The diodes are usually sitting in front or near to your largest caps on first incoming power board. The diodes are usually black in color and have a silver-looking stripe on one end. you must take one end out of board. set multimeter on diode setting. place negative lead on stripe side, positive on other leg of diode. now switch leads to opposite legs. If you have 0.00 in either direction your diode is shorted. If you ever replace a diode, make sure it is the exact replacement and that you put it in correctly. pay close attention to the direction of that silver line. I hope this can help you. At this time I do not have a diagram to look at.
YESSS!!!!.......The blinking green light....I have a Mitsubishi WD-73733.....All I get is the blinking green light.......I pulled the main board out and there are no large black caps.........What caps need to be replaced
We'll haven't found problem yet not a whole lot to go by the diodes are real visable ! What about the test points ? And knowing wheretostart would b nice I checked a couple ,d9a61,d9a60,
OK, Mine did the blinking light off death last night, and turned itself off.
I mean it's done it before, the light thing, but this time I thought, that's it, it's going to die.
I tried the reset, unplugging waiting...plugging it back in, still the light taunting me, flashing.
So, I was reading a post on another forum. Person said, hold the menu and device down for 8 seconds, you will get a code.
I'm not sure what code I am looking for. I did hold them down. It flashed differently than before.
The light stopped. I hit the power button and it fired right up.
I don't know what that really does, but it beats the reset button that does nothing most of the time.
Can anyone else relate?
I got home this evening to the'blinking light of death' on my Mitsubishi WD-62725 and would appreciate some help determining the problem. I have followed the thread regarding cap replacement but would like to get the entire picture before I start taking the set apart. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a WD-62825. When first turned on I have 5V at the test point. After a minute I have the solid red light and the voltage drops. The 3300 caps have been replaced. Any help would be appreciated.
mark in las vegas said: Great. Look forward to reading thru it. I was able to get the chasis out using the mitsu service manual, and I've taken the metal sheilds off to expose the power board and what little can be seen of the other boards. There were two caps that are probably bad on the power board. That may be it. I never got to the GBLOD, just the "static" appearing lines before I shut the tv down off. I'll read thru your stuff and move on from there. Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens.
Robin/Larry: After the holidays, all the family travel, and getting prepared for this season of drag racing here in vegas, I got back on the TV. It was only two of the caps on the power board. TV is up and running in the game room. Thanks for the info. Small donation on its way to Larry. I did not see any posts from him. Hope he is recovering well.
renorushfan said:
Hi,
could you please email me the instructions for fixing the blinking green light issue? it have a wd-62825 and it has the same blinking problem that everyone else seems to have. my email is [email protected]. thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Thanks!
Sorry I've been out a while guys, traveling for work and then sick for a while. Sending emails out now!
Optiman64 said:
YESSS!!!!.......The blinking green light....I have a Mitsubishi WD-73733.....All I get is the blinking green light.......I pulled the main board out and there are no large black caps.........What caps need to be replaced
You can either back up a couple of pages and grab my email addy and send me an email, or leave your address here so I can send you the link to my weblibrary.
rotecki said:
Hay imtrying to find these , there 32v15amp where can I order these on line and what do I call them?? IMG_0206.JPG!how do u add a phote to this????
I get everything from Mouser, been using them for years. As to adding a photo, you have to post a picture using the small photo next to the youtube button you see when you reply to this thread, you can click on that and enter the URL where your picture is hosted and that will do the same thing. You have to have your picture hosed online to see it. I have my own server, but there are many free picture hosting sites out there, IMageShack and Tinypic being two good ones. You upload your photo and it will give you the URL to use for sharing the photo.
As to the parts needed, I need to know what component specifically it is, and if you can get me that jpg so I can see it. Then I can help you find it at Mouser or one of the other parts suppliers.
chevrc3 said:
im in the same boat with the flashing green light if u could email me a way to fix it and how to do it thanks my email is [email protected]
Okay, to you other guys and gals posting above recently, if you want to receive this info I need to get an email address. You can back up a couple of pages and see where I've posted my email address, or you can simply post your's here. Sorry but I'm not a mind reader and have not much time lately. I just email Larry, haven't heard from him since before Christmas myself so hope all is well with him.
Anyway, if you want more technical info, let me know and get me an email addy I can use. If you ahve specific questions, feel free to post them here and we'll see if we can get some eyes on them to help you out.
On my own shitsubishi, I'll be doing a refurb of the power board and FM board soon, and will post a link to the photo journal of that when done. Going to go through Mouser's site and come up with a list of components that can be used, this way anyone else can find them or similar to do their own repairs. Will post on here when I get that done.
mark in las vegas said: Great. Look forward to reading thru it. I was able to get the chasis out using the mitsu service manual, and I've taken the metal sheilds off to expose the power board and what little can be seen of the other boards. There were two caps that are probably bad on the power board. That may be it. I never got to the GBLOD, just the "static" appearing lines before I shut the tv down off. I'll read thru your stuff and move on from there. Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens.
Robin/Larry: After the holidays, all the family travel, and getting prepared for this season of drag racing here in vegas, I got back on the TV. It was only two of the caps on the power board. TV is up and running in the game room. Thanks for the info. Small donation on its way to Larry. I did not see any posts from him. Hope he is recovering well.
Mark
Good deal Mark, glad it worked out for you. Hope to get out your way some day soon, will have to take in the races while there. I used to head down to Florida and run on Palm Beach International Raceway, and here on a local track, Mooresville Speedway, but have burnt the clutch in my car and since it's my daily driver and I'm broke right now I have to hold off on any more pulls until I can afford a comp clutch. You got a site where you post your pics? Always interested in racing!! I'm on Streetfire.net at least twice a week drooling over some of the heavy metal there.
mitsubushi same problem with the model WD62627 with the timer and the blinking light , our insurance company lets these incompetent men try to order parts that they do not even test and then tell us ohh well your money excedded the amount of the insurance crooks. they charge 390..oo for a service call to put in a board and then it may not be the problem!!!! and they told me they have t order another part. I took it to another tv repair man and he said he had to order the same part... this is criminal and they want to settle for 400.00 for a 3500.00 tv what is this world coming to
the parts the wanted to ordr wer the dm module and the E2p and the first guy ordered the module 2 months prior to that .
Well, I have the same blinking green light problem as everyone else on my WD-62827. It occured about a year ago and I just through the TV aside in frustration. It is now a cold day up here in MN and I thought I might try to fix it. I currently have the entire chassis out and all of the boards removed, however I can't seem to visually see a bad cap. Any ideas of which ones to start replacing would be great. Please send any special instructions to [email protected]. Thank You
yet another green light. I got the tv because a buddy gave me the tv when i got it it had a couple lines in the screen. couple days later it wos blkank with the green flasher. It is now in parts but i cand quite get to the boards do you have any picturs of dimantling it and or instuctions one how to fix it. anything helps i would greatly apretiate it ffiii comes out next month and i dont want to play on a 17' screen :) my email is [email protected]
thank you so much for your time
Went to plug a new lamp into the WD62825, and the plug INSIDE the TV fell back inside the unit. So, nothing to plug the new lamp into. How hard is it for someone non-electrical to open up the back of that beast and remount the plug in it's place?
not to bad but you will need to get a service manual there should be one posted here in the technicians corner if not contact me at [email protected].
Larry D.
I have the 52825 and the BGLOD and replaced the caps on the dm and power board and still the same thing..I was checking the test points on the power board and TP5v,TP3.3v,TP12v,and TP10v are not getting a reading..Does anyone know what might cause this,it seems that just that little group is not reading..Thanks so much in advance
i got the same problem guys i had replace the lamp 3 times already and i still have this green light od the DEAD blinking if anybpdy knows how to get fix pls pls E-mail me to [email protected] thxs
I posted a message about this earlier, I didn't see it show up so who knows what happened to it... Anyway, hopefully you will get this reply...
"I tested the 3.3V and the 5V test points on
the power supply before stuffing everything back into the television.
The problem is that the power supply at the 3.3V and the 5V test
terminals don't have voltage. I have been testing all the components on
the board and following the schematics from the service manual. It
looks like from the manual, that the 3.3V and the 5V side become
available when there is a voltage coming from the PON-2 lead coming
from the DM board. I would have thought for sure that the power supply
was bad. But I pulled the power supply out and traced and tested
everything back to (I am ONLY assuming at this point) a missing voltage
on the PON-2 lead on the K3 connector on the power supply coming from
the DM board (PIN 4 on both boards). This is how far I have gotten so
far. I supplied an external 5 volts to the PON-2 lead on the power
supply and then ALL the relays activate and then there is the 5V and
3.3V."
" I traced back the PON-2 lead on the DM board
and it goes directly to the IC7A00 processor which means the processor
is not switching on the PON-2 lead. I checked all the external switches
which should be easy enough to do.
The easiest way to check the switches to make sure they are all ready
to turn on the set. Locate the LF pin header on the DM board 6th one in
from the back of the WD-62825 unit. Each colored pin should have a
black (ground) with it (except the red and white one). If you check
continuity with your meter, each switch should be showing continuity.
If any of them are open, you need to fix that first. If ANY of them are
open, the unit will not turn on."
I hope this helps.. Mine is STILL apart in a million pieces... I will be taking the boards out once again and removing every capacitor until I am blue in the face... ;) This has now become a HUGE project that I can forsee lasting about 2 years...
Hotrod1976 said:
I have the 52825 and the BGLOD and replaced the caps on the dm and power board and still the same thing..I was checking the test points on the power board and TP5v,TP3.3v,TP12v,and TP10v are not getting a reading..Does anyone know what might cause this,it seems that just that little group is not reading..Thanks so much in advance
The diodes are usually sitting in front or near to your largest caps on first incoming power board. The diodes are usually black in color and have a silver-looking stripe on one end. you must take one end out of board. set multimeter on diode setting. place negative lead on stripe side, positive on other leg of diode. now switch leads to opposite legs. If you have 0.00 in either direction your diode is shorted. If you ever replace a diode, make sure it is the exact replacement and that you put it in correctly. pay close attention to the direction of that silver line. I hope this can help you. At this time I do not have a diagram to look at.
YESSS!!!!.......The blinking green light....I have a Mitsubishi WD-73733.....All I get is the blinking green light.......I pulled the main board out and there are no large black caps.........What caps need to be replaced
Larry regarding green blinking light can you send me the file to [email protected] Please and thank you
Please send the special instructions to [email protected]. I have a wd-62725.i greatly appreciate it.
We'll haven't found problem yet not a whole lot to go by the diodes are real visable ! What about the test points ? And knowing wheretostart would b nice I checked a couple ,d9a61,d9a60,
I think I might of found it ! I pulled out, f9a02,f9a03 and onehas contunudey nd one does not well I think I'm on the righttrack
Hay imtrying to find these , there 32v15amp where can I order these on line and what do I call them?? IMG_0206.JPG!how do u add a phote to this????
OK, Mine did the blinking light off death last night, and turned itself off.
I mean it's done it before, the light thing, but this time I thought, that's it, it's going to die.
I tried the reset, unplugging waiting...plugging it back in, still the light taunting me, flashing.
So, I was reading a post on another forum. Person said, hold the menu and device down for 8 seconds, you will get a code.
I'm not sure what code I am looking for. I did hold them down. It flashed differently than before.
The light stopped. I hit the power button and it fired right up.
I don't know what that really does, but it beats the reset button that does nothing most of the time.
Can anyone else relate?
I got home this evening to the'blinking light of death' on my Mitsubishi WD-62725 and would appreciate some help determining the problem. I have followed the thread regarding cap replacement but would like to get the entire picture before I start taking the set apart. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a WD-62825. When first turned on I have 5V at the test point. After a minute I have the solid red light and the voltage drops. The 3300 caps have been replaced. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank You,
Stan
im in the same boat with the flashing green light if u could email me a way to fix it and how to do it thanks my email is [email protected]
Robin/Larry: After the holidays, all the family travel, and getting prepared for this season of drag racing here in vegas, I got back on the TV. It was only two of the caps on the power board. TV is up and running in the game room. Thanks for the info. Small donation on its way to Larry. I did not see any posts from him. Hope he is recovering well.
Mark
Sorry I've been out a while guys, traveling for work and then sick for a while. Sending emails out now!
You can either back up a couple of pages and grab my email addy and send me an email, or leave your address here so I can send you the link to my weblibrary.
Email sent Tracy!
Email sent, please let us know how the repair goes!
I get everything from Mouser, been using them for years. As to adding a photo, you have to post a picture using the small photo next to the youtube button you see when you reply to this thread, you can click on that and enter the URL where your picture is hosted and that will do the same thing. You have to have your picture hosed online to see it. I have my own server, but there are many free picture hosting sites out there, IMageShack and Tinypic being two good ones. You upload your photo and it will give you the URL to use for sharing the photo.
As to the parts needed, I need to know what component specifically it is, and if you can get me that jpg so I can see it. Then I can help you find it at Mouser or one of the other parts suppliers.
Okay, to you other guys and gals posting above recently, if you want to receive this info I need to get an email address. You can back up a couple of pages and see where I've posted my email address, or you can simply post your's here. Sorry but I'm not a mind reader and have not much time lately. I just email Larry, haven't heard from him since before Christmas myself so hope all is well with him.
Anyway, if you want more technical info, let me know and get me an email addy I can use. If you ahve specific questions, feel free to post them here and we'll see if we can get some eyes on them to help you out.
On my own shitsubishi, I'll be doing a refurb of the power board and FM board soon, and will post a link to the photo journal of that when done. Going to go through Mouser's site and come up with a list of components that can be used, this way anyone else can find them or similar to do their own repairs. Will post on here when I get that done.
Good deal Mark, glad it worked out for you. Hope to get out your way some day soon, will have to take in the races while there. I used to head down to Florida and run on Palm Beach International Raceway, and here on a local track, Mooresville Speedway, but have burnt the clutch in my car and since it's my daily driver and I'm broke right now I have to hold off on any more pulls until I can afford a comp clutch. You got a site where you post your pics? Always interested in racing!! I'm on Streetfire.net at least twice a week drooling over some of the heavy metal there.
mitsubushi same problem with the model WD62627 with the timer and the blinking light , our insurance company lets these incompetent men try to order parts that they do not even test and then tell us ohh well your money excedded the amount of the insurance crooks. they charge 390..oo for a service call to put in a board and then it may not be the problem!!!! and they told me they have t order another part. I took it to another tv repair man and he said he had to order the same part... this is criminal and they want to settle for 400.00 for a 3500.00 tv what is this world coming to
the parts the wanted to ordr wer the dm module and the E2p and the first guy ordered the module 2 months prior to that .
I have a wd-62825. Please send your special repair instuctions to [email protected]. Much appreciated.
Well, I have the same blinking green light problem as everyone else on my WD-62827. It occured about a year ago and I just through the TV aside in frustration. It is now a cold day up here in MN and I thought I might try to fix it. I currently have the entire chassis out and all of the boards removed, however I can't seem to visually see a bad cap. Any ideas of which ones to start replacing would be great. Please send any special instructions to [email protected]. Thank You
yet another green light. I got the tv because a buddy gave me the tv when i got it it had a couple lines in the screen. couple days later it wos blkank with the green flasher. It is now in parts but i cand quite get to the boards do you have any picturs of dimantling it and or instuctions one how to fix it. anything helps i would greatly apretiate it ffiii comes out next month and i dont want to play on a 17' screen :) my email is [email protected]
thank you so much for your time
Went to plug a new lamp into the WD62825, and the plug INSIDE the TV fell back inside the unit. So, nothing to plug the new lamp into. How hard is it for someone non-electrical to open up the back of that beast and remount the plug in it's place?
not to bad but you will need to get a service manual there should be one posted here in the technicians corner if not contact me at [email protected].
Larry D.
I have the 52825 and the BGLOD and replaced the caps on the dm and power board and still the same thing..I was checking the test points on the power board and TP5v,TP3.3v,TP12v,and TP10v are not getting a reading..Does anyone know what might cause this,it seems that just that little group is not reading..Thanks so much in advance
i got the same problem guys i had replace the lamp 3 times already and i still have this green light od the DEAD blinking if anybpdy knows how to get fix pls pls E-mail me to [email protected] thxs
Larry,was the reply for me about the light engine? I was thinking of taking it to a regular repair shop but is it worth it?
if the problem is the light engine NO!!!
Larry D.
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