sony KP-51WS510-convergence ic-help

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Hi everyone, first i'd like

Hi everyone, first i'd like to just say thanks for all the help and advice given on this forum it is very appreciated. I have the 65ws510 with the dreaded convergence problem, my question is can I just remove the the D and G boards by themselves or do I have to remove the whole tray with all the boards on it to get to the D and G boards??? thanks

Remove the D board ( take

Remove the D board ( take pictures, makes for an easier reinstall) I haven't removed a G board but I don't see why you couldn't. But you should be able to check the fuses without removing it ( correct me if I'm wrong on that someone ).



I think the most important thing in packing the board is to secure those heat sinks. Their what crack the boards. But remember, even if you get your board to a repair shop undamaged, I doubt they'll do as good a job as you when they repack it. And I guaranty the won't take responsibility for it.

I started out the same as you, lost a D board to shipping or theft, not sure which. Then found a used one and done the repair, and now can't believe I didn't do it that way in the first place. But I do hope it all goes well for you and with any kind of luck you won't need this fixed again in the next couple years.

Can someone please tell me

Can someone please tell me how to remove the D board and the G board so I can replace the ic's and check the fuses, thanks.

Mike Teevee
Lefty. I used this to remove

Lefty. I used this to remove mine.

Hope that helps.

I hear ya mathelm! wILL keep

I hear ya mathelm! wILL keep my fingers crossed



I have been following this thread since April when I got convergence problems on my Sony KP-51WS510. Finally, today (Labor day) I was motivated to get into the TV. I have being able to figure out all the steps to remove the D board and/or to put the chasis on service position. Thanks for the tips, advise and manuals.

As I openned TV I indntified the D board and saw something I did not put much attention too initially. Basically I saw (see) this piece of foam arouund the large capacitor located on the left next to two heat sinks. As I was getting familiar with the board, I suddenly realized that this foam must be the material of the electrolitic capacitor. It seems the cap melted or something like that. By now the material is hard like plastic. By looking at mathelm's picture of the board, I imagine some other parts were buried by the material.

The capacitor has a 160V and 1000microF rating.

Larry, could you provide me with any advise? Should I try replacing the capacitor before the STKs?? Could there be some other type of failure in this board? Also the picofuses don't look damaged to the bare eye.

Thanks for your time


Would luv to see a picture of

Would luv to see a picture of that board.

I have the same problem with

I have the same problem with my kp-51ws510 the blue color has shifted can someone help me with a manual.

This is allot of help, my

This is allot of help, my color blue has shifted to the leftwhat can i do?

Can someone please tell me

Can someone please tell me how to get the two spade clips off the G board, I can't seem to get them off, I have a bad 5amp pico fuse and need to get the board off so I can replace the bad fuse. help!



My KP-43HT20 developed the bowtie effect for red and green. I checked the diagnostic screen and there were no errors noted. I read this excellent thread (thanks!) and was able to carefully remove the D board and have the local TV repair shop replace the two convergence ICs and two bad PICOs. The PICOs on the G board check OK with a multimeter. I easily re-installed the D board in one tenth the time it took to remove (thanks to copious notes, labelling of wires, and pictures). That's where the good news ends.

My NEW??? problem is that the red and green color guns didn't turn on from the moment I fired up the repaired TV. Blue works fine. I know this can be made to happen in service mode, but I swear I didn't go anywhere near there! Does this suggest a pre-existing issue or something wrong with the repair? Would a bad "new" IC do this? A soldering issue with the IC? If so, which pin(s)? A bad connector? If so, which one(s)? I've already removed the D board for the second time and checked my connections vs a schematic while I was doing so. Unfortunately, I don't have the skillset required to check individual circuits for voltage, etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as my next step will be to go back to the repair shop with my tail between my legs (they warned me that I would regret not paying them $400+ for a complete service).

Thanks in advance!

They warned you after you had

They warned you after you had the board out, and at their shop? Not that it matters at this point, but repair shops are like most mechanics, (fill in your own adjective here). I hope Larry can help with this one because I've never had a bulb issue.

btw, What did they charge you?

No, I went to their shop

No, I went to their shop first and verified they would do it. Labor was $50 and they charged me $32 each for the supposed Sony ICs... I have my doubts.
This AM I checked the solder work with my contact lenses out (20/1000 vision is better than a magnifying glass for up close work!) I found a drop of solder slag had bridged the #10 & #12 pin circuits about a half inch away from the IC. Also, a 4.7K resistor on #15 pin had checked fine before I brought them the board but was now a short.

I brought the board back to the shop and was treated as if I were trying to scam them. Their actions: #1 - They said "nothing could go wrong on this board which would cause the color guns to not fire" (Is this true by the way?) #2 - They scraped away the solder bridge with a fingernail (no apology, just a glare)#3 - They refused to check the resistor, stating, and I quote, "the odds of a surface mount resistor failing are about the same as Bin Laden becoming president of the U.S." (A funny line but I wasn't laughing at the time) I understand the words "no warranty" but I did expect a little follow-up help if needed, not necessarily for free.

If the resistor really is reading as a short is this a minor adjustment issue or could it be causing my main problem?


Some progress... I

Some progress... I reinstalled the D board after the previously mentioned apparent solder bridge was removed and I now have 3 colors (but still a bowtie convergence issue). If that wasn't the problem, I guess I have a loose wire in a connector but I didn't notice any. I didn't replace the surface mount resistor which still reads 0 ohms on my $7 Harbor Freight multimeter.

Will someone please answer these basic questions re convergence:

1. When you warn against making adjustments to a set before making the repair are you referring to manual ones in service mode only or do you include auto focus? Before reading this thread, I stupidly used auto focus to try to fix an obvious broken part issue.

2. Is the bowtie effect something that can be fixed via manual adjustment (once ICs and picos are replaced if necessary) or does it absolutely indicate further bad parts? Conversely, is an adjustable convergence problem only one where the picture is basically normal and straight but the colors don't overlap correctly? 


P.S. - Does anyone know if Larry still monitors this thread? I think his last post was Aug 22.

I wish I knew something to

I wish I knew something to tell you. If you could take a picture of the resistor reading zero ohms I could check one of the D-boards I have here.

You need to use that ohms meter to make sure there isn't still a short on those IC solders. I can't remember if that Harborfreight meter has a continuity checker.

I was speaking of the manual adjustments in service mode. Once you know there are no shorts, and weather or not that resistor is good or not, you may have to adjust it manually, which may take hours. I read somewhere about using a couple of strings stretched across the the screen ( vertical and horizonal ).

I appreciate all of the

I appreciate all of the feedback mathelm. No pics of the 4.7k surface mount resistor on the back of the D board but there are several just inboard of both convergence ICs. Very tiny black chips as well as tiny silver capacitors. The one reading shorted is between two capacitors: r/c/R/c... I highly doubt that I could replace it myself. The part is available from Sony for a dollar something. I'm very tempted to adjust the convergence without replacing it in the hopes that it really isn't bad or that it isn't critical. My alternative is to drive the board 80 miles to Los Angeles where there are probably 10,000 repair shops, one of which may agree to change it out.

My multimeter doesn't have a dedicated continuity test but I've been using the 200ohm scale to test fuses and continuity between adjacent IC pins. If the nominal reading of 1 doesn't change I assume the fuse is bad or circuit open. If the reading goes down to 0, or close to it, I assume the fuse is good or circuit shorted. If this isn't correct please advise and I'll buy a better meter.

I'm still hoping to get question #2 from my last post answered by someone before I make any adjustments.

Yea, that works for

Yea, that works for continuity testing. At this point without input from Larry, I'd have to say start adjusting. If you can move one of the colors ( one that is "bow tied") all the way up, then it's working. Hopefully one of the colors isn't distorted and you can adjust the other two to it. Start from the middle and work your way out in a circular motion. You may need to go out to the edges from time to time to move them out a bit so you can see what you're doing. Kind of like untangling a net. Keep in mind that at anytime, for no obvious reason, all the lines may jump into a squiggly mess. If this happens just go the other way with the adjustment, and you may have to go farther back than where you started to get it to unsquiggle. You may have to move one block over and move it a bit (which you can't see what you're doing with it squiggled up). This may not happen at all, but tke your time and be ready for it if it dose. Take your time, and remember, the lines don't have to be perfectly straight, they just have to be aligned with each other to make for a good HD picture.

I probably made this sound worst than it is, but just be careful.

Noble454 said:

Noble454 said:
My KP-43HT20 developed the bowtie effect for red and green.... my next step will be to go back to the repair shop with my tail between my legs ...

 mathelm is giving you some good help on this set, to be careful adjusting. I went into the service menu too soon on the Sony KP I had, before all parts issues were fixed, and it took many hours to dig my way back out. 

Have you searched this site for your model number KP-43ht20 ?.

There are several threads related to that model , but this one in particular might help:

 If need be find a local technician with a helpful rather than antagonistic attitude.

Voltage OK? Thanks for

Voltage OK? Thanks for pointing me to the other thread alnp. Larry and the other expert advise to check the voltage on the G board picos and two resistors on the D board but I didn't see where they addressed any specific values. Mine are supposed to be +-22. My cheap meter reads +24.4 and -23.7 which seems ballpark close. Is the difference meaningful?

Thanks for the adjusting advice mathelm. I'm still trying to dot as many I's and cross as many T's as I can before I go for it.

Ok guys here it goes sears

Ok guys here it goes sears service tech told me to go to service mode a adjust grid starting with green if it's out. from what i read here and yes i read all 18 pages not sure understand what i read but i did read it i should have never done that.
the convergence service manual tells techs to preform 8 enter the restore factory settings and it appears to be as bad as it ever was so hopefully i haven't screwed up to much. I believe i have a middle pin cushion problem (bow tie effect). The geometry of the green grid is off. I also appear to have a wave problem only one the top.
Only tv repair guy wants $550 to fix. I took the front grill off and can see that ics are stk392-560 and if i understood right i should upgrade to 570 correct?
and that I should also check the fuses and that there are 8 of those? and a good fuse will read 0 on a multimeter?
not sure about the soldering thing just scared i guess I have a cold heat will that work?
and where to you get this heat sink compound? my husband uses heatsink tape in hvac and can that be used?
I know i have a million questions but please help you guys are awesome with all your help!!!!!!
i have downloaded the service manual thank you


Your IC's should be "STK392

Your IC's should be "STK392-120" and in my opinion, you should go with "STK392-150", the last 3 digits being the wattage rating of the chip.

You may have screwed up by adjusting before the repair, but it's not the end of the world. You can fix it with a little (ok a lot) of patience.

Yes a good fuse will read 0, or close to it depending on your meter.

I haven't tried a cold solder, but from what I've heard I'd have to say no. A cheap one from Harbor Freight will work find though. Soldering isn't hard, just takes patience (and in my case, a magnifying glass). Theres a video posted in this thread which should help, and I think I listed my own technique.

Heat compound can be found at any computer store. It's used between the CPU and it's heatsink on all computers. I don't think the heat tape will work.

You'll have to remove the board from the rear of the TV, and you'll get a better look at things once you open it up.

took front cover off and ics

took front cover off and ics are stk392-560
so should i use the 570
found another repair guy who said that he had parts and would charge 127.00 for visit plus parts considering paying it and then he a can fix what ever i screwed up by moving the grids :(
thanks again for all your help

a pico fuse is also a ic link if i understand the service manual?
5a 1-533-597-31 times 2 on G board
3.15a 1-533-595-31 times 6 on D board

thank you

trying to convince husband we can do this and save the 127.00 plus tax

:) dawn

hey i think that i read that

hey i think that i read that you can use a 4amp fuse for the 3.15 or am i just making things up?
and also are these fuses about quater inch and i could use the ones from radio shack a 4 pak for under 5 bucks?
repair guy doesn't have them and can't get them for a week hazards of a small town.
thanks again guys for all your help


$127 would be a great price.

$127 would be a great price. But I doubt that would include fixing a grid problem, that can take hours. I've only done three, none of which needed fuses, so I really can't advise you on that. But cheap parts (especially from radio shack) usually mean repairing the same part soon.

Always go with the higher wattage rating, so yes go with the 570's.

terry p
I have a KP-57ws510 with a

I have a KP-57ws510 with a covergence problem, I don't have any knowledge on what to do, could someone help?

Alnp said:

Alnp said:

Chip said: I'm back. On my Sony KP-65WS500. I replaced STKs and pico fuses on the G board. Everything looked like it was going well. Just needed to make some convergence adjustments. First did Red on green and it was fine. When I went to do the Blue on Green, I cannot move the blue at all. I can adjust red and green, but not blue. Any suggestions?

find in the manual which convergence resistors are related to the stk blue and check those

I've been traveling a lot for work so a few weeks have passed since I've been able to work on this.  I pulled the D board again and tested all the resistors related to Blue H and V.  They all tested good.  So I went back over all my solder joints on the STK ICs.  I cleanded some things up and re-did a few of the joints and put the board back in.  Everything worked fine after that.  Not sure if it was the clean up or just re-plugging everything back in, but all is good now.  Thanks to everyone in this thread.  I learned a lot.  Hopefully my experience will help someone else.

Larry Dillon said:

Larry Dillon said:
You will need to make sure you get some heatsink compound and dont forget to apply lots of this compound to the metal back of the new IC's before you remount the new IC's to the heat sink. Also you should change both of the IC's because as sure as your born, the other IC will fail a month or so down the road and you will again be back inside the TV set changing the other IC, so it is best to change both at the same time. You might have small feedback resistors burned but most of the time, you only have a problem with the IC's. you also may need the service manual to do touch up alighnment in the service menu as you should never attempt any service manua alighnments without a service Manual. But I have goos news and can save you 25 bucks! Just leave your e-mail addy and i will send you a copy of it for free! You will need to go to and download this proggy as this proggy lets you e-mail and accept large e-mail files as the service manuals are large files. This is the only way i can send large files via my internet provider. Good Luck and Do let us know how you make out with this repair.

[email protected] i would be very thankfull if you could e mail manuel sony kp

OK...I too have the capcitor

OK...I too have the capcitor with goo running out of it. I am not sure that changing the IC's will solve my problem. The manual I downloaded did not have the schematics in it. Does someone have a schematic of the D board? [email protected] Thanks.



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