The fix worked on my TV. I thought I would have to go in factory settnings to readjust the convergence but it came back nearly perfact. I made a slight adjustment in the standard menu convergence setting.
I have a magnavox 62inch that had stk392-120s and I put the same chips back in it. I didnt hear about upgrading the stk chips until I had already ordered them. As I stated earlier two resistors were also bad and those were replaced too. Thank You, to those that started and helped give me the information to complete the repair. I doubt I would have tried if not for the information here.
Larry,
mouser.com had the resistors 1.30usd for 10 (and may have the IC's). I needed 2 but ordered extras so I wouldnt have to wait if any others were bad.
Electronix.com had the IC's 9.99usd ea. I also ordered a heavy duty solder sucker from electronix that made desoldering a breeze.
Sicksticker, You could try taking the convergence chips and/or resistors out and starting the TV. If it is a problem with them then you should be able to start the TV and see if the chips may be the issue. The screen may not display or will be totally wacky. But, if it no longer has the noise and starts up OK it may help you ID the convergence chips as the issue. If it is them hopefully it didnt mess up anything else.
Ill try that this weekend and get back to you.I went to the local repair shop and they put in the resistors for free and said that they would work, but i know for a fact they were not the same as we took out and they also said that the ic`s were probably bad even though they were new.
I too would like to thank Larry Dillon and the others who have contributed so much info on Techlore. I have learned a lot reading here.
In addition to getting the right value and type resistors, and re-checking the IC pins for shorts, check for continuity -lifted or blown traces- on convergence resistors and the ICs. And there is an easy to miss connector hidden behind the ic heat sink that will hamper some convergence adjustments.
The gut at the shop said that they were different.
He said they were bigger but that shouldnt matter.
He didnt have the ones i needed in stock ever since then the problem just got worse
Your welcome, and Thank you! If you really want to learn a little more about TV sets and how they work, go to http://www.techlore.com/article/18306/Circuits-of-the-Basic-TV-and-What-... read my latest in the workings of a TV set articles and then look at the other two at the end. if you have any questions please leave feedback there
Sicksticker, If the tv guy didnt mean physically bigger he may have gone up in watts. That shouldnt hurt, but its always best to stick with what came out of it. Mine had 6r8/6.8 ohm, 1 watt, 5%. I put in 6.8ohm 2watt 5% and mine is working. The correct 1watt resistors are on order and I plan on putting them in when they arrive.
Hello folks! With the wealth of info here I'm going to attempt the same repair myself. My friend has the same TV with the mag01 mb. His looks like you need 3d glasses to watch it. Being an electronics buff all my life, this one has presented the biggest challange so far. I could fix things with ease just from a simple search of the internet. This project has been all but easy so far. Finding any repair info on the mb was difficult at best! This thread basically saved me lots of time. I'll let you guys know how it goes. One would think a vendor would have kits designed for this mb as I see lots of people have the same problems. Thanks again guys, I WILL be back.....
Houdy All.
I have the same TV & MAG01 boards
The RED went way off and as non adjustable left to right.
I have ordered the 2 IC's STK392-120 and when I was removing the bad IC's I noticed 2 resistors 3159 & 3160 being discolored. Removed them and ...yep there fried. The manual lists them as 3K3 5% 1/10W Metalized Glass resistors.
My question is...Can I replace these with typical Radio Shack 3.3K 1/2 Watt 5% carbon resistors ? Will these carbon resistors hold up to the high signal and heat ?
If you are saying 6.8 ohm then why is the service manual stating 3k3 ?
The part numbers 3159 & 3160 are the small blue colored resistors and do not have the color bands on them. You are most likely correct because I pulled another one close by and yep ...it measures 6.8.
Im wondering why the service manual states 3k3 ?
I did check the board. The board is labeled with part numbers 3159 & 3160.
The service manual states 3K3 so Im guessing I need 3300 ohm resistors.
Can I use plain carbon resistors in place of the glass/Metal Film resistors or should I stick with exact replacement resistors ?
3159 & 3160 is for the RED Vert drive and are 6.8 ohm 1w don't use carbon Use Metal Film or Flameproof can get them at tritronicsinc.com Part # 1W6D8-10 comes 10 to a pack for $2.55
And MAKE 100% Sure the STK's you are buying are Original Sanyo IC's LOT of Online Stores sell China Made After market STK'S and are NO GOOD ! A Original STK392-120 will be close to $15-$18 EA
The 3K3 resistor for Red Vert is 3098 & there is only 1 per Drive circuit
Red H= 3095
Green V= 3097
Green H= 3094
Blue V= 3096
Blue H= 3093
Thanks DWRAY
I purchased the STK's from Suburban Electonic www.suburban-elect.com for $7.99 each and now Im thinking they are China Aftermarket STK's. Guess I got some homework to do now. Maybe Im looking at the wrong service manual for this TV and thats why I was saying 3k3 resistors for part # 3159 & 3160. I did get ceramic resistors 6.8 ohm and I will replace the bad ones. I have read other comments about folks replacing the STK's (possibly china after market) and making things worse. Thanks for you help....It's really helping Me !
YES $7.99 = CHINA MADE YES i have seen the CHINA made STK'S Burn out resistors what want burned before and Blow fues That were good before putting the China STK'S in the set DON'T GO CHEAP PEOPLE !! Spend the $15-$18 and GET the GOOD ONES to Start with !
Thanks to all and a special thanks to DWRAY
I have installed the STK's with official Sanyo ones and replaced a couple of the 6.8 resistors.
Walla....The tv is up and running. I still have to dig in the basement for an older color-bar & crosshatch generator to realign the set but the user menu really was enough to get the RED and BLUE back in alignment. Just a little hint for all. This tv has 2 holes underneath the cabinet with screens on them.
This is to allow air to travel upwards and thru holes on the board to cool the large heat sink that the STK are clamped to. From time to time make sure the screens are not clogged with dust. I bet this lack of air flow over the heat sink is what caused the STK failure and not the Wii game that my son has been playing.
Have 2 people gently tilt the tv onto itÂ’s back and vacume the screens and even give a shot of air from co2 can or air compressor. Once you do that, it will be good to remove the screen and vacume out the inside and clean the lenÂ’s and mirrorÂ….DonÂ’t forget cleaning the screen. Use extreamly soft cloth for this cleaning.
This tv is running like new and the HD picture is great !
Thanks Once Again !
Dwray said: YES $7.99 = CHINA MADE YES i have seen the CHINA made STK'S Burn out resistors what want burned before and Blow fues That were good before putting the China STK'S in the set DON'T GO CHEAP PEOPLE !! Spend the $15-$18 and GET the GOOD ONES to Start with !
Where do I get the good ones? I don't want to make the cheap mistake as it is NOT cheap to install them twice.
Item Number: STK392-120
Item Name: IC, SANYO OEM, 3 CHANNEL CONVERGENCE CORRECTION, 44V, 4A, 18 PIN
Options: None.
Quantity: 2
Price: $12.99
Unit Subtotal: $25.98
Plus what ever shipping $$ method you choose.
Also check the 6.8 resistors that are all around the 3 connectors for the crt's.
Mine were just a light blue color with no color bands on them and 2 of them by the red crt connector were burnt on each end. What ever color is off on your set, it's not very expensive to just simply replace all 12 of the resistors. At least you know your safe.
I found the resistors at http://www.suburban-elect.com
Be safe when you undo the metal straps that clamp the STK's to the heat sink.
They have a nasty tendancy to fly out and smack the upright board thats next to the heat sink. If your not careful you could break some components on that board. I placed a small piece of cardboard against that board when I released those straps.
Also, I used a spring loaded solder suction tool when I was de-soldering the components. It made the job so much cleaner and easier.
Keep in mind that when you solder the new components onto the board, I only used a 17 watt pencil iron because there are some very small surface mount items close to the pin's on the under-side of the main board and I didnt want to hurt those items.
Okay guys, I’m gonna reveal my ignorance.I have the same double vision problem with my 51MP392H/17.I looked thru the service manual and scourged the TV but I can not locate the STK’s (ICs).Can someone tell me what the originals look like and where to look?Same for the resistors.I know I’m piling on, but any shortcuts or lessons learned would be of great value as well. Are they difficult to replace? Any special tools required. I love the internet!
Man I wish I knew about the differences between the Sanyo and Chinese parts. I think I got some Chinese chips. I just replaced the convergence chips and the resistors that I got in a kit the other day. I still have a convergence issue though the is good. I'm a MIL-Spec solderer.
The warpage at the corners is gone but I still have the left-right alignment on red (blue was always good). Can anyone tell me how to adjust it without replacing the damn chips again...
Well Guys,
I just completed my fix tonight. I replaced the convergence ICs with the ones listed here(original sanyo parts), purchased from tristatemodule.com. I also replaced the two red convergence resistors with 6.8ohm replacements(they were both burnt brown on the edges). When I put the TV back together everything worked great. Total fix cost was about 40$. I really appreciate forums like this and all of the helpful information they provide.
OK, wanted to add my thoughts and what I learned as I read this and a few other threads.
1. The Magnavox 51MP392H will just fit in the back of a Jeep Cherokee Sport.
2. STK392-120's can be replaced with STK392-150's I spoke with a TV repair guy 40 years experience. He said always go the next one up for convergence chips on this model so they last longer. He said he's seen a trend that these were designed to last 4 years of moderate use.
3. He also told me something I didn't read anywhere on the web about the color Yokes transformer lens slipping. if you replace the IC's and restore the manufacturer setting and STILL have problems lining stuff up you may need to loosen the yoke clamp turn size box (do at night so you can see thru the back of screen with lights off in room.) you can move the lens around until you get the correct size color graph on the screen! then tighten. he said to tighten as much as you can without cracking screen and also possible putting some silicon glue on to keep it from slipping again...
4. its Very hard to tell the difference from OEM and generic IC's, however the experts say OEM the ones you want have a ruff gritty exterior (not shiny flat black) they also have rounded corners not sharp angles. generics will work but may only last 5 months. usually you get what you pay for, same in convergence chips.
below are original's pulled from my set, the connectors are bent from the extract so ignore that part.
5. your going to need a set of star screw drivers to take apart the TV, if its difficult to remove the circuit board keep screw hunting the IC are mounded to a cooling fins on far left bottom board in TV, on that board they are back right and if your like me I was looking for something small, well they are about the size of a normal thumb.
6. My problem TV, well my tear down and repair is only 1/2 done I'm still waiting on my chips but here is a before pic, hopefully yours looks like this and you can fix it... wish me luck!
Philip Magnavox 51MP392H
SSB convergence circuit board # 3135-013-3263.5 <---email me if you have this board !!!!!
Well, I added the IC's last night and 4 of the resistors blew, had to tear it all out again and getting the resistors now...
after about 6 hours of research I'm able to ask this question since I didnt even know how to ask it...
on the SSB circuit board there are tiny "Surface mounted" black I believe resistors? they are tiny with tiny white lettering mostly [332] I fear one of these may have died, there is some slight discoloration around it like it burned up.
1. where can I get a surface mount 332 (3.3? somthing) resistor?
2. will my 17 watt soder pencil kill it ?
3. am I correct in the above?
if so somthing the size of a fleck of dust is killing my Tv????
Just want to thanks for this site. I have the same T.V. and experienced the convergence problem last week (10-27-08). Googled the problem and found this site. Thanks to this forum and its discussions I ordered the I.C.s and replaced them (and checked all the resistors-all ok). The set works fine again, with no adjustments.
Many of you stated that your set was only three years old. Mine was almost four. I found this component failure discouraging in light of the sets age. I have been in R.F. electronics for a few decades and have seen the spectrum of poor and quality equipment. Given the continuing changes in technology and our throw-away mentality I still have ordered another set of I.C.s for the future likelihood of another failure.
Well, I ramble. Thanks again for all the input and assistance.
The fix worked on my TV. I thought I would have to go in factory settnings to readjust the convergence but it came back nearly perfact. I made a slight adjustment in the standard menu convergence setting.
I have a magnavox 62inch that had stk392-120s and I put the same chips back in it. I didnt hear about upgrading the stk chips until I had already ordered them. As I stated earlier two resistors were also bad and those were replaced too. Thank You, to those that started and helped give me the information to complete the repair. I doubt I would have tried if not for the information here.
Larry,
mouser.com had the resistors 1.30usd for 10 (and may have the IC's). I needed 2 but ordered extras so I wouldnt have to wait if any others were bad.
Electronix.com had the IC's 9.99usd ea. I also ordered a heavy duty solder sucker from electronix that made desoldering a breeze.
Sicksticker, You could try taking the convergence chips and/or resistors out and starting the TV. If it is a problem with them then you should be able to start the TV and see if the chips may be the issue. The screen may not display or will be totally wacky. But, if it no longer has the noise and starts up OK it may help you ID the convergence chips as the issue. If it is them hopefully it didnt mess up anything else.
Ill try that this weekend and get back to you.I went to the local repair shop and they put in the resistors for free and said that they would work, but i know for a fact they were not the same as we took out and they also said that the ic`s were probably bad even though they were new.
how do you know they were not the same? UM?
I too would like to thank Larry Dillon and the others who have contributed so much info on Techlore. I have learned a lot reading here.
In addition to getting the right value and type resistors, and re-checking the IC pins for shorts, check for continuity -lifted or blown traces- on convergence resistors and the ICs. And there is an easy to miss connector hidden behind the ic heat sink that will hamper some convergence adjustments.
The training manual (and service manual) for this Philips 300, Magnavox Mag01 series chassis is in the download section here:
http://www.techlore.com/group/2/list_downloads
The gut at the shop said that they were different.
He said they were bigger but that shouldnt matter.
He didnt have the ones i needed in stock ever since then the problem just got worse
Your welcome, and Thank you! If you really want to learn a little more about TV sets and how they work, go to http://www.techlore.com/article/18306/Circuits-of-the-Basic-TV-and-What-... read my latest in the workings of a TV set articles and then look at the other two at the end. if you have any questions please leave feedback there
Sicksticker, If the tv guy didnt mean physically bigger he may have gone up in watts. That shouldnt hurt, but its always best to stick with what came out of it. Mine had 6r8/6.8 ohm, 1 watt, 5%. I put in 6.8ohm 2watt 5% and mine is working. The correct 1watt resistors are on order and I plan on putting them in when they arrive.
Hello folks! With the wealth of info here I'm going to attempt the same repair myself. My friend has the same TV with the mag01 mb. His looks like you need 3d glasses to watch it. Being an electronics buff all my life, this one has presented the biggest challange so far. I could fix things with ease just from a simple search of the internet. This project has been all but easy so far. Finding any repair info on the mb was difficult at best! This thread basically saved me lots of time. I'll let you guys know how it goes. One would think a vendor would have kits designed for this mb as I see lots of people have the same problems. Thanks again guys, I WILL be back.....
Houdy All.
I have the same TV & MAG01 boards
The RED went way off and as non adjustable left to right.
I have ordered the 2 IC's STK392-120 and when I was removing the bad IC's I noticed 2 resistors 3159 & 3160 being discolored. Removed them and ...yep there fried. The manual lists them as 3K3 5% 1/10W Metalized Glass resistors.
My question is...Can I replace these with typical Radio Shack 3.3K 1/2 Watt 5% carbon resistors ? Will these carbon resistors hold up to the high signal and heat ?
51MP392H/17
3159 Res, 6R8, 5%, 1W, Metal Film . . . . 2120 106 90297
3160 Res, 6R8, 5%, 1W, Metal Film . . . . 2120 106 90297
6R8, 5%, 1W, Metal Film
6.8ohm 1watt 5% tolerance metal film
blue, gray gold, gold
If you are saying 6.8 ohm then why is the service manual stating 3k3 ?
The part numbers 3159 & 3160 are the small blue colored resistors and do not have the color bands on them. You are most likely correct because I pulled another one close by and yep ...it measures 6.8.
Im wondering why the service manual states 3k3 ?
there are some 3300 ohm resistors in that area, check if you are looking at the right part # on the board, and in the parts list.
see this thread also:
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/19643/Philips-60pp920217-convergenc...
I did check the board. The board is labeled with part numbers 3159 & 3160.
The service manual states 3K3 so Im guessing I need 3300 ohm resistors.
Can I use plain carbon resistors in place of the glass/Metal Film resistors or should I stick with exact replacement resistors ?
3159 & 3160 is for the RED Vert drive and are 6.8 ohm 1w don't use carbon Use Metal Film or Flameproof can get them at tritronicsinc.com Part # 1W6D8-10 comes 10 to a pack for $2.55
And MAKE 100% Sure the STK's you are buying are Original Sanyo IC's LOT of Online Stores sell China Made After market STK'S and are NO GOOD ! A Original STK392-120 will be close to $15-$18 EA
The 3K3 resistor for Red Vert is 3098 & there is only 1 per Drive circuit
Red H= 3095
Green V= 3097
Green H= 3094
Blue V= 3096
Blue H= 3093
Thanks DWRAY
I purchased the STK's from Suburban Electonic www.suburban-elect.com for $7.99 each and now Im thinking they are China Aftermarket STK's. Guess I got some homework to do now. Maybe Im looking at the wrong service manual for this TV and thats why I was saying 3k3 resistors for part # 3159 & 3160. I did get ceramic resistors 6.8 ohm and I will replace the bad ones. I have read other comments about folks replacing the STK's (possibly china after market) and making things worse. Thanks for you help....It's really helping Me !
YES $7.99 = CHINA MADE YES i have seen the CHINA made STK'S Burn out resistors what want burned before and Blow fues That were good before putting the China STK'S in the set DON'T GO CHEAP PEOPLE !! Spend the $15-$18 and GET the GOOD ONES to Start with !
Thanks to all and a special thanks to DWRAY
I have installed the STK's with official Sanyo ones and replaced a couple of the 6.8 resistors.
Walla....The tv is up and running. I still have to dig in the basement for an older color-bar & crosshatch generator to realign the set but the user menu really was enough to get the RED and BLUE back in alignment. Just a little hint for all. This tv has 2 holes underneath the cabinet with screens on them.
This is to allow air to travel upwards and thru holes on the board to cool the large heat sink that the STK are clamped to. From time to time make sure the screens are not clogged with dust. I bet this lack of air flow over the heat sink is what caused the STK failure and not the Wii game that my son has been playing.
Have 2 people gently tilt the tv onto itÂ’s back and vacume the screens and even give a shot of air from co2 can or air compressor. Once you do that, it will be good to remove the screen and vacume out the inside and clean the lenÂ’s and mirrorÂ….DonÂ’t forget cleaning the screen. Use extreamly soft cloth for this cleaning.
This tv is running like new and the HD picture is great !
Thanks Once Again !
Where do I get the good ones? I don't want to make the cheap mistake as it is NOT cheap to install them twice.
I purchased the STK's from http://www.tristatemodule.com at a real good price.
Item Number: STK392-120
Item Name: IC, SANYO OEM, 3 CHANNEL CONVERGENCE CORRECTION, 44V, 4A, 18 PIN
Options: None.
Quantity: 2
Price: $12.99
Unit Subtotal: $25.98
Plus what ever shipping $$ method you choose.
Also check the 6.8 resistors that are all around the 3 connectors for the crt's.
Mine were just a light blue color with no color bands on them and 2 of them by the red crt connector were burnt on each end. What ever color is off on your set, it's not very expensive to just simply replace all 12 of the resistors. At least you know your safe.
I found the resistors at http://www.suburban-elect.com
Be safe when you undo the metal straps that clamp the STK's to the heat sink.
They have a nasty tendancy to fly out and smack the upright board thats next to the heat sink. If your not careful you could break some components on that board. I placed a small piece of cardboard against that board when I released those straps.
Also, I used a spring loaded solder suction tool when I was de-soldering the components. It made the job so much cleaner and easier.
Keep in mind that when you solder the new components onto the board, I only used a 17 watt pencil iron because there are some very small surface mount items close to the pin's on the under-side of the main board and I didnt want to hurt those items.
Hope this info helps.
Thanks for the info. I want to do this right the first time.
Okay guys, I’m gonna reveal my ignorance. I have the same double vision problem with my 51MP392H/17. I looked thru the service manual and scourged the TV but I can not locate the STK’s (ICs). Can someone tell me what the originals look like and where to look? Same for the resistors. I know I’m piling on, but any shortcuts or lessons learned would be of great value as well. Are they difficult to replace? Any special tools required. I love the internet!
be sure to read all the pages in this thread, and also this thread:
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/21205/Magnavox-51--51MP392H-17-Powe...
the ic's are mounted vertically against the side of a finned metal heatsink, each chip is about 2 1/2" W x 1 1/2" H 3/8" D. Shown at the top left of this pic:
http://www.techlore.com/imagelib/contentitem/21205/f0f219158e118e83--3c0...
Anyone know where to buy a repalacement lenticular screen for this model?
I would like to get the manual for my 51MP392H/17. Can anyone help me please?
email me and I will send you 2 manuals that will help you.
[email protected]
Man I wish I knew about the differences between the Sanyo and Chinese parts. I think I got some Chinese chips. I just replaced the convergence chips and the resistors that I got in a kit the other day. I still have a convergence issue though the is good. I'm a MIL-Spec solderer.
The warpage at the corners is gone but I still have the left-right alignment on red (blue was always good). Can anyone tell me how to adjust it without replacing the damn chips again...
Well Guys,
I just completed my fix tonight. I replaced the convergence ICs with the ones listed here(original sanyo parts), purchased from tristatemodule.com. I also replaced the two red convergence resistors with 6.8ohm replacements(they were both burnt brown on the edges). When I put the TV back together everything worked great. Total fix cost was about 40$. I really appreciate forums like this and all of the helpful information they provide.
OK, wanted to add my thoughts and what I learned as I read this and a few other threads.
1. The Magnavox 51MP392H will just fit in the back of a Jeep Cherokee Sport.
2. STK392-120's can be replaced with STK392-150's I spoke with a TV repair guy 40 years experience. He said always go the next one up for convergence chips on this model so they last longer. He said he's seen a trend that these were designed to last 4 years of moderate use.
3. He also told me something I didn't read anywhere on the web about the color Yokes transformer lens slipping. if you replace the IC's and restore the manufacturer setting and STILL have problems lining stuff up you may need to loosen the yoke clamp turn size box (do at night so you can see thru the back of screen with lights off in room.) you can move the lens around until you get the correct size color graph on the screen! then tighten. he said to tighten as much as you can without cracking screen and also possible putting some silicon glue on to keep it from slipping again...
4. its Very hard to tell the difference from OEM and generic IC's, however the experts say OEM the ones you want have a ruff gritty exterior (not shiny flat black) they also have rounded corners not sharp angles. generics will work but may only last 5 months. usually you get what you pay for, same in convergence chips.
below are original's pulled from my set, the connectors are bent from the extract so ignore that part.
5. your going to need a set of star screw drivers to take apart the TV, if its difficult to remove the circuit board keep screw hunting the IC are mounded to a cooling fins on far left bottom board in TV, on that board they are back right and if your like me I was looking for something small, well they are about the size of a normal thumb.
6. My problem TV, well my tear down and repair is only 1/2 done I'm still waiting on my chips but here is a before pic, hopefully yours looks like this and you can fix it... wish me luck!
Zero-G
Philip Magnavox 51MP392H
SSB convergence circuit board # 3135-013-3263.5 <---email me if you have this board !!!!!
Well, I added the IC's last night and 4 of the resistors blew, had to tear it all out again and getting the resistors now...
after about 6 hours of research I'm able to ask this question since I didnt even know how to ask it...
on the SSB circuit board there are tiny "Surface mounted" black I believe resistors? they are tiny with tiny white lettering mostly [332] I fear one of these may have died, there is some slight discoloration around it like it burned up.
1. where can I get a surface mount 332 (3.3? somthing) resistor?
2. will my 17 watt soder pencil kill it ?
3. am I correct in the above?
if so somthing the size of a fleck of dust is killing my Tv????
Zero
Just want to thanks for this site. I have the same T.V. and experienced the convergence problem last week (10-27-08). Googled the problem and found this site. Thanks to this forum and its discussions I ordered the I.C.s and replaced them (and checked all the resistors-all ok). The set works fine again, with no adjustments.
Many of you stated that your set was only three years old. Mine was almost four. I found this component failure discouraging in light of the sets age. I have been in R.F. electronics for a few decades and have seen the spectrum of poor and quality equipment. Given the continuing changes in technology and our throw-away mentality I still have ordered another set of I.C.s for the future likelihood of another failure.
Well, I ramble. Thanks again for all the input and assistance.
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