I did replace both ICs at the same time, it's just that I'm having problems with the one and not the other. I was aware of the problem of cheap chips from China, and did seek out the original SANYO chips - whether I got them or not is another issue, as I couldn't find a way to tell.
I have a local store near me - Action Electronics in Sanat Ana, CA - that sells the fuses and resistors. I thought I could do the repair if I had the chips - I didn't feel I needed to have a photo guide as I had found one online. I might be wrong, but I've already done so much work and research into this project that I feel like I just need one or two more pieces of advice to get it all together.
I'm going to go ahead with my plan, and if the pico fuse blows once again after replacing all of them and the resistors, I will look into getting the repair kit. I just feel reluctant because of all the time and money already spent, and am not sure if they could guarentee that this repair would finally work.
nobobdy nohow could 100%could guarantee that this repair would finally work.with a kit as no one would know whatbwas already done to the set!!!!
\Larry Dillon
Hello. I think I may be having the convergence problem AGAIN on my Sony KP-51WS510. About 1 1/2 years ago the red was out. Extended warranty covered the repair which consisted of the 2 ICs you have all been talking of. Worked fine up til recently. Now srangely the red converges fine on the right side to center and then gradually gets worse from just left of center to left side. Seems to be a wide, red vertical bar on left side as well. rather uniform pattern, unlike the convergence problem I had in the past. My question is could this be a sign of a more serious problem than just convergence, or is it safe to say that this is just another example of what has been discussed here? Because this unit is getting older, I would rather replace the parts in the kit myself rather than send it out for repair but if this is potentially something different, I may not want to bother.Advice? Thanks.
ChrisThe best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,,
ChrisThe best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,,
Just another bit of info. I said that the red looked to have a wide band on the left side but that is not correct. Actually this looks as if the red on the whole left of center has shifted right. It does not actually extend to the left edge as it looks like it has shifted right until it reaches center. Then from center to right it looks perfectly fine. Thanks again for any help.
Larry could you help me out please??? I have a convergence problem too... I don't know where to get the ic chips from and how to install them. Can you please send the manual to [email protected] Also can you please tell me the part number for kp-51ws510. Thank you in advance...
Larry, thank you for all your input in these forums. I was able to fix one of our tv's just by reading your post's.
Now onto my question, We have a Sony KP-51ws510 that had the convergence issue, ordered new IC's, the 560's but the company sent me 570's saying they no longer stock the 560's because they aren't as good, soldered in the 570's and replaced the pico fuses with 5 amp, up from 3.15, turned on the set and three of the resistors on the for one of the IC's started getting hot and smoking.. picture looked the same as before I replaced the IC's... Any ideas about the 570 IC's?
Thanks in advance, Tim
I bought this tv about a year ago with bad ics and I am finaly ready to attempt to replace the ics I checked the pico fuses under the ic fins they are ok is there anything else I should check. Model kp51ws510. I have the board out just waiting for the ics. Thank you for any help.
new to the forums and TV problems in general. just got a samsung PT5598HDI and the picture is a bit blurred and color is off. lots of red and green tints. is this a convergence problem or just a bad bulb.
I do a lot of computer hardware work, so im confident i can do the work, just dont know TVs
Could you send me the manual as well, i have a Sony KP51ws510 with the same convergence problems that have been described, my email is [email protected]
I'm completely green at this sort of fix but i'm willing to give it a whirl.
thanks for your time. do you know of any video's that help in this fix?
hi,,,same convergance prob as everyone else. i was given a KP51WS510 and after reading till my eyes bleed i decided to give it a go. i got the D board out fairly trouble free, but that blasted red anode hv wire on the flyback drove me up a wall! i will include a simple trick {that worked for me} i found on another post. after adding up all the parts and expense etc...and not a lot of solder expierence here, although i am a 25 year diesel mechanic,lol, i called around on D board repair and ptscorp.com will do it for 98 dollars plus return shipping and even pay to have ups come out and pick it up! suprisingly, i called Sony themselves, and they will repair the D board for 65 dollars with a 90 day warranty and that includes return shipping back to you!! im going to fed ex my board out tommorrow its like 12 bucks and thats for the extra insurance i threw in ,they also said they have a 3-5 day turn around. i figure with the stk's costing at least 30,solder paste etc. what have i got to lose? all my fuses had continuity, not sure if thats the proper way to check them,{just for continuity} but alls i have is the remaining 2 picos on the G board to check. i'll post the turnout here in a week or so. heres the straw trick on that red HV anode wire that worked like a charm.there is a sony tol available for ten bucks or so, but dont waste the money i say....here it is:...........
You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before trying
to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a quarter
turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first, you spread
the clips and even the straw trick may not work.
drink straw trick:
> We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
> tool
> he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
> pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
> the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
> surrounding
> inner part of the FBT.
> good luck folks, hope i have the same!
thank you for your advice on the removal of the Sony second anode wire, yes it does explain several times on how to easily remove that pesky large red wire and yes if you yank on it first most likely you will have a very hard time removing the wire. I have mentioned the removal tool several times also but also mentioned it is really not necessary to have as as many as i have removed I have NEveR used one to remove the wire!!!!!
Larry Dillon
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
Crownrock.. interesting comment. I tried to contact Sony, and all they gave me was the link to 'eservice.sony.com' which will just hook me up with a local service dealer. Can you give us the contact info you used to set up your D board repair?
sure JP, here it is. actually if you go on Sony.com and punch up the D board part no.#A1302708A it will bring up the page for it stating it is discontinued, but shows a price of $65.00. you need to call the Sony repair center in Mt. Pleasant Pa, and talk to Jennifer Rohlfing. she will give you the low down on what to do. the phone number is (724)-696-7297.my take on this is that Sony either feels guilty or obligated or both {in my humble opinion} to its customers and owes it to them to keep them happy and coming back. im a Sony fan for 20+ years, and was fortunate to have this 6 year old set given to me, so if i invest say 80 bills in i... the 65 plus shipping etc...and it hopefully lasts a year or two, i can't complain. i just wonder that how we need to use the original Sanyo stk's why did they have such an early failure rate? i trust all the experts that warn not to use cheap 6 dollar knock off imitations, i just hope Sony doesnt do the same. 65.00 is awful cheap, so i hope they do a turnkey repair job and get me going again. while im here does anybody know how to properly test the pico fuses??? is a continuity test sufficent or do you need to check ohms etc.? all my D board picos had continuity but i want to make certain because i have two more to check on the G board as well. all in all its been very interesting learning something new, without getting jolted as well!! myany thanks go out to Larry D and everyone else who has taught and walked me through this.....this site rules!!!!
Thanks 'Rock!
I'll wait to see when you get yours back, let us know what chips they put back in, assuming they change them!
Larry may be better qualified to answer this, but I would guess if they ohm out at 0, you are OK. I don't know how accurate a continuity test would be, as it depends on other items in the circuit, and what the meter determines as 'continuity'. Technically you should unsolder one side of the fuse to get an accurate reading of only that component. I haven't opened mine up yet, so no experience talking here, just some electronics background. The kit from Larry I guess would cost roughly the same, and you would know all the possible suspects are new, so still deciding which way to go. I have no problem replacing the components, but others may prefer the Sony route. I have to thank Larry and Ed for offering this kit, and don't expect they make much on them.
Keep us posted!
JP
Thanks 'Rock
hi i was just wondering if there is picos on any other board that i should check before i replace the ics and plug it all in. i dont want to wreck the new ics before i even get to watch the tv. lol. every thing checks ok on the board with ics. thank you for any help
you should get the complete kit for your model as all ic's are not alike as there are some that are aftermarket or factory rejects and not the originals also the kit will have all the correct picos with the directions as well as the instructions for your model of set kit is the way to go man!!!!!Larry Dillon
hi,,,Mr. Larry D.........would you happen to know how many pico fuses there are on the G board? i only found one i hope im corret.it is a model KP 51WS510. also is it possible to have both bad stk ic's and ALL of the pico fuses to be good? all the pico's on my D board checked ok, and i only seem to find one on the G board .thanks so much to Larry and all here.
Hi everyone, I replaced my convergence ic's stk392 560's a little over a year ago and the tv set worked fine... just recently the convergence problem came back and I suspected the replacement parts were the cheap kind so I ordered the kit and replaced the ic again and the tv is back in focus but when watching sports like football and the world series the picture looks like the peoples faces have a yellowish tint to them this only happens when watching sports and it seems like the HD is not as "sharp" as before... Larry do you know whats wrong?
I replaced my stock ICs and now the tv won't turn on. I press the power button, then the tv clicks, the red light flashes eight times followed by four quick flashes, and then clicks again. After the last click the light will continue to flash a sequence of four flashes. Any help would be appreciated. I reconnected everything correctly and checked all of the fuses before I put it back together. Before I took it apart it would come on but had a convergence problem.
Larry, would it be possible to get that service manual for SONY KP-51ws510. My email is [email protected]
Thank you
Hi Larry:
I did replace both ICs at the same time, it's just that I'm having problems with the one and not the other. I was aware of the problem of cheap chips from China, and did seek out the original SANYO chips - whether I got them or not is another issue, as I couldn't find a way to tell.
I have a local store near me - Action Electronics in Sanat Ana, CA - that sells the fuses and resistors. I thought I could do the repair if I had the chips - I didn't feel I needed to have a photo guide as I had found one online. I might be wrong, but I've already done so much work and research into this project that I feel like I just need one or two more pieces of advice to get it all together.
I'm going to go ahead with my plan, and if the pico fuse blows once again after replacing all of them and the resistors, I will look into getting the repair kit. I just feel reluctant because of all the time and money already spent, and am not sure if they could guarentee that this repair would finally work.
nobobdy nohow could 100%could guarantee that this repair would finally work.with a kit as no one would know whatbwas already done to the set!!!!
\Larry Dillon
Hello...convergence problem same as everyone else. Can you email the service manual to [email protected]?
thanks a bunch!
May I get a copy of this service manual too please?
Thank you.
Larry,
Could you send me a copy of the service manual ([email protected])? Thanks a lot! Roy
Is it possible to get a copy of the service manual for Sony KP-51WS510? ([email protected]) thanks, bclothier
Hello. I think I may be having the convergence problem AGAIN on my Sony KP-51WS510. About 1 1/2 years ago the red was out. Extended warranty covered the repair which consisted of the 2 ICs you have all been talking of. Worked fine up til recently. Now srangely the red converges fine on the right side to center and then gradually gets worse from just left of center to left side. Seems to be a wide, red vertical bar on left side as well. rather uniform pattern, unlike the convergence problem I had in the past. My question is could this be a sign of a more serious problem than just convergence, or is it safe to say that this is just another example of what has been discussed here? Because this unit is getting older, I would rather replace the parts in the kit myself rather than send it out for repair but if this is potentially something different, I may not want to bother.Advice? Thanks.
Chris
click to know moreChrisThe best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,,
ChrisThe best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,,
Larry, would it be possible to get the service manual for SONY KP-51ws510. My email is [email protected]
Thank you
Just another bit of info. I said that the red looked to have a wide band on the left side but that is not correct. Actually this looks as if the red on the whole left of center has shifted right. It does not actually extend to the left edge as it looks like it has shifted right until it reaches center. Then from center to right it looks perfectly fine. Thanks again for any help.
Chris
Larry could you help me out please??? I have a convergence problem too... I don't know where to get the ic chips from and how to install them. Can you please send the manual to [email protected] Also can you please tell me the part number for kp-51ws510. Thank you in advance...
Scott
Larry, thank you for all your input in these forums. I was able to fix one of our tv's just by reading your post's.
Now onto my question, We have a Sony KP-51ws510 that had the convergence issue, ordered new IC's, the 560's but the company sent me 570's saying they no longer stock the 560's because they aren't as good, soldered in the 570's and replaced the pico fuses with 5 amp, up from 3.15, turned on the set and three of the resistors on the for one of the IC's started getting hot and smoking.. picture looked the same as before I replaced the IC's... Any ideas about the 570 IC's?
Thanks in advance, Tim
I bought this tv about a year ago with bad ics and I am finaly ready to attempt to replace the ics I checked the pico fuses under the ic fins they are ok is there anything else I should check. Model kp51ws510. I have the board out just waiting for the ics. Thank you for any help.
hey guys,
new to the forums and TV problems in general. just got a samsung PT5598HDI and the picture is a bit blurred and color is off. lots of red and green tints. is this a convergence problem or just a bad bulb.
I do a lot of computer hardware work, so im confident i can do the work, just dont know TVs
any help appriciated - zach
Hello Larry,
Could you send me the manual as well, i have a Sony KP51ws510 with the same convergence problems that have been described, my email is [email protected]
I'm completely green at this sort of fix but i'm willing to give it a whirl.
thanks for your time. do you know of any video's that help in this fix?
hi,,,same convergance prob as everyone else. i was given a KP51WS510 and after reading till my eyes bleed i decided to give it a go. i got the D board out fairly trouble free, but that blasted red anode hv wire on the flyback drove me up a wall! i will include a simple trick {that worked for me} i found on another post. after adding up all the parts and expense etc...and not a lot of solder expierence here, although i am a 25 year diesel mechanic,lol, i called around on D board repair and ptscorp.com will do it for 98 dollars plus return shipping and even pay to have ups come out and pick it up! suprisingly, i called Sony themselves, and they will repair the D board for 65 dollars with a 90 day warranty and that includes return shipping back to you!! im going to fed ex my board out tommorrow its like 12 bucks and thats for the extra insurance i threw in ,they also said they have a 3-5 day turn around. i figure with the stk's costing at least 30,solder paste etc. what have i got to lose? all my fuses had continuity, not sure if thats the proper way to check them,{just for continuity} but alls i have is the remaining 2 picos on the G board to check. i'll post the turnout here in a week or so. heres the straw trick on that red HV anode wire that worked like a charm.there is a sony tol available for ten bucks or so, but dont waste the money i say....here it is:...........
You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before trying
to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a quarter
turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first, you spread
the clips and even the straw trick may not work.
drink straw trick:
> We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
> tool
> he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
> pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
> the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
> surrounding
> inner part of the FBT.
> good luck folks, hope i have the same!
thank you for your advice on the removal of the Sony second anode wire, yes it does explain several times on how to easily remove that pesky large red wire and yes if you yank on it first most likely you will have a very hard time removing the wire. I have mentioned the removal tool several times also but also mentioned it is really not necessary to have as as many as i have removed I have NEveR used one to remove the wire!!!!!
Larry Dillon
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
Crownrock.. interesting comment. I tried to contact Sony, and all they gave me was the link to 'eservice.sony.com' which will just hook me up with a local service dealer. Can you give us the contact info you used to set up your D board repair?
Thanks
JP
sure JP, here it is. actually if you go on Sony.com and punch up the D board part no.#A1302708A it will bring up the page for it stating it is discontinued, but shows a price of $65.00. you need to call the Sony repair center in Mt. Pleasant Pa, and talk to Jennifer Rohlfing. she will give you the low down on what to do. the phone number is (724)-696-7297.my take on this is that Sony either feels guilty or obligated or both {in my humble opinion} to its customers and owes it to them to keep them happy and coming back. im a Sony fan for 20+ years, and was fortunate to have this 6 year old set given to me, so if i invest say 80 bills in i... the 65 plus shipping etc...and it hopefully lasts a year or two, i can't complain. i just wonder that how we need to use the original Sanyo stk's why did they have such an early failure rate? i trust all the experts that warn not to use cheap 6 dollar knock off imitations, i just hope Sony doesnt do the same. 65.00 is awful cheap, so i hope they do a turnkey repair job and get me going again. while im here does anybody know how to properly test the pico fuses??? is a continuity test sufficent or do you need to check ohms etc.? all my D board picos had continuity but i want to make certain because i have two more to check on the G board as well. all in all its been very interesting learning something new, without getting jolted as well!! myany thanks go out to Larry D and everyone else who has taught and walked me through this.....this site rules!!!!
Thanks 'Rock!
I'll wait to see when you get yours back, let us know what chips they put back in, assuming they change them!
Larry may be better qualified to answer this, but I would guess if they ohm out at 0, you are OK. I don't know how accurate a continuity test would be, as it depends on other items in the circuit, and what the meter determines as 'continuity'. Technically you should unsolder one side of the fuse to get an accurate reading of only that component. I haven't opened mine up yet, so no experience talking here, just some electronics background. The kit from Larry I guess would cost roughly the same, and you would know all the possible suspects are new, so still deciding which way to go. I have no problem replacing the components, but others may prefer the Sony route. I have to thank Larry and Ed for offering this kit, and don't expect they make much on them.
Keep us posted!
JP
Thanks 'Rock
hi i was just wondering if there is picos on any other board that i should check before i replace the ics and plug it all in. i dont want to wreck the new ics before i even get to watch the tv. lol. every thing checks ok on the board with ics. thank you for any help
you should get the complete kit for your model as all ic's are not alike as there are some that are aftermarket or factory rejects and not the originals also the kit will have all the correct picos with the directions as well as the instructions for your model of set kit is the way to go man!!!!!Larry Dillon
the testing of the picos is a simple continuity test if it measures no continuity the pico is bad it should also measure zero resistance
Larry Dillon
hi,,,Mr. Larry D.........would you happen to know how many pico fuses there are on the G board? i only found one i hope im corret.it is a model KP 51WS510. also is it possible to have both bad stk ic's and ALL of the pico fuses to be good? all the pico's on my D board checked ok, and i only seem to find one on the G board .thanks so much to Larry and all here.
crownrock, my 'G' board had two blown picofuses: PS5001 and PS5002, both 5A, feeding the +22v and -22v voltages to the STK chips on the 'D' board.
Hi everyone, I replaced my convergence ic's stk392 560's a little over a year ago and the tv set worked fine... just recently the convergence problem came back and I suspected the replacement parts were the cheap kind so I ordered the kit and replaced the ic again and the tv is back in focus but when watching sports like football and the world series the picture looks like the peoples faces have a yellowish tint to them this only happens when watching sports and it seems like the HD is not as "sharp" as before... Larry do you know whats wrong?
I replaced my stock ICs and now the tv won't turn on. I press the power button, then the tv clicks, the red light flashes eight times followed by four quick flashes, and then clicks again. After the last click the light will continue to flash a sequence of four flashes. Any help would be appreciated. I reconnected everything correctly and checked all of the fuses before I put it back together. Before I took it apart it would come on but had a convergence problem.
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