good luck man, also make sure the DM is seated correctly and all the way down into the connectors on the bottom of the board, try to install the board first without the outer metal case, then once yo vrify it is seated corretly install th metal covwr around the DM , GOOD LUCK.
I have a WS-65813 that was diagnosed with a digital signal board & voltage regulator problem by a tech. The charge to fix it was 929. I'll either fix it myself or get a new set. Any help, reference materials, or resources would be greatly appreciated.
Add me to the list too - email to my username at yahoo .. I've got my TV apart but can't get the DM module out, even with all the screws removed..
Question - could the service manual and instructions for repairing the DM module not be posted to the resources section? Is there liability there?
Thanks!
..a
.. reading through, it sounds like the shield/case comes off separate from the board itself? What's holding it to the board besides the screws? (two on back, one on each side through PCB, and two on top near USB and i1394 connectors)
When I try to pull the case up, the board it's mated to is trying to come up as well..
..a
Hey all - I followed Larrys instructions and replaced the caps on my DM board. I can't believe it worked. After plugging the TV back in it took approx 45 seconds for the light to stop blinking. I pressed the power button, and . . .IT WORKED! MY TV CAME BACK ON!!!!!
Thanks Larry, and thanks Techlore!
elfguy - When I removed the screws on the shield casing I had to rock the case back and forth while lifting upward before the case came off. It took some work because I was nervous about applying to much force and eventually breaking something else. The board (on my set anyway) was very easy to lift out once the shield case was free. You will need to apply a bit of pressure because I found that there was some sort of adhesive that broke loose on the top of the DM board around the firewire and USB ports (something like fiber that surrounds the two ports). When it pulled free, some of the fiber material came off the DM board and stuck to the upper inside of the shield case. I believe that this was what was making it difficult to pull the shield case off of the board.
That did it, Rick - and same issue, foam shield material was stuck to the top. Also, wiggling side to side loosened it up. Thanks!!
So, the board is out, and the only non-solid-state capacitors on the board are the four 1000uF 16V electrolytics.
Posted a pic at http:/www.willetts.net/DSCF3404s.JPG
I've seen info to replace with 680uF 16V and also 1000uF 25V - which should I do? Wondering if I could source solid-state caps locally. I'm going to look at some older PC motherboards and video cards to see if could harvest some there..
Edit: Put this thread in print view and found the info I need - 16V OR 25V 1000uf 105C - the temp being important. Time to rummage.. :)
..a
The caps that Mitzubisi used are cheap (janco brand or something like that). I used 1000uf 35V. Follow the instructs and don't buy them at Radio Shack. If you don't have another source, I would get them from digikey and to be safe, use the recommended panasonic part no and don't try robbing them from an old computer board (you have an expensive TV, don't jack it up more by replacing faulty parts with faulty parts. The other thing that was hard for me to do was sucking the old solder to open up the holes on the DM board so I could replace the defective caps with the new ones. One of the mounts gave me some issues and I could not remove the solder from the hole (with a wick or solder sucker). I finally heated the solder and pushed the new cap thru (I don't know if that is a good practice or not, but that's how I did it). Also, as the instructions state, make sure you get the new caps mounted as close as possible to the board because they are a bit larger and taller than the original caps (if you don't, you'll have a problem getting the shield case back on) Jeez . . I almost sound like I know what I'm talking about. Just follow the instructions . . . If I can do this, anyone can. I borrowed a friends low heat soldering gun, solder and wick.
I also just ordered 6 ea P12366-ND & P12379-ND from digi-key - Panasonic 1000uF in 16V and 25V styles - these are 5000hrs @ 105C, the best I could find there. $30 including 2nd-day shipping.
..a
I also have a continuously blinking green light. WS-65613. Can you please send the manual, repair instructions and, if you have it, sources for purchasing the capacitors on-line?
Thank you very much for your help,
Sam E.
I also have a continuously blinking green light. WS-65613. Can you please send the manual, repair instructions and, if you have it, sources for purchasing the capacitors on-line?
Thank you very much for your help,
Sam E.
Glad I found your forum! I have had a WS-65813 for 5 years this November and never had a problem with the blinking green light of death until two days ago. Can you please send me the manual and email me the instructions for replacing the DM module. I absolutely love this set & would like to get it fixed soonest. MY email is [email protected].
whats th e-mail as yo never left it. I eally do not have the tim to look for it as yo stated to look above for the email, ten you wanted us to asemble your own e-mail. . yes I know it is trivial but this takes a lot of time to keep up with everyones requests.
I have a WS-65813 with constant blinking light. Can you please send me instructions to . I have ordered caps from Centerpointe Electronics which should be here tomorrow and I'm watching the World Series on a 23" TV right now :(
Sorry, Larry.
I just work in internet security and harvesting email addresses on public forum postings is how many spam bots operate.
Mine is (deleted) - I'll delete this as soon as you send it.
Thanks again for the great info.
..a
Got it, Larry, thanks a million! I'm expecting the caps from digi-key today and will hopefully have my TV back tonight.
Is there some sort of class action against Mitsu on this? I can't believe they can get away with a 3-yr life expectancy on a $5000 TV. My $500 Sony 27" CRT is 14 years old now. Was against my better judgement to buy this one, but the salesman at HiFi Buys talked me into it..
..a
Well, fedex bumbled the delivery so I had to drive out to get the package myself. Wife had dinner ready when I got back, then replaced the caps (guessing it's an ROHS-compliant solder on there as I needed a larger tip on my 25W iron than I'd usually use for this kind of work. Anyway, 5 minutes of soldering and 15 minutes of reassembly later, plus the most agonizing minute I've ever had waiting for the initial blinking to quit - and tada! It's back up and running!
:)
Another happy customer. Larry, thanks again for providing this resource! You're doing a good thing for a lot of people..
..a
[email protected] thanks
I just started having the blinking power button problem today. Please send info for a WS-65813 to [email protected]
Thanks
John
I received the instructions and was able to get the DM board out. Thanks Larry, I will let you know how the repair went and if it fixes the problem.
Rick
good luck man, also make sure the DM is seated correctly and all the way down into the connectors on the bottom of the board, try to install the board first without the outer metal case, then once yo vrify it is seated corretly install th metal covwr around the DM , GOOD LUCK.
I also have a Mitsubishi WS-65813 with the blinking light of death. Larry, can you send instructions to [email protected] ?
Thanks
Wren
I have a WS-65813 that was diagnosed with a digital signal board & voltage regulator problem by a tech. The charge to fix it was 929. I'll either fix it myself or get a new set. Any help, reference materials, or resources would be greatly appreciated.
[email protected]
Add me to the list too - email to my username at yahoo .. I've got my TV apart but can't get the DM module out, even with all the screws removed..
Question - could the service manual and instructions for repairing the DM module not be posted to the resources section? Is there liability there?
Thanks!
..a
Pretty please? :) Desperate to get this back together..
..a
.. reading through, it sounds like the shield/case comes off separate from the board itself? What's holding it to the board besides the screws? (two on back, one on each side through PCB, and two on top near USB and i1394 connectors)
When I try to pull the case up, the board it's mated to is trying to come up as well..
..a
Hey all - I followed Larrys instructions and replaced the caps on my DM board. I can't believe it worked. After plugging the TV back in it took approx 45 seconds for the light to stop blinking. I pressed the power button, and . . .IT WORKED! MY TV CAME BACK ON!!!!!
Thanks Larry, and thanks Techlore!
elfguy - When I removed the screws on the shield casing I had to rock the case back and forth while lifting upward before the case came off. It took some work because I was nervous about applying to much force and eventually breaking something else. The board (on my set anyway) was very easy to lift out once the shield case was free. You will need to apply a bit of pressure because I found that there was some sort of adhesive that broke loose on the top of the DM board around the firewire and USB ports (something like fiber that surrounds the two ports). When it pulled free, some of the fiber material came off the DM board and stuck to the upper inside of the shield case. I believe that this was what was making it difficult to pull the shield case off of the board.
Thanks again Larry, and Techlore!
Rick
That did it, Rick - and same issue, foam shield material was stuck to the top. Also, wiggling side to side loosened it up. Thanks!!
So, the board is out, and the only non-solid-state capacitors on the board are the four 1000uF 16V electrolytics.
Posted a pic at http:/www.willetts.net/DSCF3404s.JPG
I've seen info to replace with 680uF 16V and also 1000uF 25V - which should I do? Wondering if I could source solid-state caps locally. I'm going to look at some older PC motherboards and video cards to see if could harvest some there..
Edit: Put this thread in print view and found the info I need - 16V OR 25V 1000uf 105C - the temp being important. Time to rummage.. :)
..a
The caps that Mitzubisi used are cheap (janco brand or something like that). I used 1000uf 35V. Follow the instructs and don't buy them at Radio Shack. If you don't have another source, I would get them from digikey and to be safe, use the recommended panasonic part no and don't try robbing them from an old computer board (you have an expensive TV, don't jack it up more by replacing faulty parts with faulty parts. The other thing that was hard for me to do was sucking the old solder to open up the holes on the DM board so I could replace the defective caps with the new ones. One of the mounts gave me some issues and I could not remove the solder from the hole (with a wick or solder sucker). I finally heated the solder and pushed the new cap thru (I don't know if that is a good practice or not, but that's how I did it). Also, as the instructions state, make sure you get the new caps mounted as close as possible to the board because they are a bit larger and taller than the original caps (if you don't, you'll have a problem getting the shield case back on) Jeez . . I almost sound like I know what I'm talking about. Just follow the instructions . . . If I can do this, anyone can. I borrowed a friends low heat soldering gun, solder and wick.
Thanks Again Larry!
Rick
I don't have the instructions! Larry didn't send them yet. My email is above - can you send to me, Rick?
We have a Frys in town, I think I can get them there. Struck out on my old PC parts bin..
..a
elfguy, send me your email addy [email protected]
Rick
Done.
I also just ordered 6 ea P12366-ND & P12379-ND from digi-key - Panasonic 1000uF in 16V and 25V styles - these are 5000hrs @ 105C, the best I could find there. $30 including 2nd-day shipping.
..a
Wow . . . The cost must have been all shipping. Can you see the slight bulge on the original caps???
Good Luck!
R
Yup (both on bulges and on shipping).. :)
can someone send me the service manual for the Mitsubishi WS-65813.
Thanks
I also have a continuously blinking green light. WS-65613. Can you please send the manual, repair instructions and, if you have it, sources for purchasing the capacitors on-line?
Thank you very much for your help,
Sam E.
I also have a continuously blinking green light. WS-65613. Can you please send the manual, repair instructions and, if you have it, sources for purchasing the capacitors on-line?
Thank you very much for your help,
Sam E.
Hi Larry,
Glad I found your forum! I have had a WS-65813 for 5 years this November and never had a problem with the blinking green light of death until two days ago. Can you please send me the manual and email me the instructions for replacing the DM module. I absolutely love this set & would like to get it fixed soonest. MY email is [email protected].
Thanks in advance for all your help!
Rick and/or Larry, I still never received this..
..a
whats th e-mail as yo never left it. I eally do not have the tim to look for it as yo stated to look above for the email, ten you wanted us to asemble your own e-mail. . yes I know it is trivial but this takes a lot of time to keep up with everyones requests.
Thanks for this great forum - can you please send the instructions/diagrams you have for this fix to [email protected]
Thanks!
I have a WS-65813 with constant blinking light. Can you please send me instructions to . I have ordered caps from Centerpointe Electronics which should be here tomorrow and I'm watching the World Series on a 23" TV right now :(
Thanks for the great forum!
Sorry, Larry.
I just work in internet security and harvesting email addresses on public forum postings is how many spam bots operate.
Mine is (deleted) - I'll delete this as soon as you send it.
Thanks again for the great info.
..a
Got it, Larry, thanks a million! I'm expecting the caps from digi-key today and will hopefully have my TV back tonight.
Is there some sort of class action against Mitsu on this? I can't believe they can get away with a 3-yr life expectancy on a $5000 TV. My $500 Sony 27" CRT is 14 years old now. Was against my better judgement to buy this one, but the salesman at HiFi Buys talked me into it..
..a
Well, fedex bumbled the delivery so I had to drive out to get the package myself. Wife had dinner ready when I got back, then replaced the caps (guessing it's an ROHS-compliant solder on there as I needed a larger tip on my 25W iron than I'd usually use for this kind of work. Anyway, 5 minutes of soldering and 15 minutes of reassembly later, plus the most agonizing minute I've ever had waiting for the initial blinking to quit - and tada! It's back up and running!
:)
Another happy customer. Larry, thanks again for providing this resource! You're doing a good thing for a lot of people..
..a
So glad to hear you fixed the tv set, AND thanks also to you.
Hello,
I have the same blinking light issue on my WS48613. Can you send me the information on how to fix it. My email is [email protected]
Thanks
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