sony KP-51WS510-convergence ic-help

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Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Mrbond, you must have looked

Mrbond, you must have looked over the G board as there are two pico fuses that go out all the time on this G board. A little reading and you would have found this out as It has only been mentioned a bazillion times here. LOL

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Oh BTW, you need to get or

Oh BTW, you need to get or borrow an original remote to make touch-up adjustments once you do fix the set. But do not attempt to adjust the set without first repairingf the set or you will be in a heap of trouble. You will have one heck of a time ajusting the set once the set is properly repaired if you do mess with the menu first.

mdonnelly
mdonnelly's picture
Larry Dillon said: Mrbond,

Larry Dillon said: Mrbond, you must have looked over the G board as there are two pico fuses that go out all the time on this G board. A little reading and you would have found this out as It has only been mentioned a bazillion times here. LOL

And since those two picofuses on the 'G' board control power to the convergence ICs, if one or both are bad, it's like you never changed the IC chips.

Dwray
Dwray's picture
IF your TV uses the STK392

IF your TV uses the STK392-560 IC'S Use the STK392-570 as replacements the 570 is higher watts and will last Much longer Just make Sure you BUY ORIGINAL SANYO STK's NOT (China Made) Generic's www.mcminone.com or www.tritronicsinc.com is a good place to buy them .

STK392-110 , STK392-150 ,Stk392-180 USE > Stk392-120
"The STK392-120 Holds up better then the 150 or 180"

STK392-010 , Stk392-020 USE > STK392-040

You do not have to buy OEM Sony , Panasonic, Hitachi STK's They are made BY SANYO MCMinone.com ONLY sells Original Sanyo STK's But Tritronicsinc.com Sells BOTH SANYO & China Made Stk's Just make sure it say ORIGINAL SANYO The China made STK at tritronics will have a TT in front of the STK Like this TT-STK392-570

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
You can also get original

You can also get original Sanyo IC's and factory parts from here
http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/index.html

mrbond0079
mrbond0079's picture
Checked the pico fuses on the

Checked the pico fuses on the G board and they are fine. I have ordered the orignial remote to do the fine tuning. But after changing the two STK392-560 IC's and checking the pico fuses, there is still no result. Any suggestions?

Thanks everyone for your help again....

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Check the voltage on each of

Check the voltage on each of the pico fuses on the G board and let me know what you get.

yardsale
yardsale's picture
Just wanted to thank the

Just wanted to thank the primary contributors to this thread. It helped me to diagnose the convergence problem w/ my KP51WS510, locate the service manual for download, find a bad pico fuse on the G board, order replacement STKs & fuse and talk my father in law into soldering components (don't trust my own skills).
All without posting a single question.
Larry et. al. you are providing a great service.

ece123
ece123's picture
Larry Dillon said: Check the

Larry Dillon said: Check the voltage on each of the pico fuses on the G board and let me know what you get.

We have to thank Larry for his contribution in this thread, a BIG APPLAUSE for him... Smile.

I haven't had the luck as most people have - just replacing the ICs and no adjustments needed! So went back and read the ENTIRE thread to search for an answer. Found one similar case as mine, which is before Larry's reply. Already replaced the 2 IC's with xxxx-570 chips as recommended, checked the pico fuses and resistors and all good (no open) -  actually lifted 6 pico fuses' pins and some resistors on the D board; also checked 2 fuses on the G board. Turned on the TV, convergence problem still there, pressed Focus Flash, no improvement. So decided to go the Service mode (dangerous place), spent more than 4 hours reading the manual and tried to align the three colors RGB. The grid was totally out of wack. So I bravely did an INIt (7 + Enter) to bring back to Factory default settings. Seemed better, but got bows around the 4 sides. Patiently adjusted and got white lines almost the whole grid except those lines close to edges of the TV. The result is even worse; that is, still have the ghost image, mostly red color, but not triple color like before.

Any ideas what to look for?

I'll go back and check the fuses on the G board again tonight. A co-worker thinks it's the projection lamps/bulbs getting weaken, does it make sense at all?

Have read the http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/, but not really helpful, since the service manual also has instructions how to do a convergence though one must try to make sense before applying it.

Hope to get some more suggestions from folks in this forum. BTW, I will report my progress regardless.

Thanks.

ece123

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Have you looked at this yet
ece123
ece123's picture
Larry Dillon said: Have you

Larry Dillon said: Have you looked at this yet? http://www.techlore.com/download/21044/Sony-Convergence-Training/

Yes, I have read the pdf file.  Even though I double/tripple-checked all the connectors (only disconnected 4 though). Somehow I managed to swap the 3 RGB connectors by the rear edge facing me, even with painted Red/Green color on them??? Not sure if this was the reason that it hadn't fixed my convergence problem. This was why I had tried to converge the grid, and lost the Orginal-User-grid done by the factory.  Anyhow, I had to do another "INI" (7 + Enter) to start from the Factory-grid and spend several more hours aligning the RGB colors by using the Service manual. The convergence problem is fixed now,  though the color is a little different according to my wife and I think I can go to the Menu for more adjustment later. Dude, my eyes got so tired afterward.

I used to work for Pioneer and do this kind of work (RGB color alignment) on old projection TV sets for a short while, but I don't think I was using any of the old day experience. Some precautions for folks out there, be extra-careful when de-soldering the STK ICs - DO NOT apply excessive heat to the pin pads! I lifted up one little pin pad, called eye-lid (i think) from the IC on the left side looking into the rear of the set, and found the pin would not take any new solder. Without a schematic (btw, is there one, not part of the downloaded service manual?), so I used an exactor knife scratching around to see if it was broken off from any trace (assume it's a single layer, single sided PCB), and it seems like an unused pin. To be certain, I also probed the same pin on the other IC to find out if it's connected to any components on the board, basically checking for continuity of the pin with other pins exposed on the back of the D-board. Surprisingly, I found the broken eye-lid in the bow where I got rid of solder from the soldering-sucker, so I slipped back on the pin and soldered it.  BTW, it's pin #3 on the IC from the left, facing the rear end of the TV set. Hope this will help the next dude avoid the pain! 

Last notes - follow the convergence procedure closely, read and understand it first before touching the TVWink.  Select Full mode, instead of Zoom or wide zoom view. Adjust GRN color first by covering the RED and BLUE lamps, use a tap measure to mark the mid-points for all four sides, straighten the lines and get a good clean GRN grid (I din't need to do much for the GRN other than using the CENT control, but the other colors were out of whack). Do the CENTer first! Be patient with the LIN, SIZE, MLIN, and MSIZ. Then try the RED while covering up the BLUE lamp. You can check the convergence while looking at the crosshair grid, by pressing 6 to see a live tv channel and check the picture quality. If you can get the RED and GRN color lined up in the center of the set, you should see a good picture with no ghost images. Well, the BLUE color should be done last.

Honestly, it's hard work and some people might think we're nuts, but it's a hobby for engineering/non-engineering minded - just like sport-fishing. Why would we spend $100 bucks for a one-day fishing trip, and sometimes we don't even catch any fish?

This post is to show my appreciation to the forum and good luck to all.

casualguy26
casualguy26's picture
i have a magnavox fp5240-w101

i have a magnavox fp5240-w101 was a good tv til one day i turned it on and the red was drouping in the middle and there is a red line acroos the top that droups and a red line across the bottom that comes upward, i took the back off and i could hear a faint little popping noise coming from what looks like a little box or close to it.. if you have any ideas on what could help me with this feel free to email me at waffleboi@yahoo.com

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
read th enire thread http:/
gees87
gees87's picture
I have a Sony KP-65WS510 that

I have a Sony KP-65WS510 that I'm pretty sure has a convergence problem. I've been reading this forum for the last month and finally decided to give the repair a go and it's going very well. I've removed the G and D boards and have removed the IC chips and tested the pico fuses on each board (I have one bad fuse on each board). I'm not sure if I have ordered the correct 5A fuses for the G board though. On the G board they are yellow but what I ordered from Partstore.com is green (Sony part 1-533-597-31). Is this the right fuse or have I ordered the wrong fuse?

mdonnelly
mdonnelly's picture
gees87 said:

gees87 said:
I have a Sony KP-65WS510 that I'm pretty sure has a convergence problem. I've been reading this forum for the last month and finally decided to give the repair a go and it's going very well. I've removed the G and D boards and have removed the IC chips and tested the pico fuses on each board (I have one bad fuse on each board). I'm not sure if I have ordered the correct 5A fuses for the G board though. On the G board they are yellow but what I ordered from Partstore.com is green (Sony part 1-533-597-31). Is this the right fuse or have I ordered the wrong fuse?

I used the green 5A picofuses, and I haven't had any problems.

gees87
gees87's picture
Thanks mdonnelly. I'll move

Thanks mdonnelly. I'll move forward with those 5A fuses.

gees87
gees87's picture
I finished the repair...fired

I finished the repair...fired up the set and it works. I just want to say thank you to Larry Dillon, Mathelm and everyone else here. I just saved quite a bit of money by performing this repair myself. This is one of the best sites I've visited.

jliu66
jliu66's picture
Hi, Gees

Hi, Gees

Where did you buy IC chips and 5A fuses as I am planning to fix my Sony KP-51WS510? Thanks so much.

John

gees87
gees87's picture
jliu66 said:

jliu66 said:
Hi, Gees
Where did you buy IC chips and 5A fuses as I am planning to fix my Sony KP-51WS510? Thanks so much.
John

I ordered from www.partstore.com.  The IC chips were Sanyo and they were $13.50 a piece.  The 5A fuses were part no. 1-533-597-31 at $3.95 per fuse.  Don't forget to check the 3.15A pico fuses under the heat sinks on the D board.

 

tphone
tphone's picture
Hi Larry,  I've been reading

Hi Larry,  I've been reading the threads about the convergence problems that many have had and I believe I'm having the same issues with my  sony KP-51WS510.  I am considering replacing the IC's myself.  I've found the D board and the IC's on it, and believe I will give it a try.  Would you please send me the service manual for my set?  My address is gloyd@cei.net.  Appreciate any help I can get with this.

Chip
Chip's picture
I have a Sony KP-65ws500.

I have a Sony KP-65ws500. All four sides of the picture are bowing in toward the center and I can see shadows in red, green, and blue. I replaced both stk392-560 ICs with no change in the symptoms. I will replace the fuses on the G board next, but am looking for other suggestions. Will let you know if it works.

GatorKev
GatorKev's picture
Larry, first thank you for

Larry, first thank you for the great info on this site.  I also have the Sony KP-51WS510 with convergence problems.  After reading the posts and downloading the manual (thanks again) I do not know if I have the same problems with the convergence IC or not.  I do have the color ghosting on the left side of my TV.  If the ICs are bad could you still be able to move the cross hairs in the manual covergence?  I can move the left side ones but cannot get them close to line up at all.  Any help would be great.  Thanks again for all the assistance you guys provide.

Kevin

JohnnySmoke
JohnnySmoke's picture
Hi guys,

Hi guys,
This forum is great, I've been reading/learning quite a bit.
Got a question though...my ICs (560's) are STUCK flush to the heat sinks and won't budge, even though they've been unsoldered...it's like they're glued...how should I remove them?
Not even a small screwdriver was skinny enough to get under it, and a razor blade is too flimsy to pry them off!

JohnnySmoke
JohnnySmoke's picture
Thanks Rupert, but the screws

Thanks Rupert, but the screws have been removed also.

Anybody ever had this...is there a solvent/solution thats used in this case?

Alnp
Alnp's picture
Insert a small hex wrench

Insert a small hex wrench with a 90 degree bend in the screw holes to pry down on the ic, while holding the heatsink. It should break free without too much pressure.
Naptha (lighter fluid) or mineral spirits can be used to clean off the old compound.

mathelm
mathelm's picture
It should pry off with a

It should pry off with a knife or flat head screw driver.

If you have to use something use wd-40, I would think lighter fluid or mineral spirits would be way to corrosive to use on the board.

mdonnelly
mdonnelly's picture
Hey, you're not going to use

Hey, you're not going to use the chip again, and the heat sink is pretty tough. Take a hammer and chisel and knock it off. Mine came off tough too.

The heat sink compound dries out and gets hard. Maybe that contributes to the chips overheating and failing. I plan to replace the heat sink compound every two years now.

mdonnelly
mdonnelly's picture
Chip said:

Chip said:
I have a Sony KP-65ws500. All four sides of the picture are bowing in toward the center and I can see shadows in red, green, and blue. I replaced both stk392-560 ICs with no change in the symptoms. I will replace the fuses on the G board next, but am looking for other suggestions. Will let you know if it works.

When the convergence chips fail, they pull too much current, and that's what blows the fuses on the 'G' board.  When you check them with an ohmmeter they should be a dead short,  and if not they should be replaced.

Chip
Chip's picture
Chip said: I have a Sony KP

Chip said: I have a Sony KP-65ws500. All four sides of the picture are bowing in toward the center and I can see shadows in red, green, and blue. I replaced both stk392-560 ICs with no change in the symptoms. I will replace the fuses on the G board next, but am looking for other suggestions. Will let you know if it works.

I replaced the pico fuses on the G board and it looks like that has done the trick.  No more bowing and convergence is much closer.  But, it is not normal.  I will now start trying to adjust to get it right.  I remember a document somewhere in the thread with adjustment instructions for the Sony.  I will try and find it again.  If anyone has the link handy, maybe you could reply with it.  I think it was written by Larry.

JohnnySmoke
JohnnySmoke's picture
Alnp said: Insert a small hex

Alnp said: Insert a small hex wrench with a 90 degree bend in the screw holes to pry down on the ic, while holding the heatsink. It should break free without too much pressure. Naptha (lighter fluid) or mineral spirits can be used to clean off the old compound.

I want to thank everyone in general for their responses, and Alnp, I'd like to thank you specifically because I tried your idea first,and it worked like a charm!! Also a little alcohol and Flux-Off got the old stuff off.

Now I'm ready to install my brand new supposedly OEM STKs (purchased for 9.50 ea), and 1 G board pico, and see if I actually can save this set from the junk heap, which is pretty much where it was headed.

 

Thanks Again Sealed

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