I need to know about a new board replacement I know I can get the board rebuilt but I only paid 165.00 for the new board and pts wants 139.00 to redo the old board this way I have a spair I am needing to know if anyone that replaced there board with a new one had to do any adjustments thanks Mopar can you tell me the number for the caps you used and where to get them I am going to try to replace the caps on my old board my self
mistjef: I replaced my board with a new one. I didnt have to make any adjustments at all. But that was mine, I dont know if anybody had to make any adjustments. Good Luck: Mrdonald
It is a very rare thing that you will need to make any adjustments after you replace the hyper board unless you messed with any before you replaced the board. I have had this situation a few times in the past where someone thinks that the service mode is the fix all for a TV set.
Thanks Mr. Dillon I have not touched anything on my TV yet the hyper board is going to be here on Monday the day after the super bowl that sucks but at least it is still watchable just a little shaky my board has been going out for a little over a year now I have to set my satellite box on the highest resolution to be able to watch it
I've had the wavy line issue for about a year now , getting worse ever week. Well just before christmas it got really bad and never went away, along with want looked like a new problem. The red color appeared to be offset from other colors. Well with the tv un watchable I purchased the caps and installed over the weekend. The whole wavy line issue went away , however it appears I have a new problem.. see attache image.. HELP
it looks to me you need to adjust the convergance. you will find this in the menu i cant remember what its under. its been a while since i addjusted mine. but this is where you align the three colors. you will see 9 locations on the screen with a + and the goal is to line up the blue and pink to the white using the remote.
I beg to differ my friend. That there is NOT simply an adjustment. The convergence would NEVER need a readjustment like this. This is for sure a full blown convergence amp failure. Or perhaps, if this occurred after another repair, I would bet there was a plug out of it's base somewhere. Do not ever attempt to make alignments or adjustments if your convergence goes out of sync this much. It is a component fault. Replace the bad IC's first, then do an adjustment. Saves you a lot in time, trouble, and headaches. Good luck
Thanks for the input... This happened before any repair attempts had been made. Why would a convergence amp blow... I know it happens.. Just wondering if I should also focus on the a driving circuits for the amp. Transistor(s) resistors etc...
Sorry for pulling the thread off topic... perhaps I should move this to another thread.
Replace the convergence amps. You also might find resistors or protection devices like pico fuses or circuit protectors that could be blown open because of the shorted amps.
I just wanted to thank everyone on the posting I did the Hyper board replacement last night I did not replace the caps I ordered a new board from tritronics well a rebuilt board it took about 45 minutes from start to finish that’s not counting going to fry’s electronics and buying a new soldering iron I bought a 25 to 60 watt adjustable for 16.99 worked perfect no disrespect to SPC’s Post but you don’t have to go through off the trouble he has posted pictures ofto get the hyper board out all I did was remove the 4 screws that holds the rack that holds all of the main boards to the bottom of the TV the whole rack slides out about an inch I then tilted the back of the rack up towards the top of the TV I used a couple of plastic cups to hold it up so now the bottom of the main board is visible you will have to lay on your side to do the desoldering or if you wanted you could lay your TV on it’s front mine is a 65 inch so it was a little big to do that use desolder wick once you have the four tabs desoldered lay the board back down you will then need to remove the five screws that hold the black plastic cover that goes over the Hyper board the cover will lift up and you can move it over to the side you do not have too disconnect any wires next gently and I mean gently move the Hyper board from each end with a rocking motion it does not take a lot of presser just be patient it took all of about 20 seconds to remove my Hyper board form it’s socket I was afraid of cracking my main board once the Hyper board is removed do what you need to do with it to install just do everything in reverse now my set works perfect and I have an extra board just incase
Hey Guys, Long time NO Post, I used this post over a year ago and it helped me fix a convergence issue, I replaced the 2 chips and that is working great, I am now getting the sqigally image on start up that gets better as TV warms up. I would apprecaite if some one can tell me the best place and part # to replace hyperboard. I have a toshiba 50 inch
The good news is Without knowing the model number of your TV the most common part # is, 23148024 The bad news is they don’t make the part anymore I was lucky and with a few dozen calls to Toshiba I don’t know how the got them but they found thirteen. But they will not sell to the public so I called Tritronics and they ordered all 13 and sold out within a week so as far as I know there is no more parts to be found the only other option is to send you board to PTSCorp for a rebuild Good Luck
Sorry my friend but it is ptscorp.com. They will rebuild the board or you can replace every smaller 10mfd @16 volt surface mounted capacitor. It is more difficult though to work with surface mounted components. If you have no training or experience with surface mounted components, play it safe and send the board into Tristate or ptscorp for rebuilding. Good luck
For those following my post above. My convergance issue has been resolved. I replaced both convergence amps. TV is now working fine.
To sum everthing up 11 caps fixed the zig zag lines , amps fixed the colour problem. I'm a happy camper now. Missed watching the superbowl by just on week.
I want to send a "Thank you" to the folks who took the time to write & take photos on how to replace the caps. I replaced my 11 caps yesterday after living with the wavy/jumpy screen for about 3 months. I was very hesitant at first but I could not take the picture anymore. So, i jumped right in after ordering/receiving my caps from MCM.
Actually, the replacement of the caps is straightforward but I ran into 2 problems. The first was when I was attempting to remove a cap the trace pad came off. GULP! I soldered the pad back on but didn't think it would work. After I had replaced all 11 caps and wanted solder the metal shield on I noticed I didn't have two prongs aligned with the slots. Well, I went to remove the shield lo & behold I hear a rattle and a 470 cap falls out with the pads. YIKES! Easy fix, I used some stranded wire to mount it back in place.
After those two incidents, I was doubtful that it would work but it works - no zig-zagging. It was definately a confidence builder. Power to all DIY-ers!!!
I didn't really miss the Super Bowl, saw it on a 31" LCD. However it would have been better on the 50". OH and being from Canada, the real reason for watching is the commercials.
You are all right , it feels great having fixed the TV and saving a boat load of money. It would have been an impossible task, without forums like this.
you know I had a 470 Cap fall off my old board also I did nothing to make it fall off after I took the board out of the TV I walked it to the other side of the room set it on a table left came back picked it up noticed a rattle in the case removed the front and the cap fell out it also had one of the pads on it that just shows how cheep these are made sorry but I will never but a Toshiba product again
MOtvGuy said: Wish I would've joined sooner, I could've saved you a bunch of money. They problem is the Hyperboard, or digital module. The actual problem with the board is a bunch of defective surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors that go bad. There are approximately a dozen on that board that can go bad. The board itself only has it's shield soldered to the main board, the actual board itself is a plug in. Extreme care must be taken after unsoldering the ground shield connections and then pulling up on the board, you can crack the main board if you don't remove it properly. We usually just remove the board, check all the capacitors and replace the bad ones and the set is fine. Those capacitors can be found on-line for around $1-2 apiece.
I came across this thread too late. :( I actually cracked the main board trying to remove the hyperboard. Do you think the mainboard is replaceable, or is the whole thing trash at this point?
I am having the same problem I had a TV repair man look at my TV, 42H83, Toshiba. He was here 10 min., said the Hyper Module was out of it. Would cost me $600.00 to fix it, so I am going to try to have the mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors that go bad replaced to see if that fixes the problem
If you can get someone to correctly take off each cap, clean the board with alcohol and cotton swab, install all of the bad caps, you should be fine. The cleaning will stop the leakage from "eating" the board and from ruining it. Good Luck
I just want to thank everyone who posted on this problem, both questions and answers, problems and solutions that all of you contributed. With everything that all of you posted in these 12 pages I performed the repair to my 42H82 yesterday successfully. Thanks you all.
Want to thank the forum here, fixed my Toshiba's (42H82) zig-zag problems a few months back. Couldn't have done it with out you all.
Now that problem is fixed, I have another: seems the green gun will not converge in the mid-left section of the screen. From some research, I gather it's the IC's that are the problem? Is this as easy as the surface cap fixes or more detailed? Anything you all can offer would be appreciated.
No! You will need to change out the two convergence IC's. They are mounted up against a a large metal plate called a heat sink. The IC's will start with STK and have six numbers following it. Do not order the cheapest you can find, as a matter of fact, make sure they are the originals from Toshiba or made by Sanyo. All the rest, or most of them, Are aftermarket types or factory rejects. Good Luck
I need to know about a new board replacement I know I can get the board rebuilt but I only paid 165.00 for the new board and pts wants 139.00 to redo the old board this way I have a spair I am needing to know if anyone that replaced there board with a new one had to do any adjustments thanks Mopar can you tell me the number for the caps you used and where to get them I am going to try to replace the caps on my old board my self
mistjef: I replaced my board with a new one. I didnt have to make any adjustments at all. But that was mine, I dont know if anybody had to make any adjustments. Good Luck: Mrdonald
It is a very rare thing that you will need to make any adjustments after you replace the hyper board unless you messed with any before you replaced the board. I have had this situation a few times in the past where someone thinks that the service mode is the fix all for a TV set.
Thanks Mr. Dillon I have not touched anything on my TV yet the hyper board is going to be here on Monday the day after the super bowl that sucks but at least it is still watchable just a little shaky my board has been going out for a little over a year now I have to set my satellite box on the highest resolution to be able to watch it
I've had the wavy line issue for about a year now , getting worse ever week. Well just before christmas it got really bad and never went away, along with want looked like a new problem. The red color appeared to be offset from other colors. Well with the tv un watchable I purchased the caps and installed over the weekend. The whole wavy line issue went away
, however it appears I have a new problem.. see attache image.. HELP
it looks to me you need to adjust the convergance. you will find this in the menu i cant remember what its under. its been a while since i addjusted mine. but this is where you align the three colors. you will see 9 locations on the screen with a + and the goal is to line up the blue and pink to the white using the remote.
Hope this helps
Don
I beg to differ my friend. That there is NOT simply an adjustment. The convergence would NEVER need a readjustment like this. This is for sure a full blown convergence amp failure. Or perhaps, if this occurred after another repair, I would bet there was a plug out of it's base somewhere. Do not ever attempt to make alignments or adjustments if your convergence goes out of sync this much. It is a component fault. Replace the bad IC's first, then do an adjustment. Saves you a lot in time, trouble, and headaches. Good luck
Thanks for the input... This happened before any repair attempts had been made. Why would a convergence amp blow... I know it happens.. Just wondering if I should also focus on the a driving circuits for the amp. Transistor(s) resistors etc...
Sorry for pulling the thread off topic... perhaps I should move this to another thread.
Replace the convergence amps. You also might find resistors or protection devices like pico fuses or circuit protectors that could be blown open because of the shorted amps.
I just wanted to thank everyone on the posting I did the Hyper board replacement last night I did not replace the caps I ordered a new board from tritronics well a rebuilt board it took about 45 minutes from start to finish that’s not counting going to fry’s electronics and buying a new soldering iron I bought a 25 to 60 watt adjustable for 16.99 worked perfect no disrespect to SPC’s Post but you don’t have to go through off the trouble he has posted pictures of to get the hyper board out all I did was remove the 4 screws that holds the rack that holds all of the main boards to the bottom of the TV the whole rack slides out about an inch I then tilted the back of the rack up towards the top of the TV I used a couple of plastic cups to hold it up so now the bottom of the main board is visible you will have to lay on your side to do the desoldering or if you wanted you could lay your TV on it’s front mine is a 65 inch so it was a little big to do that use desolder wick once you have the four tabs desoldered lay the board back down you will then need to remove the five screws that hold the black plastic cover that goes over the Hyper board the cover will lift up and you can move it over to the side you do not have too disconnect any wires next gently and I mean gently move the Hyper board from each end with a rocking motion it does not take a lot of presser just be patient it took all of about 20 seconds to remove my Hyper board form it’s socket I was afraid of cracking my main board once the Hyper board is removed do what you need to do with it to install just do everything in reverse now my set works perfect and I have an extra board just incase
So thanks again all
Hey Guys, Long time NO Post, I used this post over a year ago and it helped me fix a convergence issue, I replaced the 2 chips and that is working great, I am now getting the sqigally image on start up that gets better as TV warms up. I would apprecaite if some one can tell me the best place and part # to replace hyperboard. I have a toshiba 50 inch
The good news is Without knowing the model number of your TV the most common part # is, 23148024 The bad news is they don’t make the part anymore I was lucky and with a few dozen calls to Toshiba I don’t know how the got them but they found thirteen. But they will not sell to the public so I called Tritronics and they ordered all 13 and sold out within a week so as far as I know there is no more parts to be found the only other option is to send you board to PTSCorp for a rebuild Good Luck
Sorry my friend but it is ptscorp.com. They will rebuild the board or you can replace every smaller 10mfd @16 volt surface mounted capacitor. It is more difficult though to work with surface mounted components. If you have no training or experience with surface mounted components, play it safe and send the board into Tristate or ptscorp for rebuilding. Good luck
oK Well I know I can solder the new caps on myself , I was just being lazy , I will search the forum and get info and fix the board , thanks
There are about 10 of those small capacitors you will need to change
are there any "quality" rebuilt hyperboards avalible ?
not that I found you will need to send yours to ptscorp
For those following my post above. My convergance issue has been resolved. I replaced both convergence amps. TV is now working fine.
To sum everthing up 11 caps fixed the zig zag lines , amps fixed the colour problem. I'm a happy camper now. Missed watching the superbowl by just on week.
Great news! You solved two problem with your TV set and saved big bucks! Great feeling is it not?
Great News, Too bad you missed the BEST SUPER BOWL EVER !!! GO GIANTS
I want to send a "Thank you" to the folks who took the time to write & take photos on how to replace the caps. I replaced my 11 caps yesterday after living with the wavy/jumpy screen for about 3 months. I was very hesitant at first but I could not take the picture anymore. So, i jumped right in after ordering/receiving my caps from MCM.
So I say, "Thank you, Thank you, Thank you".
Actually, the replacement of the caps is straightforward but I ran into 2 problems. The first was when I was attempting to remove a cap the trace pad came off. GULP! I soldered the pad back on but didn't think it would work. After I had replaced all 11 caps and wanted solder the metal shield on I noticed I didn't have two prongs aligned with the slots. Well, I went to remove the shield lo & behold I hear a rattle and a 470 cap falls out with the pads. YIKES! Easy fix, I used some stranded wire to mount it back in place.
After those two incidents, I was doubtful that it would work but it works - no zig-zagging. It was definately a confidence builder. Power to all DIY-ers!!!
I didn't really miss the Super Bowl, saw it on a 31" LCD. However it would have been better on the 50". OH and being from Canada, the real reason for watching is the commercials.
You are all right , it feels great having fixed the TV and saving a boat load of money. It would have been an impossible task, without forums like this.
you know I had a 470 Cap fall off my old board also I did nothing to make it fall off after I took the board out of the TV I walked it to the other side of the room set it on a table left came back picked it up noticed a rattle in the case removed the front and the cap fell out it also had one of the pads on it that just shows how cheep these are made sorry but I will never but a Toshiba product again
I came across this thread too late. :( I actually cracked the main board trying to remove the hyperboard. Do you think the mainboard is replaceable, or is the whole thing trash at this point?
Thanks, VC
Hello everyone
I am having the same problem I had a TV repair man look at my TV, 42H83, Toshiba. He was here 10 min., said the Hyper Module was out of it. Would cost me $600.00 to fix it, so I am going to try to have the mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors that go bad replaced to see if that fixes the problem
If you can get someone to correctly take off each cap, clean the board with alcohol and cotton swab, install all of the bad caps, you should be fine. The cleaning will stop the leakage from "eating" the board and from ruining it. Good Luck
I just want to thank everyone who posted on this problem, both questions and answers, problems and solutions that all of you contributed. With everything that all of you posted in these 12 pages I performed the repair to my 42H82 yesterday successfully. Thanks you all.
Everyone,
Want to thank the forum here, fixed my Toshiba's (42H82) zig-zag problems a few months back. Couldn't have done it with out you all.
Now that problem is fixed, I have another: seems the green gun will not converge in the mid-left section of the screen. From some research, I gather it's the IC's that are the problem? Is this as easy as the surface cap fixes or more detailed? Anything you all can offer would be appreciated.
v/r
Pete
No! You will need to change out the two convergence IC's. They are mounted up against a a large metal plate called a heat sink. The IC's will start with STK and have six numbers following it. Do not order the cheapest you can find, as a matter of fact, make sure they are the originals from Toshiba or made by Sanyo. All the rest, or most of them, Are aftermarket types or factory rejects. Good Luck
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