Toshiba, Model4283, picture is zig-zag.

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shagwire
i'll get you the number and

i'll get you the number and the name of the girl I talked to she was a lot of help. I have the info. at home and i'm at work so it wont be until late tonight or wed.

shagwire
hay mr donald  I'm still

hay mr donald  I'm still looking for the name and number for toshiba. but if you have the hyper module out you can send it to pts electronics they will repair it for $125.00 in about 5 to7 business days or, they have one in stock that still needs to be repaired but can have it done in 5 to 7 days for $190.00. " You have to send your core hyper module in for the $190.00 repair unit or there is a $60.00 fee. so i think the part is $130.oo. allso check fox international.com.

shagwire
dose anyone know the part

dose anyone know the part number for th caps 10muf 16v or can you use any cap?

Larry Dillon
They are surface mounted caps

They are surface mounted caps.  They are located Here  Good Luck

shagwire
larry dillon if this is

larry dillon if this is correct the the hyper board i'm looking for is the silver box right behind the input board with the cooling ports is that correct? and thanks for the info!!

Larry Dillon
Im really not sure my friend,

Im really not sure my friend, as its been awhile since I have seen this set.  Im sorry.  But I have replace these caps and all was well.  And Your welcome for the Info.

Padre
shagwire said:larry dillon if

shagwire said:larry dillon if this is correct the the hyper board i'm looking for is the silver box right behind the input board with the cooling ports is that correct? and thanks for the info!!

Based on the information we recieved on which caps. to replace and my tearing the set apart. Yes, the 10uF@16v caps we need to replace are located on the shielded board found directly behind the input board.

 

 

shagwire
thanks!!  I just took my set

thanks!!  I just took my set apart. I got the hyper module out, and got to the caps. it dosn't look to bad to replace them. You do need a small tip iron, it is pretty tight to get to some of the caps. Ive done some work like this in the past but never surface mounted cap. is there any thing to look out for or tips I should know? can i do one side of the cap at a time or do i need a iron tip made for the caps? thanks again for everyone's help. Like mr. donald said  "I refuse to throw this tv out"

shagwire
Mr. donald I found the

Mr. donald I found the toshiba number but I don't have the name of the person who helped me. I'll try to get more info on monday. also I think it was national parts depot that had the part. 1(800)457-7777

shagwire
hay padre that board part

hay padre that board part #PD0638F  dose not have any 10uf 16v caps on it. and it is on the left of the shielded box directly behind the input board. now the board directly behind the input board is part # PD0637 (C or D) i'm not sure what letter.I think (c) ,and that has the suface mounted caps on it. 

Padre
The board directly behind the

The board directly behind the input board is PD0637 and it has the surface mounted 10uF @ 16v caps. that were recommended to be replaced.

Mr. Donald
Hey Shagwire, not to worry

Hey Shagwire, not to worry about that info,Im not going that route anyway/ I am going to order some 16v 10uf capacitors and replace them myself. I still have that complete board coming, so if I dont screw up, I will have a spare. Oh well. I still havent taken my tv apart yet, but I am going to this weekend. Let me know how it goes Shag, and what to look out for.

Larry Dillon
Its MCM.com and do a search

Its MCM.com and do a search for surface mount capacitors.

shagwire
ya the sheilded box behind

ya the sheilded box behind the input board. it also has a sticker on the top of it with the p/n mvpu14 this is found @ partsstore.com Qyt 1  $165.00, it is the same p/n 23148024. mr. donald I just need to get some caps so it may be a week or so before I know any thing. thanks larry

RB24
Guys, I'm sure one of you

Guys, I'm sure one of you have a digital camera.  Maybe once the repairs are made, you could create a instruction document (with pics) to help the rest of us out?  My model number is :53HX71.  I don't have a repair manual to look up the part number yet so I was hoping you guys could help with that also.  I know I'm asking a lot but I really would like to repair this myself with as little money as possible.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

ed05
so I've been working on this

so I've been working on this project for a few days now, still trying to get the shield off, with a friends help managed to put a little crack in the board the hyper module is connected to.  Theres a good chance the crack doesn't touch anything important, but I was wondering still, just in case, if anyone knew what the part number for that is, incase I need to order a new one.

Mr. Donald
vineelee- If you look on the

vineelee- If you look on the board on the right hand corner, looking at it from the rear, right where the Hyper Module sits, you will see the numbers, like mine is PD 0639, that is called the signal board. I dont know what chassis # you have or what TV you have, anyway go to any parts store, and tell them your number and they will fix you up. I would replace it if it was me. A crack is a crack, and I wouldnt take the chance. The two little tabs on top of the shield have to be bent up, and the two bottom tabs have solder on them. At least on mine they do. Not easy to get off. My chassis is a TAC 0359. Hope this helps you.

RB24
 

 

I just downloaded the service manual.  where exactly is this board located again?

shagwire
the hyper module board on my

the hyper module board on my tv is right infront of the input board looking at the tv from behind. It has vent holes drilled into the shield. you can look through the holes and see the 10uf 16v caps there is 12 of them. also it is the biggest sheilded board on that side. I'll try to get some pics of my tv fri. for you. go to page two of this forum and click on here for a pic of the caps

RB24
shagwire

shagwire

Is it dificult to get to the board assembly?  I haven't begun as of yet to tackle this project.  I want to get all of my ducks in a row first.  First of all, I need to know who out there has a model similar to mine.  According to the manual, my model (53HX71) has the same chassis as model 50H81.  There are varying part numbers for each model.  There is a part number in the manual that reads: Next Hyper Board - PD0264.  Is the part number actuallly imprinted on the board?  I know I'm asking a lot of questions from you guys but I'm kind of new at this.  I would welcome some pictures from someone whom has completed one of these repairs, also with some step by step instructions.

shagwire
I just replace the 10uf caps

I just replace the 10uf caps and the zig zags are gone. it was not that hard to replace the caps, just take your time. also you dont need alot of solder when you put the new caps on. all you need is a soldering gun with a long tip. some 63/37 solder and flux paste rosin. I think the flux cut the heat time to melt the solder in half. whitch from what I hear you dont want to heat the caps for more then three seconds. I used tenma solder wick to suck up the old solder, it worked alsome when removing the hyper board. and a good pair of tweezers helps when removing and replacing the caps. RB24. no it is not hard to get to the board. there is 6 or 7 screws holding the board in and 6 or 7 holding the input board backing on. you have to pull 12 or so plugs make sure you mark them. when you get the mother board out. use the tenma suck wick the break free the hyper board. there are two tabes on the mother board that hold the plug of the hyper board in place, you have to pull them back then you can pull it out, I have some pics but I need to find out how to get them on line so you can see them. 

shagwire
RB24 if you want just give me

RB24 if you want just give me your emial and I'll send you the pics I have

RB24
shagwire, I sent it to you. 

shagwire, I sent it to you.  Thanks a bunch.

shagwire
larry dillon I have a

larry dillon I have a mitsibishi vs-60609 that  has a fuzzy picture all the time. do you know any thing about that tv or where I may start looking. And thanks alot larry and donald for your info. my tv works great now. like I said I dont think I would have fixed it with out your input

shagwire
RB24. I sent the pics they

RB24. I sent the pics they are not the best but all I got. the others didnt come out well.

Mr. Donald
shagwire, I'm sure glad

shagwire, I'm sure glad things turned out good for you. I know this site sure helps. I'm not even sure how I stumbled on this site, but sure glad I did. There is a lot of good info here. I hope we hear back from everbody else who is doing the same job. By the way, what is a tenma solder wick?

RB24
shagwire, I have the same

shagwire, I have the same question.  What exactly is a tenma solder wick?  And, I've gone to my e-mail and I don't see the picks or anything from you.  Could you send them again please?  Also, how much time did it take you for the whole procedure?  I'm sure it would take me about twice as long but I think I'm almost ready to tackle this project.  By the way, my zigzags are getting worse.

RB24
Also guys, I forgot to ask

Also guys, I forgot to ask and I didn't see it in the earlier comments, where did you purchase the 16v 10uf surface mount caps?  Did you get them directly from Toshiba or another party?  How long did it take for them to arrive after you ordered?

Mr. Donald
RB24, if you go back to page

RB24, if you go back to page #2, in this Forum, you will see where Larry Dillon, posted a site to buy the caps. He says that you can get caps here. The  (here) is in red letters, click on it and it will take you to that site. Mine took about a week to get here, they come from Ohio, I am in Denver, Co. So you can judge from that. Also keep in mind you also need a pencil soldering iron. One that you can control the heat level, would be best. 63/37 solder melts at about 391 degrees. You dont want a soldering iron that heats up to 700 or 800 degrees. Just little tid-bits of info for you.

RB24
Thanks Mr. Donald.  I

Thanks Mr. Donald.  I probably need to go to a hobby shop and buy one.  Also, the 63/37 solder, is that a standard and can you use rosin core or would you use paste?  Now about the caps, dp I need the Toshiba number or will any 16v 10uf surface mount caps work?  I know this is a lot of questions but I just want to be sure.  I also want to thank you guys for all of your help.  If this works out it's going to save me a bunch of money.

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