Ken has no more listings on ebay at this time. Not sure if he is still doing the repairs. Here is a link to his profile page, and you can send him an email from there, if you are an ebay member.
need help got a problem my toshiba 42h83 picture goes from side to side but my menue screen doesnt. they say i need a hyper board but dont know where to get one does anyone know where to get one ?
I would check my post a few back, and see the profile of the guy that used to do the repairs. He may just not have renewed his auctions on Ebay. You can email him from the profile, I believe, and see if he is still repairing them.
if not I know as long as it has not been messed with, PTSCORP.com will repair it but you will need to locate the site. get the contact info and call them. Good LUCK
Larry Dillon
try ptscorp.com go and find them you can call them or check with tri-state module repair they both are reliable and reasonable since the boards are no longer available numbers for contact can be found online!!!
Larry Dillon
Just a follow up. I found a 57h82 on craigslist for $20. The hyperboard in it was the same as mine. I swapped them out and my tv is working fine now. I must of damaged an IC or something in my original hyper when I attempted to repair it.
When this "newer" hyper starts with the zig-zag problem, I will remove it and send it off to Ken on ebay to repair. Live and learn!
or perhaps one or so of the small caps are bad or going bad as they do go bad all the time.I must have seen this problem at least 100 or so times.
Larry Dillon
Thank everyone for sharing their experience and photos. My Toshiba 42H82 had a warm-up problem. The picture was zig-zag in the first 2 minutes and then became normal. HD channels did not have the warm-up problem.
After I read this thread, I decided to give it a try. I never repair a TV before and only use my soldering iron occasionally. Some people took the board out first and then unsoldered the hyperboard. Others tipped the set and unsoldered the hyperboard from underneath.
I figured out that the TV design was repair-friendly. There is a plastic frame to support the main board. Wires are hold by the wire holders. The wires are long enough to allow the main board to go outside of the TV box. I got the wires out of the holders and unplugged only two cables. I unscrewed the plastic frame from the TV box and pulled the whole main board with the plastic frame out the TV set. Then, I turned the whole frame 90 degrees. The four tabs of the hyperboard were very easy to be unsoldered in this position.
After opening up the hyperboard module (MVPU14 2G117D), I gave up the idea to replace the capacitors by myself. They are so tiny! I was just about to send my module to Mr.eBay for repair. A seller posted a same part in eBay. It was only $40. I took the chance and ordered it. It worked!
please tell me someone is still around, i am attempting to do the cap replacement myself and i have gotten as far as removing the hyper module and getting it opened and now i am about to start desoldering caps, i was wondering what is the best kind of tip to use the desolder these tiny capacitors? o and thanks so much to everyone who has given their input! This thread is A GIFT FROM GOD!!!
Love this site. Hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have a Toshiba 57hx81 that had convergence and the zigzag problem. I replaced the 592-110 ICs, fuses and 1.8 ohm resistors. Also replaced the electrolytic caps. on the hyperboard. The zigzag problem is gone. The only problem now is the blue can't be adjusted horizontally. I replaced the 1.8 ohm R7731 resistor with a 2 watt of same value, because that's all I had. This resistor seems to have too much current flowing through it because it really heats up, and it's the resistance value changed to 5.8 ohms. Would appreciate some input!
Hi! I have a 57h81 that I will be parting out. If anyone will need anything from it let me know. I've had the hyperboard repairedby the Guy on eBay. I'm in the downtown Los Angeles area. I will be putting the hyperboard and motherboard on eBay soon. Thanks!
fgv said: Hi! I have a 57h81 that I will be parting out. If anyone will need anything from it let me know. I've had the hyperboard repairedby the Guy on eBay. I'm in the downtown Los Angeles area. I will be putting the hyperboard and motherboard on eBay soon. Thanks!
Do you still have the hyperboard from your 57h81? If so, I might be interested.
Hi all thanks for this forum. After lurking for days, I got some caps and with a little fuss the Toshiba is working great. It does take some skill with the iron. I did lift a few pads but traced to the proper component to solder to. As I was doing this I thought the odds of this working are slim to none. But it works.
I only had HD that worked. And in HD a black saw tooth looking thing in the upper corners. Would go away in maybe 15 to 30 min.
I used standard radial electrolytic capacitors which you can jump over broken pads.
Once again thank you got a cool TV in the man cave.
The big problem was desoldering the caps but I found a good solution. I only lifted one pad and that was while trying to figure out the best way to remove them. The secret is to heat one side and lift it up a little. Then do the other side. Keep repeating this and you will 'walk' the cap up and off the board. When it is a ways up and a whisker of solder is still holding it on don't be tempted to yank or twist it off, keep walking it up with the iron until it is free.
A good iron is needed for this. I used an 0.8 mm tip. You also need a good magnifier. A desk mounted 10x with a fluorescent in it would be best. I used a loupe and while it worked was very very difficult to work with, I burnt my nose more than once.
When soldering on flux well and using a good iron it is very very easy to solder. Be sure the cap is centered exactly. The leads under the cap aren't that long and if you have it too far to one side the other pad might not get made with its lead.
I ordered from Digikey, 1/2 the price of the site listed earlier.
I strongly urge that the main board be removed from the set and worked on on a bench. It is much easier and removing the soldered on board from the main board is not as easy as it looks and trying to do it in the TV looks like a pain.
When removing the hyperboard use a solder sucker not braid. There is a ton of solder to remove. Be gentle, the board is fragile and I broke a piece of it while trying to get all the solder off. Fortunately it was in a non-consequential area. Don't overheat and horse it around, be easy and use a sucker.
Hey, I have a picture problem with my Toshiba Theaterview 42" tv, about 13 years old. My picture goes out (or doesn't come on)...but when I bang on the frame under the screen, it will come back on. Does this mean I have a loose connection?
Thanks
Just a quick question guys, I removed my hyper board and currently trying to unsolder the metal casing from the board. The problem is no matter what gun I use I can't generate enought heat to melt the solder before the metal disperses the heat. Any help on how you guys did it would be great. Tks in advance
Use a good iron (I have a Hakko 936) and for this part use a wide tip. It should be easy to get the solder to melt and use a sucker, not braid. Be gentle, when not much is left maybe go to a smaller tip and then use braid.
Don't use one of those 'gun' type irons, impossible to finesse and work with. Get one with controllable tip temp and assorted tips.
Thanks for all of the info! 65H82 with same hyperboard probs. Thank heaven I work in an electronics lab, and the boss just bought a surface mount station. Guess the fun will begin with taking the board out this weekend! Im pumped, and my hubby will be so happy and surprised when the man cave TV works. Ive done component level repair for years, but this will be my first TV! You all are awesome!!!
Ken has no more listings on ebay at this time. Not sure if he is still doing the repairs. Here is a link to his profile page, and you can send him an email from there, if you are an ebay member.
http://myworld.ebay.com/kcarrigan
Regards,
Gary
does anyone know were to get a hyperboard for a toshiba tv 42h83? please help
need help with a toshiba tv 42h83 hyperboard i cant find one anywhere if anyone can help me i would greatly appricicate it.
EDIT: oops, it looks like there are different p/n for the hyperboard in the 50H82 and 42H83
need help got a problem my toshiba 42h83 picture goes from side to side but my menue screen doesnt. they say i need a hyper board but dont know where to get one does anyone know where to get one ?
I would check my post a few back, and see the profile of the guy that used to do the repairs. He may just not have renewed his auctions on Ebay. You can email him from the profile, I believe, and see if he is still repairing them.
Gary
if not I know as long as it has not been messed with, PTSCORP.com will repair it but you will need to locate the site. get the contact info and call them. Good LUCK
Larry Dillon
try ptscorp.com go and find them you can call them or check with tri-state module repair they both are reliable and reasonable since the boards are no longer available numbers for contact can be found online!!!
Larry Dillon
Just a follow up. I found a 57h82 on craigslist for $20. The hyperboard in it was the same as mine. I swapped them out and my tv is working fine now. I must of damaged an IC or something in my original hyper when I attempted to repair it.
When this "newer" hyper starts with the zig-zag problem, I will remove it and send it off to Ken on ebay to repair. Live and learn!
or perhaps one or so of the small caps are bad or going bad as they do go bad all the time.I must have seen this problem at least 100 or so times.
Larry Dillon
Thank everyone for sharing their experience and photos. My Toshiba 42H82 had a warm-up problem. The picture was zig-zag in the first 2 minutes and then became normal. HD channels did not have the warm-up problem.
After I read this thread, I decided to give it a try. I never repair a TV before and only use my soldering iron occasionally. Some people took the board out first and then unsoldered the hyperboard. Others tipped the set and unsoldered the hyperboard from underneath.
I figured out that the TV design was repair-friendly. There is a plastic frame to support the main board. Wires are hold by the wire holders. The wires are long enough to allow the main board to go outside of the TV box. I got the wires out of the holders and unplugged only two cables. I unscrewed the plastic frame from the TV box and pulled the whole main board with the plastic frame out the TV set. Then, I turned the whole frame 90 degrees. The four tabs of the hyperboard were very easy to be unsoldered in this position.
After opening up the hyperboard module (MVPU14 2G117D), I gave up the idea to replace the capacitors by myself. They are so tiny! I was just about to send my module to Mr.eBay for repair. A seller posted a same part in eBay. It was only $40. I took the chance and ordered it. It worked!
please tell me someone is still around, i am attempting to do the cap replacement myself and i have gotten as far as removing the hyper module and getting it opened and now i am about to start desoldering caps, i was wondering what is the best kind of tip to use the desolder these tiny capacitors? o and thanks so much to everyone who has given their input! This thread is A GIFT FROM GOD!!!
Love this site. Hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have a Toshiba 57hx81 that had convergence and the zigzag problem. I replaced the 592-110 ICs, fuses and 1.8 ohm resistors. Also replaced the electrolytic caps. on the hyperboard. The zigzag problem is gone. The only problem now is the blue can't be adjusted horizontally. I replaced the 1.8 ohm R7731 resistor with a 2 watt of same value, because that's all I had. This resistor seems to have too much current flowing through it because it really heats up, and it's the resistance value changed to 5.8 ohms. Would appreciate some input!
Hubert
did you use original convergence ic's where did you get them from??????
Larry D.
Hi Larry, I replaced the IC again, it's not the problem. The ICs are from Pacific Semiconductors.
Hubert
you guys helped me replace the caps on my toshiba 50hx80. THANK YOU
Hi! I have a 57h81 that I will be parting out. If anyone will need anything from it let me know. I've had the hyperboard repairedby the Guy on eBay. I'm in the downtown Los Angeles area. I will be putting the hyperboard and motherboard on eBay soon. Thanks!
Do you still have the hyperboard from your 57h81? If so, I might be interested.
Let me know
Would
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1259191&highlight=toshiba
be an example of the hyperboard issues?
Thanks.
Hi all thanks for this forum. After lurking for days, I got some caps and with a little fuss the Toshiba is working great. It does take some skill with the iron. I did lift a few pads but traced to the proper component to solder to. As I was doing this I thought the odds of this working are slim to none. But it works.
I only had HD that worked. And in HD a black saw tooth looking thing in the upper corners. Would go away in maybe 15 to 30 min.
I used standard radial electrolytic capacitors which you can jump over broken pads.
Once again thank you got a cool TV in the man cave.
Where can I buy the 11 caps to repair my Tosiba hyper board? Can I use other than surface mount? What type, radial? Thanks for your help!
I did the fix and it is working absolutely great.
The big problem was desoldering the caps but I found a good solution. I only lifted one pad and that was while trying to figure out the best way to remove them. The secret is to heat one side and lift it up a little. Then do the other side. Keep repeating this and you will 'walk' the cap up and off the board. When it is a ways up and a whisker of solder is still holding it on don't be tempted to yank or twist it off, keep walking it up with the iron until it is free.
A good iron is needed for this. I used an 0.8 mm tip. You also need a good magnifier. A desk mounted 10x with a fluorescent in it would be best. I used a loupe and while it worked was very very difficult to work with, I burnt my nose more than once.
When soldering on flux well and using a good iron it is very very easy to solder. Be sure the cap is centered exactly. The leads under the cap aren't that long and if you have it too far to one side the other pad might not get made with its lead.
I ordered from Digikey, 1/2 the price of the site listed earlier.
I strongly urge that the main board be removed from the set and worked on on a bench. It is much easier and removing the soldered on board from the main board is not as easy as it looks and trying to do it in the TV looks like a pain.
When removing the hyperboard use a solder sucker not braid. There is a ton of solder to remove. Be gentle, the board is fragile and I broke a piece of it while trying to get all the solder off. Fortunately it was in a non-consequential area. Don't overheat and horse it around, be easy and use a sucker.
I've put my repaired hyper board on ebay.
Hey, I have a picture problem with my Toshiba Theaterview 42" tv, about 13 years old. My picture goes out (or doesn't come on)...but when I bang on the frame under the screen, it will come back on. Does this mean I have a loose connection?
Thanks
Just a quick question guys, I removed my hyper board and currently trying to unsolder the metal casing from the board. The problem is no matter what gun I use I can't generate enought heat to melt the solder before the metal disperses the heat. Any help on how you guys did it would be great. Tks in advance
Use this http://www.google.com/m/products/detail?gl=us&source=lnms&client=safari&... with solder braid
Use a good iron (I have a Hakko 936) and for this part use a wide tip. It should be easy to get the solder to melt and use a sucker, not braid. Be gentle, when not much is left maybe go to a smaller tip and then use braid.
Don't use one of those 'gun' type irons, impossible to finesse and work with. Get one with controllable tip temp and assorted tips.
Thanks for all of the info! 65H82 with same hyperboard probs. Thank heaven I work in an electronics lab, and the boss just bought a surface mount station. Guess the fun will begin with taking the board out this weekend! Im pumped, and my hubby will be so happy and surprised when the man cave TV works. Ive done component level repair for years, but this will be my first TV! You all are awesome!!!
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