Hello. Has anyone had successes with changing the caps or the board? Did it make the zig zag go away?
I have the 42H82 model and the DVD and Video picture is not only zig zag but it is extremely distorted. It takes at least 45 minutes to one hour to get better. Even then I would still see visible zig zag on the top 15% of the screen. Funnily enough, The TV and HDTV is still all right though.
Would this be the same problem with what I have been reading on these postings?
guitarjoe said: First of all I would like to thank all of you guys for putting your input in this forum. My mother in law gave us a 42h82 42 inch toshiba that had zig zags all over the top of the screen and it took about a half an hour to warm up enough to even make out the picture clearly. After reading all of the input on this forum I went to MCM and purchased the capacitors that needed replaced and the set works perfectly now.
Ben,
Yes, as seen in my comment above. I had exactly the same problem that you do now. I replaced the 11 capacitors on the board and everything is still great. These caps are tiny and you might want a steady handed friend to help if you don't own a hotplate. I used a pair of pliers with a rubber band around it to keep the tip secured to the cap and de-soldered the 2 leads of the cap at the same time. This frees the caps right away without ripping the pads off of the board (you don't want that). Use only a tiny bit of solder to put the new caps on (You don't want to drown them). Pay close attention to the polarity of the cap when you take each one of them off (put the black stipe back on the negative side (I think, you'll have to look for yourself)). I did one at a time and I first marked all 11 bad caps with a sharpie to keep track of my progress. You can find the caps Here (Thanks Larry for that info)
If the project turns out bad or good please post an update. Your information may help someone else.
Ben, yes there has been about 6 other succesful people that have fixed they're TV, that I know of. Mine was just like your's, and now it is perfect. Good Luck:
Hey guys, I have been following this discussion, some good info here, I have a model 42h83 that had sig-zag picture also.I removed the module and proceeded to order the caps. I also ordered a special iron from MCM,(one with two tips, kinda like tweezers) It didnt work very well, tips were too big and not at the right angle to get to the caps. I found that using two small tip irons works good.Get the solder hot and apply a little pressure with one of the irons, the caps will come right off. Trying to hold the new one in place to resolder was a chore, Biggest thing, Be Patient. I was able to replace all 11 caps without damaging any traces. Put the module back in the set and Zig-Zag were gone. But I have some interference in the picture, Kinda like snow, but it has a definite pattern( like several Broken vert lines). Tried AV input from VCR and the interference is not as bad, )But then I noticed a strange symptom, When the picture is moving, the image lags for a few moments, Like ghost. If the pic is still then it looks ok,
Could this be still a problem with the Digital convergence mod?
One other thing, I ordered the caps from newarkinone.com The were less than .10 cent each, Do a serch for surface mount caps
Hey Guys, I have read the entire post , Thanks to all for info , I have just recieved a Toshiba 50H81 in very good condition for the price of "FREE". I connected my DVR coax cable and I get a very nice picture that is all green . I have tried the TF button and Get a Red Touch Focus Failed , I tried a manual convergence and cant get a red or blue line to show up at all . Do you think this is a convergencve "hyper Bourd" issue or more seriuos tube replacement. I do see the green lines and red lines when I run the TF but never see any blue, An help would be greatly appreciated . I was considering if it would be worth taking to a TV repair shop, but they tend to be expensive ???
Take off the screen and look inside all the tubes and see if they are lighting up. If not you could have a bad tube but this seyt is less then 5 years old or I think it is. Is there a manufacture date on the back of the set on the service number Tag? It would not be the first time I have seen a bad picture tube in a 4 to 5 year old set, but not too likely. It could be a drive board circuit falure on the picture tube. There could be a bad driver transistor or open resistors on the board are commob problem.. If you take the set to a repair shop, they will not charge you an arm and a leg for an estimate like they would if they came out to your home, or at least they should not. If you know about electronic circuits, get the service manual and test the RGB driver boards. good Luck, and let us know how you made out with this repair.
i found the board. driectly behind the video input, mounted horizontally like the video input, couldn't see it until i pulled the main board out. no pictures are needed. thanks, this thread has been very helpful.
Larry Dillon said:
There was one that was going to but I do not know if he did or not. Maybe we all should ask MOtvGUY, the expert on this repair if he would write an article and submit it here to the Editor and get it published? What do you say MOtvGUY?
Let me just say this. I'm no car mechanic by any means but I've done some pretty extensive car repairs on my own vehicles without any sort of formal training or experience. I guess I just have a knack of seeing a job and figuring out how to do it and then doing it. This repair job is the same way. Some folks will be able to do it with the information posted within this thread and some won't. The fact that the board is not a simple plug in type makes me hesitant to write up anything on this matter. If someone makes a mistake in this process I don't really want to be responsible for creating the illusion that this is an easy fix. It's not really, it's considered major labor in my profession and the potential to damage the much larger main board is there when trying to extract the hyper board.
Ok the lasest info is , I found the place to adjust the red and blue colors and now have a color screen . I ran TF and it still failed , but now I can see the red and blue cross hairs and can adjust some spots but the lower left and upper right spots I cant get the red to move. I also noticed that when I run the TF the green and blue bars are nice and straight but the red is curved and red text on the screen is on an angle , I have no problem doing R&R on the hyper board if you think that would help. I have previous circut board experience , althow I am rusty. So to some it up my screen has a gohst like image in ceretain areas (mostly corners ) and looks ok in the midle . Thanks again for all the helpfull input . Does any one have instuctions on setting the color guns ?
p.s. I agree with MotvGuy , You need to know when your in over your head and call in the PROs to do thhe job Right.
You have to get a good grey scale. That is a B&W picture without any color. You need to first get a line across the screen from a cross hatch generator. Adjust the three RGB screen controls till all three colors are a faint line on the screen. Put on a picture without color. Now adjust the drives till you can get a good or as good of B & W picture you can. Then the picture with color will look much better.
My brother got a free Toshiba 50H81 HDTV and we did the zig-zag fix. I used the following Nichicon capacitor because it is lower impedance and has a higher voltage rating while still maintaing the same PCB footprint. If the Toshiba capacitors are failing because they are being pushed to their limits, then these Nichicons should last longer. The TV looks great! Tip: when desoldering, if the cap doesn't come right off, don't pry on it with a pair of pliers. If you need to pry, use a pocket knife underneath it.
Link to buy Nichicon 10uF 25V SMD Capacitor ($0.54):
My Toshiba 42H83 has covergence problem, there are shadows on the screen, and when I entered menu->convergence adjustment screen, I can see the red color on the right away from the focus about 1 inch. I called a techician to come in, he said it was convergence module problem, and I let him to take the TV to his shop to repair, got the TV back in a day, charged total around 400 canadian dollar, replaced two STK 392-110 module and a couple resistors, and the problem gone.
It was a little late for me to read this post, but I would like to post the my experience here. From the www.partstore.com, I can see the IC for STK 392-110 is around 30 dollar each. looks like I paid a little more for it.
BTW, can your guys tell me how can I enter the service screen of this Toshiba TV?So that next time when it goes wrong again, I know how I fix it by myself.
We can certainly help you do the service mode, but there are so many differant menus and settings in these tV sets, I would highly recommend that you purchace the service manual and you will have, right in front of you, the correct procedure and in order and what every function does. You can download one for under 25 bucks HERE. I have seen in the past man TV sets that peeps have tried to adjust the service menus, in alot of differant types of TV sets, and trashed them. Then with the manual, it will also give you the exact part numbers you need as you should never buy a part just because it has the same number on it. It is like with the convergence IC's. Those parts are also available with the same numbers and letters on them for 5 bucks. But these IC's are far from being the right IC's. They do not last as long as the original IC's and they do not have all the same specs, although they will work, sometimes after replacing the ICs, you have to do massive readjustments of the convergence alighnments. Also the adjustments for the rest of the set is also there for you. Good Luck and I hope this helped you.
Solder iron, solder, desodering tool, magnifying glass and
heat sink compound from radio shack 84.57Online research to find out what could be wrong with Toshiba50H81 50 inch flat screen TV 4 hours
Fixing TV yourself in 6 hours and getting a beautiful Picture
PRICELESSAgain, thanks to ALL involved with this Post, I ordered the 2 convergence chips and replaced them yesterday, I took my time so the total R&R was about 6 hours, but the results are well worth it, I don’t now if I would recommend this job to any one that does not have good soldering experience. But I got this TV in mint condition with only the convergence problem. It was well worth the effort! Thanks again to all and fell free to ask me any questions, be glad to help other in turn for the help I have received, regards James Magruger
MOtvGuy said: This repair job is the same way. Some folks will be able to do it with the information posted within this thread and some won't. The fact that the board is not a simple plug in type makes me hesitant to write up anything on this matter. If someone makes a mistake in this process I don't really want to be responsible for creating the illusion that this is an easy fix. It's not really, it's considered major labor in my profession and the potential to damage the much larger main board is there when trying to extract the hyper board.
Hi. Thanks to everyone who replied to my posting. At the end though, I agree with MOtvGuy and I don't wish to risk damaging more by trying to fix the problem myself. So, I called an authorized Toshiba service personnel to try and fix the problem.
So, the service guy came today. He agreed that the problem is with the hyper module board. He wanted $200 labor to replace the board plus the cost of the board which I think is around $165. Total of $ 365.
I asked him if he could just replace the caps. He told me the labor cost to replace the caps will be much more compared to replacing the whole board.
My question is: is $365 reasonable for the cost of replacing the board + labor?
Sure, the tech as to make a living too. The high cost of gas, health insurance and ect, makes alot of these TV sets not worth the time or trouble. But I certainly would think this set is worth the cash.
benshaw888, Early in this thread I posted that my tech wanted 600.00 to fix my set. Plus the $60.00 for his diagnosis. So I would say you are getting a bargain. But it's all up to you. Besides a new board, I would trust more than my soldering, or anybody else's.
I got my 50 H81 for free, only cost was time and labor to pick it up. I got an old broken VCR and practiced my very "rusty" soldering and de soldering technique. After a little practice I felt confident to remove the main chassis and de solder the 2 convergence heat sinks / chips and then re install and re solder. I also made detailed diagrams of all the connectors and labeled them with white labels to make sure I knew exactly how to plug it all back up. Like I mentioned in previous post I took my time, it was a great Sunday afternoon project, total time was about 6 hours. Watching the Daytona 500 on a 50 inch screen that I recorded earlier that day made this NASCAR fan VERY VERY HAPPY !!!!!
Guys, I've been a little late getting this back to you but my hyper module has been repaired. I had a second friend that had done this kind of work before. A couple of the pads did come loose but he was able to locate the traces and repair. Thank all of you for your input. It was extremely helpful.
Great info here guys!!! I Have a 42H82 with this zig zag thang on all the inputs. I got the caps and tryed to do the repair myself on the hyper PCB. On the third one I tore the board. There is still hope, but I need to go shopping again, (magnafying gass). I looked up this card @ parts.com just in case. They have three to chose from. 23148024 is the original they also have replacments for it 23148024P,and 23148024X. I'm not sure which one I should get. Any thoughts? Thank You
After following the advice in this thread, I've removed my hyper board.. At least I *think* it's the hyper board. It sat directly behind the input board, had the soldered tabs, and has a metal shield with holes. The only problem is the numbering on the top doesn't seem to match what I'm seeing here.
On the top sticker it reads "MVPU14 2G157D"
Does anyone have pictures they can share or tell me if I've at least pulled the right board out? :)
Oh, and THANK YOU everyone for the help I've gotten from reading this thread so far.
I'll add something to my last post and still have those pix of the board and caps which I'll be more than happy to forward if you pm me your email addy. It can be done if you have a steady hand, the right tools and willingness to take the chance. One tip I didn't put in the post was don't even bother trying to hold the solder, iron and cap in place; it won't work because the caps are so small.
The trick to use (I figured this out after about the 7th cap) was that
once you pop the bad caps off and are ready to put the new ones on, hold the cap in a tweezer (there's a little groove around the side of each cap that's handy for that purpose) while you hold the iron onto the board. Once the solder melts on the board, just place the cap on it, pull the iron away, wait a second and then you can let go of the cap. You're more halfway there because all you have to do is place the tip of the iron on the other side long enough to melt the solder and you'll have completed the connection.
Just make sure there's enough solder on the board before you start.
I just wanted to report that my surgery to the hyper board was a *success*! I mean, I *did* pull off 3 of the foil traces on the board and had to re-route the connections using wires, but amazingly it did work.
I am simply amazed that some of the questionable re-connections did actually work. :)
Also, I'd like to mention that I pulled off all the wrong capacitors (removed the 100ufs) FIRST, then realized that the teeny-tiny 10uf ones were actually the ones i wanted. Surprisingly, it was easier to remove the smaller ones than the bigger ones--this may be because I already logged an hour or so on removing and resoldering the big caps.
I was just happy in knowing that I couldn't really make the problem *worse* and that I could replace the entire board if need be.
Thanks for all the help from everyone on this board.
Safe to say it is not just my tv after finding this site. HD works great pic is perfect. Std signal like watching tv through a waterfall. It used to "warm" up and be ok...shot now. Gonna try the caps replacement. Thanks guys. Less than 3 years and the tv dies...should be a mfg. recall for repairs. How bout a class action suit?? HAHA
I have the 42hdx82 with the zigzag problem. Thanks to you folks I believe I can accomplish the board replacement (really glad I found this site). I've opened up the set, removed some wires from the cable holders to loosen things up, removed the screws to slide the chasis out enough to see the module and shield tabs from the bottom of the main board. I've got the service manual listing the board as "23787795 Digi-Conv Board, PD0638f". Can't see a partnumber on the shield and haven't removed that yet.
My question is about the parnumber to order. From Partstore.com and tigerdirect.com, I see that partnumber listed for $72.95. That's significantly less than the $160 referenced by folks here. Both sites call the part "PC BOARD ASSY, DIG". Does this sound like the part I need? Should it be the plugable card that goes inside the shield that is soldered to the main board?
Thanks for your help. (would like to get this repaired before the ISF guy comes to calibrate my new set. Same guy made a real difference when he calibrated the Toshiba four years ago...)
jeffbrad, I think you have the wrong PN. The PN. I have is 23148024. Partstore.com has it listed under 2 names, SCAN COVERTER, and HYPER PCB. They also have 3 variations of the PN by adding a "P" or an "X" at the end, which the say are replacements for each other. On the top of my sheild there is a sticker which reads "MVPU14". If you open any of there PNs they give ref. to this # which was how i confermed I was ordering the right part.
When I recieved my new card it was complete with the shield, and the sticker that read MVPU14 on the top.
Do keep in mind that my model # is 42H82 and I have no idea what the diference is. Somewere I found a ref. to the m#s of TVs this card will work in. I think it was @ partstore.com but i'll have to reserch this to confirm it for you.
I hope this info helps
I'd also like to thank you all again. After installing the new card my TV is good for three more years. This is an ausome place. Strangers helping Strangers WOW. You dont see the much anymore. Also my sister who replaced her TV. When I found it was the same as mine with the same problem is when i got online and started serching.
RB24, if you have to have a new board, I would suggest, PartStore.com.They have new ones from the factory, not rebuilt ones.
Hello. Has anyone had successes with changing the caps or the board? Did it make the zig zag go away?
I have the 42H82 model and the DVD and Video picture is not only zig zag but it is extremely distorted. It takes at least 45 minutes to one hour to get better. Even then I would still see visible zig zag on the top 15% of the screen. Funnily enough, The TV and HDTV is still all right though.
Would this be the same problem with what I have been reading on these postings?
Thank you so much for anyone's comments.
Ben,
Yes, as seen in my comment above. I had exactly the same problem that you do now. I replaced the 11 capacitors on the board and everything is still great. These caps are tiny and you might want a steady handed friend to help if you don't own a hotplate. I used a pair of pliers with a rubber band around it to keep the tip secured to the cap and de-soldered the 2 leads of the cap at the same time. This frees the caps right away without ripping the pads off of the board (you don't want that). Use only a tiny bit of solder to put the new caps on (You don't want to drown them). Pay close attention to the polarity of the cap when you take each one of them off (put the black stipe back on the negative side (I think, you'll have to look for yourself)). I did one at a time and I first marked all 11 bad caps with a sharpie to keep track of my progress. You can find the caps Here (Thanks Larry for that info)
If the project turns out bad or good please post an update. Your information may help someone else.
Good Luck
Joe
Ben, yes there has been about 6 other succesful people that have fixed they're TV, that I know of. Mine was just like your's, and now it is perfect. Good Luck:
Hey guys, I have been following this discussion, some good info here, I have a model 42h83 that had sig-zag picture also.I removed the module and proceeded to order the caps. I also ordered a special iron from MCM,(one with two tips, kinda like tweezers) It didnt work very well, tips were too big and not at the right angle to get to the caps. I found that using two small tip irons works good.Get the solder hot and apply a little pressure with one of the irons, the caps will come right off. Trying to hold the new one in place to resolder was a chore, Biggest thing, Be Patient. I was able to replace all 11 caps without damaging any traces. Put the module back in the set and Zig-Zag were gone. But I have some interference in the picture, Kinda like snow, but it has a definite pattern( like several Broken vert lines). Tried AV input from VCR and the interference is not as bad, )But then I noticed a strange symptom, When the picture is moving, the image lags for a few moments, Like ghost. If the pic is still then it looks ok,
Could this be still a problem with the Digital convergence mod?
One other thing, I ordered the caps from newarkinone.com The were less than .10 cent each, Do a serch for surface mount caps
Charlie
Charlie, it sounds like you still have a problem in the converter board.
Hey Guys, I have read the entire post , Thanks to all for info , I have just recieved a Toshiba 50H81 in very good condition for the price of "FREE". I connected my DVR coax cable and I get a very nice picture that is all green . I have tried the TF button and Get a Red Touch Focus Failed , I tried a manual convergence and cant get a red or blue line to show up at all . Do you think this is a convergencve "hyper Bourd" issue or more seriuos tube replacement. I do see the green lines and red lines when I run the TF but never see any blue, An help would be greatly appreciated . I was considering if it would be worth taking to a TV repair shop, but they tend to be expensive ???
Take off the screen and look inside all the tubes and see if they are lighting up. If not you could have a bad tube but this seyt is less then 5 years old or I think it is. Is there a manufacture date on the back of the set on the service number Tag? It would not be the first time I have seen a bad picture tube in a 4 to 5 year old set, but not too likely. It could be a drive board circuit falure on the picture tube. There could be a bad driver transistor or open resistors on the board are commob problem.. If you take the set to a repair shop, they will not charge you an arm and a leg for an estimate like they would if they came out to your home, or at least they should not. If you know about electronic circuits, get the service manual and test the RGB driver boards. good Luck, and let us know how you made out with this repair.
hi, i too am a part of the family. 50h82 is my tv model. does anyone have pictures? is it posted somehwere? please email me. thanks in advance
i found the board. driectly behind the video input, mounted horizontally like the video input, couldn't see it until i pulled the main board out. no pictures are needed. thanks, this thread has been very helpful.
Let me just say this. I'm no car mechanic by any means but I've done some pretty extensive car repairs on my own vehicles without any sort of formal training or experience. I guess I just have a knack of seeing a job and figuring out how to do it and then doing it. This repair job is the same way. Some folks will be able to do it with the information posted within this thread and some won't. The fact that the board is not a simple plug in type makes me hesitant to write up anything on this matter. If someone makes a mistake in this process I don't really want to be responsible for creating the illusion that this is an easy fix. It's not really, it's considered major labor in my profession and the potential to damage the much larger main board is there when trying to extract the hyper board.
Ok the lasest info is , I found the place to adjust the red and blue colors and now have a color screen . I ran TF and it still failed , but now I can see the red and blue cross hairs and can adjust some spots but the lower left and upper right spots I cant get the red to move. I also noticed that when I run the TF the green and blue bars are nice and straight but the red is curved and red text on the screen is on an angle , I have no problem doing R&R on the hyper board if you think that would help. I have previous circut board experience , althow I am rusty. So to some it up my screen has a gohst like image in ceretain areas (mostly corners ) and looks ok in the midle . Thanks again for all the helpfull input . Does any one have instuctions on setting the color guns ?
p.s. I agree with MotvGuy , You need to know when your in over your head and call in the PROs to do thhe job Right.
You have to get a good grey scale. That is a B&W picture without any color. You need to first get a line across the screen from a cross hatch generator. Adjust the three RGB screen controls till all three colors are a faint line on the screen. Put on a picture without color. Now adjust the drives till you can get a good or as good of B & W picture you can. Then the picture with color will look much better.
My brother got a free Toshiba 50H81 HDTV and we did the zig-zag fix. I used the following Nichicon capacitor because it is lower impedance and has a higher voltage rating while still maintaing the same PCB footprint. If the Toshiba capacitors are failing because they are being pushed to their limits, then these Nichicons should last longer. The TV looks great! Tip: when desoldering, if the cap doesn't come right off, don't pry on it with a pair of pliers. If you need to pry, use a pocket knife underneath it.
Link to buy Nichicon 10uF 25V SMD Capacitor ($0.54):
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductD...
Link to specs for Nichicon UUD1E100MCL1GS:
http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/se...
gfgray, thanks for the info and the feedback!
My Toshiba 42H83 has covergence problem, there are shadows on the screen, and when I entered menu->convergence adjustment screen, I can see the red color on the right away from the focus about 1 inch. I called a techician to come in, he said it was convergence module problem, and I let him to take the TV to his shop to repair, got the TV back in a day, charged total around 400 canadian dollar, replaced two STK 392-110 module and a couple resistors, and the problem gone.
It was a little late for me to read this post, but I would like to post the my experience here. From the www.partstore.com, I can see the IC for STK 392-110 is around 30 dollar each. looks like I paid a little more for it.
BTW, can your guys tell me how can I enter the service screen of this Toshiba TV?So that next time when it goes wrong again, I know how I fix it by myself.
Thanks a lot.
We can certainly help you do the service mode, but there are so many differant menus and settings in these tV sets, I would highly recommend that you purchace the service manual and you will have, right in front of you, the correct procedure and in order and what every function does. You can download one for under 25 bucks HERE. I have seen in the past man TV sets that peeps have tried to adjust the service menus, in alot of differant types of TV sets, and trashed them. Then with the manual, it will also give you the exact part numbers you need as you should never buy a part just because it has the same number on it. It is like with the convergence IC's. Those parts are also available with the same numbers and letters on them for 5 bucks. But these IC's are far from being the right IC's. They do not last as long as the original IC's and they do not have all the same specs, although they will work, sometimes after replacing the ICs, you have to do massive readjustments of the convergence alighnments. Also the adjustments for the rest of the set is also there for you. Good Luck and I hope this helped you.
2 STK 392-110T convergence chips from www.tritronicsinc.com 69.13
Solder iron, solder, desodering tool, magnifying glass and
heat sink compound from radio shack 84.57Online research to find out what could be wrong with Toshiba50H81 50 inch flat screen TV 4 hours
Fixing TV yourself in 6 hours and getting a beautiful Picture
PRICELESSAgain, thanks to ALL involved with this Post, I ordered the 2 convergence chips and replaced them yesterday, I took my time so the total R&R was about 6 hours, but the results are well worth it, I don’t now if I would recommend this job to any one that does not have good soldering experience. But I got this TV in mint condition with only the convergence problem. It was well worth the effort! Thanks again to all and fell free to ask me any questions, be glad to help other in turn for the help I have received, regards James Magruger
Hi. Thanks to everyone who replied to my posting. At the end though, I agree with MOtvGuy and I don't wish to risk damaging more by trying to fix the problem myself. So, I called an authorized Toshiba service personnel to try and fix the problem.
So, the service guy came today. He agreed that the problem is with the hyper module board. He wanted $200 labor to replace the board plus the cost of the board which I think is around $165. Total of $ 365.
I asked him if he could just replace the caps. He told me the labor cost to replace the caps will be much more compared to replacing the whole board.
My question is: is $365 reasonable for the cost of replacing the board + labor?
Thanks again.
Sure, the tech as to make a living too. The high cost of gas, health insurance and ect, makes alot of these TV sets not worth the time or trouble. But I certainly would think this set is worth the cash.
benshaw888, Early in this thread I posted that my tech wanted 600.00 to fix my set. Plus the $60.00 for his diagnosis. So I would say you are getting a bargain. But it's all up to you. Besides a new board, I would trust more than my soldering, or anybody else's.
I got my 50 H81 for free, only cost was time and labor to pick it up. I got an old broken VCR and practiced my very "rusty" soldering and de soldering technique. After a little practice I felt confident to remove the main chassis and de solder the 2 convergence heat sinks / chips and then re install and re solder. I also made detailed diagrams of all the connectors and labeled them with white labels to make sure I knew exactly how to plug it all back up. Like I mentioned in previous post I took my time, it was a great Sunday afternoon project, total time was about 6 hours. Watching the Daytona 500 on a 50 inch screen that I recorded earlier that day made this NASCAR fan VERY VERY HAPPY !!!!!
Guys, I've been a little late getting this back to you but my hyper module has been repaired. I had a second friend that had done this kind of work before. A couple of the pads did come loose but he was able to locate the traces and repair. Thank all of you for your input. It was extremely helpful.
Great info here guys!!! I Have a 42H82 with this zig zag thang on all the inputs. I got the caps and tryed to do the repair myself on the hyper PCB. On the third one I tore the board. There is still hope, but I need to go shopping again, (magnafying gass). I looked up this card @ parts.com just in case. They have three to chose from. 23148024 is the original they also have replacments for it 23148024P,and 23148024X. I'm not sure which one I should get. Any thoughts? Thank You
Hi guys,
After following the advice in this thread, I've removed my hyper board.. At least I *think* it's the hyper board. It sat directly behind the input board, had the soldered tabs, and has a metal shield with holes. The only problem is the numbering on the top doesn't seem to match what I'm seeing here.
On the top sticker it reads "MVPU14 2G157D"
Does anyone have pictures they can share or tell me if I've at least pulled the right board out? :)
Oh, and THANK YOU everyone for the help I've gotten from reading this thread so far.
-chris
Hey guys,
I just wanted to report that my surgery to the hyper board was a *success*! I mean, I *did* pull off 3 of the foil traces on the board and had to re-route the connections using wires, but amazingly it did work.
I am simply amazed that some of the questionable re-connections did actually work. :)
Also, I'd like to mention that I pulled off all the wrong capacitors (removed the 100ufs) FIRST, then realized that the teeny-tiny 10uf ones were actually the ones i wanted. Surprisingly, it was easier to remove the smaller ones than the bigger ones--this may be because I already logged an hour or so on removing and resoldering the big caps.
I was just happy in knowing that I couldn't really make the problem *worse* and that I could replace the entire board if need be.
Thanks for all the help from everyone on this board.
Safe to say it is not just my tv after finding this site. HD works great pic is perfect. Std signal like watching tv through a waterfall. It used to "warm" up and be ok...shot now. Gonna try the caps replacement. Thanks guys. Less than 3 years and the tv dies...should be a mfg. recall for repairs. How bout a class action suit?? HAHA
Mattt
I have the 42hdx82 with the zigzag problem. Thanks to you folks I believe I can accomplish the board replacement (really glad I found this site). I've opened up the set, removed some wires from the cable holders to loosen things up, removed the screws to slide the chasis out enough to see the module and shield tabs from the bottom of the main board. I've got the service manual listing the board as "23787795 Digi-Conv Board, PD0638f". Can't see a partnumber on the shield and haven't removed that yet.
My question is about the parnumber to order. From Partstore.com and tigerdirect.com, I see that partnumber listed for $72.95. That's significantly less than the $160 referenced by folks here. Both sites call the part "PC BOARD ASSY, DIG". Does this sound like the part I need? Should it be the plugable card that goes inside the shield that is soldered to the main board?
Thanks for your help. (would like to get this repaired before the ISF guy comes to calibrate my new set. Same guy made a real difference when he calibrated the Toshiba four years ago...)
Jeff...
jeffbrad, I think you have the wrong PN. The PN. I have is 23148024. Partstore.com has it listed under 2 names, SCAN COVERTER, and HYPER PCB. They also have 3 variations of the PN by adding a "P" or an "X" at the end, which the say are replacements for each other. On the top of my sheild there is a sticker which reads "MVPU14". If you open any of there PNs they give ref. to this # which was how i confermed I was ordering the right part.
When I recieved my new card it was complete with the shield, and the sticker that read MVPU14 on the top.
Do keep in mind that my model # is 42H82 and I have no idea what the diference is. Somewere I found a ref. to the m#s of TVs this card will work in. I think it was @ partstore.com but i'll have to reserch this to confirm it for you.
I hope this info helps
I'd also like to thank you all again. After installing the new card my TV is good for three more years. This is an ausome place. Strangers helping Strangers WOW. You dont see the much anymore. Also my sister who replaced her TV. When I found it was the same as mine with the same problem is when i got online and started serching.
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