RB24, the hyper board is directly behind the input board, like MOtvGuy said, but one thing I did was wrong, I first tried to remove the hyper board, without removing the shield, ( bad idea), my hyper board was soldered to the shield, I didnt see it, till I desoldered the shield from the main board. Then the hyper board unplugged real easy.
Mr. Donald, so you removed the shield before you removed the hyper board or do you just make sure that you desoldered the shield from the main board before you try and remove the hyper board? One other question, am I going to have to remove the main board from the tv also or can I get to the solder points of hte shield from the top? And by the way, mine is getting worse.
RB24, the longer you wait to repair the board, the less of a chance it will not work, as everyday those capacitors are leaking out a corrossive substance thats eating away at the tiny printed circuit board landings. Make sure you carefully clean the board before replaceing parts.
Do you have any thoughts on what my problem above might be? I was thinking I could live with it a bit longer, even though it's geting worse - just on the bottom half of the screen, tops fine - until this last posting.
Now I'm thinking I need to get it fixed before it may cause further damage to the board. I looked for another thread with blue shadowing or lower convergence issues but didn't have any luck.
More of a 3-D effect. Exactly half way down the picture the blue starts to shadow the rest of the picture, sort of riding above it in an arch. It gets worse at the bottom of the screen. It's mostly noticeable with white objects.
If it's a picture of a black shirt with white buttons then everything is fine at the top half of the picture. Once you go below 1/2 way down, the bottons look tannish and there is a blue button just above it. The gap between the actual button and the blue shadow button widens at the bottom of the screen.
If the shirt is off to the left or right of center then the shadow buttons are also off center a bit towards the middle of the set. (the whites lines in football have blue curved shadows in the lower half)
Larry Dillon, thanks for the info. I was kind of wondering about that. I guess I'll tackle it after christmas. Do you know if I need to remove the motherboard completely to be able to remove the hyper board?
RB24, There are 4 tabs on the bottom of the shield, that stick through the mother board. And they are sodered on the bottom. If you desolder those, and straighten any of the tabs that are bent, then the shield and the hyper board will unplug from the mother board. All as one unit. I pulled the entire chassis back and stood it straight up, so as to get to the soldered tabs. That was easy. If I had it to do over again, I would then take the hyper board and my parts to a professional so they could install the new capacitors. I didnt realize how poor my sight is, or how much my hand would shake, till I started to desolder/solder the new capacitors on. Those capacitors are tiny. And very little solder is required to hold them. There's not much room to work in. But, if you are good at sodering PC boards, then you may be Ok. Good Luck!
Larry and Shag and everyone else, thanks for the help! I just replaced the caps on my 57hx81. All of the info you've posted on this page was real helpful. I took a few pix so if anyone needs them, PM me and I'll send them over. I found a walkthrough on another site and it was pretty helpful. I adapted that walkthrough and I've posted my own version below:
1) unplug the set and removed the rear partical board. 2) The main electronics are in a chassis. This can be removed with 3 screws.
3) remove the input panel by removing 6 screws from amongst the inputs. 4) Remove the screws holding in the DVI connector and the one nut holding in the TV tuner. 5) There are a lot of wire routing brackets. You will need to pull the wires out and get some slack to allow movement. 6) Then pull the input board. 7) Remove the plastic "bridge" by unscrewing the 4 screws. Now the Hyperboard is visible and clear of obstruction.
8) Here you have a few choices for your next step. Unplug EVERYTYHING and take the whole chassis out OR free up wires to you can get the chassis free OR do what I did, prop the chassis up (I used three plastic cups) so that you can access the bottom of the mainboard. My old man probably rolled over in his grave when he saw that I chose option three. He always told me to do things the right way but obviously, I have a listening problem. :)
9) On the bottom of the board, you will see 4 tabs that have large gobs of solder holding them in. With a large solder wick and a soldering iron, remove the solder. Then with some needle nose pliers, twist the tabs back to vertical - they are twisted slightly to hold the board in. (This part was a pain in the rear because of the option I chose in step 8 above).
10) Remove the Hyperboard and slide the metal cover off. 11) Desolder the caps (my board had 11) and solder the new ones back on. This was the most time consuming part because those suckers are TINY. 12) Reverse steps 1-10.
When I fired up the set, I have to be honest that I didn't think it would work. I was sure that I didn't damage anything taking the units apart or putting them back together; that was straightforward. I just wasn't sure about my soldering job on those caps. Even though it's been years, I guess I still have my skillz because it works good as new! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
Grizzleybear, Lets not forget to thank MOtvGUY also. If you put this together with a few photos and send these to the editor, i'm sure he would make an article for you to publish here on techlore!
Guys, I've removed the board. The number on the board is mvpu13. I started counting the number of Caps and I've only counted 8. Is this the correct number? I'm becoming a little confused. Please help. I want to be sure. The number on the caps inside read from top to bottom, 2u, 10, 16v. Is this correct.?
RB24, I had 11 caps on my board. The numbers were 3R, 10, 16v. Have you got the new caps. Look on the new ones for the numbers. I dont know how old your set is. But there may be a difference, depending on the chassis number. You better contact MOtvguy, or Larry Dillon, to be sure.
Sorry Guys. There were 11. I just couldn't see them because of the lighting. I've actually given the board to a co-worker to replace the caps. He's work with surface mounts. It's been a couple of years but that more experience than I've got. I'll let you know about the progress.
They will come loose if you overheat the pad, as by using too big of a soldering iron. Unless the capacitor was so bad it ate away the board a bit. If this is the case you will be better off replaceing the board.
Mr. Donald, is it possible to still repair the board? That particular Cap fell apart when it was removed but the guy said he may still be able to salvage. What do you think?
RB24, go for it. The worse that can happen is you may need to replace the board. So while your this far, finish it and see what happens. Those capacitors are tiny, and the board is delicate. But dont stop now, finish up, and see what you got.
Of course finish up. If you read the reply I stated that if the board was eaten up by the acid in the capacitor, replace the board, as it will continue to eat the board if you do not clean it. But of course finish it, see what happends. It is only time and no TV you have to lose.
First of all I would like to thank all of you guys for putting your input in this forum. My mother in law gave us a 42h82 42 inch toshiba that had zig zags all over the top of the screen and it took about a half an hour to warm up enough to even make out the picture clearly. After reading all of the input on this forum I went to MCM and purchased the capacitors that needed replaced and the set works perfectly now.
Thanks again guys for all of your help. My friend will be working on the board again tonight. He hd replaced half of them when he ran into the problem. If it doesn't work, I'll just need to order another board. What's the best suggestion on ordering? I noticed you guys have talked about several differnt places?
well im taking my board to a repair company they will fix it for 10.00 just to solder the caps in.. problem is I really want to kno what i need to pull out I know you guys said where I just want an image of what exactly to pull out so its faster!! if you could message me on here or email me at xtremewakeboarder at hotmail.com that would be great! "said at so bots cant see my email an add me to mailing lists!!
Wow, this thread gives me hope! My Toshiba 42H83 has the exact
same problem...bad zig-zags, vertical white bar on the right side, take
30+ minutes to become watchable, HD channels look perfect.
Has
there been any luck with getting an article posted on techlore?
I've read this entire thread, and feel like I might be able to tackle
this, but it sure would be nice to have a guide handy! Thanks to
all of you for sharing this info!
There was one that was going to but I do not know if he did or not. Maybe we all should ask MOtvGUY, the expert on this repair if he would write an article and submit it here to the Editor and get it published? What do you say MOtvGUY?
Guys, my board should be back tomorrow but the friend I had repair isn't sure that it's going to work because of the pad damage that was done. In other words, can anyone let me know where I may be able to find another board if this one doesn't work?
RB24, the hyper board is directly behind the input board, like MOtvGuy said, but one thing I did was wrong, I first tried to remove the hyper board, without removing the shield, ( bad idea), my hyper board was soldered to the shield, I didnt see it, till I desoldered the shield from the main board. Then the hyper board unplugged real easy.
Mr. Donald, so you removed the shield before you removed the hyper board or do you just make sure that you desoldered the shield from the main board before you try and remove the hyper board? One other question, am I going to have to remove the main board from the tv also or can I get to the solder points of hte shield from the top? And by the way, mine is getting worse.
RB24, the longer you wait to repair the board, the less of a chance it will not work, as everyday those capacitors are leaking out a corrossive substance thats eating away at the tiny printed circuit board landings. Make sure you carefully clean the board before replaceing parts.
Mr. Dillon,
Do you have any thoughts on what my problem above might be? I was thinking I could live with it a bit longer, even though it's geting worse - just on the bottom half of the screen, tops fine - until this last posting.
Now I'm thinking I need to get it fixed before it may cause further damage to the board. I looked for another thread with blue shadowing or lower convergence issues but didn't have any luck.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
stuck, is the bottom of the picture in a 3-D effect or is it distorted and zig-zag? Can you put up a picture?
More of a 3-D effect. Exactly half way down the picture the blue starts to shadow the rest of the picture, sort of riding above it in an arch. It gets worse at the bottom of the screen. It's mostly noticeable with white objects.
If it's a picture of a black shirt with white buttons then everything is fine at the top half of the picture. Once you go below 1/2 way down, the bottons look tannish and there is a blue button just above it. The gap between the actual button and the blue shadow button widens at the bottom of the screen.
If the shirt is off to the left or right of center then the shadow buttons are also off center a bit towards the middle of the set. (the whites lines in football have blue curved shadows in the lower half)
sounds like a typical convergence IC problem, but I would need to see the effects to say for sure.
Larry Dillon, thanks for the info. I was kind of wondering about that. I guess I'll tackle it after christmas. Do you know if I need to remove the motherboard completely to be able to remove the hyper board?
You should so you can see where to unsolder the sheild, but you do not have to.
RB24, There are 4 tabs on the bottom of the shield, that stick through the mother board. And they are sodered on the bottom. If you desolder those, and straighten any of the tabs that are bent, then the shield and the hyper board will unplug from the mother board. All as one unit. I pulled the entire chassis back and stood it straight up, so as to get to the soldered tabs. That was easy. If I had it to do over again, I would then take the hyper board and my parts to a professional so they could install the new capacitors. I didnt realize how poor my sight is, or how much my hand would shake, till I started to desolder/solder the new capacitors on. Those capacitors are tiny. And very little solder is required to hold them. There's not much room to work in. But, if you are good at sodering PC boards, then you may be Ok. Good Luck!
Larry and Shag and everyone else, thanks for the help! I just replaced the caps on my 57hx81. All of the info you've posted on this page was real helpful. I took a few pix so if anyone needs them, PM me and I'll send them over. I found a walkthrough on another site and it was pretty helpful. I adapted that walkthrough and I've posted my own version below:
1) unplug the set and removed the rear partical board. 2) The main electronics are in a chassis. This can be removed with 3 screws.
3) remove the input panel by removing 6 screws from amongst the inputs. 4) Remove the screws holding in the DVI connector and the one nut holding in the TV tuner. 5) There are a lot of wire routing brackets. You will need to pull the wires out and get some slack to allow movement. 6) Then pull the input board. 7) Remove the plastic "bridge" by unscrewing the 4 screws. Now the Hyperboard is visible and clear of obstruction.
8) Here you have a few choices for your next step. Unplug EVERYTYHING and take the whole chassis out OR free up wires to you can get the chassis free OR do what I did, prop the chassis up (I used three plastic cups) so that you can access the bottom of the mainboard. My old man probably rolled over in his grave when he saw that I chose option three. He always told me to do things the right way but obviously, I have a listening problem. :)
9) On the bottom of the board, you will see 4 tabs that have large gobs of solder holding them in. With a large solder wick and a soldering iron, remove the solder. Then with some needle nose pliers, twist the tabs back to vertical - they are twisted slightly to hold the board in. (This part was a pain in the rear because of the option I chose in step 8 above).
10) Remove the Hyperboard and slide the metal cover off. 11) Desolder the caps (my board had 11) and solder the new ones back on. This was the most time consuming part because those suckers are TINY. 12) Reverse steps 1-10.
When I fired up the set, I have to be honest that I didn't think it would work. I was sure that I didn't damage anything taking the units apart or putting them back together; that was straightforward. I just wasn't sure about my soldering job on those caps. Even though it's been years, I guess I still have my skillz because it works good as new! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
Grizzleybear, Lets not forget to thank MOtvGUY also. If you put this together with a few photos and send these to the editor, i'm sure he would make an article for you to publish here on techlore!
I'd love to!
Who is the editor and what would I do, send them a PM with attachments?
Guys, I've removed the board. The number on the board is mvpu13. I started counting the number of Caps and I've only counted 8. Is this the correct number? I'm becoming a little confused. Please help. I want to be sure. The number on the caps inside read from top to bottom, 2u, 10, 16v. Is this correct.?
RB24, I had 11 caps on my board. The numbers were 3R, 10, 16v. Have you got the new caps. Look on the new ones for the numbers. I dont know how old your set is. But there may be a difference, depending on the chassis number. You better contact MOtvguy, or Larry Dillon, to be sure.
Sorry Guys. There were 11. I just couldn't see them because of the lighting. I've actually given the board to a co-worker to replace the caps. He's work with surface mounts. It's been a couple of years but that more experience than I've got. I'll let you know about the progress.
Have any of you guys had problems with the seats for the caps on the circuit board coming loose when you remove the defective caps?
They will come loose if you overheat the pad, as by using too big of a soldering iron. Unless the capacitor was so bad it ate away the board a bit. If this is the case you will be better off replaceing the board.
Mr. Donald, is it possible to still repair the board? That particular Cap fell apart when it was removed but the guy said he may still be able to salvage. What do you think?
I'm sure the pad wasn't over heated.
RB24, go for it. The worse that can happen is you may need to replace the board. So while your this far, finish it and see what happens. Those capacitors are tiny, and the board is delicate. But dont stop now, finish up, and see what you got.
Of course finish up. If you read the reply I stated that if the board was eaten up by the acid in the capacitor, replace the board, as it will continue to eat the board if you do not clean it. But of course finish it, see what happends. It is only time and no TV you have to lose.
First of all I would like to thank all of you guys for putting your input in this forum. My mother in law gave us a 42h82 42 inch toshiba that had zig zags all over the top of the screen and it took about a half an hour to warm up enough to even make out the picture clearly. After reading all of the input on this forum I went to MCM and purchased the capacitors that needed replaced and the set works perfectly now.
Great to hear another success story guitarjoe!
Thanks again guys for all of your help. My friend will be working on the board again tonight. He hd replaced half of them when he ran into the problem. If it doesn't work, I'll just need to order another board. What's the best suggestion on ordering? I noticed you guys have talked about several differnt places?
well im taking my board to a repair company they will fix it for 10.00 just to solder the caps in.. problem is I really want to kno what i need to pull out I know you guys said where I just want an image of what exactly to pull out so its faster!! if you could message me on here or email me at xtremewakeboarder at hotmail.com that would be great! "said at so bots cant see my email an add me to mailing lists!!
Thanks again
nvm found the board =) just gotta get the chassis up
Wow, this thread gives me hope! My Toshiba 42H83 has the exact
same problem...bad zig-zags, vertical white bar on the right side, take
30+ minutes to become watchable, HD channels look perfect.
Has
there been any luck with getting an article posted on techlore?
I've read this entire thread, and feel like I might be able to tackle
this, but it sure would be nice to have a guide handy! Thanks to
all of you for sharing this info!
There was one that was going to but I do not know if he did or not. Maybe we all should ask MOtvGUY, the expert on this repair if he would write an article and submit it here to the Editor and get it published? What do you say MOtvGUY?
Guys, my board should be back tomorrow but the friend I had repair isn't sure that it's going to work because of the pad damage that was done. In other words, can anyone let me know where I may be able to find another board if this one doesn't work?
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