i know most of the replies in the topic are old but i have the same problem now i know about the surface mount capacitors on the hyper board and where to get them but i was wondering if someone has a service manual or pictures of how they did it so i have a reference.. thanks
There are a lot of pictures that may be useful if you go back and read and look on this thread. I'm afraid this is not the place to find the quick easy way out. A little resource as well as a little reading, I am positive you will find what you are looking for.
Thanks for all the outstanding info. I replaced all the caps replaced the conv IC's and went to put the main board back in and I lost my map of all the connections. Does any one have any pictures or something that will show me to and from. I know I sould of marked the connections. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks for the responce. I have both the service manual and schmatic diagram of each card. There is no interconnect diagram eg: P101 to jack 102 Does anyone have any pictures? or a diagram of connections? Thanks Art
After reading through the thread, it appears that I need to do the cap replacement as well. Can someone send me a photo of what the hyperboard looks like?
If you truly read through the thread, you would have seen some really good pictures man. Go back and read a little. There are tons of pictures posted here for you. Nothing in life is a shortcut. READ a little and you will find what you are looking for.
Thanks. The first several pages discussed the fix in detail, but were devoid of photos, so I assumed the rest were the same. I saw some nice pics on page 9. I'll pore through the entire thread.
No there are detailed photos that show the input panel being taken off and showing you where the Hyper module is. Look on pages 8 through 10. Here is one of the walkthroughs that is also posted.
GrizzlyBear said: Larry and Shag and everyone else, thanks for the help! I just replaced the caps on my 57hx81. All of the info you've posted on this page was real helpful. I took a few pix so if anyone needs them, PM me and I'll send them over. I found a walkthrough on another site and it was pretty helpful. I adapted that walkthrough and I've posted my own version below: 1) unplug the set and removed the rear partical board. 2) The main electronics are in a chassis. This can be removed with 3 screws. 3) remove the input panel by removing 6 screws from amongst the inputs. 4) Remove the screws holding in the DVI connector and the one nut holding in the TV tuner. 5) There are a lot of wire routing brackets. You will need to pull the wires out and get some slack to allow movement. 6) Then pull the input board. 7) Remove the plastic "bridge" by unscrewing the 4 screws. Now the Hyperboard is visible and clear of obstruction. 8) Here you have a few choices for your next step. Unplug EVERYTYHING and take the whole chassis out OR free up wires to you can get the chassis free OR do what I did, prop the chassis up (I used three plastic cups) so that you can access the bottom of the mainboard. My old man probably rolled over in his grave when he saw that I chose option three. He always told me to do things the right way but obviously, I have a listening problem. :) 9) On the bottom of the board, you will see 4 tabs that have large gobs of solder holding them in. With a large solder wick and a soldering iron, remove the solder. Then with some needle nose pliers, twist the tabs back to vertical - they are twisted slightly to hold the board in. (This part was a pain in the rear because of the option I chose in step 8 above). 10) Remove the Hyperboard and slide the metal cover off. 11) Desolder the caps (my board had 11) and solder the new ones back on. This was the most time consuming part because those suckers are TINY. 12) Reverse steps 1-10. When I fired up the set, I have to be honest that I didn't think it would work. I was sure that I didn't damage anything taking the units apart or putting them back together; that was straightforward. I just wasn't sure about my soldering job on those caps. Even though it's been years, I guess I still have my skillz because it works good as new! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
Thanks, Larry. I've copied and pasted to a Word doc, and bulletized them, so I can follow it more easily. BTW, do you know if that same procedure works for 42H83?
I also Googled surface mount soldering techniques, and I found a good video demo. I've donw a lot of soldering, but not much surface mount soldering. I build RC planes, and maybe I'll practice on some broken receivers prior to attacking this project.
Larry,
I haven't been back here in a while. So the convergence IC's are mounted near the heat sink. Does anyone have pics of this. How are the mounted, plugs, solder? Any good suppliers for the stock Toshiba/Sanyo IC's?
Hmmm...I just did the cap replacement, and now I have no picture. I need to go back in there and see if I missed connecting something. I was labeling every plug I pulled, and I vaguely remember last night that I got up to "N". This morning, when I pugged everything in, I couldn't find "N," so I figure I misremembered. So, A-M are all plugged in, and nothing. I'll need to take it all apart again, and see if I missed something.
I'm pretty sure the cap replacement itself went fine. I made sure of the polarity, and I replaced 11 caps total...
Success!! I took the TV apart again, and found that the plug that I labeled "N" was way in the back, behind some heat sink. Now the TV works great! I was so worried that I would not find such an anomaly, and that I did the cap replacement incorrectly.
During the course of removing the caps, one cap lifted up a part of the trace with it. So, I was very nervous about whether this would work or not. I did a continuity test on the trace, and it showed that it was connected to the solder joint, but still it weighed heavily on my mind. I'm so glad I don't have to break the news to my wife that we have to go shopping for a new TV. ;-)
I'm so glad I found this forum. Thanks to Larry Dillon for the advice.
shagwire said: I just found a forum on this problem they say to replace all the 10@16v. caps in the hyper module (cx261 / cx230 / cx270 / cz52 / cx178 / cx221 / c514 / cx250 / cx670 / cx241 / cx541) this is for hyper board 23148024 / 23148024p / 23148024x
I am just amazed that someone figured out that the issue was those little caps. My caps had no outward signs of problems. I'm an electronics dummy. I'm much more mechanically inclined. So, hats off to those smarter than me. ;-)
I'm attempting the hyperboard fix. I ran into my first problem removing the chassis. I have removed all connectors except one. A red wire runs from the focus adjustment on a front board to a large black plastic unit (3 inches) mounted on the main board. This unit is part circular - looks like it might house a coil - my guess. I have pulled back the rubber boots on both ends of this wire and see no way to disconnect at either end. The wire enters the black plastic part at an angle other than 90 degrees.
I am going to try the hyperboard fix I had the tech come check it out he said that is the problem 2 seconds after looking at it and he left after telling me 500 to fix. The convergence wont work I bring it up on menu and I can't get it to do anything des this have anything to do with that. I can only get a watchable pic in HD not the greatest though.
In November of last year, I posted my experience with fixing this problem. Everything was working great but 2 months ago things started getting bad again and now it is back to being really bad. My question is, is there something I missed when replacing the caps? I figured the fix would last for more then 10 months. I need to see if maybe I should use a different type of cap, try the same caps, or just give up. Here is the caps that I got last time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi all I have read every single thread on changed the copacitors on my hyper module well i have 11 the I have changed. 3 of the pads tore off when i went to take off the older copacitors so I really didn't know what to do. I don't want to have to have someone come out to fix my hyper module after getting this far so I took the pads off the spots on my hyper module that no copaciter was on to begin with. That might of been a mistake. So I also went to radio shack and found 9 radial copacitors not surface mount though 10uf 16v. The other 2 I got from there were 10uf 35v not surface mount also. I'm not sure if that was a bad thing. Next I used circuit bonding adhesive to bond the 3 pads back onto the board. Last I had to soder the copacitors back onto the hyper module. I hooked it all up and turned the TV on. I got a white screen with vertical lines across the very bottom with no sound. I had noticed that the power cord was loose when I plugged it up so i pushed it in and heard the sound kick on but still a messed up picture.
xjasz,
All capacitors are not created equally although I would recheck your circuit board repairs first. Circuit bonding adhesive may not be enough, you may need to reconnect the broken circuits with a small wire.
Capacitors come in a variety of forms. The impedance and frequency response vary with the type of dialectric.
The caps you chose may work but if you have to tear it apart again, I would suggest getting a similar capacitor as the originals.
Many thanks to everyone who posted pictures and instructions. Everything went very smoothly.
I actually checked all of the capacitors and it turns out that 2 were definitely bad and one was questionable. I replaced all eleven so I am not sure which 3 were bad.
Wow! Thanks so much to all who have posted. My question is: can you use radial capacitors in place of the surface button types? A local TV guy around here rebuilds these things all day long using 10uf 25v radial capacitors that stick out. He sys that they work great. Anyone else ever do this? Any opinions?
DBiancur said: Wow! Thanks so much to all who have posted. My question is: can you use radial capacitors in place of the surface button types? A local TV guy around here rebuilds these things all day long using 10uf 25v radial capacitors that stick out. He sys that they work great. Anyone else ever do this? Any opinions?
They should work! The Surface mount caps are really radials with a plastic base. It is much easier to resolder the radials.
Of course, the hardest thing is removing the old caps without distroying the traces.
First of all, I just want to thank all of the contributors to this site and this thread.
I have been studying this thread for a few days now and finally got the nerve to fix my 42h81. Based on everything I read on this thread, I decided the issue with mine was the bad capacitors on the hyper board. I ordered 11 new 10uf / 16v / Aluminum / Low Impedance / SM Caps from Garrett Electronics for about .60 each. They came the next day. After carefully dismantling everything, I began removing the old caps. Out of the 11 removed, 2 pads came off the board. I was able to re-attach them with a dab of super glue. After soldering the new caps on, I re-assembled everything. Frankly, I didn't think this was going to be a success. To my shock and amazement, the picture is now perfect! I forgot how crisp and beautiful the picture was after watching a ziggy, wavy, flickery picture for over a year or so.
I do have one issue I would appreciate some help with. I have no sound. I have checked all the on screen settings and the speakers are turned on. Also, the switch on the back is turned off. What could I have done to cause this? How can I troubleshoot this and fix it?
This happened to me too! I found the switch on the back was turned off.
You might have failed to connect one or more connectors on the motherboard. The audio is in the far right hand corner of the board just behind the big heatsink in the right corner. There is also a 4 pin connector on the right edge about 3 inches from the back.
Before opening it up to look, just flip the switch on the back.
Rhonda
P.S. there is also a 1 pin connector right next to the 4 pin on the right side. I believe it is a ground although I do not have a schematic!
i know most of the replies in the topic are old but i have the same problem now i know about the surface mount capacitors on the hyper board and where to get them but i was wondering if someone has a service manual or pictures of how they did it so i have a reference.. thanks
There are a lot of pictures that may be useful if you go back and read and look on this thread. I'm afraid this is not the place to find the quick easy way out. A little resource as well as a little reading, I am positive you will find what you are looking for.
Thanks for all the outstanding info. I replaced all the caps replaced the conv IC's and went to put the main board back in and I lost my map of all the connections. Does any one have any pictures or something that will show me to and from. I know I sould of marked the connections. Any help would be appreciated
You may need to get a service manual at this poit so you do not blow up the TV set.
Thanks for the responce. I have both the service manual and schmatic diagram of each card. There is no interconnect diagram eg: P101 to jack 102 Does anyone have any pictures? or a diagram of connections? Thanks Art
You need to look at the schematic and trace b where the OTHER side of the connector goes. This where experience reading a schematic comes into play.
Hello all,
After reading through the thread, it appears that I need to do the cap replacement as well. Can someone send me a photo of what the hyperboard looks like?
If you truly read through the thread, you would have seen some really good pictures man. Go back and read a little. There are tons of pictures posted here for you. Nothing in life is a shortcut. READ a little and you will find what you are looking for.
Thanks. The first several pages discussed the fix in detail, but were devoid of photos, so I assumed the rest were the same. I saw some nice pics on page 9. I'll pore through the entire thread.
No there are detailed photos that show the input panel being taken off and showing you where the Hyper module is. Look on pages 8 through 10. Here is one of the walkthroughs that is also posted.
GrizzlyBear said: Larry and Shag and everyone else, thanks for the help! I just replaced the caps on my 57hx81. All of the info you've posted on this page was real helpful. I took a few pix so if anyone needs them, PM me and I'll send them over. I found a walkthrough on another site and it was pretty helpful. I adapted that walkthrough and I've posted my own version below: 1) unplug the set and removed the rear partical board. 2) The main electronics are in a chassis. This can be removed with 3 screws. 3) remove the input panel by removing 6 screws from amongst the inputs. 4) Remove the screws holding in the DVI connector and the one nut holding in the TV tuner. 5) There are a lot of wire routing brackets. You will need to pull the wires out and get some slack to allow movement. 6) Then pull the input board. 7) Remove the plastic "bridge" by unscrewing the 4 screws. Now the Hyperboard is visible and clear of obstruction. 8) Here you have a few choices for your next step. Unplug EVERYTYHING and take the whole chassis out OR free up wires to you can get the chassis free OR do what I did, prop the chassis up (I used three plastic cups) so that you can access the bottom of the mainboard. My old man probably rolled over in his grave when he saw that I chose option three. He always told me to do things the right way but obviously, I have a listening problem. :) 9) On the bottom of the board, you will see 4 tabs that have large gobs of solder holding them in. With a large solder wick and a soldering iron, remove the solder. Then with some needle nose pliers, twist the tabs back to vertical - they are twisted slightly to hold the board in. (This part was a pain in the rear because of the option I chose in step 8 above). 10) Remove the Hyperboard and slide the metal cover off. 11) Desolder the caps (my board had 11) and solder the new ones back on. This was the most time consuming part because those suckers are TINY. 12) Reverse steps 1-10. When I fired up the set, I have to be honest that I didn't think it would work. I was sure that I didn't damage anything taking the units apart or putting them back together; that was straightforward. I just wasn't sure about my soldering job on those caps. Even though it's been years, I guess I still have my skillz because it works good as new! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
Thanks, Larry. I've copied and pasted to a Word doc, and bulletized them, so I can follow it more easily. BTW, do you know if that same procedure works for 42H83?
I also Googled surface mount soldering techniques, and I found a good video demo. I've donw a lot of soldering, but not much surface mount soldering. I build RC planes, and maybe I'll practice on some broken receivers prior to attacking this project.
Larry,
I haven't been back here in a while. So the convergence IC's are mounted near the heat sink. Does anyone have pics of this. How are the mounted, plugs, solder? Any good suppliers for the stock Toshiba/Sanyo IC's?
v/r
Pistol
They are mounted right on the heat sink as they get very hot. you can get the original IC's from http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/index.html
I don't know if this has been posted before, but this site has some great video tutorials on desoldering, and surface mount soldering.
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/
Hmmm...I just did the cap replacement, and now I have no picture. I need to go back in there and see if I missed connecting something. I was labeling every plug I pulled, and I vaguely remember last night that I got up to "N". This morning, when I pugged everything in, I couldn't find "N," so I figure I misremembered. So, A-M are all plugged in, and nothing. I'll need to take it all apart again, and see if I missed something.
I'm pretty sure the cap replacement itself went fine. I made sure of the polarity, and I replaced 11 caps total...
Success!! I took the TV apart again, and found that the plug that I labeled "N" was way in the back, behind some heat sink. Now the TV works great! I was so worried that I would not find such an anomaly, and that I did the cap replacement incorrectly.
During the course of removing the caps, one cap lifted up a part of the trace with it. So, I was very nervous about whether this would work or not. I did a continuity test on the trace, and it showed that it was connected to the solder joint, but still it weighed heavily on my mind. I'm so glad I don't have to break the news to my wife that we have to go shopping for a new TV. ;-)
I'm so glad I found this forum. Thanks to Larry Dillon for the advice.
The part I wonder about is, how did anyone figure out the issue was those 11 10 uF caps? My old caps no outer signs of deterioration at all.
One of our early memebers shared this with us.
I am just amazed that someone figured out that the issue was those little caps. My caps had no outward signs of problems. I'm an electronics dummy. I'm much more mechanically inclined. So, hats off to those smarter than me. ;-)
Well if you know the board is bad, you open it up and start checking things like capacitors with a capacitor ESR test meter
I'm attempting the hyperboard fix. I ran into my first problem removing the chassis. I have removed all connectors except one. A red wire runs from the focus adjustment on a front board to a large black plastic unit (3 inches) mounted on the main board. This unit is part circular - looks like it might house a coil - my guess. I have pulled back the rubber boots on both ends of this wire and see no way to disconnect at either end. The wire enters the black plastic part at an angle other than 90 degrees.
I am going to try the hyperboard fix I had the tech come check it out he said that is the problem 2 seconds after looking at it and he left after telling me 500 to fix. The convergence wont work I bring it up on menu and I can't get it to do anything des this have anything to do with that. I can only get a watchable pic in HD not the greatest though.
In November of last year, I posted my experience with fixing this problem. Everything was working great but 2 months ago things started getting bad again and now it is back to being really bad. My question is, is there something I missed when replacing the caps? I figured the fix would last for more then 10 months. I need to see if maybe I should use a different type of cap, try the same caps, or just give up. Here is the caps that I got last time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Gregg
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/31-8210
Hi all I have read every single thread on changed the copacitors on my hyper module well i have 11 the I have changed. 3 of the pads tore off when i went to take off the older copacitors so I really didn't know what to do. I don't want to have to have someone come out to fix my hyper module after getting this far so I took the pads off the spots on my hyper module that no copaciter was on to begin with. That might of been a mistake. So I also went to radio shack and found 9 radial copacitors not surface mount though 10uf 16v. The other 2 I got from there were 10uf 35v not surface mount also. I'm not sure if that was a bad thing. Next I used circuit bonding adhesive to bond the 3 pads back onto the board. Last I had to soder the copacitors back onto the hyper module. I hooked it all up and turned the TV on. I got a white screen with vertical lines across the very bottom with no sound. I had noticed that the power cord was loose when I plugged it up so i pushed it in and heard the sound kick on but still a messed up picture.
xjasz,
All capacitors are not created equally although I would recheck your circuit board repairs first. Circuit bonding adhesive may not be enough, you may need to reconnect the broken circuits with a small wire.
Capacitors come in a variety of forms. The impedance and frequency response vary with the type of dialectric.
The caps you chose may work but if you have to tear it apart again, I would suggest getting a similar capacitor as the originals.
Good luck,
Rhonda
Many thanks to everyone who posted pictures and instructions. Everything went very smoothly.
I actually checked all of the capacitors and it turns out that 2 were definitely bad and one was questionable. I replaced all eleven so I am not sure which 3 were bad.
I have a beautiful picture now!
Thanks again!
Rhonda
Wow! Thanks so much to all who have posted. My question is: can you use radial capacitors in place of the surface button types? A local TV guy around here rebuilds these things all day long using 10uf 25v radial capacitors that stick out. He sys that they work great. Anyone else ever do this? Any opinions?
They should work! The Surface mount caps are really radials with a plastic base. It is much easier to resolder the radials.
Of course, the hardest thing is removing the old caps without distroying the traces.
First of all, I just want to thank all of the contributors to this site and this thread.
I have been studying this thread for a few days now and finally got the nerve to fix my 42h81. Based on everything I read on this thread, I decided the issue with mine was the bad capacitors on the hyper board. I ordered 11 new 10uf / 16v / Aluminum / Low Impedance / SM Caps from Garrett Electronics for about .60 each. They came the next day. After carefully dismantling everything, I began removing the old caps. Out of the 11 removed, 2 pads came off the board. I was able to re-attach them with a dab of super glue. After soldering the new caps on, I re-assembled everything. Frankly, I didn't think this was going to be a success. To my shock and amazement, the picture is now perfect! I forgot how crisp and beautiful the picture was after watching a ziggy, wavy, flickery picture for over a year or so.
I do have one issue I would appreciate some help with. I have no sound. I have checked all the on screen settings and the speakers are turned on. Also, the switch on the back is turned off. What could I have done to cause this? How can I troubleshoot this and fix it?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!!!
Donnie England,
This happened to me too! I found the switch on the back was turned off.
You might have failed to connect one or more connectors on the motherboard. The audio is in the far right hand corner of the board just behind the big heatsink in the right corner. There is also a 4 pin connector on the right edge about 3 inches from the back.
Before opening it up to look, just flip the switch on the back.
Rhonda
P.S. there is also a 1 pin connector right next to the 4 pin on the right side. I believe it is a ground although I do not have a schematic!
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