sony KP-51WS510-convergence ic-help

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Redman
it is in the techs corner on

it is in the techs corner on the home page here. hope that helps

bill peters
I have a KP 61hs10. I have

I have a KP 61hs10. I have to leave it on all the time. Whenever I turn it off, or someone else accidently turns it off thinking they are helping me out, the convergence goes totally out. When I get into the service menu, everything is off by the same amount. it takes an hour or so to manually focus the grid. Flash focus does nothing except show that it is not able to get any of the crosses to converge. Any ideas? I have ordered a new Mitsubishi Diamond 73 inch and want to give the sony to a friend. I would like to take care of the problem prior to that. Convergence is lost on all video inputs, so each one has to be manually focused using the grid.

Ness56
My Sony projection TV KP

My Sony projection TV KP-46WT500 has a convergence problem.
After I install two new IC STK392-560 and changed one of my yellow Pico Fuse(5amp) on the G-Board, I plugged back all the plugs and turned the TV on and I saw sparks.I can still see the TV, but the convergence problem still continues. I turned off the TV and turned it back on and the sparks were on a different location. I need help. What is the problem with the sparks and the convergence?

mathelm
Somethings shorted. Will

Somethings shorted. Will probably turn out to be one your solder joints. Whenever I replace any chip, I always check for continuity between the solder joints. It could be a high amp wire ( one a the big red ones ) not inserted all the way. But either way, you need to go through and check everything.

mauelcm
I just wanted to inform the

I just wanted to inform the helpful guys on this site that I have successfully repaired my TV. I'm probably one of the few that actually read all 25 pages of this thread. I have a 51" Sony KP51SW500 that had the bowed lines top and bottom. I found 1 blown 5 amp pico fuse and replaced both convergence IC's with STK392-570s. At first the repair looked pretty difficult but when I actually got to doing it, it was much simpler. It literally took less than 5 minutes to desolder the old parts and solder the new ones in. However, I have over 7 years experience in electronics. I'd like to pass along and reiterate previous information. Maybe we could get an article put together on this forum instead of reading through 25 pages of people asking to email them service manuals that you can download from this site...
1. When you first experience the convergence problem, DO NOT adjust the convergence in the service menu. It will not fix the problem and cause more problems later.
2. Measure ohms on the pic fuses and not continuity. Short (zero) is good and Open (OL, overload, 10M ohms, etc) is bad. Replace 5 amp with 5 amp and 3.2 with 3.2 or 4 amp pico fuses as necessary.
3. Take pictures before disconnecting anything. Mark or label plugs as necessary. Make sure power is disconnected from the wall. Taking the time now saves the headache later.
4. Replace Convergence IC's with OEM SANYO pieces. China knockoffs will be cheaper and fail. I spent $15 a piece and also purchased 1 pico fuse and heat transfer grease. Total =$50 in parts shipped from Canada, arrived to FL in a week.
5. Optional, replace IC's with exact part number (STK392-560) or higher wattage and higher amperage part (STK392-570).
6. After replacement, check continuity of pins to other leads on the board to verify good solder connections. Inspect solder joints for bridges/shorts to other joints. Use a magnifying glass and plenty of light as necessary.

mathelm
WOW.. I'm impressed, you

WOW.. I'm impressed, you really did read all 25 pages...

mauelcm
As for soldering the IC's, it

As for soldering the IC's, it's much simpler than it looks. The pins are close together but I've heard some techniques that sounded pretty weird to say the least. First off, I'm not to sure how you can cut each pin on the IC and pull them out individually. At least not on my board. You just can't get something in there to cut them. The proper way to desolder the connections is actually easier than cutting, removing pin by pin, and drilling out the holes. This drilling out the holes actually sounds completely ridiculous. Get a solder sucker. They're cheap ($5-$10) Nicer soldering irons have temperature ranges and you'll wanna set it to 680 degrees or so. Otherwise, a 30 watt soldering iron will get the job done. Just make sure it has a nice sharp tip.
Desoldering with a solder sucker: Remove the screws from the ICs and pry them away from the heat sink. It is important that when desoldering, the soldering iron touches the pin and the pad but only for a short amount of time. Just long enough to melt the solder and quickly place the solder sucker over the pin touching the solder and push the button to suck the solder completely out of the hole. Once all pins are desoldered, the IC should fall out. Clean off all the old heat grease with alcohol.
Soldering the new IC's in place: Put enough heat transfer grease on the new IC's to cover the metal completely. When they are screwed to the heat sink, excess grease will seap out the edges which is fine. If not, you didn't put enough grease on them. With the IC's screwed in place, the pins stick through the board the right amount for soldering. You'll wanna use a very thin solder with flux. Start at one end and alternate to each side as to not over heat the pads. Place the solder iron on both the pad and the pin for a couple seconds and allow the solder to flow into the hole making a solid connection. Do not use an excessive amount or you risk bridging the pin to another pin. Start at pin 1, then pin 18, then pin 2, pin 17, pin 3, pin 16, etc. Allow everything to cool for a minute and wipe the connections with alcohol to remove any flux that can corrode. Test each pin for continuity to another point on the board. It's pretty easy to follow the lines coming from the pin to the next componet.

mathelm
Well I've been working with

Well I've been working with electronics for.... 30 plus years now (jeze.. has it been that long) and whateve is simplest tends to be the best.  You could cut the pins with a 6.95 pair of snipers...

cutter

 

But I prefer the needle nose pliers method of pulling them out.  While
leaving the solder in place.

     
(Unscrew the IC's from the heat sink and pry them lose)

You do this by placing the hot tip of your iron on the bottom side of the
pin, heating it until the solder melts, while pulling or twisting the pliers
gently until the pin is lose.

After removing the IC's, you use something with a nice metal point like a scriber or a dental pick like this...

scriber

 

From the bottom side of the board, you place the point where the pin use to
be, heat the point and/or solder until the pin pokes through.  Let it cool a
quick sec, and wobble the point out of the nice little pin hole you just
created.  Repeat as necessary.  Line up the new IC pins with your nifty pin
holes (not forgetting the heat paste) and screw them to the heat sinks.  From
the bottom side of the board, simply touch the pins with your iron until the
solder melts and your done.  No warring your thumb out recocking the solder
sucker, and most importantly,  no cold solder joints ( solder joints that look
good but have bad connections).

SHARAD
greetings dear Friends

greetings dear Friends
I have changed the STK IC's (STK 392-570) along with two Pico fuses but the picture is still distorted. The only thing that has been fixed with the above components is Bowing effect. The Picyure is straight but the colours are out of whack. I have checked the soldering also but still the same. I have noticed that auto focus is turning on for few seconds only. I have observed that One of the STK's is not heating up. Can somebody guide me for the same.
SONY KP51ws510
Sharad

Zia
Sharad, are you ok? It is so

Sharad, are you ok? It is so simple. One pico fuse either on G board or D board (under the heat sink) is fused. Replace it with a 5amp fuse and that's it.

SHARAD
Thankyou Zia I have already

Thankyou Zia I have already tried that but the result is same. The problem might be with the Cheap IC's.

Zia
Sharad; Even cheap ICs should

Sharad; Even cheap ICs should be hot when getting Current. In your case when one IC is not hot confirms that power is not being supplied to the IC. So check again. On G Board (power supply board)one pico (Yellow) fuse (out of two) is probably blown up.

Koopatrol
Zia said:

Zia said:
Sharad; Even cheap ICs should be hot when getting Current. In your case when one IC is not hot confirms that power is not being supplied to the IC. So check again. On G Board (power supply board)one pico (Yellow) fuse (out of two) is probably blown up.

Could you tell me where the pico fuses are on my  Sony KP-51WS510. I hear they are yellow. I think threre are 3 under each heat plate (Gray thing with fins). Maybe also you can help with my problem. Plz look for my thread  Sony KP-51WS510 Convergence Issue

SHARAD
Dear Zia, I have checked the

Dear Zia, I have checked the Pico fuses on both the boards i.e. D & G. They are all fine. You are right about the location of the PICO fuses. Today I am going to replace the STK IC and than will see.

SHARAD
Dear Mr. Dillon I have

Dear Mr. Dillon I have changed The STK's on my KP51WS510 and even replaced two Pico fuses one on G Board and the other on D board but still the colors are offset. I have noticed that one of the STK is not heating as compared to the other STK. I have come across another problem with the Remote commander also. I am unable to enter into service mode even after pressing DISPLAY-5-Volume + or -. Can you please help me ?
Thanks
Sharad

Zia
Dear Sharad; I was already of

Dear Sharad; I was already of the view that Current is not being supplied to the STK IC which is not heating up. If fuses are perfect, then check circuit printing. Be reminded that after repair, you have to adjust Flash Focus. As for going to service mode through remote commander, your volume button may be non-functional. Just as Convergence problem is common in almost all Sony Projection TVs, so as the volume button failure problem in Sony Remote Commander is common. Anyhow, entering into Service Mode, will not, in any way, fix any problem.

SHARAD
Dear Zia, Thanks for the tip.

Dear Zia, Thanks for the tip. My problem is that Flash Focus is working for few seconds only. I am unable to understand the problem even after replacing the another STK, which was not heating up as much as the other one. I have requested Mr. Dillon to help me in this

Zia
Dear Sharad, Now I am finally

Dear Sharad, Now I am finally solving your problem. Perhaps Mr. Dillon is out of focus so awaiting his reply is just wasting of time. Note, alongwith solder joints of STK IC pins, there are many tiny Feedback Reistors. One of them is difinitely damaged or disconnected from the circuit while soldering (excessive heat applied). You find out with OHM meter and short the circuit with a very thin copper wire and you done. Working of Flash Focus for few seconds confirms that Current is not being supplied to the IC.

SHARAD
Thankyou Dear Zia. It is nice

Thankyou Dear Zia. It is nice to have a Friend like you. Today I will try to fix this thing and will let you know.

wanna be elecronics
I have a sony rear projection

I have a sony rear projection t.v model KP-46c70.I,ve changed the convergence ic's.The picture was good for about 5 seconds then went back to un aligned.The red seems to be the only one brighter and out of convergence.I took a piece of cardboard and covered each bulb individually.The green and blue focus good together but the red with either green or blue is brighter and out of convergence.After I installed the convergence ic's,I counted the blinks on the red on off button,There were 7 including the 1st blink.Obviously theres something I did wrong any advice?Also ,where could I get a service manual?

Redman
well, I finally did it....I

well, I finally did it....I ordered the Ic's. I will be taking the boards out and bringing them to my uncles house cause he has a ton of experience soldering on electronic boards. I do have a question on how the connectors work from one board to the other though. Im not sure how they disconnect. Any help would be great!

MellissaRose
I actually might know the

I actually might know the answer to this! My husband & I just disconnected the ICs from our Sony rear projection TV. There are 2 and they are on the "D" board. They are glued to another larger piece and the soldered in place. You can easily pry the ICs glue. But you need to de-solder (un-solder?) the ICs. You can detach the D board and then lift it up. You will see the ICs just have a little circle of solder underneath each wire. Heat up the soulder and then they should pull out.

Someone mentioned doing something with heat sink compound. I'm not sure what though. We've only made it to taking out the bad ICs. We ordered the new ones last week so we are also waiting for them to arrive.

Good luck! :)

mathelm
That would be the "glue" you

That would be the "glue" you mentioned. It's generally called thermal paste, be sure and buy a tube of this at most any computer store, even best buy.

Redman
Thank you for the reply. But

Thank you for the reply. But my question is not about the disconnection of the IC's(i already got that one covered:)). My question is about the electronic black clips that join the different boards together. Thanks anyway though.

wfl_colorado
As I recall when I did mine,

As I recall when I did mine, one side of the clip(top) would flip up then you can see how they disconnect(I believe you pop it up got release if from the other board. The bigger issue what the red wire that goes the high voltage area, or r/b/g adjust near the front of the TV. To get this off, you have to push in and twist in order to release it. If you are close to Colorado, I will sell the board out of my TV since I fixed the convergence issue, but now I have another issue that I don't think I can fix myself. I turn the TV on and the R/G CRT's don't turn on or if they do, they fade out until the TV is warmed up. Not sure what needs to be fixed in this area.

Redman
I am in chicago actually but

I am in chicago actually but still may be interested in purchasing the board if the price is right. Thanks for the advice on the clips though. I do know that with that high voltage red wire I need to be very carefull and discharge the voltage before removing. What I am wondering is what way do I twist or does that matter? If I remember correctly the crt's are what feed the projectors and if so I believe they are like $300 each. Dont quote me on that though. Thnx again

daplanostud
Does anybody still have the

Does anybody still have the service manual for KP-51ws510. My tv just started having the convergance issue. It would really be helpfull if somebody could send me one. [email protected]

Redman
daplanostud said: Does

daplanostud said: Does anybody still have the service manual for KP-51ws510. My tv just started having the convergance issue. It would really be helpfull if somebody could send me one. [email protected]

go to the techs corner on the home page of this site and download it for free my friend.

daplanostud
I looked for it at techs

I looked for it at techs corner and couldnt find one for HDTV KP-51ws510. found it for KP-51ws500 but not mine.

mathelm
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