Mitsubishi convergence IC's used in the differant models

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Ryan1234
Ryan1234's picture
Hmmmm, if only he could

Hmmmm, if only he could answer my question and tell my which "fix it kit" to order. Or at least tell me my problem is beyond his knowledge. Been searching for an answer for three months. Next week the tv goes to the dump. Anyone want to take a shot at answering why I have a 2-1 error code?

Chris Kuhner
Chris Kuhner's picture
Ryan, I would order the cap

Ryan, I would order the cap kit and go at replacing them. It's a relatively cheap try.

RyanC007
RyanC007's picture
Hey there,

Hey there,

Hoping someone is checking this forum as it looks like a great resource to get some help on Mits TV. Issues. I have a WS-65611 Set and have recently had Multicolored "Specs" and or little black horizontal lines show up on the display and I cant tell if this is a convergence issue or Pixels going bad??
Here are some photos: Can someone let me know if replacing the Convergence IC will fix this issue? Your comments are appreciated!

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i387/ryancoy/DSC00078.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i387/ryancoy/DSC00071.jpg

ssully91
ssully91's picture
I have a Mitsubishi WT-42311

I have a Mitsubishi WT-42311 and when I view a
Problem with the Mitsubishi WT-42311 42 in. Rear Projection Television
I have a Mitsubishi WT-42311 and when I view a channel (sat. service by Direct TV) that is in HD my picture is fine. When I try to view a channel that is not in HD my picture is a rolling screen. I can't play any DVD, or video games w/o having the same problem. I tried pluggin in the DVD / video game console using differnet inputs but it doesn't matter. Any ideas???

halzey68
halzey68's picture
my brother just gave me his

my brother just gave me his 65809 when he moved because it wouldnt turn on. When i opened up the back panel. I was horrified to see the coating of dust, dog hair ect.. all over the circuit boards. At least a 1/4 inch thick . You couldnt even see most of the components. I have thoroughly cleaned the boards. I found the F9A05 5amp pico fuse open. Couldnt the dirty boards cause the fuse to blow ? And not the IC's ? I have ordered the pico's and STK392-570 . Any tips  or thoughts? Thanks in advance

 

Enasniclown
Enasniclown's picture
Will someone please hepl

Will someone please hepl this tv is driving me nuts. i have a wd52525 and i am having the green timer light issue, which form seein everything on here leads to the dm board. so i bought a new dm board took everything apart and but the new one in and still same problem. what next ? If i bought a remanufactured chassis would i definetly be on the road to watching tv ?

Danielinbh
Danielinbh's picture
Larry,

Larry,
I have a WS-65909 and the light continues to blink. I did not see the fix info under the resources. Can you help please? My email is danielinbh@yahoo.com

Thanks

evil
evil's picture
Larry is no longer with us

Larry is no longer with us

http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/30723/Farewell-Larry/

You will have to make a new thread.

Jerry Fred
Jerry Fred's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

I have a Mitsubishi 65" big screen TV model WS_65903. I need to sell this TV, and I would like to know how to separate the top part of cabinet from the bottom cabinet in order to transport it. I understand the complete set weighs about 375 pounds. Can you advise on how to separate the two pieces. Thanks very much.

evil
evil's picture
You risk doing more damage to

You risk doing more damage to it taking it apart than not.

jimcollins
jimcollins's picture
Hey how is it going guys?

Hey how is it going guys?

I just received a ws-55807.
When I first got it I ran the diagnostic and got the 2-2 error code, which happens to be a convergence problem. This is located on the main board.

What you need to do to fix this is replace the two STK392-570's attached to the main heat sink with thermal compound. Important!!!!!!! When you replace these two IC's you must replace the two pico fuses!!!! F9A04 and F9A05. They are two 5 amp pico fuses on the opposite side of the board.

I understand your frustration Smorris, I'm a communications tech in the military but have faith. You were given all the basic troubleshooting techniques and electrical knowledge.

Now comes the part where I am stuck at. I replaced the two ic chips and the two fuses. I ran the diagnostic again, but this time I got a 2-3 error code. This apparently is a deflection problem.

I checked the solder joints on both the IC's that were replaced as well as the joints on the yokes.

I've been through many a site trying to diagnose a problem. I've seen a possible diode out, resistor out, and all kinds of various things. However, I am unsure. If anyone can help me out on this it would be greatly appreciate it.

Stay technical my friends.

evil
evil's picture
I've seen more than a few

I've seen more than a few with a deflection problem caused by the potentiometers on the hi voltage block.

helpfulfriend
helpfulfriend's picture
Do you know where I could get

Do you know where I could get the protector screen part for a Mitsubishi 50 inch flat screen model number VS-60609? Any help is appreciated.

evil
evil's picture
try shop jimmy. You could

try shop jimmy. You could also look up the part number from the parts breakdown in the service manual and search for it by the part number.

Katielynnu
Katielynnu's picture
Hi I have a Mitsubishi WS

Hi I have a Mitsubishi WS-73907. I did the blink code test and its blink blink pause blink blink. I read about it and it says it could be a convergence issue but I have no idea what fuse that is or how to go about fixing it if its even worth it. But I love this tv and want to find out what my options are. The tv clicks like its going to come on then turns off just as fast. If anyone has similar problems and can give some help that would be greatly appreciated. I have no real idea about fixing tv's. thanks.

evil
evil's picture
Check fuse F90A4 You may want

Check fuse F90A4 You may want to use the link below to order a convergence repair kit for your model upon discovering the fuse is bad. The replacement kit comes with new fuses and everything you will need. To find which board this fuse is on grab the manual from the RESOURCES tab and do a general search within the manual.

Mitsubishi ws-55515
Mitsubishi ws-55515's picture
I have an ws55515 Mitsubishi

I have an ws55515 Mitsubishi if I trun on it's stay on for a second in cuts of what could it be

user
user's picture
I know this seems to be old

I know this seems to be old messege boards, but before I ask my question. I want to say that for me, when my on/off button went bad on my 2005 mitsubishi ws 65315 I simply scotch taped the button down against the chassis. The remote still turns it on and off with no problem, (I do however,leave my tv on 24/7 because it has warmup problem.)... My question is,can I top off the etholine glycol (some poster said Mineral oil) myself? Or do I have to buy new housings altogether. While doing my own service checks, I noticed the green lamp is low by a half inch or so. the red is low by an eigth inch. and the blue is full.thanks

evil
evil's picture
You can purchase it and add

You can purchase it and add it yourself, it is basically antifreeze. The tubes also have expansion chambers so that the fluid has somewhere to go when it expands due to the heat generated which could explain the low level. The expansion chambers are the rubber circles on one side of the tube. Depending on your make and model they may have fill holes in which case you will have to remove the tubes and position them at an angle where you can fill them.

user
user's picture
evil said: You can purchase

evil said: You can purchase it and add it yourself, it is basically antifreeze. The tubes also have expansion chambers so that the fluid has somewhere to go when it expands due to the heat generated which could explain the low level. The expansion chambers are the rubber circles on one side of the tube. Depending on your make and model they may have fill holes in which case you will have to remove the tubes and position them at an angle where you can fill them.

user
user's picture
Ok . it's basicly antifreeze

Ok . it's basicly antifreeze . does that mean my antifreeze in my garage or a propriatal brand for this tv? Also, are the low levels contributing to my focus problem? The lowest (green) was also the most out of focus.

evil
evil's picture
The difference between the

The difference between the two is one is clear, the stuff you put in you car is geared more towards public use which is why it is colored and a bitter taste added to it so no one or no thing will willingly consume it, therefore it is not geared towards use in tv's since you will be trying to pass light through it. What you want will come with out all the additives, something like this http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1915-16SQ-/20-4275 a little more expensive than your usual antifreeze. I think you should also check for mold or do a clean install of the fluid which includes removing the lenses and completely cleaning everything with alcohol before installing the new fluid since your going to have to tear down the tubes anyway just to add some fluid. Google tv coolant change for instructions or an idea of how to do it. I think each tube holds about a bottle each so if I were you I would get 4 bottles so you have a little extra if you need it. As far as the focus issue could be moldy coolant or just needs an adjustment on the focus block either way you don't want to change that until you figure out the coolant.

user
user's picture
The info you supplied is

The info you supplied is invaluable. I thank you. Local tv techs won't even look at these anymore.With little more than a service manual, and a couple of questions answered in laymans terms. I have the picture back to at least 85,maybe 90% of new. I also use this tv as my pc monitor. So you can imagine trying to read text out of focus.

evil
evil's picture
The reason techs rarely even

The reason techs rarely even look at these anymore is cost, most techs have a fee just for bringing it in which is non refundable/transferable, usually around 50$, then there is the cost of parts being coolant at 10$ a pop for 4 bottles plus shipping is going to be over another 50$, then you have labor which by the time you add all that up you could have bought two or three good working used ones....Just makes sense for the consumer as well as the tech not to waste each others time. Having said that I enjoy working on them, I hate surface mounted components, and the room you have to work with is just great, aside from the fact they are almost as reliable as the old tube type of tv. The only down side to them that I can see is that they are generally heavy.

user
user's picture
Ok I am back ....you have

Ok I am back ....you have been a big help so far So now I have a partial bottle of ethonal glycol . I want to top off two lenses that are a bit low.You suggested a total cleanout and refill . My budget won't allow that option. My service manual does not mention how to just " top off " the low lenses. It only refers to extreme care as not to remove certain screws because it will break the seal and cause leakage. Do I need to purchase seals or propriatory sealent before I proceed? Or is there an easy option to simply " top off " said lenses?

evil
evil's picture
There is generally a safe

There is generally a safe place to fill it via a fill port, some do not have these but they will be a tab that you can turn clockwise or counterclockwise and remove still you have to remove the entire assembly(CRT) in order to perform the correct procedure.

evil
evil's picture
Also you can forget about

Also you can forget about seals and sealant as they are not available because they do not make these sets anymore.

user
user's picture
I don't know your name. But I

I don't know your name. But I thank you none the less. To be honest. I am working with no proper tools. And even less knowledge. ( Dammit Jim! I'm a doctor, not a tv repair man! ) Is removing the crt assembly going to cause me more trouble than I can reset? No monoscope, no degauser,nothing more than a service manual, you, and some plastic screwdrivers. ps.Do I remove the crt assembly from the front of the chassis or lift them from the back? The crt's are visible in the front. But I assume that they should be lifted out of the back. Thanks once again ...chip

evil
evil's picture
I usually do both, front and

I usually do both, front and back and which ever direction it decides to go is the one I go with. The only real problem I see you having is the grounds and possibly the boards that connect the crt assembly. Other than that you are golden I think there are four screws that hold each crt in, but sometimes you can remove the whole assembly with all 3 crt's still attached. Most of the time no degauser or mono scope is needed because everything lines back up once installed.

user
user's picture
Yes.since I mailed you I

Yes.since I mailed you I have been studying and restudying the book and the crt assembly itself. It's actually looking easier as I keep looking it over. In floor covering we have a saying. You can't mess it up if you don't cut it. I am picking up the anti freeze from a local repair shop that has some on hand, later this morning. Seeing as it almost one am est. I will attack this in a day or so, with a fresh start. Hopefully,I will shoot you a message applauding your help and my success .

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