tech equipment in the field, I felt confident I could locate the DM board without problems. I opened up the back of the TV and found it all the way to the left, in the vertical position in the shielded metal casing, clearly marked DM circuitry. I managed to score at the first Radio Shack on some caps. It was about 4 hrs of work, and approx. $1000 dollars cheaper. Best thing is I felt the satisfaction of bringing my set back from the dead! Couldn't have done it without all the great info in this forum! Mahalo!
Larry Dillon said: Yes it does. If you want the detailed version with pictures and things, leave your e-mail and I would be more then happy to send it to you. Good Luck with this repair and let us know how you make out with this TV set.
am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. i have the ws-48511 my email is [email protected]
have a similar issue with my paperweight WS-48511 could you please give me the address of the site that helped you with pulling out the DM. Thanks for the help MY EMAIL [email protected]
screen said: have a similar issue with my paperweight WS-48511 could you please give me the address of the site that helped you with pulling out the DM. Thanks for the help MY EMAIL [email protected]
please can someone send me the detail with pictures to pull out he dm adress on where to find it...
Larry Dillon said: I am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set. For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, low wattage soldering iron, a desoldering tool, and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Replace the bad capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour high temp capacitors (part number: P13119-ND ) and they can be purchased from http://www.digikey.com. I also use the Radio Shack desoldering tool cat# 64-2060. It's only $10 and will make quick work of removing the old capacitors without damaging the board. Procedure This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience. Start by unplugging the TV and remove the rear panel. If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement. Unplug the coax and digital audio cable (if present) from the DM rear panel and remove the plastic panel's mounting screws and panel. Pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This step is necessary to access one of the DM shield mounting screws. See picture below. The DM and the shield are removed vertically so in order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier. Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM. Unplug the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board and unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield. Remove the board slide. It is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed. Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below. Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above. Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on the following screws as it is very easy to strip the threads. Remove the screws holding the DM shield. There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield (see photo above). The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight. Handle the DM by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board. Here is what a typical capacitor failure may look like: The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed. After removal, these four capacitors measured 209uF, 203uF, 29uF and 7uF! Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation: Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If you are going to install a cooling fan do so now. Stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge. Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. Pictured above is an 80mm 12v 340mA PC fan which is powered by an external 12v supply. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first as not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v. Installation Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable). Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable. Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD. Have fun, and be careful!
Screen, please simply ask once for what you need, I deleted the two other posts that have nothing but the paste from the other thread. I will send the details to you. Butplease report back on your findings with the repairs on your Mitsubishi TV set. Good Luck
Success!!! First of all I want to give a BIG THANK YOU to Larry and this Forum. I replaced the 4 caps with 1000uF 35v caps. A total of $16 was spent which included the desoldering iron from Radio Shack. The whole project took about 1hr 45min too complete and that even included vaccuming out all of the 4 years of dust that had accumulated. Thanks Again Larry.
Well tonight I found this website - as we just had a wierd power spike (first time). And I have the famous flashing light.s
Can anyone send me the manaul for the WS-55813 to [email protected] - It seems that that will be my first steps to saving a lot of money. thank you in advance.
Sure, I would be happy to share with you. I will also send you the famous DM board fix to you. I doubt though thats your problem, heck you never know. You will however need to go to pando.com and download the free software so you can look at this manual. good Luck, and please let us know what you find with this repair.
I too have a problem with my Mitsubishi flashing green light, can someone please send me the address of the site which helps with pulling out the DM. Please e-mail to [email protected]
Larry, I like apparently many others have the same problem with a mits. 4 year old projection tv. The flashing light and the failure to power up suggests to me the dm board has the same problem as the many others. Would you be so kind and e-mail to me the article and photos for the removal and repair of the board. Thanks T.Kirk [email protected]
Larry, like T.kirk and many others i have a ws-65713 that is about 4 1/2 years old and having problems. The tv reset itself last night and now will not power on. After reading this thread i am inclined to think that it also has a dm board problem. Can you please send me the information and pictures for the removal and repair of the board. Thank you very much. [email protected]
Mae said: This is my first post. This site is a great find. Thank you for any help. My problem is the similar greenlight problem but my situation is a little different. I am not a do it yourself fixer, but I want to protect myself from erroneous or incompetent repair men by having some idea of what the problem might be and my options about repairs. I have a WS-65813 that was purchased in Feb. 2004, so about 3 1/2 year old. I have occasionally, every several months or so, had the TV shut off with the green flashing light. As the troubleshooting guide directed, after the flashing stopped, I just turned the TV back on and everything was fine. Recently, maybe 6 to 8 weeks ago, after watching TV for a while, it started to have slight twitching along horizontal lines which seemed to get worse and then finally the TV would shut off suddenly but the green light remained on and constant. I would turn the TV off and then back on and it would operate fine, but still with the "twitching". Sometimes it would play for hours or even several days (not playing constantly) with out a shut down. Other times it would shut down during the first half hour of play. (Doesn't matter if I'm playing TV or DVD. Same prob.) I had a TV repairman, come to my home, $70 for service call, and $70 for first half hour. They(repairman and assistant) wanted to see the problem and it twitched twice but they were looking away from the screen and didn't see it. He took the back off and didn't see any leaking, in fact said there is a protective tray that would keep fluid from leaking on the signal board. He said it might be the Digital Board but needed to see the problem before he would do anything. I was to call him next time. Of course they never can just come on demand. The problem has gotten worse and worse, bigger areas of twitching and last night after several hours of watching TV it shut down. I turned it off and then on which lasted a few minutes only and finally couldn't turn the TV back on. Just Blue Screen--I was watching DVD, but TV wouldn't turn on picture, either. I tried again this morning and the TV turned on OK. I only watched for a few minutes and it didn't turn off. Seems to be two problems that are related. The flickering or twitching along horizontal lines, different spots on the screen, and then shut down, green light stays on constant, not flickering. Almost seem like something loose that shorts out?? Sorry for long post. Any suggestions and advice on dealing with repairmen would be greatly appreciated. I love this TV, paid $5,500 for it and want to fix it and not just get ripped off. Could you please send me the article with pictures to repair the DM Board. I will be happy to share my progress with all of you. ~Mae
Greg, tkirk, and 7stole6, I sent all three of you the DM board repair. Hope this helps you. Just remember one thing, this does help some folks out and saves them tons of cash, but it does not help everyone. if you have no soldering experience, please take the board to someone who does. Good Luck, and keep us informed of the progress of these repairs.
Larry Dillon said: Greg, tkirk, and 7stole6, I sent all three of you the DM board repair. Hope this helps you. Just remember one thing, this does help some folks out and saves them tons of cash, but it does not help everyone. if you have no soldering experience, please take the board to someone who does. Good Luck, and keep us informed of the progress of these repairs.
Thanks Larry! I will try to pull the DM board out on Wed. I will keep everyone posted.
Larry Dillon said: Yes it does. If you want the detailed version with pictures and things, leave your e-mail and I would be more then happy to send it to you. Good Luck with this repair and let us know how you make out with this TV set.
Larry, I have the green blinking light of death and want to do the caps replacement. Please send me the detailed version with pics so I can remove the DM Module properly. Thanks, Bob.
Larry,
I too have the green blinking light of death. Mitsubishi WS-65813. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [email protected]
Schott, I have sent you the DM board repair procedure, as well as the DM board model with a light engine, as a lot of sets are still made with the light engine and they do not have the three picture tubes inside them. But the revision will show you where the DM board is and then you can use the DM instructions to do the repair. If you do have the capacitors swollen on the tops, and you do not know how to solder or unsolder, my best advice would be to take the board to someone who can solder. Even if you have to pay 50 to 100 bucks, it will still save you almost a grand if indeed this is your trouble with your TV set. Good Luck, and keep us informed.
Larry Dillon said: I am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set. For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, low wattage soldering iron, a desoldering tool, and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Replace the bad capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour high temp capacitors (part number: P13119-ND ) and they can be purchased from http://www.digikey.com. I also use the Radio Shack desoldering tool cat# 64-2060. It's only $10 and will make quick work of removing the old capacitors without damaging the board. Procedure This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience. Start by unplugging the TV and remove the rear panel. If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement. Unplug the coax and digital audio cable (if present) from the DM rear panel and remove the plastic panel's mounting screws and panel. Pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This step is necessary to access one of the DM shield mounting screws. See picture below. The DM and the shield are removed vertically so in order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier. Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM. Unplug the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board and unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield. Remove the board slide. It is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed. Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below. Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above. Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on the following screws as it is very easy to strip the threads. Remove the screws holding the DM shield. There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield (see photo above). The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight. Handle the DM by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board. Here is what a typical capacitor failure may look like: The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed. After removal, these four capacitors measured 209uF, 203uF, 29uF and 7uF! Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation: Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If you are going to install a cooling fan do so now. Stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge. Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. Pictured above is an 80mm 12v 340mA PC fan which is powered by an external 12v supply. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first as not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v. Installation Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable). Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable. Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD. Have fun, and be careful!
I am a new member and share the common problem with my 55613. This artical was the best information that can be found on this problem. I sure could us the the artical with the pictures though.
Whats the model number of your TV set moviecouple?
I do not have that exact service manual as of yet but I will be getting it in a few days or so at the most. If you like you could wait for me to share it with you so you can seee how to disassemble the screen part of your TV set for free or you can download a copy for a small fee from servicemanual.net
No rush. I got my TV running again... so that is enough for now. Thankfully. As for the other questions?
What do you clean it with?
Do you recommend leaving it off for a better crisper picture?
If you plan to NEVER ever have any greasy hands from kids or young children over your home to touch the main screen, sure leave it off, but if you do, It will certainly save you a lot of dough when the screen gets dirty from little hand prints and who knows what else? LOL. No seriously, the protection screen is a nice thing to have if you have children around as screens get costly after you have to replace the second or the third one.
Nope, no kids, no greasy hands. Just me and my wife and no one really comes over. I try and keep my stuff in MINT condition. We do however get lots of dust. Does removing the screen really produce that much of a better picture?
BO,
I just registered on this site, so not sure if I'm doing this right.
I changed out my caps and the blinking light continued and I heard the same clicking sound you did. I felt kind of suspect on how the DM module plugged in, because I had it secured in the protective housing when I pushed it back down in place. So I removed the protective housing and just plugged the DM module board in as a check. This resulted in no clicking, the light blinked for a minute and went out. Turned the power on and I had a tv again. So I unhooked it all again and left the protective cover loosely on while I made sure the DM module was securely pushed in. Then I moved the cover down and secured in place. Of course during each step above, I had to slide the chassis in and out and connect and disconnect the various connectors to allow it to move. I think I only had to connect/disconnect 5 white plug in connectors in addition to of course the two on top of the DM module for USB.
I really want to thank the support on this topic. I bought an on-line technical manual for my WS 55613 Mitsubishi and 4, 35V 1000uF capacitors. Cost me about $13 to repair because my wife's brother-in-law, experienced in circuit boards, did the soldering. Very satisfying to have the tv working again and could never have been done without the wonderful information I found on the internet.
Larry, Many thanks to you for sending me the repair info. I was too desperate to wait and used the info compiled here in this forum. Having spent enough time on my own repairing high tech equipment in the field, I felt confident I could locate the DM board without problems. I opened up the back of the TV and found it all the way to the left, in the vertical position in the shielded metal casing, clearly marked DM circuitry. I managed to score at the first Radio Shack on some caps. It was about 4 hrs of work, and approx. $1000 dollars cheaper. Best thing is I felt the satisfaction of bringing my set back from the dead! Couldn't have done it without all the great info in this forum! Mahalo!
Larry, I sent you the service manual. let me know if you find anything about the vertical sweep problem.
Desmond, great job! Does it not feel good to have that 1000 bucks in your pocket?
am not sure why the link does not work any longer but here is the article to repair the DM boars, and if you want the artcle with all of the pictures as well leave me your e-mail address and I will forward it to you. i have the ws-48511 my email is [email protected]
have a similar issue with my paperweight WS-48511 could you please give me the address of the site that helped you with pulling out the DM. Thanks for the help MY EMAIL [email protected]
Larry got any idea of what I should test? I have a multi-meter but dont know where to start.
I have yet to see the manual. Have not received it yet.
please can someone send me the detail with pictures to pull out he dm adress on where to find it...
my email adrress in [email protected] i have a ws-48511
Hey larry I sent the manual through pando. You shuld have received it by now. I sent to [email protected] is that correct? Is it yhoo or yahoo?
Screen, please simply ask once for what you need, I deleted the two other posts that have nothing but the paste from the other thread. I will send the details to you. Butplease report back on your findings with the repairs on your Mitsubishi TV set. Good Luck
Success!!! First of all I want to give a BIG THANK YOU to Larry and this Forum. I replaced the 4 caps with 1000uF 35v caps. A total of $16 was spent which included the desoldering iron from Radio Shack. The whole project took about 1hr 45min too complete and that even included vaccuming out all of the 4 years of dust that had accumulated. Thanks Again Larry.
Great to hear!! Is it not a nice feeling to have that 1000 bucks in your pocket?!
Well tonight I found this website - as we just had a wierd power spike (first time). And I have the famous flashing light.s
Can anyone send me the manaul for the WS-55813 to [email protected] - It seems that that will be my first steps to saving a lot of money. thank you in advance.
Sure, I would be happy to share with you. I will also send you the famous DM board fix to you. I doubt though thats your problem, heck you never know. You will however need to go to pando.com and download the free software so you can look at this manual. good Luck, and please let us know what you find with this repair.
I too have a problem with my Mitsubishi flashing green light, can someone please send me the address of the site which helps with pulling out the DM. Please e-mail to [email protected]
Thanks everyone!
Larry, I like apparently many others have the same problem with a mits. 4 year old projection tv. The flashing light and the failure to power up suggests to me the dm board has the same problem as the many others. Would you be so kind and e-mail to me the article and photos for the removal and repair of the board. Thanks T.Kirk [email protected]
Larry, like T.kirk and many others i have a ws-65713 that is about 4 1/2 years old and having problems. The tv reset itself last night and now will not power on. After reading this thread i am inclined to think that it also has a dm board problem. Can you please send me the information and pictures for the removal and repair of the board. Thank you very much. [email protected]
Greg, tkirk, and 7stole6, I sent all three of you the DM board repair. Hope this helps you. Just remember one thing, this does help some folks out and saves them tons of cash, but it does not help everyone. if you have no soldering experience, please take the board to someone who does. Good Luck, and keep us informed of the progress of these repairs.
Thanks Larry! I will try to pull the DM board out on Wed. I will keep everyone posted.
Larry,
I too have the green blinking light of death. Mitsubishi WS-65813. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [email protected]
Schott, I have sent you the DM board repair procedure, as well as the DM board model with a light engine, as a lot of sets are still made with the light engine and they do not have the three picture tubes inside them. But the revision will show you where the DM board is and then you can use the DM instructions to do the repair. If you do have the capacitors swollen on the tops, and you do not know how to solder or unsolder, my best advice would be to take the board to someone who can solder. Even if you have to pay 50 to 100 bucks, it will still save you almost a grand if indeed this is your trouble with your TV set. Good Luck, and keep us informed.
I am a new member and share the common problem with my 55613. This artical was the best information that can be found on this problem. I sure could us the the artical with the pictures though.
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