I got my Convergence chips from Mouser. STK150s. I checked the other resistors and they seemed alright. I also went into the service menu, but I have no clue what any of the abbreviations mean. It's not the 3d cinema like other people complain about, its like warping. Like the mirrors or something are off. The previous problem was they convergence chips, but this seems more like an alignment issue.
I don't think I would go tearing into the service menu just yet . . .
First, can you move the crosshairs in the convergence portion of the consumer menu?
Warping or pin cushioning is a sympton of of bad STKs so don't start screwing with the mirror or anything just yet.
Mouser is not considered a reliable source for genuine Sanyo parts, I would suggest Acme in Orlando, Florida.
I would also highly suggest you replace all the resistors. I don't have my notes on the repair of my son's set on this computer, I'll dig them up tomorrow, but those resistors are usually very low resistance and you need a good meter to read them accurately (remember to account for the resistance of your test leads when taking measurements). Again, you gotta lift one side to read them accurately anyway so why not just unsolder the other side and put a new one in? They're cheap.
Also check all of your solder connections.
Over at the Home Theater Shack Forums a Moderator name Leonard has put together some nice stickies on convergence repairs, recommended parts suppliers, etc.. They also have brand specific areas that have lots of good info - surf over there and do a little reading tonight.
Take a deep breath, we'll get this thing running! Of course you may not want to . . . keep an eye on CraigsList and you'll find widescreen high def sets needing convergence repairs cheap. Your Maganavox wasn't the highest quality set so it's not ever going to have the best picture, and these darn sets suffer from CRT fluid contamination and it's a complete pain in the butt to fix that - we did it on my son's set but I don't think I'd ever do it again, I'd much rather find me a nice Sony or JVC and not have to mess with the CRTs!
stay out of the service menu.
Use 120's rather than 150's. Acme Enterprises Orlando is good.
If resistors 3149-3160 read 3.4 in circuit they are probably ok, 6r8 = 6.8ohm 1w flameproof resistor.
check (w/magnifier and continuity) for burned traces and solder bridges at convergence ic's and r3149-3160.
check all connectors and ribbon cables.
I have replaced the ic`s in my set by reading this thread, thanks for all your comments and suggestions......unfortunatly i am still having a problem getting the red to line up.I have remote and the manual,I also am able to get into sam mode with no problem but what to do from there? Am i doing something wrong or does anyone know if i still have a problem...... my red will only move up and down ,will not move left to right...please help
I might have the same issue but after reading the entire 10 page thread, there was only one mention of no picture but sound. The power button does not flash. So would this be a STK chip failure. I looked at the bottom of the board and it seams that one of teh solder joints was loose. I resoldered but still no picture. This will be the 3 third time in 6 years that we would have had to replace the STK chips. They have been lasting about 2 years and yes it is our main Theater TV (heavy use).
I have the same problem. I just replaced my convergent chips and now there's no picture at all, but there is a chirping noise. Do you think I just did a bad soldering job or could it be something else?
Well I recieved a new TDA8177 power amplier which is the chip for the vertical output. I removed and installed the new chip and I still have the same results (No picture, Yes sound). I checked the voltages on the pins and I have no output voltage from Pin 5 which turns on the vertical yokes. I do have the correct input voltages at Pin 7 and 1 (0.6V and 0.7V). The voltages at Pin4 is -13V, Pin2 13V, Pin6 13V. According to the schematic it says 0.03V for Pin3 which is the Generator Flyback. I am reading 13V at this input. There is a capacitor on the input of this Pin3. I checked the volatges on either side of the capacitor and it reads the same 13V.
Am I missing something? Would the SKT392-120 chips cause this problem too? Is there somewhere else I can check to see why the CRT tubes are not gettingh power and why there is nothing coming out of the Vertical Output IC? HELP!!!!
If you will look on the board there is a number next to the resistor you need,it may start with r-whatever,then take that number and look in the service manual for your set under parts list and match that number to the one in the manual and it will tell you in there what it is.
It depends on what your meter is set at in ohms,but it should read 6 or 7 K or somewhere in there,resistors have a tolerance which allows them to change value slightly.You should be able to read them mounted to the board.Unless you have an ESR-DCR meter you usually cant read the caps but you may get lucky if they are not junctioned with anything else that may affect there value and it is low enough that your meter can read it.
I'm going to attempt to replace the STK chips and 6.8 resistors tonight. I took the panel off a few nights ago, and it looks like the most difficult part will be re-attaching the wires were they belong. I'll let you know how it goes. I got the TV for free, and it appears to have the convergence issue. I just got my parts in today. Wish me luck!
Well, the STK chip replacement went well. I bought quality parts, and the convergence issue is fixed! Took me about 2 hours, and that includes the time to map out where everything was before removing the board, and testing all of the resistors with my new multimeter (2 of the 6.8 Ohm resistors were fried). Once I turned it on, I noticed that I have a contaminated coolant issue now! The picture is cloudy with halos, and the colors are off. This has led me to another thread ( http://tinyurl.com/35l94ra ), but I wanted to give you an update. I ordered the coolant last night with a large syringe and tube for removing the old coolant for about $40 total. Thanks for the help!
I use a brake bleeding kit that you can get at autozone,atleast the tubes and tips from it,my hand gets tired of pumping so i use a 2 Ltr bottle and a vacuum
Ok so after reading this thread, i purchased and repaired my convergence chips with the correct items referenced, but all the white on my phillips big screen is now very bright. I have looked through multiple threads on this and after checking to make sure i dont need to change my fluids i decided to ask if someone knows what is going on? My colors are fine the convergence is all in order and everything looks great, but say if a white screen or commercial comes on it is almost to bright to look at, have to squint at it. I have tinkered with the brightness and such, but as of yet have not touched the tubes or the adjustments in the back of the tv...i dont know what they do and dont want to mess something up i cant fix!! any ideals or help will be appreciated, also thanks for the great info on the convergence issue, with the help of everyone here a average joe has fixed a problem himself and discovered that i can repair stuff myself...on a side note the tv repair man where i live wanted 600 to replair my chips!
My Flyback transformer has a crack in it. My picture and sound are still good. I was hearing a hissing noise from the back. So I opened it up. I could see a small blue arc on top of the transformer. Made the mistake of just pointing at it to show the wife. That was when a arc jumped about a foot and knocked me on my but. That thing packs a punch. I know how they got the name for it now.
So the question is how hard is this to change and does somebody have the part number?
Here is a picture. I circled where the crack is. http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/snotrocketgsx/TV001-1.jpg
I successfully replaced the STK chips in January, and I made sure to use quality parts. I also went to the extent of replacing all of the 6.8 ohm resistors. Just last week the TV started to act up. I am wondering if anyone else has run into this problem before.
Here's what it does: When I press the power button, it delays before starting. The red power button lights up, but the screen does not turn on. After a couple of times of pressing the power button it will start up fine and keep working perfectly. What concerns me most is that twice it has started and the convergence is skewed again. Both times that it started with a skewed convergence I turned it off immediately, and when I started it back up it was fine. Any ideas? Should I expect this TV to completely stop working soon? Thanks
This forum has been a great wealth of knowledge on these TV's for me. I have to do the convergence and resistor change for sure.
My Question was with the fluid in the lens. I have removed the cloudy fluid from the blue lens and am waiting for more to come in the mail. I know it cools the lens but for the heck of it I turned on the TV to see how much better the blue would work and all I get a is a bunch of fuzzy blue color.
Does the fluid have to be in the lens to get the picture to focus. I know that fluid can magnify images.
Now instead of just an IC and fluid change you get to replace a CRT as well....Make shure you use denatured alcohol to KILL the bacteria,or it will return in no time.
evil said: Now instead of just an IC and fluid change you get to replace a CRT as well....Make shure you use denatured alcohol to KILL the bacteria,or it will return in no time.
The CRT was still working fine it was just blury looking on the screen. Also where the image emits from the CRT tube the inside of the glass looks a little brown insted of white. The darkening is on the inside not the outside. It was like that when I drained the fluid and cleaned it. Does that mean that the tube is bad? I can peer inside the tube and see an image and focus it as well.
The crt will be bad soon if you keep running it without fluid that white stuff is phosphor and you can burn it very quickly without coolant there should be 4 screws to take the top and the fish eye out and clean them as well as the overflow reservoir.Use distilled water to remove all of the denatured alchohol,tap water is to harsh.
Snot Rocket said: My Flyback transformer has a crack in it. My picture and sound are still good. I was hearing a hissing noise from the back. So I opened it up. I could see a small blue arc on top of the transformer. Made the mistake of just pointing at it to show the wife. That was when a arc jumped about a foot and knocked me on my but. That thing packs a punch. I know how they got the name for it now. So the question is how hard is this to change and does somebody have the part number? Here is a picture. I circled where the crack is. http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/snotrocketgsx/TV001-1.jpg
you might consider repairing the crack if possible:
slr_65 said: I don't think I would go tearing into the service menu just yet . . . First, can you move the crosshairs in the convergence portion of the consumer menu? Warping or pin cushioning is a sympton of of bad STKs so don't start screwing with the mirror or anything just yet. Mouser is not considered a reliable source for genuine Sanyo parts, I would suggest Acme in Orlando, Florida. I would also highly suggest you replace all the resistors. I don't have my notes on the repair of my son's set on this computer, I'll dig them up tomorrow, but those resistors are usually very low resistance and you need a good meter to read them accurately (remember to account for the resistance of your test leads when taking measurements). Again, you gotta lift one side to read them accurately anyway so why not just unsolder the other side and put a new one in? They're cheap. Also check all of your solder connections. Over at the Home Theater Shack Forums a Moderator name Leonard has put together some nice stickies on convergence repairs, recommended parts suppliers, etc.. They also have brand specific areas that have lots of good info - surf over there and do a little reading tonight. Take a deep breath, we'll get this thing running! Of course you may not want to . . . keep an eye on CraigsList and you'll find widescreen high def sets needing convergence repairs cheap. Your Maganavox wasn't the highest quality set so it's not ever going to have the best picture, and these darn sets suffer from CRT fluid contamination and it's a complete pain in the butt to fix that - we did it on my son's set but I don't think I'd ever do it again, I'd much rather find me a nice Sony or JVC and not have to mess with the CRTs! Take Care, Steve
A year later and I still never got back to that tv. I see tons of these rear rpojection tv's on Craigslist and wonder if they're even worth fixing. I recently went back and double checked everything. All the resistors are good, the STKs have continuity. How do you do the Convergence on this?
A year later and I still never got back to that tv. I see tons of these rear rpojection tv's on Craigslist and wonder if they're even worth fixing. I recently went back and double checked everything. All the resistors are good, the STKs have continuity. How do you do the Convergence on this?
Alright. Just to prove that I'm not completely stupid, I went and pulled my convergence board again and checked up on all the solder points. Sure enough, one wasnt connected. I resoldered it down and took care of a few additional points I felt uncomfortable with. The screen came up with out the bowing and the colors were off. I manually multipoint adjusted them. NOW I see that there is a happy "glow" of color, namely blue around words in the menu. It seems almost like tha colors are bleeding. Do I need to change fluid on this?
I got my Convergence chips from Mouser. STK150s. I checked the other resistors and they seemed alright. I also went into the service menu, but I have no clue what any of the abbreviations mean. It's not the 3d cinema like other people complain about, its like warping. Like the mirrors or something are off. The previous problem was they convergence chips, but this seems more like an alignment issue.
Does anyone know what the abbreviations on the service menu mean? Google is useless....
I don't think I would go tearing into the service menu just yet . . .
First, can you move the crosshairs in the convergence portion of the consumer menu?
Warping or pin cushioning is a sympton of of bad STKs so don't start screwing with the mirror or anything just yet.
Mouser is not considered a reliable source for genuine Sanyo parts, I would suggest Acme in Orlando, Florida.
I would also highly suggest you replace all the resistors. I don't have my notes on the repair of my son's set on this computer, I'll dig them up tomorrow, but those resistors are usually very low resistance and you need a good meter to read them accurately (remember to account for the resistance of your test leads when taking measurements). Again, you gotta lift one side to read them accurately anyway so why not just unsolder the other side and put a new one in? They're cheap.
Also check all of your solder connections.
Over at the Home Theater Shack Forums a Moderator name Leonard has put together some nice stickies on convergence repairs, recommended parts suppliers, etc.. They also have brand specific areas that have lots of good info - surf over there and do a little reading tonight.
Take a deep breath, we'll get this thing running! Of course you may not want to . . . keep an eye on CraigsList and you'll find widescreen high def sets needing convergence repairs cheap. Your Maganavox wasn't the highest quality set so it's not ever going to have the best picture, and these darn sets suffer from CRT fluid contamination and it's a complete pain in the butt to fix that - we did it on my son's set but I don't think I'd ever do it again, I'd much rather find me a nice Sony or JVC and not have to mess with the CRTs!
Take Care,
Steve
stay out of the service menu.
Use 120's rather than 150's. Acme Enterprises Orlando is good.
If resistors 3149-3160 read 3.4 in circuit they are probably ok, 6r8 = 6.8ohm 1w flameproof resistor.
check (w/magnifier and continuity) for burned traces and solder bridges at convergence ic's and r3149-3160.
check all connectors and ribbon cables.
colors off: possibly crt coolant contamination
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/22659/STK392-XXX-Spec-s/
I have replaced the ic`s in my set by reading this thread, thanks for all your comments and suggestions......unfortunatly i am still having a problem getting the red to line up.I have remote and the manual,I also am able to get into sam mode with no problem but what to do from there? Am i doing something wrong or does anyone know if i still have a problem...... my red will only move up and down ,will not move left to right...please help
I might have the same issue but after reading the entire 10 page thread, there was only one mention of no picture but sound. The power button does not flash. So would this be a STK chip failure. I looked at the bottom of the board and it seams that one of teh solder joints was loose. I resoldered but still no picture. This will be the 3 third time in 6 years that we would have had to replace the STK chips. They have been lasting about 2 years and yes it is our main Theater TV (heavy use).
Does anyone have or had the same issue?
If you have audio but no video. I would suspect the Vertical otput IC as the CRTs will shut down for safety if the vertical has an issue.
Would it be the chip itself or something that is causing the chip to not turn operate correctly? Would it be the fly back transformer or the HVG?
I have the same problem. I just replaced my convergent chips and now there's no picture at all, but there is a chirping noise. Do you think I just did a bad soldering job or could it be something else?
Well I recieved a new TDA8177 power amplier which is the chip for the vertical output. I removed and installed the new chip and I still have the same results (No picture, Yes sound). I checked the voltages on the pins and I have no output voltage from Pin 5 which turns on the vertical yokes. I do have the correct input voltages at Pin 7 and 1 (0.6V and 0.7V). The voltages at Pin4 is -13V, Pin2 13V, Pin6 13V. According to the schematic it says 0.03V for Pin3 which is the Generator Flyback. I am reading 13V at this input. There is a capacitor on the input of this Pin3. I checked the volatges on either side of the capacitor and it reads the same 13V.
Am I missing something? Would the SKT392-120 chips cause this problem too? Is there somewhere else I can check to see why the CRT tubes are not gettingh power and why there is nothing coming out of the Vertical Output IC? HELP!!!!
Forgive my ignorance, but exactly which resistors do I need to get? Is it 6.8 KOhms?
If you will look on the board there is a number next to the resistor you need,it may start with r-whatever,then take that number and look in the service manual for your set under parts list and match that number to the one in the manual and it will tell you in there what it is.
What should the 6.8 resistors read on my multimeter? And, do I have to remove them to get a proper reading? Thanks
It depends on what your meter is set at in ohms,but it should read 6 or 7 K or somewhere in there,resistors have a tolerance which allows them to change value slightly.You should be able to read them mounted to the board.Unless you have an ESR-DCR meter you usually cant read the caps but you may get lucky if they are not junctioned with anything else that may affect there value and it is low enough that your meter can read it.
I'm going to attempt to replace the STK chips and 6.8 resistors tonight. I took the panel off a few nights ago, and it looks like the most difficult part will be re-attaching the wires were they belong. I'll let you know how it goes. I got the TV for free, and it appears to have the convergence issue. I just got my parts in today. Wish me luck!
Well, the STK chip replacement went well. I bought quality parts, and the convergence issue is fixed! Took me about 2 hours, and that includes the time to map out where everything was before removing the board, and testing all of the resistors with my new multimeter (2 of the 6.8 Ohm resistors were fried). Once I turned it on, I noticed that I have a contaminated coolant issue now! The picture is cloudy with halos, and the colors are off. This has led me to another thread ( http://tinyurl.com/35l94ra ), but I wanted to give you an update. I ordered the coolant last night with a large syringe and tube for removing the old coolant for about $40 total. Thanks for the help!
I use a brake bleeding kit that you can get at autozone,atleast the tubes and tips from it,my hand gets tired of pumping so i use a 2 Ltr bottle and a vacuum
Ok so after reading this thread, i purchased and repaired my convergence chips with the correct items referenced, but all the white on my phillips big screen is now very bright. I have looked through multiple threads on this and after checking to make sure i dont need to change my fluids i decided to ask if someone knows what is going on? My colors are fine the convergence is all in order and everything looks great, but say if a white screen or commercial comes on it is almost to bright to look at, have to squint at it. I have tinkered with the brightness and such, but as of yet have not touched the tubes or the adjustments in the back of the tv...i dont know what they do and dont want to mess something up i cant fix!! any ideals or help will be appreciated, also thanks for the great info on the convergence issue, with the help of everyone here a average joe has fixed a problem himself and discovered that i can repair stuff myself...on a side note the tv repair man where i live wanted 600 to replair my chips!
http://www.techlore.com/article/26744/G2-Adjustment-and-Electrical-Focus... turn all of the user settings back to there original setting before adjusting this.
My Flyback transformer has a crack in it. My picture and sound are still good. I was hearing a hissing noise from the back. So I opened it up. I could see a small blue arc on top of the transformer. Made the mistake of just pointing at it to show the wife. That was when a arc jumped about a foot and knocked me on my but. That thing packs a punch. I know how they got the name for it now.
So the question is how hard is this to change and does somebody have the part number?
Here is a picture. I circled where the crack is.
http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/snotrocketgsx/TV001-1.jpg
I successfully replaced the STK chips in January, and I made sure to use quality parts. I also went to the extent of replacing all of the 6.8 ohm resistors. Just last week the TV started to act up. I am wondering if anyone else has run into this problem before.
Here's what it does: When I press the power button, it delays before starting. The red power button lights up, but the screen does not turn on. After a couple of times of pressing the power button it will start up fine and keep working perfectly. What concerns me most is that twice it has started and the convergence is skewed again. Both times that it started with a skewed convergence I turned it off immediately, and when I started it back up it was fine. Any ideas? Should I expect this TV to completely stop working soon? Thanks
I got a ruff price today for the flyback transformer. They range from $60 to $100.
Does that sound too high of price for just the part?
Hi!
This forum has been a great wealth of knowledge on these TV's for me. I have to do the convergence and resistor change for sure.
My Question was with the fluid in the lens. I have removed the cloudy fluid from the blue lens and am waiting for more to come in the mail. I know it cools the lens but for the heck of it I turned on the TV to see how much better the blue would work and all I get a is a bunch of fuzzy blue color.
Does the fluid have to be in the lens to get the picture to focus. I know that fluid can magnify images.
Thanks
Now instead of just an IC and fluid change you get to replace a CRT as well....Make shure you use denatured alcohol to KILL the bacteria,or it will return in no time.
The CRT was still working fine it was just blury looking on the screen. Also where the image emits from the CRT tube the inside of the glass looks a little brown insted of white. The darkening is on the inside not the outside. It was like that when I drained the fluid and cleaned it. Does that mean that the tube is bad? I can peer inside the tube and see an image and focus it as well.
Dave
The crt will be bad soon if you keep running it without fluid that white stuff is phosphor and you can burn it very quickly without coolant there should be 4 screws to take the top and the fish eye out and clean them as well as the overflow reservoir.Use distilled water to remove all of the denatured alchohol,tap water is to harsh.
you might consider repairing the crack if possible:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvaffpv.htm
If you have to replace, the manual with part numbers is here:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/31483/Philips_DPTV305.html
A year later and I still never got back to that tv. I see tons of these rear rpojection tv's on Craigslist and wonder if they're even worth fixing. I recently went back and double checked everything. All the resistors are good, the STKs have continuity. How do you do the Convergence on this?
http://www.techlore.com/download/24428/SERVICE-MANUAL-51MP392H-17-Chassi...
Alright. Just to prove that I'm not completely stupid, I went and pulled my convergence board again and checked up on all the solder points. Sure enough, one wasnt connected. I resoldered it down and took care of a few additional points I felt uncomfortable with. The screen came up with out the bowing and the colors were off. I manually multipoint adjusted them. NOW I see that there is a happy "glow" of color, namely blue around words in the menu. It seems almost like tha colors are bleeding. Do I need to change fluid on this?
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