Mitsubishi convergence IC's used in the differant models

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raygr
raygr's picture
i have a mitsu model wt

i have a mitsu model wt 46809 the picture gets whitish at time. i shut it off for a few seconds turn it back on, and its good, great colar and sound.. is it fixable

RK3000
RK3000's picture
Hello all,

Hello all,

I thought I could handle my convergence problem myself but I made a big mistake while removing the pc board from the TV, I cracked it :-(. Can a new board be ordered? If so where? I have a 55" Mitsubishi, model # WS-55411.

flagstaff
flagstaff's picture
Larry I have a Mitsubishi 65"

Larry I have a Mitsubishi 65" WS-65809 and the blue and red are bowing and i go into the advanced convergence and it doesnt work is there anyway to fix it for preferably cheap i would like to know.

dkm7237
dkm7237's picture
Good Evening,

Good Evening,
A friend just gave me his old TV. It is a Mitsubishi WT-42315. He told me that about 4 inches of the screen on the left side was messed up, but the rest of the picture was fine. I hooked everything up and sure enough, the left side is all blue. Also, it has a weird 3-D effect (Shadows) throughout the screen. After some research, I have learned that the 3-D look is a problem with the convergence. I adjusted through the TV, but I cannot shift the red convergence right or left, only up and down. I am 99% sure I will need to replace the convergence board, but my questions is, will this also fix the problem with the left side of the screen or is that another issue entirely. If you can help, I would really appreciate it as I am on a budget and really need an idea on what this will cost me. My email is dkmccreight@yahoo.com. Thank you for your help.

TommyGunn1
TommyGunn1's picture
Hi Larry would you be kind

Hi Larry would you be kind enough to email me out a fix for my blinking green light on my Mitsubishi WS65711 65 inch TV. It was caused fromn a power surge.

Sure would appreciate it.

Thanks Tom Reese

email: treese1074@aol.com
714 345-2611

dkm7237
dkm7237's picture
dkm7237 said: Good Evening,

dkm7237 said: Good Evening, A friend just gave me his old TV. It is a Mitsubishi WT-42315. He told me that about 4 inches of the screen on the left side was messed up, but the rest of the picture was fine. I hooked everything up and sure enough, the left side is all blue. Also, it has a weird 3-D effect (Shadows) throughout the screen. After some research, I have learned that the 3-D look is a problem with the convergence. I adjusted through the TV, but I cannot shift the red convergence right or left, only up and down. I am 99% sure I will need to replace the convergence board, but my questions is, will this also fix the problem with the left side of the screen or is that another issue entirely. If you can help, I would really appreciate it as I am on a budget and really need an idea on what this will cost me. My email is dkmccreight@yahoo.com. Thank you for your help.

I just wanted to follow up in regards to my previous post. Through this site I came across some recomendations for a company called tvrepairkits.com. I explained the problem to them and they sent me new convergence boards for my TV along with thorough instructions on how to do the repair. I practiced my soldering for a few days and then recieved the parts. I followed the instructions, put the new chips in and voila, I was watching my "broken" tv within a couple of hours. I was quoted prices to fix the tv anywhere from $350 to $500. I fixed my TV by myself with their help all for around $90 or so. I could not be happier. My TV works like brand new again and I just wanted to let everyone know how awesome the guys over at tvrepairkits.com were. Very timely and very responsive to all of my questions. I have absolutely no experience in doing these types of repairs, and I must say I was very proud of fixing this problem myself. Do not pay hundreds of dollars to have someone fix your set. You can do it yourself for much less!

Ryan1234
Ryan1234's picture
Hello,

Hello,

I have a Mitsubishi WS-55411.
I push the power button and it turns on and right back off.
The code it is giving is 2-1.
So far from research it is most likely the convergence IC's. Other possibilities seem to be loose wires/connections, broken solder points on the IC's, flyback ect. or blown fuse.
Any help in narrowing down the search will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Ryan.

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
I has the same code on my

I has the same code on my ws65909 and the only problem was I had a blown pico fuse. However something had to make the fuse blow so I went and re placed everything in the kit just to be sure.

TommyGunn1
TommyGunn1's picture
Hey Larry I have a WS65711

Hey Larry I have a WS65711 Mitsu. I took your advice and bought the blinking green light repair kit for exactly 45.90 out the door from www.tvrepairkits.com I did all the 7 capacitor replacements and still the dreaded blinking green light remains. Any ideas as to what I can try next. This all started from a power surge at my home. Thanks Tom

treese1074@aol.com

dtermined1
dtermined1's picture
hey- I have the mits vs-60609

hey- I have the mits vs-60609 60 inch. When i power it up, it goes back off within say 5-7 secs. I hold the input and menu buttons down for 5 secs and get a code reading of 21. This is the x-ray protect, correct? If yes, how do i repair this?? Cannot find any info on how to fix it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Shad

Ryan1234
Ryan1234's picture
I have the same issue on my

I have the same issue on my ws-55411. I would realy like to know how be diagnose and fix this problem. Does anyone know where I can start?

Ryan1234
Ryan1234's picture
I have checked the fuses and

I have checked the fuses and they are all good. What else can I check to find out why I am getting a 2-1 error code?

jcrr
jcrr's picture
Last year my mitsu ws65857

Last year my mitsu ws65857 worked OK. But now, No video image and distorted captions and no menu.
Sound OK, and Diagnostic code 12
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRq18k5uhWc
I replace Convergence IC ( IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570, IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570)
I check the fuses ( F9A04,F9A05, etc), all OK
I check all the resistors and the 2 coils, all OK
but the problem persists...
Any Ideas?
Thanks in advance

lpreston
lpreston's picture
My Mitsubishi VS-50707 shuts

My Mitsubishi VS-50707 shuts off, it will restart after about 20 minutes but will shut off again at some point. Please advise. I'm pulling my hair out.

Ken123456
Ken123456's picture
I think I ruined my circuit

I think I ruined my circuit board when soldering the new convergence IC chip (STK393-110) back in place. I have been looking for another used board out of another TV(WS-65511). From looking at your web site info, am I correct in believing that MODELS: WS-48511 / WS-55511 / WS-55711 / WS-65511 / WS-65611 / WS-65711 / WS-65712 / WS-73711 / WS-B55 are all interchangeable for this center board?

Thanks,
Ken

grios
grios's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,
I was reading some of your posts. My mother-in-law has a Mitsubishi WS-55511 that has the blinking light of death. I was wondering if you still had the instructions and schematics to replace the capacitors? Thanks in advance.

grios
grios's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,
My Mother-in-law has a Mitsubishi WS-55511 that has the green blinking light of death. I was wondering if you still have the instructions and schematics to fix this problem.

Mike Diyer
Mike Diyer's picture
I have a WS-48513 that had

I have a WS-48513 that had the blinking green light issue. I replaced the caps and it seemed to be working fine until one day while playing XBOX 360, the screen went black. I still have sound. It still powers up and I can hear it click, but no picture or even menu. The error code check comes back as 12 or no-error. The bottom of the lamps glow, so it looks like they're getting power. Thanks in advance... Mike

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
Mike,

Mike,

Have you tried switching inputs? Do you still have no picture?

Mike Diyer
Mike Diyer's picture
Chris, thanks for the

Chris, thanks for the response.
I don't have a menu, but I can blindly change the video device input using the front panel buttons until a device comes up with sound. I have sound, just no picture. Iit's almost as if something is unplugged, but I couldn't find anything. The DM board seems to be inserted and working correctly, but perhaps I should take it back out and reinsert it, would doing that reset anything?

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
Mike,

Mike,

You should take a look at the DM unit and see if there are any bulging capacitors in the power portion. I't possible that it's not enough to throw a code but will still not power on the guns that show the picture. You should do a scan of the other PCB's and look for bulging/blown caps as well. Any on of them could be causing your problem. Time for some hunting!

Mike Diyer
Mike Diyer's picture
Chris,

Chris,

When I replaced the (4) caps on the DM board, I was a little confused as the instructions stated to replace the 16V 85C ones with 35V 105C however the picture showed 16V 105C. The board already had 16V 105C caps on it and the parts guy suggested replacing them with the same ones. Is there an advantage to using 35V instead, and will they even fit in there? Thanks,

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
You should always replace

You should always replace caps with ones of the same voltage. The difference between the 85c and the 105 c is the temps they can handle. I have no idea why they would have told you to replace 16 volt caps with 35v caps as the potential over voltage could cause a problem. As for fit, I believe the posts are all the same size so they should fit without issue. I recommend you get the 35v caps out of your set and put the 16v 105c caps in. It's possible this voltage imbalance is what's causing your issue, or it has created another one that is going to have to be traced out by a pro.

Have you run a multimeter on any of your fuses? A blown pico fuse could be why your picture isnt working but I would think that would throw an error code. The hard part is that there are so many things that can go wrong with these tv's that only the most common issues are talked about here.

Mike Diyer
Mike Diyer's picture
Thanks for your help Chris, I

Thanks for your help Chris, I'll check it out and let you know.

Mikeysoft1
Mikeysoft1's picture
Larry,

Larry,
I have a Mitsubishi ws-65909 that you helped me fix a problem with the capacitors
and the blinking green light, again thank you for that.
TV worked fine for 10 months, now when I power it on the green light stays on for 3
seconds and goes off.
Thank you,
mike Harrington
edefense@hotmail.com

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
Mikeysoft1

Mikeysoft1

Had the same issue with my 65909 and it's the dm unit in need of replacing some caps and fuses.

Chris2ferz
Chris2ferz's picture
My set is model WS-65511 and

My set is model WS-65511 and I am having random shutdowns from the set that range from a few seconds to a couple hours. After each shutdown the power light will flash for about 45 seconds to 1 minute upon which I get error code 1,2 which is supposed to mean OK or power supply issue.

In 2008 i replaced the DM power board capacitors which measured around 300uf so they were in need of replacement. I replaced them again a week ago but they meausured around 800-900uf which was some wear but probably not enough to be causing symptoms yet.

So far I have checked the power deflection board for solder cracks or any signs of excessive heat. I did not find anything unusual visually or after checking the capacitors on that board.

I also checked the next board with the single convergence IC. ( i call it the vertical board but that might not be correct ) its the middle board. I did find a few issues with this board and replaced 3 caps. One was completely dead with a visible bulge and measured in circuit after I pulled it. One of the other caps was replaced because it measured way too high. I had not seen a cap read so much higher than its original value. It was a 680uf and read 1200uf. It was in the same ciruit as the failed capacitor which was bulged so I figured that was the primary reason.

I then replaced the cap right behind the vertical fin heat sink for the convergence IC which was because it had an esr of 8.0 ohms
and i would get different high esr readings from this cap ranging from 5-10 ohms so that's why I replaced that one.

The yoke connections on the bulbs look great so I don't suspect anything there. I know a bad joint on the yoke for the bulbs can cause the set to shut off but usually not with a flashing green light afterwards.

I looked over the DM module pretty good as I have taken it apart right to the board and could not find anything. I did only check one cap on the main board and it tested OK. I didn't pursue any other tests but I'm thinking at this point its either the signal board or the DM module OR probably the SMPS which would cause an issue to both with one problem being the cause. Which would explain the lack of an error code with the dm module rebooted.

I have experimented with the set and have found that if the DM module is unplugged from the center board ( where I think it gets its power from ) for a duration of time then it has trouble coming up and I have to push the reset button a few times before the light will stop flashing. If it keeps power then the light will flash for the usual 45 seconds and the tv can turn on. I have also had times where the light stops flashing and then within a minute it starts flashing again without touching anything. I noticed when the tv was unplugged it would not come up right away since the flashing light but i didn't know if it was because of the DM module or one of the other boards which is why I unplugged the DM it to see if that was part of the problem.

The way I can keep the set up the longest which is around 2 hours
is to power up the set and then after a few minutes pull the VA plug that connects the DM module to the signal board. Even though it tends
to stay up much longer it does eventually shut down. This could be taking a load off the weakened power supply allowing the tv to run longer. The set was fine until it was not used for about a month. It remained plugged in but was not powered on. The set has been on for 99% of its life prior to that. I rarely shut it off for any length of time.

Anyone have any thoughts? I would greatly appreciate it since I've put alot
of time into this set and don't want to junk it if I can avoid it

*edit* found around 56vdc leaking to ground in the smps
wondering if a diode has gone bad to cause some of this

Ryan1234
Ryan1234's picture
Can anyone help with a 2-1

Can anyone help with a 2-1 error code? Fuses are fine, tested lots of caps in circuit and they seem ok, checked diodes in circuit and they seem ok. I'm blindly attacking the problem at this point. All I know is a 2-1 error is something about an x-ray circuit issue. I don't know what or where that is. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Bethelittiss
Bethelittiss's picture
I have a mitsubishi 65 inch

I have a mitsubishi 65 inch ws something projection tv, with blinking green front timer light. Can you send me the fix @ bethelittiss@gmail.com , I would tell you the whole model# but I can't find it. I'm willing to try replacing the caps. Thanks in advance Larry

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
Larry doesn't just mail fix

Larry doesn't just mail fix it kits. You need to go to the site, order and pay for it.

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