I forgot to mention no sound either. Before we changed the ICs, we had a picture (though the green convergence was off) and sound. We did the heat sink compound and all the soldering looks good.
I read your post on chris palmer's blog about fixing his panasonic rear projection convergence IC replacement. I replaced the IC's as per the instruction, but I still have the same bowing problem and mis alignment. I see some large gray resistors near the convergence ICs and also some very small surface mount ones underneath the board right next to the IC pins. Can I just place an ohmmeter accros those big grey resistors to check them? or might that fry things or make them inaccurate? Of course I would do this with the tv off.
I know that my old chips sparked a little bit when i was removing solder with the braided solder wick. One of the new ICs started to heat up, so I had to remelt the solder joints on the new IC's to make the chip work.
So, any ideas? I figure the next step is to replace those huge resistors. where do i get those from? I haven't see ones that big at radioshack. Any help would be appreciated. Also, if you have a service manual for the toshiba 57h83 please send a copy to [email protected]. if necessary I will set up a pando account, but I would rather not.
Update: I checked all the big resistors around the conv ICs. They seemed to measure ok(220 ohms on the big ones (red red brown gold) and 2.0-2.4 ohms on the smaller ones (orange/brown? grey gold gold).
Hi! Would anyone mind sending me a link where I can buy the IC's or even that board thing for my Sony KP-51WS510? I received a free one and now I just need the parts and someone who will solder for me :0) Hopefully it will work out for me. Anyways I would be very greatful for the info. [email protected]
Also are the Sanyo ones ok to put in a Sony? Im a bit confused.. I follow directions well so, I can do everything but solder.. I got myself into a pickle!
Oh' Sorry for asking all over again btw but I don't know what links are good and whats expired advice.
Hi Larry Dillon,
Very usefulcomments! I'm planning to give it a shot myself and fix this convercence problem I have with my Sony KP-51WS510. Would you be so kind and email me the service manual? Thanks a lot in advance!
my email is [email protected]
Remember, two years ago you advised me to replace 2 convergence ICs on my Sony Projection TV KP-57WS510 to correct the convergence problem. I did and my TV worked fine for 2 years. Now the defect emerged in the picture is that picture is fizzy and red line jumps across the screen. Sometimes it is adjusted automatically for a moment and then goes again into precarious condition. Flash focus and convergence setting failed to resolve the problem. Great Dillon; I need your expert opinion whether I need to replace the ICs again or it is a different defect and what is that? I have checked all pico and other fuses, all are ok. Thanks.
Hi there, looking to see if someone can send me the service manual for the KP-51WS510? Iam trying to save my father-in-law some money and repair his SONY TV. He has the problem of his colors Red and Blue shadowing the images on the screen. Sounds like the D board is the culprit?
I have a KP 61hs10. I have to leave it on all the time. Whenever I turn it off, or someone else accidently turns it off thinking they are helping me out, the convergence goes totally out. When I get into the service menu, everything is off by the same amount. it takes an hour or so to manually focus the grid. Flash focus does nothing except show that it is not able to get any of the crosses to converge. Any ideas? I have ordered a new Mitsubishi Diamond 73 inch and want to give the sony to a friend. I would like to take care of the problem prior to that. Convergence is lost on all video inputs, so each one has to be manually focused using the grid.
My Sony projection TV KP-46WT500 has a convergence problem.
After I install two new IC STK392-560 and changed one of my yellow Pico Fuse(5amp) on the G-Board, I plugged back all the plugs and turned the TV on and I saw sparks.I can still see the TV, but the convergence problem still continues. I turned off the TV and turned it back on and the sparks were on a different location. I need help. What is the problem with the sparks and the convergence?
Somethings shorted. Will probably turn out to be one your solder joints. Whenever I replace any chip, I always check for continuity between the solder joints. It could be a high amp wire ( one a the big red ones ) not inserted all the way. But either way, you need to go through and check everything.
I just wanted to inform the helpful guys on this site that I have successfully repaired my TV. I'm probably one of the few that actually read all 25 pages of this thread. I have a 51" Sony KP51SW500 that had the bowed lines top and bottom. I found 1 blown 5 amp pico fuse and replaced both convergence IC's with STK392-570s. At first the repair looked pretty difficult but when I actually got to doing it, it was much simpler. It literally took less than 5 minutes to desolder the old parts and solder the new ones in. However, I have over 7 years experience in electronics. I'd like to pass along and reiterate previous information. Maybe we could get an article put together on this forum instead of reading through 25 pages of people asking to email them service manuals that you can download from this site...
1. When you first experience the convergence problem, DO NOT adjust the convergence in the service menu. It will not fix the problem and cause more problems later.
2. Measure ohms on the pic fuses and not continuity. Short (zero) is good and Open (OL, overload, 10M ohms, etc) is bad. Replace 5 amp with 5 amp and 3.2 with 3.2 or 4 amp pico fuses as necessary.
3. Take pictures before disconnecting anything. Mark or label plugs as necessary. Make sure power is disconnected from the wall. Taking the time now saves the headache later.
4. Replace Convergence IC's with OEM SANYO pieces. China knockoffs will be cheaper and fail. I spent $15 a piece and also purchased 1 pico fuse and heat transfer grease. Total =$50 in parts shipped from Canada, arrived to FL in a week.
5. Optional, replace IC's with exact part number (STK392-560) or higher wattage and higher amperage part (STK392-570).
6. After replacement, check continuity of pins to other leads on the board to verify good solder connections. Inspect solder joints for bridges/shorts to other joints. Use a magnifying glass and plenty of light as necessary.
As for soldering the IC's, it's much simpler than it looks. The pins are close together but I've heard some techniques that sounded pretty weird to say the least. First off, I'm not to sure how you can cut each pin on the IC and pull them out individually. At least not on my board. You just can't get something in there to cut them. The proper way to desolder the connections is actually easier than cutting, removing pin by pin, and drilling out the holes. This drilling out the holes actually sounds completely ridiculous. Get a solder sucker. They're cheap ($5-$10) Nicer soldering irons have temperature ranges and you'll wanna set it to 680 degrees or so. Otherwise, a 30 watt soldering iron will get the job done. Just make sure it has a nice sharp tip.
Desoldering with a solder sucker: Remove the screws from the ICs and pry them away from the heat sink. It is important that when desoldering, the soldering iron touches the pin and the pad but only for a short amount of time. Just long enough to melt the solder and quickly place the solder sucker over the pin touching the solder and push the button to suck the solder completely out of the hole. Once all pins are desoldered, the IC should fall out. Clean off all the old heat grease with alcohol.
Soldering the new IC's in place: Put enough heat transfer grease on the new IC's to cover the metal completely. When they are screwed to the heat sink, excess grease will seap out the edges which is fine. If not, you didn't put enough grease on them. With the IC's screwed in place, the pins stick through the board the right amount for soldering. You'll wanna use a very thin solder with flux. Start at one end and alternate to each side as to not over heat the pads. Place the solder iron on both the pad and the pin for a couple seconds and allow the solder to flow into the hole making a solid connection. Do not use an excessive amount or you risk bridging the pin to another pin. Start at pin 1, then pin 18, then pin 2, pin 17, pin 3, pin 16, etc. Allow everything to cool for a minute and wipe the connections with alcohol to remove any flux that can corrode. Test each pin for continuity to another point on the board. It's pretty easy to follow the lines coming from the pin to the next componet.
Well I've been working with electronics for.... 30 plus years now (jeze.. has it been that long) and whateve is simplest tends to be the best. You could cut the pins with a 6.95 pair of snipers...
But I prefer the needle nose pliers method of pulling them out. While
leaving the solder in place.
(Unscrew the IC's from the heat sink and pry them lose)
You do this by placing the hot tip of your iron on the bottom side of the
pin, heating it until the solder melts, while pulling or twisting the pliers
gently until the pin is lose.
After removing the IC's, you use something with a nice metal point like a scriber or a dental pick like this...
From the bottom side of the board, you place the point where the pin use to
be, heat the point and/or solder until the pin pokes through. Let it cool a
quick sec, and wobble the point out of the nice little pin hole you just
created. Repeat as necessary. Line up the new IC pins with your nifty pin
holes (not forgetting the heat paste) and screw them to the heat sinks. From
the bottom side of the board, simply touch the pins with your iron until the
solder melts and your done. No warring your thumb out recocking the solder
sucker, and most importantly, no cold solder joints ( solder joints that look
good but have bad connections).
greetings dear Friends
I have changed the STK IC's (STK 392-570) along with two Pico fuses but the picture is still distorted. The only thing that has been fixed with the above components is Bowing effect. The Picyure is straight but the colours are out of whack. I have checked the soldering also but still the same. I have noticed that auto focus is turning on for few seconds only. I have observed that One of the STK's is not heating up. Can somebody guide me for the same.
SONY KP51ws510
Sharad
Sharad, are you ok? It is so simple. One pico fuse either on G board or D board (under the heat sink) is fused. Replace it with a 5amp fuse and that's it.
Sharad; Even cheap ICs should be hot when getting Current. In your case when one IC is not hot confirms that power is not being supplied to the IC. So check again. On G Board (power supply board)one pico (Yellow) fuse (out of two) is probably blown up.
Zia said:
Sharad; Even cheap ICs should be hot when getting Current. In your case when one IC is not hot confirms that power is not being supplied to the IC. So check again. On G Board (power supply board)one pico (Yellow) fuse (out of two) is probably blown up.
Could you tell me where the pico fuses are on my Sony KP-51WS510. I hear they are yellow. I think threre are 3 under each heat plate (Gray thing with fins). Maybe also you can help with my problem. Plz look for my thread Sony KP-51WS510 Convergence Issue
Dear Zia, I have checked the Pico fuses on both the boards i.e. D & G. They are all fine. You are right about the location of the PICO fuses. Today I am going to replace the STK IC and than will see.
Dear Mr. Dillon I have changed The STK's on my KP51WS510 and even replaced two Pico fuses one on G Board and the other on D board but still the colors are offset. I have noticed that one of the STK is not heating as compared to the other STK. I have come across another problem with the Remote commander also. I am unable to enter into service mode even after pressing DISPLAY-5-Volume + or -. Can you please help me ?
Thanks
Sharad
Dear Sharad; I was already of the view that Current is not being supplied to the STK IC which is not heating up. If fuses are perfect, then check circuit printing. Be reminded that after repair, you have to adjust Flash Focus. As for going to service mode through remote commander, your volume button may be non-functional. Just as Convergence problem is common in almost all Sony Projection TVs, so as the volume button failure problem in Sony Remote Commander is common. Anyhow, entering into Service Mode, will not, in any way, fix any problem.
Dear Zia, Thanks for the tip. My problem is that Flash Focus is working for few seconds only. I am unable to understand the problem even after replacing the another STK, which was not heating up as much as the other one. I have requested Mr. Dillon to help me in this
Dear Sharad, Now I am finally solving your problem. Perhaps Mr. Dillon is out of focus so awaiting his reply is just wasting of time. Note, alongwith solder joints of STK IC pins, there are many tiny Feedback Reistors. One of them is difinitely damaged or disconnected from the circuit while soldering (excessive heat applied). You find out with OHM meter and short the circuit with a very thin copper wire and you done. Working of Flash Focus for few seconds confirms that Current is not being supplied to the IC.
it is definetly there. Its just farther down the list. I have the same set as you and I did the exact same thing as you.
Okay, so we just put in the two new ICs and had a professional solder them. And we have NO picture now. Just a red blinking light. Any ideas?
I forgot to mention no sound either. Before we changed the ICs, we had a picture (though the green convergence was off) and sound. We did the heat sink compound and all the soldering looks good.
I read your post on chris palmer's blog about fixing his panasonic rear projection convergence IC replacement. I replaced the IC's as per the instruction, but I still have the same bowing problem and mis alignment. I see some large gray resistors near the convergence ICs and also some very small surface mount ones underneath the board right next to the IC pins. Can I just place an ohmmeter accros those big grey resistors to check them? or might that fry things or make them inaccurate? Of course I would do this with the tv off.
I know that my old chips sparked a little bit when i was removing solder with the braided solder wick. One of the new ICs started to heat up, so I had to remelt the solder joints on the new IC's to make the chip work.
So, any ideas? I figure the next step is to replace those huge resistors. where do i get those from? I haven't see ones that big at radioshack. Any help would be appreciated. Also, if you have a service manual for the toshiba 57h83 please send a copy to [email protected]. if necessary I will set up a pando account, but I would rather not.
Update: I checked all the big resistors around the conv ICs. They seemed to measure ok(220 ohms on the big ones (red red brown gold) and 2.0-2.4 ohms on the smaller ones (orange/brown? grey gold gold).
Thanks,
Michael
sorry this was a duplicate of the previous post.
Michael
Thanks :) Our part to our TV comes in on Friday. I hopefully will be watching a 46" TV by Friday night!
I really appreciate all the help!
Hi! Would anyone mind sending me a link where I can buy the IC's or even that board thing for my Sony KP-51WS510? I received a free one and now I just need the parts and someone who will solder for me :0) Hopefully it will work out for me. Anyways I would be very greatful for the info. [email protected]
Also are the Sanyo ones ok to put in a Sony? Im a bit confused.. I follow directions well so, I can do everything but solder.. I got myself into a pickle!
Oh' Sorry for asking all over again btw but I don't know what links are good and whats expired advice.
Hi Larry Dillon,
Very usefulcomments! I'm planning to give it a shot myself and fix this convercence problem I have with my Sony KP-51WS510. Would you be so kind and email me the service manual? Thanks a lot in advance!
my email is [email protected]
I fixed my convergence issue a while back w/ help from you guys, but now when I turn my TV on it is a solid blue until the tv warms up. Any ideas?
Dear Larry Dillon,
Remember, two years ago you advised me to replace 2 convergence ICs on my Sony Projection TV KP-57WS510 to correct the convergence problem. I did and my TV worked fine for 2 years. Now the defect emerged in the picture is that picture is fizzy and red line jumps across the screen. Sometimes it is adjusted automatically for a moment and then goes again into precarious condition. Flash focus and convergence setting failed to resolve the problem. Great Dillon; I need your expert opinion whether I need to replace the ICs again or it is a different defect and what is that? I have checked all pico and other fuses, all are ok. Thanks.
Hi there, looking to see if someone can send me the service manual for the KP-51WS510? Iam trying to save my father-in-law some money and repair his SONY TV. He has the problem of his colors Red and Blue shadowing the images on the screen. Sounds like the D board is the culprit?
it is in the techs corner on the home page here. hope that helps
I have a KP 61hs10. I have to leave it on all the time. Whenever I turn it off, or someone else accidently turns it off thinking they are helping me out, the convergence goes totally out. When I get into the service menu, everything is off by the same amount. it takes an hour or so to manually focus the grid. Flash focus does nothing except show that it is not able to get any of the crosses to converge. Any ideas? I have ordered a new Mitsubishi Diamond 73 inch and want to give the sony to a friend. I would like to take care of the problem prior to that. Convergence is lost on all video inputs, so each one has to be manually focused using the grid.
My Sony projection TV KP-46WT500 has a convergence problem.
After I install two new IC STK392-560 and changed one of my yellow Pico Fuse(5amp) on the G-Board, I plugged back all the plugs and turned the TV on and I saw sparks.I can still see the TV, but the convergence problem still continues. I turned off the TV and turned it back on and the sparks were on a different location. I need help. What is the problem with the sparks and the convergence?
Somethings shorted. Will probably turn out to be one your solder joints. Whenever I replace any chip, I always check for continuity between the solder joints. It could be a high amp wire ( one a the big red ones ) not inserted all the way. But either way, you need to go through and check everything.
I just wanted to inform the helpful guys on this site that I have successfully repaired my TV. I'm probably one of the few that actually read all 25 pages of this thread. I have a 51" Sony KP51SW500 that had the bowed lines top and bottom. I found 1 blown 5 amp pico fuse and replaced both convergence IC's with STK392-570s. At first the repair looked pretty difficult but when I actually got to doing it, it was much simpler. It literally took less than 5 minutes to desolder the old parts and solder the new ones in. However, I have over 7 years experience in electronics. I'd like to pass along and reiterate previous information. Maybe we could get an article put together on this forum instead of reading through 25 pages of people asking to email them service manuals that you can download from this site...
1. When you first experience the convergence problem, DO NOT adjust the convergence in the service menu. It will not fix the problem and cause more problems later.
2. Measure ohms on the pic fuses and not continuity. Short (zero) is good and Open (OL, overload, 10M ohms, etc) is bad. Replace 5 amp with 5 amp and 3.2 with 3.2 or 4 amp pico fuses as necessary.
3. Take pictures before disconnecting anything. Mark or label plugs as necessary. Make sure power is disconnected from the wall. Taking the time now saves the headache later.
4. Replace Convergence IC's with OEM SANYO pieces. China knockoffs will be cheaper and fail. I spent $15 a piece and also purchased 1 pico fuse and heat transfer grease. Total =$50 in parts shipped from Canada, arrived to FL in a week.
5. Optional, replace IC's with exact part number (STK392-560) or higher wattage and higher amperage part (STK392-570).
6. After replacement, check continuity of pins to other leads on the board to verify good solder connections. Inspect solder joints for bridges/shorts to other joints. Use a magnifying glass and plenty of light as necessary.
WOW.. I'm impressed, you really did read all 25 pages...
As for soldering the IC's, it's much simpler than it looks. The pins are close together but I've heard some techniques that sounded pretty weird to say the least. First off, I'm not to sure how you can cut each pin on the IC and pull them out individually. At least not on my board. You just can't get something in there to cut them. The proper way to desolder the connections is actually easier than cutting, removing pin by pin, and drilling out the holes. This drilling out the holes actually sounds completely ridiculous. Get a solder sucker. They're cheap ($5-$10) Nicer soldering irons have temperature ranges and you'll wanna set it to 680 degrees or so. Otherwise, a 30 watt soldering iron will get the job done. Just make sure it has a nice sharp tip.
Desoldering with a solder sucker: Remove the screws from the ICs and pry them away from the heat sink. It is important that when desoldering, the soldering iron touches the pin and the pad but only for a short amount of time. Just long enough to melt the solder and quickly place the solder sucker over the pin touching the solder and push the button to suck the solder completely out of the hole. Once all pins are desoldered, the IC should fall out. Clean off all the old heat grease with alcohol.
Soldering the new IC's in place: Put enough heat transfer grease on the new IC's to cover the metal completely. When they are screwed to the heat sink, excess grease will seap out the edges which is fine. If not, you didn't put enough grease on them. With the IC's screwed in place, the pins stick through the board the right amount for soldering. You'll wanna use a very thin solder with flux. Start at one end and alternate to each side as to not over heat the pads. Place the solder iron on both the pad and the pin for a couple seconds and allow the solder to flow into the hole making a solid connection. Do not use an excessive amount or you risk bridging the pin to another pin. Start at pin 1, then pin 18, then pin 2, pin 17, pin 3, pin 16, etc. Allow everything to cool for a minute and wipe the connections with alcohol to remove any flux that can corrode. Test each pin for continuity to another point on the board. It's pretty easy to follow the lines coming from the pin to the next componet.
Well I've been working with electronics for.... 30 plus years now (jeze.. has it been that long) and whateve is simplest tends to be the best. You could cut the pins with a 6.95 pair of snipers...
But I prefer the needle nose pliers method of pulling them out. While
leaving the solder in place.
(Unscrew the IC's from the heat sink and pry them lose)
You do this by placing the hot tip of your iron on the bottom side of the
pin, heating it until the solder melts, while pulling or twisting the pliers
gently until the pin is lose.
After removing the IC's, you use something with a nice metal point like a scriber or a dental pick like this...
From the bottom side of the board, you place the point where the pin use to
be, heat the point and/or solder until the pin pokes through. Let it cool a
quick sec, and wobble the point out of the nice little pin hole you just
created. Repeat as necessary. Line up the new IC pins with your nifty pin
holes (not forgetting the heat paste) and screw them to the heat sinks. From
the bottom side of the board, simply touch the pins with your iron until the
solder melts and your done. No warring your thumb out recocking the solder
sucker, and most importantly, no cold solder joints ( solder joints that look
good but have bad connections).
greetings dear Friends
I have changed the STK IC's (STK 392-570) along with two Pico fuses but the picture is still distorted. The only thing that has been fixed with the above components is Bowing effect. The Picyure is straight but the colours are out of whack. I have checked the soldering also but still the same. I have noticed that auto focus is turning on for few seconds only. I have observed that One of the STK's is not heating up. Can somebody guide me for the same.
SONY KP51ws510
Sharad
Sharad, are you ok? It is so simple. One pico fuse either on G board or D board (under the heat sink) is fused. Replace it with a 5amp fuse and that's it.
Thankyou Zia I have already tried that but the result is same. The problem might be with the Cheap IC's.
Sharad; Even cheap ICs should be hot when getting Current. In your case when one IC is not hot confirms that power is not being supplied to the IC. So check again. On G Board (power supply board)one pico (Yellow) fuse (out of two) is probably blown up.
Dear Zia, I have checked the Pico fuses on both the boards i.e. D & G. They are all fine. You are right about the location of the PICO fuses. Today I am going to replace the STK IC and than will see.
Dear Mr. Dillon I have changed The STK's on my KP51WS510 and even replaced two Pico fuses one on G Board and the other on D board but still the colors are offset. I have noticed that one of the STK is not heating as compared to the other STK. I have come across another problem with the Remote commander also. I am unable to enter into service mode even after pressing DISPLAY-5-Volume + or -. Can you please help me ?
Thanks
Sharad
Dear Sharad; I was already of the view that Current is not being supplied to the STK IC which is not heating up. If fuses are perfect, then check circuit printing. Be reminded that after repair, you have to adjust Flash Focus. As for going to service mode through remote commander, your volume button may be non-functional. Just as Convergence problem is common in almost all Sony Projection TVs, so as the volume button failure problem in Sony Remote Commander is common. Anyhow, entering into Service Mode, will not, in any way, fix any problem.
Dear Zia, Thanks for the tip. My problem is that Flash Focus is working for few seconds only. I am unable to understand the problem even after replacing the another STK, which was not heating up as much as the other one. I have requested Mr. Dillon to help me in this
Dear Sharad, Now I am finally solving your problem. Perhaps Mr. Dillon is out of focus so awaiting his reply is just wasting of time. Note, alongwith solder joints of STK IC pins, there are many tiny Feedback Reistors. One of them is difinitely damaged or disconnected from the circuit while soldering (excessive heat applied). You find out with OHM meter and short the circuit with a very thin copper wire and you done. Working of Flash Focus for few seconds confirms that Current is not being supplied to the IC.
Thankyou Dear Zia. It is nice to have a Friend like you. Today I will try to fix this thing and will let you know.
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