Larry was kind enough to provide me with some info a while back and I will gladly share it with anyone else who might need it. Larry if you are out there I hope you are well. [email protected]
"Snipeorod" not sure what the status is of Larry. I am new to the board and have a WD-62825 model. I was waiting to hear from Larry on sending me the information on fixing the BGLOD. If you have the information, I would appriciate the information. I am egar to begin my repair, but really do not know where to start. I downloaded the repair manual and am just beginning to decipher it. Thanks again.
hay there I was trying to get a schematic myself all i can do for you is give you the locations of the problem caps they are AS FOLLOWS POWER BD C9A37 C9A38 C9A52 C9A61 C9A62 FMT PWB C8F19 C8F21 C8F22 C8F27 DM BD C8IA2 C8IA3 C8IB3 C8IB4 HOPE THIS HELPS
Hey, I'm working my Mit 62825 with BGLOD and most of the instructions are available on the Resources tab - manuals and some repair instructions. Posted by Larry, awesome dude to be helping us all. There are some block diagrams as RobinH stated, but i've not seen good schematics (RobinH?). I've replaced problem caps on all boards, but on power up now have bad exhaust fan blinking light error. replaced fan but still have same error. Posted on another thread but not heard from the chief guru Larry. I did receive suggestion to check height of caps and possible shorting but the caps i used were same height as orginal. So i now have the red blinking light of death. I'm planning on using RobinH volt checks to see if pwr board is bad. Any suggestions are appreciated. If someone has schematics, I appreciate a email. [email protected]. Thanks - especially to Larry, hope he is well. Mike
I have a huge volume of data on this, and am willing to share Larry's sage advice, along with his suggestions to me, and my suggestions to you. The one thing I would ask is that if you do find this information helpful please donate to Larry's paypal account. I don't believe he's been feeling too well or he'd have been on here. He's been an outstanding source of information, and extremely helpful. I don't want a penny for my help, but I know Larry could use all the help we can give him.
If you are okay with this, then please send me an email to (remove the spaces!) Shitsubishi at hugginsnet.com... again, remove the spaces and replace at with @. I will try to help you as best I can. I have also shot a still photo journal of the work I did, which may very well help some of you. I literally photographed EVERY cable connection that I had to go through, and have some pointers and tips on the removal of the chassis that may make it a bit easier for you to do the same.
Anyway, I look forward to hearing from you. For those interested, I will provide you Larry's paypal account information. I suggest a $25 donation for this very helpful information as it's literally saving you hundreds of dollars.
Again, Shitsubishi at hugginsnet.com minus spaces and @ for at.
Also, for those of you who do receive this information - what I provide, as in from me, not Larry's input, is directly related to the WD-62825 WITH the built in DVR and front panel connections. So don't panic if your setup varies slightly from what you get from me.
Another item to note for those of you using my PWB board data from above - BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THE TESTS! I can not be responsible for any accidents, damage, maiming, death or the intoxication of a minor if you use this information!
I will write up a small procedure for completing these tests., they are quite simple but there are some warnings to make you aware of They are not difficult, but the setup can prove to be very dangerous. DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT have small children around you when performing these tests, and DO NOT do this completely on your own. As in make sure someone is there or you've at least told someone what you're doing and tell them you'll call them back in an hour. This way, should something, G-d forbid, happen to you at least you won't be lying on the carpet for day on end, stinking up the environment...lol... actually I am just very sensitive to your safety, as well as mine, so I want to make sure if you do this, that you do the right thing!
WD-62825 Update
I repaired my WD-62825 over a year ago by installed a simple On/Off switch.
The Radio Shack capacitors that i installed have not given me any problems.
We watch the set every night with no issues.
You can review my entries to this thread starting on page 5
All i can suggest is to do the test with the connector before disassembling the chassis. You will need to remove the covers from the chassis to do the test.
I have posted other suggestion for these sets that should help.
Again these sets do not like to lose power.
Still lucky after 1 year
I have helped others on this forum via e-mail or the message board
your choice
ED maybe you are on to something because after I replaced the caps, I plug it in and got pictures, once I disconnect the set, button everything together and put it back on to the stand, the blinking lights go back. So I take it apart again look around putting plastic between the board to make sure they don't make contact by accident, and then plug the set back on afterward, I get pictures. Button every back and plug back in and BAM the green light come back ... !@#$#$%#$%$ very frustrating. I am ready to take the TV to the top of my roof and throw it down into the street ... LOL
I'll try the switch and will let you know if it works. Thanks for the tip
RobinH: Thanks for posting that picture. It will be a great help when taking mine apart.
I would suggest to ANYONE taking their units apart to invest in a good capacitor tester or become friends with someone you can borrow one from. I bought a LC102 capacitor tester (wasn't cheap) to test capacitors. (Not just for this television, but other electronics as well.) I had taken the Television apart once before and wish I had this tester. I only saw ONE bad capacitor (visual) in the power supply unit. Of course when I replace it and put the television all back together, it worked! (UNTIL POWER WENT OFF AGAIN..)
This time when I take it apart I will be testing all the caps I can.. I will try to make pictures like RobinH did. Or like Larry's info.
Hope this piece of info helped anyone attempting to do this... BAD CAPACITORS are one of the BIGGEST things I have seen in almost any BAD electronic circuit.
I have a WD-62825 that recently started with the Blinking Green light. I have swapped out 8 16V 1000uf capacitors on the the DMD and the FMT boards. The capacitors I swapped were canistor type, radial mount capacitors. (THROUGH HOLE)This has been to no avail. A TV Repair type fellow unpluged the FMT and the card reader from inputting to the TV and stated that it was definately the DMD board and mentioned that there were 12 or 18 capacitors and said they were SURFACE mount capacitors. If someone could send me some images of which capacitors need to be swapped and any other technical data that is available I would greatly appreciate it. I have already downloaded the service manual which is not useful once you get past the most basic repair stage. My email address is [email protected] Thank you in advance.
I replaced several caps on my boards but when I powered the set up the BGLOD was still there. I then unplugged the FC connector and powered the set up again. This time the BGLOD was gone. I installed a switch inline with the power wire on the FC connector. The TV worked great for a week and then the BGLOD came back. I will be taking the set apart again in a week or so to troubleshoot a little more. I did not replace every cap on my list so I might do that this time. Hopefully it is just a loose connection or something in the FC connector. I know the switch has worked for many but others have not had the same luck with it.
Thanks to all as I am in remission with my cancer. as it turns out The docs, finally as far as I am told, got all of the brain tumor. turns out was the size of a softball and right now I am lucky to still be around and lucky to be walking and even thinking. only had to have part of my brain removed to get the entire tumor. i will be on medications for life as daily headaches and seizures at least three times a month. Man I hate those when they com as everyone kills me a little more. oh well god must have a lot more for me to do in this world as my surgeon is amazed I came out of the operation with very little brain damage.With the grace of god I will be around another several years. life is what you make it I am learning!!!
peace and love to all!!
Larry D.
PS thanks to all who have sent their blessings.
Hi Larry, glad to see you join us, you do have more than your share of life's challenges, our prayers are with you. I do admire your spirit and perserverance. Also, thanks very much for all your help on techlore, it's very much appreciated. I think i speak for all who you have shared your expertise with. My sincere thanks, Mike
Hey Larry,
Although I don't know you as well as some members you have assisted on this board, I thought I would write a small note and say I'm glad to hear you are doing well and pray you will be feeling better soon. I had a family member who passed away due to a brain tumor and I know how his life had changed dramaticly towards his end and the effects it had on the rest of the family members. Keep your loved ones close and don't sweat the small stuff. Wishing you well.
RobinH
There is a 4 pin connector that plugs in on top of the FM board (covers have to be removed from the chassis to gain access). The switch is used to make and brake power on the orange wire. With the switch in the brake position plug the set into 120V power and wait 1 min. or so for reset (NO flashing green LED).
Now change the the switch to the make position and turn the set ON. The test is the same but you are carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the 4 pin connector.
Do you know what voltage and current is on that line? Guess I can look that up in the circuit diagrams...doh... just curious what I'm passing through that switch. Got plenty of chassis mount switches I could install on the back of the set to do the reset from there so I don't have to open the case every time. Sounds like an interesting method to get around this. I'll try the test tonight and if that works I'm going to be a happy camper! Just had both washer and dryer go out within two days of each other!!! Damned haunted house!
DLP, washer, dryer, Things do run in threes, my Mit DLP BGLOD, clutch goes in wife's car and now my daughter calls to say she dropped her ipod, but caught it by the ear plug cord, but swung it into her laptop screen which cracked. Hope luck only runs in threes. Robin, you do sound busy, no rush, but wanted to make sure you got my email re info on board testing. Thanks to all, Mike [email protected] m
RobinH,
My power board is acting like yours. The power is good everywhere but the top right hand corner. Did you find anything out about what the cause was? Also, to do these tests, does the unit need to be in the tv set hooked up or can you do it on a bench disconnected from the TV? I notice it says it has power when switched. IF it's not in the TV how do you get to switched power. Thanks
Yes the chassis needs to be completly installed. The test points for switched power will not have power until the set has reset (no flashing green LED) and has been turned on. I did the voltage checks after i was able to turn the set on and all checked good.
Thanks.. Another question.. What is the chance that a capacitor is bad that is not bulged. I have not replaced any capacitors as they don't show signs of bulging. Can a capacitor be checked with a volt meter or is a capacitor tester required. I have the power unit installed,(well as far as I can and still be able to get to test points and the system will not reset. Any thoughts or things I could try?
The chassis does not need to be inside the set but it does need to have everything connected. With everything connected on the chassis as well as making sure the filter cover is installed you should be able to power the set up. You will not have all of the voltages until the green light goes away. Disconnect the FC Connector to get rid of the BGLOD and then turn the set on. You can then check for the rest of the voltages. The manual tells you which voltages should be present at each particular phase of the boot up sequence.
Even if a capacitor is NOT buldged, it can be bad. There are several specs that a capacitor needs to be a capacitor. ESR, leakage, absorption and the value are all factors of a capacitor. I found MANY bad capacitors that are not buldged. Sometimes they can be SHORTED, OPEN, or can leak and still not be buldged. For example, I had an OLD scanner that was not working properly at all. I had to replace about 15 capacitors that had dried up. No buldging at all.
I had left another post about a CAPACITOR tester by SENCORE (LC102). A plain volt meter can not test a capacitor properly. You MIGHT be able to test the capacitance if it has that function. But this will not test ESR, absorption and leakage.
Even if a capacitor is NOT buldged, it can be bad. There are several specs that a capacitor needs to be a capacitor. ESR, leakage, absorption and the value are all factors of a capacitor. I found MANY bad capacitors that are not buldged. Sometimes they can be SHORTED, OPEN, or can leak and still not be buldged. For example, I had an OLD scanner that was not working properly at all. I had to replace about 15 capacitors that had dried up. No buldging at all.
A CAPACITOR tester by SENCORE (LC102) is a great tool to test capacitors (A little pricey if you can find one...) A plain volt meter can not test a capacitor properly. You MIGHT be able to test the capacitance if it has that function. But this will not test ESR, absorption and leakage.
snipeorod said:
The chassis does not need to be inside the set but it does need to have everything connected. With everything connected on the chassis as well as making sure the filter cover is installed you should be able to power the set up. You will not have all of the voltages until the green light goes away. Disconnect the FC Connector to get rid of the BGLOD and then turn the set on. You can then check for the rest of the voltages. The manual tells you which voltages should be present at each particular phase of the boot up sequence.
Ah, okay, I did not try that! Thanks!! I'm hopeful, even though I went and bought a Samsung Plasma 50" today...4 HDMI inputs so now I can use my blueray disc player...
Larry was kind enough to provide me with some info a while back and I will gladly share it with anyone else who might need it. Larry if you are out there I hope you are well. [email protected]
"Snipeorod" not sure what the status is of Larry. I am new to the board and have a WD-62825 model. I was waiting to hear from Larry on sending me the information on fixing the BGLOD. If you have the information, I would appriciate the information. I am egar to begin my repair, but really do not know where to start. I downloaded the repair manual and am just beginning to decipher it. Thanks again.
[email protected]
hay there I was trying to get a schematic myself all i can do for you is give you the locations of the problem caps they are AS FOLLOWS POWER BD C9A37 C9A38 C9A52 C9A61 C9A62 FMT PWB C8F19 C8F21 C8F22 C8F27 DM BD C8IA2 C8IA3 C8IB3 C8IB4 HOPE THIS HELPS
Hey, I'm working my Mit 62825 with BGLOD and most of the instructions are available on the Resources tab - manuals and some repair instructions. Posted by Larry, awesome dude to be helping us all. There are some block diagrams as RobinH stated, but i've not seen good schematics (RobinH?). I've replaced problem caps on all boards, but on power up now have bad exhaust fan blinking light error. replaced fan but still have same error. Posted on another thread but not heard from the chief guru Larry. I did receive suggestion to check height of caps and possible shorting but the caps i used were same height as orginal. So i now have the red blinking light of death. I'm planning on using RobinH volt checks to see if pwr board is bad. Any suggestions are appreciated. If someone has schematics, I appreciate a email. [email protected]. Thanks - especially to Larry, hope he is well. Mike
I have a huge volume of data on this, and am willing to share Larry's sage advice, along with his suggestions to me, and my suggestions to you. The one thing I would ask is that if you do find this information helpful please donate to Larry's paypal account. I don't believe he's been feeling too well or he'd have been on here. He's been an outstanding source of information, and extremely helpful. I don't want a penny for my help, but I know Larry could use all the help we can give him.
If you are okay with this, then please send me an email to (remove the spaces!) Shitsubishi at hugginsnet.com... again, remove the spaces and replace at with @. I will try to help you as best I can. I have also shot a still photo journal of the work I did, which may very well help some of you. I literally photographed EVERY cable connection that I had to go through, and have some pointers and tips on the removal of the chassis that may make it a bit easier for you to do the same.
Anyway, I look forward to hearing from you. For those interested, I will provide you Larry's paypal account information. I suggest a $25 donation for this very helpful information as it's literally saving you hundreds of dollars.
Again, Shitsubishi at hugginsnet.com minus spaces and @ for at.
Regards,
RobinH
Also, for those of you who do receive this information - what I provide, as in from me, not Larry's input, is directly related to the WD-62825 WITH the built in DVR and front panel connections. So don't panic if your setup varies slightly from what you get from me.
Another item to note for those of you using my PWB board data from above - BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THE TESTS! I can not be responsible for any accidents, damage, maiming, death or the intoxication of a minor if you use this information!
I will write up a small procedure for completing these tests., they are quite simple but there are some warnings to make you aware of They are not difficult, but the setup can prove to be very dangerous. DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT have small children around you when performing these tests, and DO NOT do this completely on your own. As in make sure someone is there or you've at least told someone what you're doing and tell them you'll call them back in an hour. This way, should something, G-d forbid, happen to you at least you won't be lying on the carpet for day on end, stinking up the environment...lol... actually I am just very sensitive to your safety, as well as mine, so I want to make sure if you do this, that you do the right thing!
WD-62825 Update
I repaired my WD-62825 over a year ago by installed a simple On/Off switch.
The Radio Shack capacitors that i installed have not given me any problems.
We watch the set every night with no issues.
You can review my entries to this thread starting on page 5
All i can suggest is to do the test with the connector before disassembling the chassis. You will need to remove the covers from the chassis to do the test.
I have posted other suggestion for these sets that should help.
Again these sets do not like to lose power.
Still lucky after 1 year
I have helped others on this forum via e-mail or the message board
your choice
ED maybe you are on to something because after I replaced the caps, I plug it in and got pictures, once I disconnect the set, button everything together and put it back on to the stand, the blinking lights go back. So I take it apart again look around putting plastic between the board to make sure they don't make contact by accident, and then plug the set back on afterward, I get pictures. Button every back and plug back in and BAM the green light come back ... !@#$#$%#$%$ very frustrating. I am ready to take the TV to the top of my roof and throw it down into the street ... LOL
I'll try the switch and will let you know if it works. Thanks for the tip
ED where did you put the switch, as in what line are you switching? I'm wondering if that's not the problem with my set.
RobinH: Thanks for posting that picture. It will be a great help when taking mine apart.
I would suggest to ANYONE taking their units apart to invest in a good capacitor tester or become friends with someone you can borrow one from. I bought a LC102 capacitor tester (wasn't cheap) to test capacitors. (Not just for this television, but other electronics as well.) I had taken the Television apart once before and wish I had this tester. I only saw ONE bad capacitor (visual) in the power supply unit. Of course when I replace it and put the television all back together, it worked! (UNTIL POWER WENT OFF AGAIN..)
This time when I take it apart I will be testing all the caps I can.. I will try to make pictures like RobinH did. Or like Larry's info.
Hope this piece of info helped anyone attempting to do this... BAD CAPACITORS are one of the BIGGEST things I have seen in almost any BAD electronic circuit.
I have a WD-62825 that recently started with the Blinking Green light. I have swapped out 8 16V 1000uf capacitors on the the DMD and the FMT boards. The capacitors I swapped were canistor type, radial mount capacitors. (THROUGH HOLE)This has been to no avail. A TV Repair type fellow unpluged the FMT and the card reader from inputting to the TV and stated that it was definately the DMD board and mentioned that there were 12 or 18 capacitors and said they were SURFACE mount capacitors. If someone could send me some images of which capacitors need to be swapped and any other technical data that is available I would greatly appreciate it. I have already downloaded the service manual which is not useful once you get past the most basic repair stage. My email address is [email protected] Thank you in advance.
--Tom
I replaced several caps on my boards but when I powered the set up the BGLOD was still there. I then unplugged the FC connector and powered the set up again. This time the BGLOD was gone. I installed a switch inline with the power wire on the FC connector. The TV worked great for a week and then the BGLOD came back. I will be taking the set apart again in a week or so to troubleshoot a little more. I did not replace every cap on my list so I might do that this time. Hopefully it is just a loose connection or something in the FC connector. I know the switch has worked for many but others have not had the same luck with it.
Thanks to all as I am in remission with my cancer. as it turns out The docs, finally as far as I am told, got all of the brain tumor. turns out was the size of a softball and right now I am lucky to still be around and lucky to be walking and even thinking. only had to have part of my brain removed to get the entire tumor. i will be on medications for life as daily headaches and seizures at least three times a month. Man I hate those when they com as everyone kills me a little more. oh well god must have a lot more for me to do in this world as my surgeon is amazed I came out of the operation with very little brain damage.With the grace of god I will be around another several years. life is what you make it I am learning!!!
peace and love to all!!
Larry D.
PS thanks to all who have sent their blessings.
Hi Larry, glad to see you join us, you do have more than your share of life's challenges, our prayers are with you. I do admire your spirit and perserverance. Also, thanks very much for all your help on techlore, it's very much appreciated. I think i speak for all who you have shared your expertise with. My sincere thanks, Mike
Nice to see you on Larry. We are all wishing you well.
Hey Larry,
Although I don't know you as well as some members you have assisted on this board, I thought I would write a small note and say I'm glad to hear you are doing well and pray you will be feeling better soon. I had a family member who passed away due to a brain tumor and I know how his life had changed dramaticly towards his end and the effects it had on the rest of the family members. Keep your loved ones close and don't sweat the small stuff. Wishing you well.
Cuffs633
[email protected]
RobinH
There is a 4 pin connector that plugs in on top of the FM board (covers have to be removed from the chassis to gain access). The switch is used to make and brake power on the orange wire. With the switch in the brake position plug the set into 120V power and wait 1 min. or so for reset (NO flashing green LED).
Now change the the switch to the make position and turn the set ON. The test is the same but you are carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the 4 pin connector.
Do you know what voltage and current is on that line? Guess I can look that up in the circuit diagrams...doh... just curious what I'm passing through that switch. Got plenty of chassis mount switches I could install on the back of the set to do the reset from there so I don't have to open the case every time. Sounds like an interesting method to get around this. I'll try the test tonight and if that works I'm going to be a happy camper! Just had both washer and dryer go out within two days of each other!!! Damned haunted house!
Robin, if I remember correctly it is 6v to the FMT board. I installed the same switch. If you look at the diagram you can confirm this.
RobinH
Low voltage Low current 6V sounds right
DLP, washer, dryer, Things do run in threes, my Mit DLP BGLOD, clutch goes in wife's car and now my daughter calls to say she dropped her ipod, but caught it by the ear plug cord, but swung it into her laptop screen which cracked. Hope luck only runs in threes. Robin, you do sound busy, no rush, but wanted to make sure you got my email re info on board testing. Thanks to all, Mike [email protected] m
Hello Larry,
Exactly 4 years ago today, can't get rid of Mitsubishi 52825's
RobinH,
My power board is acting like yours. The power is good everywhere but the top right hand corner. Did you find anything out about what the cause was? Also, to do these tests, does the unit need to be in the tv set hooked up or can you do it on a bench disconnected from the TV? I notice it says it has power when switched. IF it's not in the TV how do you get to switched power. Thanks
tiger-bear
Yes the chassis needs to be completly installed. The test points for switched power will not have power until the set has reset (no flashing green LED) and has been turned on. I did the voltage checks after i was able to turn the set on and all checked good.
Thanks.. Another question.. What is the chance that a capacitor is bad that is not bulged. I have not replaced any capacitors as they don't show signs of bulging. Can a capacitor be checked with a volt meter or is a capacitor tester required. I have the power unit installed,(well as far as I can and still be able to get to test points and the system will not reset. Any thoughts or things I could try?
The chassis does not need to be inside the set but it does need to have everything connected. With everything connected on the chassis as well as making sure the filter cover is installed you should be able to power the set up. You will not have all of the voltages until the green light goes away. Disconnect the FC Connector to get rid of the BGLOD and then turn the set on. You can then check for the rest of the voltages. The manual tells you which voltages should be present at each particular phase of the boot up sequence.
Even if a capacitor is NOT buldged, it can be bad. There are several specs that a capacitor needs to be a capacitor. ESR, leakage, absorption and the value are all factors of a capacitor. I found MANY bad capacitors that are not buldged. Sometimes they can be SHORTED, OPEN, or can leak and still not be buldged. For example, I had an OLD scanner that was not working properly at all. I had to replace about 15 capacitors that had dried up. No buldging at all.
I had left another post about a CAPACITOR tester by SENCORE (LC102). A plain volt meter can not test a capacitor properly. You MIGHT be able to test the capacitance if it has that function. But this will not test ESR, absorption and leakage.
Even if a capacitor is NOT buldged, it can be bad. There are several specs that a capacitor needs to be a capacitor. ESR, leakage, absorption and the value are all factors of a capacitor. I found MANY bad capacitors that are not buldged. Sometimes they can be SHORTED, OPEN, or can leak and still not be buldged. For example, I had an OLD scanner that was not working properly at all. I had to replace about 15 capacitors that had dried up. No buldging at all.
A CAPACITOR tester by SENCORE (LC102) is a great tool to test capacitors (A little pricey if you can find one...) A plain volt meter can not test a capacitor properly. You MIGHT be able to test the capacitance if it has that function. But this will not test ESR, absorption and leakage.
Ah, okay, I did not try that! Thanks!! I'm hopeful, even though I went and bought a Samsung Plasma 50" today...4 HDMI inputs so now I can use my blueray disc player...
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