RB24, I used 63/37 Rosin core solder, but you can use paste if you want too. You dont need the Toshiba number if you go to that site, it takes you right to the capacitors, all you have to do is put your order in. And get yourself a pair of tweesers, these caps are tiny. I also had to get a magnifying glass, cause my sight is not that great, and this is fine work.
mr donald I got the solder wick and paste all from the same place I got the caps mcm electronics. the same place as on page two when you click here. I think it is under desoldering tools. it works real good. looks like braded wire. RB24 I'll try to send them again Im not good at sending emails. sorry! and ya you can get solder from radio shack with the flux in it. but they dont carry the desolder wick. they have desolder sucker but you will find solder wick is much easyer to use. Im telling ya this job was not hard. just make sure you desolder every thing real good and be very carful removing things. I also got the desoldering tweesers but could only use them on some of the caps, the tips were to short to get into the thight areas maybe if I got longer tips it would have made the job even easyer. I'll have to look into that.
Guys, do you think a pair of hemostats would work better than the tweezers? Also, are you guys desoldering these caps from the top of the board or from the underneath side? Never done this before so I'm just asking.
rb24 I sent the pics again hope you get them. hay larry dillondo you know what may cause a mitsubishi AV-60609 picture to show nothing but snow, fuzzy picture. is it in the tuner?
RB24, Keep one thing in mind, you never touch the board with the soldering iron. You are there to melt the solder, not the board. Be very careful, cause you can destroy the board in a matter of seconds.
Shag, thanks for the pics. Looks a little scarey but I think I'll be okay. I got the caps and solder wick today. Just have to get up the nerve to start. One thing I want to be sure of and I'm sure that Larry Dillon will know. Is my model similar enough to you guys that the hyper board will be in the same location? I was looking at the pics that Shag sent me and it looks like the boards are directly behind each other? Also Shag, How long did it take you from start to finish? Just want to figure a time table just in case.
RB24 if your not sure man, You can do more damage then good. I would for sure have a schematic or at least a service manual, if you know how to read one. No insult intended my freind. I find that sometimes peeps bit off more then they can handle, and then gets in trouble.. Like i said if your unsure, do not take the chance.
RB24 said:
Shag, thanks for the pics. Looks a little scarey but I think I'll be okay. I got the caps and solder wick today. Just have to get up the nerve to start. One thing I want to be sure of and I'm sure that Larry Dillon will know. Is my model similar enough to you guys that the hyper board will be in the same location? I was looking at the pics that Shag sent me and it looks like the boards are directly behind each other? Also Shag, How long did it take you from start to finish? Just want to figure a time table just in case.
As I stated earlier in the thread. The hyper board is directly behind the AV input board (the one with all the jacks on it). The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain.
Once the board is out the shield is held on by 4 tabs that are soldered. Unsolder and you have complete access to the top of the board. Since these are surface mount caps you have no reason to need to get to the solder side of the board.
rb24. I'm not sure about your modle tv. but on my modle the hyper board is right behind the input board looking from the back of the tv, the one with the RCA,DVI, S-cable jacks is the input board. it took me around 3 hours but i had more time finding out how to change the surface mounted caps. larry dillon I think had some links on this forum on replaceing caps. I would find that info before you start. just remember what larry said "you can do more damage then good" just take your time what ever you do.
Shag, Larry, MOtvGuy, I appreciate you guys taking the time with all of my questions. I do have a service manual that I had downloaded earlier. I will be very careful. That's just how I am. I've worked with circuit boards before but not for quite a few years. And never with surface mounts (as you could tell by one of my earlier statements). I just wanted to get everything straight before I start. And trust me, if I'm unsure about which board, I won't touch it. I'll look for the thread on how to change surface mounts. Hopefully I'll find it. Thanks again...
I have one last question for MOtvGuy before I start. I've looked back again on this thread and these part numbers (hyper board, dig Conver board, whatever) that you guys are using, I can't find them on my parts list in my manual. Should this be the same on my model (53HX71)? Will there be a number on the board itself?
I just sent you a PM with my email addy. Can you send me those pix if you can? I'm gonna take my 57hx81 apart and see if I can replace the caps. If not, I'll just replace the board.
I'm lucky that my dad was an electrician (learned lots of stuff from him) and my father-in-law is a nuclear engineer. I figure we can't muck it up too bad, can we?
RB24 said:
I have one last question for MOtvGuy before I start. I've looked back again on this thread and these part numbers (hyper board, dig Conver board, whatever) that you guys are using, I can't find them on my parts list in my manual. Should this be the same on my model (53HX71)? Will there be a number on the board itself?
As I recall, the board isn't listed. If it was it would be either in the exploded views or under the PC board listings in the parts list or towards the tail end of the parts list under miscellaneous.
grizzly bear I sent you the pics, they are not that good but should show you where the board is and what it looks like. hope they help!!! and your father-in-law, if he didnt work on three mile island you should be ok.
RB24 said:
Is there just a board that you can replace for this problem or will it be several different components on different boards? Im experiencing the same type of problem but it goes away after about 15 minutes. It usually starts with the whole picture and slowly fades towards the top of the screen until it's gone. I would like to know if this is an easy fix such as replacing a circuit board.
Besides the zigzag picture being described the other biggie symptom of the hyperboard caps is a verticle distortion at the top of the screen that slowly goes away just as you described.
MOtvGuy, I'm sure that you've repaired a few of these. As I said befor, I just want to be sure. I haven't even look in the tv as of yet. IF you tell me it's directly behind the input jacks in the rear, then that's where I"ll look. Shagwire sent me some photos of the board but it looks like there is more than one that looks like it. I'm just afraid I'll pull the wrong part. You know what I mean?
There is the input jack board and the hyper board is directly behind it. There's a plastic brace piece you'll have to get out of the way that goes across the top of the hyperboard.
Thanks Shag. Those pix should do some fine. Just need to pick up the parts and set aside several hours to get through the project. I'll take some pix too and see if I can create a walkthrough for others... based on what I can tell, lots of people bought these TV's and are experiencing this problem!
I have been following this thread for a while as my picture gets worse. I'm ready to try changing these caps if you guys are willing to share some of those pictures!
I'm also willing to help with the walkthrough project as the ginea pig and will contribute my own pictures as well.
Just to make sure I'm on the right track I'd like to confirm that I've got the same issue that replacing these caps fixes, if you don't mind. The top half of my picture is fine, the bottom half has 'separated' with the blue seeming to shadow the picture a bit higher than everything else.
I've got a model 55HX70 with a TAC0066 chassis. Thanks for any help!
RB24, I used 63/37 Rosin core solder, but you can use paste if you want too. You dont need the Toshiba number if you go to that site, it takes you right to the capacitors, all you have to do is put your order in. And get yourself a pair of tweesers, these caps are tiny. I also had to get a magnifying glass, cause my sight is not that great, and this is fine work.
mr donald I got the solder wick and paste all from the same place I got the caps mcm electronics. the same place as on page two when you click here. I think it is under desoldering tools. it works real good. looks like braded wire. RB24 I'll try to send them again Im not good at sending emails. sorry! and ya you can get solder from radio shack with the flux in it. but they dont carry the desolder wick. they have desolder sucker but you will find solder wick is much easyer to use. Im telling ya this job was not hard. just make sure you desolder every thing real good and be very carful removing things. I also got the desoldering tweesers but could only use them on some of the caps, the tips were to short to get into the thight areas maybe if I got longer tips it would have made the job even easyer. I'll have to look into that.
also if you can take pictures as you go. I did but they didnt come out real good.
any one know how to get a hold of larry dillon
Guys, do you think a pair of hemostats would work better than the tweezers? Also, are you guys desoldering these caps from the top of the board or from the underneath side? Never done this before so I'm just asking.
The caps. are surface mount. So you must solder them from the same side of the board that they are mouted on.
RB24, they are called surface mounted capacitors for a reason. No my freind you only unsolder from the top where the capacitors are.
Padre we both answered at the same time but your beat me by seconds!
rb24 I sent the pics again hope you get them. hay larry dillon do you know what may cause a mitsubishi AV-60609 picture to show nothing but snow, fuzzy picture. is it in the tuner?
RB24, Keep one thing in mind, you never touch the board with the soldering iron. You are there to melt the solder, not the board. Be very careful, cause you can destroy the board in a matter of seconds.
Shagwire, most likly a tuner problem yes.
Shag, thanks for the pics. Looks a little scarey but I think I'll be okay. I got the caps and solder wick today. Just have to get up the nerve to start. One thing I want to be sure of and I'm sure that Larry Dillon will know. Is my model similar enough to you guys that the hyper board will be in the same location? I was looking at the pics that Shag sent me and it looks like the boards are directly behind each other? Also Shag, How long did it take you from start to finish? Just want to figure a time table just in case.
RB24 if your not sure man, You can do more damage then good. I would for sure have a schematic or at least a service manual, if you know how to read one. No insult intended my freind. I find that sometimes peeps bit off more then they can handle, and then gets in trouble.. Like i said if your unsure, do not take the chance.
As I stated earlier in the thread. The hyper board is directly behind the AV input board (the one with all the jacks on it). The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain.
Once the board is out the shield is held on by 4 tabs that are soldered. Unsolder and you have complete access to the top of the board. Since these are surface mount caps you have no reason to need to get to the solder side of the board.
rb24. I'm not sure about your modle tv. but on my modle the hyper board is right behind the input board looking from the back of the tv, the one with the RCA,DVI, S-cable jacks is the input board. it took me around 3 hours but i had more time finding out how to change the surface mounted caps. larry dillon I think had some links on this forum on replaceing caps. I would find that info before you start. just remember what larry said "you can do more damage then good" just take your time what ever you do.
Shag, Larry, MOtvGuy, I appreciate you guys taking the time with all of my questions. I do have a service manual that I had downloaded earlier. I will be very careful. That's just how I am. I've worked with circuit boards before but not for quite a few years. And never with surface mounts (as you could tell by one of my earlier statements). I just wanted to get everything straight before I start. And trust me, if I'm unsure about which board, I won't touch it. I'll look for the thread on how to change surface mounts. Hopefully I'll find it. Thanks again...
About the link for replacing the surface mount caps, can somegive that to me also?
Try this http://metcal.okinternational.com/tips/rework1.html or this one http://www.iaea.org/programmes/naal/pci/pages/smdman.pdf
I have one last question for MOtvGuy before I start. I've looked back again on this thread and these part numbers (hyper board, dig Conver board, whatever) that you guys are using, I can't find them on my parts list in my manual. Should this be the same on my model (53HX71)? Will there be a number on the board itself?
My manual for my 42H83 does not show the board also. Must be something that Toshiba left out of the manuals.
Shag,
I just sent you a PM with my email addy. Can you send me those pix if you can? I'm gonna take my 57hx81 apart and see if I can replace the caps. If not, I'll just replace the board.
I'm lucky that my dad was an electrician (learned lots of stuff from him) and my father-in-law is a nuclear engineer. I figure we can't muck it up too bad, can we?
:)
Griz
As I recall, the board isn't listed. If it was it would be either in the exploded views or under the PC board listings in the parts list or towards the tail end of the parts list under miscellaneous.
grizzly bear I sent you the pics, they are not that good but should show you where the board is and what it looks like. hope they help!!! and your father-in-law, if he didnt work on three mile island you should be ok.
Besides the zigzag picture being described the other biggie symptom of the hyperboard caps is a verticle distortion at the top of the screen that slowly goes away just as you described.
MOtvGuy, I'm sure that you've repaired a few of these. As I said befor, I just want to be sure. I haven't even look in the tv as of yet. IF you tell me it's directly behind the input jacks in the rear, then that's where I"ll look. Shagwire sent me some photos of the board but it looks like there is more than one that looks like it. I'm just afraid I'll pull the wrong part. You know what I mean?
There is the input jack board and the hyper board is directly behind it. There's a plastic brace piece you'll have to get out of the way that goes across the top of the hyperboard.
Thanks Shag. Those pix should do some fine. Just need to pick up the parts and set aside several hours to get through the project. I'll take some pix too and see if I can create a walkthrough for others... based on what I can tell, lots of people bought these TV's and are experiencing this problem!
grizzly that would be great. ya I did a little tuning and my picture is better then its ever been I'm glad I fixed its a good tv.
Greetings,
I have been following this thread for a while as my picture gets worse. I'm ready to try changing these caps if you guys are willing to share some of those pictures!
I'm also willing to help with the walkthrough project as the ginea pig and will contribute my own pictures as well.
Just to make sure I'm on the right track I'd like to confirm that I've got the same issue that replacing these caps fixes, if you don't mind. The top half of my picture is fine, the bottom half has 'separated' with the blue seeming to shadow the picture a bit higher than everything else.
I've got a model 55HX70 with a TAC0066 chassis. Thanks for any help!
Im not sure you have the same problem my freind.
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