Glad you found a bad one , should work for you or there is a low value resistor open somewhere. or perhaps th aic is nG< would not be the first time new IC's were bad!
Actually one Pico on each IC are hard wired but labeled as PS, so I suppose my board production run didn't use 4 per side as the service manual shows and with the IC out of the circuit I can check the Pico's in circuit without removing, right? Will also run a quick measurement of the micro chip resistors to make sure none are open.
Also not sure how much the convergence will be effected by the replacements and don't have all my old test equipment anymore, not sure if I can put an alignment pattern on the screen. Got to hit the manual, maybe that is done now with the remote.
Larry, I'm an old electronics guy, cut my teeth on tubes and building my test gear, I just got the replacement resistors in the mail, I can't see them at my age, how in the world will I install those little fleas on the board?
Ok so I found the STK 392-570's for $5.99 at http://www.suburban-elect.com/display/STK392-570/STK392-570 but now my question is how hard are they to replace and I basically don't have any experience with TV repairing but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!!!! They don't look that hard but.......I could be wrong. That is alot cheaper than buying the whole D board but I think that it is worth a shot, what do you think?? Thanks jjfay
You bought cheap replaement IC's, you should ONLY use the original Sanyo IC's. you might also need to test and replace, return resistors and or pico fuses, and then with these replacement have a yeck of a time doing the alignment of the convergence. Very rarely are these IC's plug and playyou should read all you can on this matter here on techlore. and there is a lot of usefull info on this matter here. You slso need to know how to solder on printed circuit boards. this is not a job for the etxtreme beginner by no means.
I have a Sony kp51ws500 HD projection TV with the outline effect mostly green and red. I would like to get hold of a manual for this TV ([email protected]) and confirm if the ICs (IC numbers are STK392-560) are the same for this TV as I have not looked inside yet.
Larry, Sounds like I am getting in over my head since I know nothing about soldering. I haven't bought anything yet, but I did call Tri state and they will rebuild my D board for $130 +shipping. Do you think that will fix the problem? I don't want to dump a lot of money into this TV and then just have to go and buy a new one anyway. Is that a good price to rebuild a D board or does anyone know where to get a cheaper D board? As always Thanks.
Larry: I am new to this site but am absolutely amazed that there is still people like you out there that are generous and kind enough to help so many! Even if I cannot figure my issues out myself its nice to see you helping so many others. I have a KP-51ws510 and like so many others the convergence is wacked! It happened when I moved it. In the morning it was perfect and moved it in the afternoon upstairs to replace broken hitachi. I was extremely carefull but i supose not enough. I did a lot of reading here this afternoon and then tested the pico fuses. All fuses tested at .2 ohms. i spoke to my uncle who is an electronics genious and he said that means they are good. Unfortunetly he lives far and unfortunetly I dont know what or where the IC's are. Could you explain or possibly send me the schematics or any help would be greatly appriciated! My email is [email protected] . Thanks again!
Also; I downloaded a manual but am not sure if it is the correct one. Mine is the kp-51ws510. I only saw manuals for the 500 and 520. I am not sure what one i want.
Larry, the source I found for the micro chip resistors, 100ohm, had only one and others back ordered until mid month, any suggestions for a source for the resistors, maybe I'll stuff a 1/8 watt old standard, on the board.
I am buying a used Sony KP-51WS510, I am transporting it in the back of my pickup-are there any special precautions to take before transporting other than covering it up and securing it?
ggalleone said:
Also; I downloaded a manual but am not sure if it is the correct one. Mine is the kp-51ws510. I only saw manuals for the 500 and 520. I am not sure what one i want.
Scroll down farther, I was looking for the same one and found it.
ok thanks i will look in more detail! by the way: i received a call from my local sony repair authorized guy and wow what a jag he was! He insulted me in more ways than you can imagine! At least everyone here is cool! I am coming closer and closer to tackling this project with the support of this forum! thnx again.... MJO, the transportation of my tv is what caused all my problems. the pic was perfect that morning and when I set it up at new house it was all distorted so i dont know much except be extremely carefull during transportation! I would hate to see you have to go through the headaches I am. Good luck my friend!
Ok, found em! STK 392-560. Mounted to the back of the heat fins. There are 2 and they mount to the heat fins with two screws each. I do question the "d" stamp though!!! I dont see one but the board is marked "F" with a marker or print. Maybe im looking in the wrong spot for the mark or stamp. Please help anyone who knows!!??
Also, how do i test these IC'S? I have a digital multimeter but there is about 10 prongs into the board. Any help here would also be greatly apriciated!
OK, i am trying to keep my progress updated so that there isnt 100 questions for someone to reply to. I customized my multimeter to reach the "g" board pico fuses and I get a .02 reading on the lower one but the upper one gives me no reading. I am possitive that I have good contact on both ends of the fuse. Should I start by replacing this fuse before venturing into the IC's ? Can that fuse be replaced with any other fuse size? (someone asked about replacing a pico fuse with a 4 ohm fuse so I am wondering if I can do the same?) Thnx again! One last stupid question: Is it possible to jump or loop the fuse to check if that is the source of the problem?
OK thnx. Thats kinda what I figured. I am wondering if this is a random fuse blowing or what could have caused. Naturally all the service centers say there has to be a prob somewhere to have caused this. What do you think? Can i blow from just being bounced and shifted during the move? Thanks again Larry!!!!
sure I guess anything in this short life of ours could be possible, even from a technical veiw, BUT if you do not have a pico fuse to replace it with then simply use some clip leads across the leads an automobile fastblow AGC type fuse to test it with, just make sure it is around very close to the original value. there is one great way to do this also. Take out the Main AC fuse, take a 100 to 150 watt light bulb with some pigtails or clipleads attach, the leads to the AC fuse location, unplug set first. opps this should be first.now jump across the bad fuse or replace bad components. plug in set, Turn on the set, if the bulb glows bright then dim, let the set play.see if anything is getting warm or hot like the Stk IC. if so, disconnect and do not use like this . time, to replace the fuse and or the convergenc IC's. if the light bulb glows bright, then you know there is still a short or trouble in the set. disconnect set locate, replace , defective components
Glad you found a bad one , should work for you or there is a low value resistor open somewhere. or perhaps th aic is nG< would not be the first time new IC's were bad!
Actually one Pico on each IC are hard wired but labeled as PS, so I suppose my board production run didn't use 4 per side as the service manual shows and with the IC out of the circuit I can check the Pico's in circuit without removing, right? Will also run a quick measurement of the micro chip resistors to make sure none are open.
Also not sure how much the convergence will be effected by the replacements and don't have all my old test equipment anymore, not sure if I can put an alignment pattern on the screen. Got to hit the manual, maybe that is done now with the remote.
The low value resistor usually will measure the convergnc IC's and the convergnce yokes, so I alway pull one side out to get a good measurment.
Thanks for this quick replies, I have the D board out of the set and the IC's removed from the board so should be able to check in circuit.
Larry, I'm an old electronics guy, cut my teeth on tubes and building my test gear, I just got the replacement resistors in the mail, I can't see them at my age, how in the world will I install those little fleas on the board?
I hear ya man, these old eyes call it fly poop. I use a lighted magnafier light. and twezzers
Ok so I found the STK 392-570's for $5.99 at http://www.suburban-elect.com/display/STK392-570/STK392-570 but now my question is how hard are they to replace and I basically don't have any experience with TV repairing but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!!!! They don't look that hard but.......I could be wrong. That is alot cheaper than buying the whole D board but I think that it is worth a shot, what do you think?? Thanks jjfay
You bought cheap replaement IC's, you should ONLY use the original Sanyo IC's. you might also need to test and replace, return resistors and or pico fuses, and then with these replacement have a yeck of a time doing the alignment of the convergence. Very rarely are these IC's plug and playyou should read all you can on this matter here on techlore. and there is a lot of usefull info on this matter here. You slso need to know how to solder on printed circuit boards. this is not a job for the etxtreme beginner by no means.
Great web site for newbies and reminders for the oldbies. http://www.circuitmedic.com/index.shtml
I have a Sony kp51ws500 HD projection TV with the outline effect mostly green and red. I would like to get hold of a manual for this TV ([email protected]) and confirm if the ICs (IC numbers are STK392-560) are the same for this TV as I have not looked inside yet.
That service manual ia available here at techlores technician's corner for a free download. Good luck!
Larry, Sounds like I am getting in over my head since I know nothing about soldering. I haven't bought anything yet, but I did call Tri state and they will rebuild my D board for $130 +shipping. Do you think that will fix the problem? I don't want to dump a lot of money into this TV and then just have to go and buy a new one anyway. Is that a good price to rebuild a D board or does anyone know where to get a cheaper D board? As always Thanks.
you might have to replace a 3.00 pico fuse or two on the G board.
Larry: I am new to this site but am absolutely amazed that there is still people like you out there that are generous and kind enough to help so many! Even if I cannot figure my issues out myself its nice to see you helping so many others. I have a KP-51ws510 and like so many others the convergence is wacked! It happened when I moved it. In the morning it was perfect and moved it in the afternoon upstairs to replace broken hitachi. I was extremely carefull but i supose not enough. I did a lot of reading here this afternoon and then tested the pico fuses. All fuses tested at .2 ohms. i spoke to my uncle who is an electronics genious and he said that means they are good. Unfortunetly he lives far and unfortunetly I dont know what or where the IC's are. Could you explain or possibly send me the schematics or any help would be greatly appriciated! My email is [email protected] . Thanks again!
Also; I downloaded a manual but am not sure if it is the correct one. Mine is the kp-51ws510. I only saw manuals for the 500 and 520. I am not sure what one i want.
Larry, the source I found for the micro chip resistors, 100ohm, had only one and others back ordered until mid month, any suggestions for a source for the resistors, maybe I'll stuff a 1/8 watt old standard, on the board.
Chan
I am buying a used Sony KP-51WS510, I am transporting it in the back of my pickup-are there any special precautions to take before transporting other than covering it up and securing it?
Scroll down farther, I was looking for the same one and found it.
ok thanks i will look in more detail! by the way: i received a call from my local sony repair authorized guy and wow what a jag he was! He insulted me in more ways than you can imagine! At least everyone here is cool! I am coming closer and closer to tackling this project with the support of this forum! thnx again.... MJO, the transportation of my tv is what caused all my problems. the pic was perfect that morning and when I set it up at new house it was all distorted so i dont know much except be extremely carefull during transportation! I would hate to see you have to go through the headaches I am. Good luck my friend!
Ok, found em! STK 392-560. Mounted to the back of the heat fins. There are 2 and they mount to the heat fins with two screws each. I do question the "d" stamp though!!! I dont see one but the board is marked "F" with a marker or print. Maybe im looking in the wrong spot for the mark or stamp. Please help anyone who knows!!??
Also, how do i test these IC'S? I have a digital multimeter but there is about 10 prongs into the board. Any help here would also be greatly apriciated!
OK, i am trying to keep my progress updated so that there isnt 100 questions for someone to reply to. I customized my multimeter to reach the "g" board pico fuses and I get a .02 reading on the lower one but the upper one gives me no reading. I am possitive that I have good contact on both ends of the fuse. Should I start by replacing this fuse before venturing into the IC's ? Can that fuse be replaced with any other fuse size? (someone asked about replacing a pico fuse with a 4 ohm fuse so I am wondering if I can do the same?) Thnx again! One last stupid question: Is it possible to jump or loop the fuse to check if that is the source of the problem?
I would never jump out a fuse, replace it so if here is still a problem, it does not cause any more troubles in the circuit.
I would never jump out a fuse, replace it so if here is still a problem, it does not cause any more troubles in the circuit.
OK thnx. Thats kinda what I figured. I am wondering if this is a random fuse blowing or what could have caused. Naturally all the service centers say there has to be a prob somewhere to have caused this. What do you think? Can i blow from just being bounced and shifted during the move? Thanks again Larry!!!!
sure I guess anything in this short life of ours could be possible, even from a technical veiw, BUT if you do not have a pico fuse to replace it with then simply use some clip leads across the leads an automobile fastblow AGC type fuse to test it with, just make sure it is around very close to the original value. there is one great way to do this also. Take out the Main AC fuse, take a 100 to 150 watt light bulb with some pigtails or clipleads attach, the leads to the AC fuse location, unplug set first. opps this should be first.now jump across the bad fuse or replace bad components. plug in set, Turn on the set, if the bulb glows bright then dim, let the set play.see if anything is getting warm or hot like the Stk IC. if so, disconnect and do not use like this . time, to replace the fuse and or the convergenc IC's. if the light bulb glows bright, then you know there is still a short or trouble in the set. disconnect set locate, replace , defective components
What do you think of my idea of stuffing 1/8 watt 100ohm resistors on the board since I can't get the micro chip replacements until late Nov.
a resitor is a resistor, it should work fine.
And that is what I will probably do, mounting on the top side. If you replaced the D board, where would you get one?
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