Toshiba, Model4283, picture is zig-zag.

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Mr. Donald
Toshiba, Model4283, picture is zig-zag.

My picture is zig-zag, and I have two people when I should have one. A big ghost in other words.It's all horizontally, zig -zag.  Voice is fine, just cant watch the picture. Anybody else have a problem like this?

Mr. Donald
Well I had a TV repair man

Well I had a TV repair man look at my TV, 42H83, Toshiba. He was here 10 min., said the Hyper Module was out of it. Would cost me $600.00 to fix it. So I went to the Parts Store, on-line, and this part is no longer available. The TV is 3 years old, what a Rip off. Seems to me that something is drastically wrong.

Mr. Donald
Well, I found parts for my

Well, I found parts for my Toshiba, 42H83, A new Hyper Module, will cost me $165.00, a long way from $600.00. Now I dont know whether to believe the Tech that checked out my TV. This whole big screen TV repair has turned into a nightmare. You cant believe what they tell you. I wish I still had my old 13inch. At least it was reliable.

shagwire
hay what is the part number.

hay what is the part number. and where did you get it.

shagwire
I looked at a few other web

I looked at a few other web pages and found that the hyper board is what most people think the problem is. I was told by toshiba it may be the tuner or high generater coil. also how is your picture in HD? my hd picture is good. 

Mr. Donald
Hey shagwire, go to www

Hey shagwire, go to www.tritronics inc.com, the part # is, 23148024, and the # for the convertion board is,23787795. My picture jumps all over the place, but the longer the TV is on the better it gets. When you go to www.tritronics inc.com, click on parts lookup,then sign in as consumer/guest. Let me know what you come up with. I'm going to fix this TV if it kills me, and I'm not paying $600.00 for it. I will buy a new one first.

shagwire
Ya, my tv when turned on it

Ya, my tv when turned on it takes about 30 minets to get better. But at the top of the screen all the vertcal lines are zig zaggy.Over time the zig zags have made there way down to the bottem. This happens with all channels under 1080i (hd) even with dvd or xbox the picture zig zags. the hd picture is good but it also is starting to zig zag. There is a picture of a 42h82 with the same problem @tv forums.com under toshiba 42h82 convergence problems. post # 60. If i bring up the tv menu it is also is fine (no zig zag). post # 61 thinks it is a power supply or horizontal osc. I'm still trying to find out what the p/n's or for those are. Also check out allexperts.com and for board rebuild check ptscorp.com I guess they have reasonable price's. I'm still trying to get more info so if you find anything out let me now. I'll do the same.

Mr. Donald
Larry Dillon, in the Toshiba

Larry Dillon, in the Toshiba service manual, it is called a ( Scan Converter Modul), the Hyper Module name came from this technician that checked out my TV. He said that different Manufactures have different names for it. I'm still not comvinced that is the problem. But he should know more than me about it.

Larry Dillon
Is that have two large ICs

Is that have two large ICs mounted on it that start with STK ?

Mr. Donald
Larry, I believe your right,

Larry, I believe your right, but I havent taken the set apart yet. When I run the set in the self-check mode. An Error message comes up with this. DVI 23009621  IC,TMP87C809M, It seems like the set is trying to tell me what is wrong, but I'm too dumb to know. If I was younger I would go to school and learn all this stuff. Anyway, any input at all will help. Thanks

shagwire
form what I'v read replacing

form what I'v read replacing the ic's is for convergence problems, (color not converging horizontally or vertically) is this right? and there is two of them in the tv P/N stk392-110.and after you replace the ic's you may have to go to service mode to adjust the color.

Larry Dillon
Yes you may need to do the

Yes you may need to do the alighnment as well shag

shagwire
I dont think that my tv has a

I dont think that my tv has a convergence problem because the colors are ok. is this true? I dont know what this zig zagging would be called?

Mr. Donald
Well shag, my problem is not

Well shag, my problem is not a convergence problem either. My color is great, my problem is with the scan converter, ( hyper module). I'm going to replace it, will let you know how it goes. My voice is also great, just that the picture is all zig-zag. According to what I find out, this module monitors the signal that comes in the cable, or antenna, whichever you use, and converts it, so you get a good picture. Thats the only way I can explain it. It may be called something else, but I understand my version.

shagwire
how dose the  hyper module

how dose the  hyper module differ from the tuner and is the hyper module on the same board as the tuner?

shagwire
I just found a forum on this

I just found a forum on this problem they say to replace all the 10@16v. caps in the hyper module (cx261 / cx230 / cx270 / cz52 / cx178 / cx221 / c514 / cx250 / cx670  / cx241 / cx541) this is for hyper board 23148024 / 23148024p / 23148024x

RB24
Is there just a board that

Is there just a board that you can replace for this problem or will it be several different components on different boards?  Im experiencing the same type of problem but it goes away after about 15 minutes.  It usually starts with the whole picture and slowly fades towards the top of the screen until it's gone.  I would like to know if this is an easy fix such as replacing a circuit board.

Mr. Donald
RB24, I ordered a Hyper

RB24, I ordered a Hyper Module, but have not recieved it yet. So I dont know if thats my only problem. This Module sits on a board, and is soldered in place. So it's no easy fix. My TV is only 3 years old, but parts are hard to find. They want you to buy a new TV, not fix your old one. Mine started out by being zig-zag for about a half an hour, then shortly it wouldnt go away. And the longer it is on , the better it gets. But it still is not good.

MOtvGuy
Wish I would've joined sooner

Wish I would've joined sooner, I could've saved you a bunch of money. They problem is the Hyperboard, or digital module. The actual problem with the board is a bunch of defective surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors that go bad. There are approximately a dozen on that board that can go bad. The board itself only has it's shield soldered to the main board, the actual board itself is a plug in. Extreme care must be taken after unsoldering the ground shield connections and then pulling up on the board, you can crack the main board if you don't remove it properly.

We usually just remove the board, check all the capacitors and replace the bad ones and the set is fine.  Those capacitors can be found on-line for around $1-2 apiece. 

RB24
Mr. Donald, That's how mine

Mr. Donald, That's how mine is acting now.  Let me know if this takes care of the problem.  Soldering it in place is no big deal.  As long as I'm not going to have to make 20 adjustments to other components then I should be okay.

Mr. Donald
MOtvGuy, thank you so much

MOtvGuy, thank you so much for your input. So this Hyper Module ( 23148024P) that I ordered, does it have all those capicitors on it that I need. Or have I ordered the wrong part? I'm not even sure what I'm getting, I mean what it actually looks like. The Tech that diagnosed my problem showed me this silver lookin module that stands up on the main board. So that is what I am expecting. If that is what I need , and it plugs in, then I'm ok. I refuse to throw this TV out. I like it, and I think it can be fixed at a reasonable price.  Thank You:

MOtvGuy
You ordered the right part. I

You ordered the right part. I'm sure the hyperboards anyones getting now are nothing but rebuilds since Toshiba no longer carries the board.  The board you were shown is correct.  Here's a tip if you're going to do this yourself.  The shield is soldered to the main board on it's four corners.  When you unsolder those shield ground points pay close attention to them, usually, at least two of the tabs poking through the board have been twisted.  When you've unsoldered them you'll need to untwist and straighten them out or you'll wind up cracking the board like I explained earlier.  Even after you've unsoldered and untwisted, I would suggest trying to wiggle the board upwards with one hand while holding down on the main board right by the hyper board with your other hand.  The main board is most vulnerable to crack on the left side (looking at the set from the back), care must be used.  Even though the hyper board is plugged into the main board it's still stiff getting it to pull loose from the connector on the main board.  Good luck. 

RB24
MOtvGuy & Mr. Donald, I'm

MOtvGuy & Mr. Donald, I'm glad I've talked with both of you.  Mr. Donald, when you receive your board, I would like to know where you purchased it and if MOtvGuy has a better or cheaper source, I would like to know that also.  I don't know if I could tackle replace all of the capacitors so I think I'll just stick with replacing the entire board.  The model number on my set is: 53MX71 & is a Cinema Series HD.  I just got the numbers off of it last night.  Does this change anything as far as fixing the problem?  Let me know.  Also, Mr. Donald, let me know how the repair goes...

MOtvGuy
You'll have to ask Mr. donald

You'll have to ask Mr. donald for his part source since we don't replace those boards, only rebuild them.  Those aren't standard electrolytics, those are surface mount electrolytics.  There's a little difference in replacing them and you'd need a 600-700 watt iron with a very fine tip to get those off the board without damaging the board. 

Mr. Donald
RB24, I think your smart in

RB24, I think your smart in replacing the whole board. If you scroll back in these messages, you will see where I ordered my parts from, and how to access the site. I would not want to try and replace all those myself. MOtvguy is very knowledgable, and helpfull.

RB24
Thank Both of you guys (Mr.

Thank Both of you guys (Mr. Donald & MOtvGuy) for you experiences.  Of course I'll still wait for Mr. Donalds results before my purchase.  MOtvGuy appears to be the expert I'm looking for.  And if I can save a little money with repairs, plus the gratification of repairing it myself, I will be very much appreciative.  Thanks again.

Padre
Can one of you guys let me

Can one of you guys let me know which is the hyper board? I see 2 shielded boards on the mainboard.

Is it the one that has cooling ports directly behind the input board or is it the one that is at a right angle and to the left of the input board?

 Also, my service manual does not seem to mention the scan converter module (hyper module). 

 

Any help would be very appreciated!! 

Mr. Donald
Padre: The hyper Module is

Padre: The hyper Module is shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and  about 4" wide, it stands just left of the input board. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board itself is a plug-in, so like MOtvguy, suggested, use extreme care in removing this board, so as not to crack the main board. I ordered a Hyper Module from Tritronics, inc. But I found out today that it is backordered, and will not be here till around the 10 of January, 07. Anyway, I plan to just replace the board, and not the shield. That way all I need to do is carefully remove the old one and slip the new one into place. Yeah, the service manual is good for a Tech. But  for dummies like me, I didnt find it all that helpful. I was hoping for a troubleshoot section, but it doesnt have it. Read back in my messages here, and Motvguy, explains a lot of how to go about this. I called Tritronics inc, today, and they told me I was getting a new board from the manufacture, everybody else told me that new parts are almost impossible to get. So I'm not sure what I'm gettin till it gets here. But parts are hard to find.

Padre
Mr. Donald said:

Mr. Donald said:
Padre: The hyper Module is shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide, it stands just left of the input board. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board itself is a plug-in, so like MOtvguy, suggested, use extreme care in removing this board, so as not to crack the main board. I ordered a Hyper Module from Tritronics, inc. But I found out today that it is backordered, and will not be here till around the 10 of January, 07. Anyway, I plan to just replace the board, and not the shield. That way all I need to do is carefully remove the old one and slip the new one into place. Yeah, the service manual is good for a Tech. But for dummies like me, I didnt find it all that helpful. I was hoping for a troubleshoot section, but it doesnt have it. Read back in my messages here, and Motvguy, explains a lot of how to go about this. I called Tritronics inc, today, and they told me I was getting a new board from the manufacture, everybody else told me that new parts are almost impossible to get. So I'm not sure what I'm gettin till it gets here. But parts are hard to find.

 

Thank you for responding to my question!

My service manual calls that board the "DIGI-CONV BOARD PD0638F (UH01)". Does this sound correct to you?

shagwire
I called toshiba and they had

I called toshiba and they had some hyper modules in stock, I think thay said it was $160.00 or less. my tv did the same thing RB24 at first but got real bad after 2 to 3 months later.now it is like what you see when you turn on your tv, all the time.my color is know getting real dark also.

Mr. Donald
Padre:  Yes, hyper module,

Padre:  Yes, hyper module, and Digi Conver Board are the same thing. Just two different names. Hey Shagwire, that is the price I am paying for mine, plus 19.95 ship/handling.  Padre:Conversion  or Hyper Module #23148024P, is the number for this module. Shagwire: Where was this Toshiba place at that you called. I dont get my order till 10/01/07. It was on backorder.

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