Jeff, your m# 42hdx82 is on the list, I dont know if this link will work here, but if you serch partsore.com for part # 23148024 open the top one and the M# link is under the add to cart botton.
The hyper PCB is paralell to and directly behind the TV input unit
jeffbrad, I believe the part # you need is 23148024, at partstore.com. As the guys previously stated. This part is also known as a Hyper Module, or Scan Converter Module. Any of these names with this part # is the one you need.
Don & Mr. Donald, thanks so much for replying. I had gone ahead and ordered the (wrong) part number.
Thanks to you guys I've canceled (am trying to anyway) that part and I have ordered the correct one. I really appreciate your help.
I may even have been looking at the wrong board in the tv. I was looking at shielded board/card behind the input unit to the left. There is another shielded board/card to the right. Both are perpendicular to and at the ends of the input unit. I didn't see a shielded board/card parallel to the input unit but that may be because I only pulled the main board out about six inches (after taking all the cables out of the cable connectors to make some slack). I didn't remove the input unit or that black plastic bracket that goes over the top of the input unit (and the two shielded cards). I think I saw something parallel to the input unit but couldn't get a good look and didn't want to take any more apart until it was time to replace the part.
You have no idea how glad I am to hear from you. Thanks very much.
Now it's just wait and see if the correct part number is available (the wrong one was back ordered... I hope that means I can cancel that order...)
jeffbrad, the hyper board or scan converter module is directly under the black plastic guard that goes over the top of it. Take your time when taking it apart, you have all the time in the world. I'm sure you can cancel that order and re-order the right board. Good luck and let us know your progres.
UPDATE - I have a 42H82 with extremely distorted picture when the TV is first turned on. I ordered the CAPS from MCM and found a local TV repairman who agreed to come to my house and replace the caps for $60.
I am very pleased to report the job is done and the problem successfully fixed by replacing these tiny caps.
Amazingly enough, this repairman took only 2 short hours to do the job from start to finish in my home. He definitely knew his stuff....so a generous tip was called for.
For those in Southern Cal experiencing the same problems with their Toshiba TVs, may I recommend Atlantic TV Service at 626-281-7270. He charges only $60 for labor.
I received the correct part number, installed it and "nice picture!"... again. Thanks very very much!
Since I wasn't replacing surface mount capacitors, I just removed the Hyper Module under that black plastic bracket (directly behind and parallel to the input unit), plugged in the new one and that was that.
The most difficult part was removing the solder from the four tabs on the heat shield that go through the main circuit board. I used some copper wire braid (desoldering wick) that I picked up at Radioshack but my solder pencil might have been a little old or weak... took a long time to melt the solder on those tabs. I chose to try this without removing the main circuitboard from the TV. I just pulled wires out of the 'wire-holders' until I had enough slack to back the main board out enough to tilt it up 90 degrees. That gave me full access to the bottom of the circuit board to desolder & resolder those four tabs.
The tabs never became completely free of solder so the heat shield was difficult to remove. When I thought I removed enough solder from all four tabs, I used needle nose pliers to try and 'push' each tab through the circuit board. It took a few more tries with the solder pencil & wick but the heat shield eventually moved and then it was just a matter of laying the circuit board back down and gently lifting hyper module out from the top side of the circuit board.
All in all, it was about thirty minutes to open up the back of the set, remove the screws and unhook the wires from the wire holders. I did have to unplug one wire on the top of the input unit before I could move that black plastic bracket out of the way so that the Hyper Module could be lifted out.
Then it was about two hours of desoldering those four tabs. Okay, I was working on the floor and my eyes and back are not what they used to be. I took more than a few breaks.
Then about twenty minutes to put everything back together and start enjoying the picture again.
One more time... Thanks very very much. (now that I have an extra hyper module, I may just try replacing those surface capacitors for the next time...)
Mr. Donald said: jeffbrad, the hyper board or scan converter module is directly under the black plastic guard that goes over the top of it. Take your time when taking it apart, you have all the time in the world. I'm sure you can cancel that order and re-order the right board. Good luck and let us know your progres.
Hey guys, The set I am working on (42h83) was donated to our Church, I have been trying to repair it, I replaced the 10 @ 16 caps on the Hyper module, cured the Zig Zag, but still have a problem. Kinda like the image lags on a moving object. Mr Donald said it looks like a problem on the hyper mod still. So if anyone has a module they can part with, I would appreciate it. I can replace the caps. But dont want to spend the $160+ for a new board when it may be something else.
Char, double check all of the soldering you did, and make sure there are no solder bridges anywhere on the board. make sure you reinstall the shield also. Also there are a dozen capacitors that need to be replaced. I have seen some peeps change only a few or so and there are still problems. Also make sure you did not pull up any of the fine printed circuir board traces. Good Luck and let us know if this helps.
Hello, I love the fact where if you have a problem with something you can find the answer online.
This is a great thread going with allot of good info.
As you can probably guess I have a toshiba 42H83 with a problem. My red horizontal covergence will not move. The red vertical will move and green and blue will move in both directions. I had paid a $4. online fee for a diagnostic on my problem and received a reply. "Change the 10-16 surface mount caps on the hyper module. this should fix your problem.
So I did many searches and here I am. My guess is these caps are the same in this discussion.
I have had the tv apart and after reading this thread know how to remove the module. But with very little solder experiance I'm not sure I want to tackle this job. I would need to buy all the proper tools and if I take my time I'm confident I can do it. But is it worth my trouble?
I do have some electronic conections (friend) that works at a audio service shop that I know can change the caps with success.
Can my red horizonal movement be isolated to a certain cap?
I have called the local TV repair shops and two of the shops said they know exactly what it is and it will cost $200. to fix. My guess Is they will just replace the whole module.
I am sorry to burst your bubble my friend, but the hyper board does not drive the convergence. Your prblem is the convergence driiver IC's You will have to have those convergence IC's replaced. As I say to a lot of peeps here, if you have no electronic experience working on solid state printed circuit boards, please play it safe and have a pro or someone who knows about the TV set to assist you in this problem and repair. Good Luck, and please keep us informer of the progress of this repair.
Ok Iam going to try to replace the hyper moduel i had a tech from best buy come out and he comfermed what i had already thought it to be the hyper moduel (the scan conveter) he could not replace it he did not have the part i did find it online so he said i could do it my self my question is. is the four soder points on the cover just holding the cover on or is the cover part of the board i was also told that the board is held on by two clips and does the silver cover need to go back on does someone has a picture or two they could send me i have a 65 H 82 thanks for your help
mistjef, Do not try to unsolder the 4 spots on the cover. You dont take the cover off. The hyper module comes complete, the only spots you need to unsolder are the ones on the bottom of the main board, this module plugs into a plastic holder, that is where the two clips are. Once you free the module of solder, the module will come free of the board, as a whole unit. You unsolder the tabs that go through the main board, thats all you need to unsolder. Then plug your new board in, and resolder the new tabs in the same place as the old ones were.
Thank you it just made me nerves’ when you started talking about cracking the main board I do have some experience with electronics I just want to make sure I do this right. This is our main TV which still works and we watch nightly just a little annoying if I screw this up my wife will have my head but at the same time I don’t want to spend the 500 to 600 that the repair shops want knowing I can do this myself
mistjef, When you unsolder the tabs, check them to make sure they are straight, two of the tabs on mine, had a slight twist to them, I had to straighten them with needle-nose pliers, so they would slide through the main board. Take your time, and everything will be Ok. This is not a hard job. I had no expierence with PC boards, and I got mine done with no problems. So can you. Good Luck
Go to ptscorp.com and find the toll free number and call them ans see if they have any to sell or ask if they can repair and test your old one. Good Luck
Do you not read the rest of this forum man!? Go to ptscorp.com, get the phone number and see if they have a rebuilt board for you, or if you can simply ship them your board for an overhaul. It is not a lost cause man. They, in the past, do a pretty good job on some boards. Good luck! Let us know how this turns out for you.
Don, you also paid twice the amount that you could have had it rebuilt. But if that's OK with you, that's cool. Some do not want to wait. Glad you got one that was working, as those new ones only last a short time as well, as the caps can still get leaky and have a shorter life span, depending on how long it has been sitting on the shelf.
Yes I did Read ALL of the post there is a ton of good help here I am going to call ptscorp I was simply answering DonR's question I also just ordered the 10@16v. caps for the last chance fix just in case I will let you know how everything turns out my TV is not quite gone I figure I have about a month before it will be so bad I can not watch it I told my wife if I cant get a board by then I will try and replace the caps
I talked to the Department of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Electronic and Appliance Repair they told me about a law in California the Song-Beverly Consumer Act CIVIL CODE Civil Code Section 1792-1795.7 it States that
(b) Every manufacturer making an express warranty with respect to an electronic or appliance product described in subdivision (h), (i), (j), or (k) of Section 9801 of the Business and Professions Code, with a wholesale price to the retailer of one hundred dollars ($100) or more, shall make available to service and repair facilities sufficient service literature and functional parts to effect the repair of a product for at least seven years after the date a product model or type was manufactured, regardless of whether the seven-year period exceeds the warranty period for the product
SO Toshiba is in violation of this law in California and can be made to supply the part or replace the TV
I was told by Bureau that my fun begins With a letter to Toshiba Demanding a part or replacement TV They have 30 to make it good or we Sue
Good Luck on that law. It as been repealed for a couple of years now. there is a federal law that says they only have to have parts available now for three years, so a federal law over rides a state law. Sorry to burst your bubble. And also by the time you sue, you could have purchased five TV sets. Toshiba has a lot more money then most people.
Well to finally end the guessing on where the Hyper Board is I have posted a pic of my removed signal board. I have also taken the liberty of marking off other comonents on the signal board just FYI. I have also circled the sticker with the Hyper Board number on it MVPU14.
Ironically enough I took these pics when I removed my board for an STK (convergence amps) replacement 2 years ago.
My TV is still in the early stages (and will clear up after warmup) so I'm going to nip this one in the butt before the dielectric has dinner .
Well I guess that SMT soldering experience will finally pay off .
P.S. The picture below is very sharp however the site is cropping it making the text a bit smaller then I expected so if you want to see it larger save it to your computer and view it there.
I will take pics of the hyper board job sometime next week and post them here.
Well I contributed some info now its my turn to ask some questions .
I would prefer to have the parts on hand before beginning since I hate doing the same disassembly twice.
I read in a previous post that there are 100 uf caps on the board as well.
I know only the 10 uf caps need replacement but just out of curiosity did any of you see any signs that the 100 uf caps may fail just like the 10 uf caps did?
I have already ordered the 10 uf Nichicons from Mouser suggested a few pages back and have no intention of touching the 100 uf caps unless I have to.
But I've been doing repairs on electronics for a long time and I know sometimes things sneak up on you in the middle of a job and would like to have your opinions.
Great job with that picture post. This will for sure stop any confusion anyone has about working on this TV set. I have only replaced the 10 MFD capacitors but I have gotten a rebuilt hyper board, and the 100 mfd caps were replaced. Haven't done a lot of these so i could not tell you for sure . I have not had a recall on the 20 or so I have done.
MOtvGuy said: Wish I would've joined sooner, I could've saved you a bunch of money. They problem is the Hyperboard, or digital module. The actual problem with the board is a bunch of defective surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors that go bad. There are approximately a dozen on that board that can go bad. The board itself only has it's shield soldered to the main board, the actual board itself is a plug in. Extreme care must be taken after unsoldering the ground shield connections and then pulling up on the board, you can crack the main board if you don't remove it properly. We usually just remove the board, check all the capacitors and replace the bad ones and the set is fine. Those capacitors can be found on-line for around $1-2 apiece.
HELP! Can you tell me any more about the Caps? Are they marked with a polarity? I'm an ole timer that used to to a LOT of soldering, however I've developed the dreaded "old fart" tremor. But I'm gonna give it a go...... Any add'l info would be appreciated. Location of Module on Main board and so forth. Thanks much guys and God Bless....... wish me luck........ Rob
Jeff, your m# 42hdx82 is on the list, I dont know if this link will work here, but if you serch partsore.com for part # 23148024 open the top one and the M# link is under the add to cart botton.
The hyper PCB is paralell to and directly behind the TV input unit
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23148024/New.aspx
Don
jeffbrad, I believe the part # you need is 23148024, at partstore.com. As the guys previously stated. This part is also known as a Hyper Module, or Scan Converter Module. Any of these names with this part # is the one you need.
Don & Mr. Donald, thanks so much for replying. I had gone ahead and ordered the (wrong) part number.
Thanks to you guys I've canceled (am trying to anyway) that part and I have ordered the correct one. I really appreciate your help.
I may even have been looking at the wrong board in the tv. I was looking at shielded board/card behind the input unit to the left. There is another shielded board/card to the right. Both are perpendicular to and at the ends of the input unit. I didn't see a shielded board/card parallel to the input unit but that may be because I only pulled the main board out about six inches (after taking all the cables out of the cable connectors to make some slack). I didn't remove the input unit or that black plastic bracket that goes over the top of the input unit (and the two shielded cards). I think I saw something parallel to the input unit but couldn't get a good look and didn't want to take any more apart until it was time to replace the part.
You have no idea how glad I am to hear from you. Thanks very much.
Now it's just wait and see if the correct part number is available (the wrong one was back ordered... I hope that means I can cancel that order...)
jeffbrad, the hyper board or scan converter module is directly under the black plastic guard that goes over the top of it. Take your time when taking it apart, you have all the time in the world. I'm sure you can cancel that order and re-order the right board. Good luck and let us know your progres.
UPDATE - I have a 42H82 with extremely distorted picture when the TV is first turned on. I ordered the CAPS from MCM and found a local TV repairman who agreed to come to my house and replace the caps for $60.
I am very pleased to report the job is done and the problem successfully fixed by replacing these tiny caps.
Amazingly enough, this repairman took only 2 short hours to do the job from start to finish in my home. He definitely knew his stuff....so a generous tip was called for.
For those in Southern Cal experiencing the same problems with their Toshiba TVs, may I recommend Atlantic TV Service at 626-281-7270. He charges only $60 for labor.
Hey guys, The set I am working on (42h83) was donated to our Church, I have been trying to repair it, I replaced the 10 @ 16 caps on the Hyper module, cured the Zig Zag, but still have a problem. Kinda like the image lags on a moving object. Mr Donald said it looks like a problem on the hyper mod still. So if anyone has a module they can part with, I would appreciate it. I can replace the caps. But dont want to spend the $160+ for a new board when it may be something else.
Thanks Charlie
[email protected]
Awesome thread saved me a bunch!!
Char, double check all of the soldering you did, and make sure there are no solder bridges anywhere on the board. make sure you reinstall the shield also. Also there are a dozen capacitors that need to be replaced. I have seen some peeps change only a few or so and there are still problems. Also make sure you did not pull up any of the fine printed circuir board traces. Good Luck and let us know if this helps.
Hello, I love the fact where if you have a problem with something you can find the answer online.
This is a great thread going with allot of good info.
As you can probably guess I have a toshiba 42H83 with a problem. My red horizontal covergence will not move. The red vertical will move and green and blue will move in both directions. I had paid a $4. online fee for a diagnostic on my problem and received a reply. "Change the 10-16 surface mount caps on the hyper module. this should fix your problem.
So I did many searches and here I am. My guess is these caps are the same in this discussion.
I have had the tv apart and after reading this thread know how to remove the module. But with very little solder experiance I'm not sure I want to tackle this job. I would need to buy all the proper tools and if I take my time I'm confident I can do it. But is it worth my trouble?
I do have some electronic conections (friend) that works at a audio service shop that I know can change the caps with success.
Can my red horizonal movement be isolated to a certain cap?
I have called the local TV repair shops and two of the shops said they know exactly what it is and it will cost $200. to fix. My guess Is they will just replace the whole module.
I am sorry to burst your bubble my friend, but the hyper board does not drive the convergence. Your prblem is the convergence driiver IC's You will have to have those convergence IC's replaced. As I say to a lot of peeps here, if you have no electronic experience working on solid state printed circuit boards, please play it safe and have a pro or someone who knows about the TV set to assist you in this problem and repair. Good Luck, and please keep us informer of the progress of this repair.
Ok Iam going to try to replace the hyper moduel i had a tech from best buy come out and he comfermed what i had already thought it to be the hyper moduel (the scan conveter) he could not replace it he did not have the part i did find it online so he said i could do it my self my question is. is the four soder points on the cover just holding the cover on or is the cover part of the board i was also told that the board is held on by two clips and does the silver cover need to go back on does someone has a picture or two they could send me i have a 65 H 82 thanks for your help
mistjef, Do not try to unsolder the 4 spots on the cover. You dont take the cover off. The hyper module comes complete, the only spots you need to unsolder are the ones on the bottom of the main board, this module plugs into a plastic holder, that is where the two clips are. Once you free the module of solder, the module will come free of the board, as a whole unit. You unsolder the tabs that go through the main board, thats all you need to unsolder. Then plug your new board in, and resolder the new tabs in the same place as the old ones were.
Thank you it just made me nerves’ when you started talking about cracking the main board I do have some experience with electronics I just want to make sure I do this right. This is our main TV which still works and we watch nightly just a little annoying if I screw this up my wife will have my head but at the same time I don’t want to spend the 500 to 600 that the repair shops want knowing I can do this myself
mistjef, When you unsolder the tabs, check them to make sure they are straight, two of the tabs on mine, had a slight twist to them, I had to straighten them with needle-nose pliers, so they would slide through the main board. Take your time, and everything will be Ok. This is not a hard job. I had no expierence with PC boards, and I got mine done with no problems. So can you. Good Luck
thank you Mr. Donald my board should be here in 7 to 10 days i'll let you know how I do
my board order was cancelled
My order was cancelled out of stock it was from the parts store online and everywhere else I found is out of stock to any one have any suggestions?
Go to ptscorp.com and find the toll free number and call them ans see if they have any to sell or ask if they can repair and test your old one. Good Luck
was it cancelled or backordered? they were out of stock when I ordered mine so it went into backorder mode and I got it within a few days.
they cancelled it on aug 3 I called and they said they could not get anymore in
Do you not read the rest of this forum man!? Go to ptscorp.com, get the phone number and see if they have a rebuilt board for you, or if you can simply ship them your board for an overhaul. It is not a lost cause man. They, in the past, do a pretty good job on some boards. Good luck! Let us know how this turns out for you.
Don, you also paid twice the amount that you could have had it rebuilt. But if that's OK with you, that's cool. Some do not want to wait. Glad you got one that was working, as those new ones only last a short time as well, as the caps can still get leaky and have a shorter life span, depending on how long it has been sitting on the shelf.
Yes I did Read ALL of the post there is a ton of good help here I am going to call ptscorp I was simply answering DonR's question I also just ordered the 10@16v. caps for the last chance fix just in case I will let you know how everything turns out my TV is not quite gone I figure I have about a month before it will be so bad I can not watch it I told my wife if I cant get a board by then I will try and replace the caps
The longer you wait, the more of the chance that these silly little capacitors will leak onto the board and ruin it to a point of no repair!
Good News for pepole in California
I talked to the Department of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Electronic and Appliance Repair they told me about a law in California the Song-Beverly Consumer Act CIVIL CODE Civil Code Section 1792-1795.7 it States that
(b) Every manufacturer making an express warranty with respect to an electronic or appliance product described in subdivision (h), (i), (j), or (k) of Section 9801 of the Business and Professions Code, with a wholesale price to the retailer of one hundred dollars ($100) or more, shall make available to service and repair facilities sufficient service literature and functional parts to effect the repair of a product for at least seven years after the date a product model or type was manufactured, regardless of whether the seven-year period exceeds the warranty period for the product
SO Toshiba is in violation of this law in California and can be made to supply the part or replace the TV
I was told by Bureau that my fun begins With a letter to Toshiba Demanding a part or replacement TV They have 30 to make it good or we Sue
Good Luck on that law. It as been repealed for a couple of years now. there is a federal law that says they only have to have parts available now for three years, so a federal law over rides a state law. Sorry to burst your bubble. And also by the time you sue, you could have purchased five TV sets. Toshiba has a lot more money then most people.
Well to finally end the guessing on where the Hyper Board is I have posted a pic of my removed signal board. I have also taken the liberty of marking off other comonents on the signal board just FYI. I have also circled the sticker with the Hyper Board number on it MVPU14.
Ironically enough I took these pics when I removed my board for an STK (convergence amps) replacement 2 years ago.
My TV is still in the early stages (and will clear up after warmup) so I'm going to nip this one in the butt before the dielectric has dinner
.
Well I guess that SMT soldering experience will finally pay off
.
P.S. The picture below is very sharp however the site is cropping it making the text a bit smaller then I expected so if you want to see it larger save it to your computer and view it there.
I will take pics of the hyper board job sometime next week and post them here.
Well I contributed some info now its my turn to ask some questions
.
I would prefer to have the parts on hand before beginning since I hate doing the same disassembly twice.
I read in a previous post that there are 100 uf caps on the board as well.
I know only the 10 uf caps need replacement but just out of curiosity did any of you see any signs that the 100 uf caps may fail just like the 10 uf caps did?
I have already ordered the 10 uf Nichicons from Mouser suggested a few pages back and have no intention of touching the 100 uf caps unless I have to.
But I've been doing repairs on electronics for a long time and I know sometimes things sneak up on you in the middle of a job and would like to have your opinions.
Thanks
Great job with that picture post. This will for sure stop any confusion anyone has about working on this TV set. I have only replaced the 10 MFD capacitors but I have gotten a rebuilt hyper board, and the 100 mfd caps were replaced. Haven't done a lot of these so i could not tell you for sure . I have not had a recall on the 20 or so I have done.
HELP! Can you tell me any more about the Caps? Are they marked with a polarity? I'm an ole timer that used to to a LOT of soldering, however I've developed the dreaded "old fart" tremor. But I'm gonna give it a go...... Any add'l info would be appreciated. Location of Module on Main board and so forth. Thanks much guys and God Bless....... wish me luck........ Rob
Pages