Sorry I can't help you Donnie, but here is the latest in my saga:
I had an expert replace all 11 capacitors (radial type, 10uf, 16v.). When I installed it two things went wrong. First, the picture looked great for all inputs for about 9 minutes, then the SD signals went unwatchably zig-zag (worse than ever before) and if I let it cool off the same thing happens, and secondly, the tv just shows a blank screen when I switch my receiver to the Xbox (it worked fine before)
Does anyone have any ideas?
P.S. I may not have grounded my hyper module back to the main board well enough, could this be a problem? (stupid upside-down soldering!)
hello i have been reading the fourms for awhile i just replaced my (Hyperboard), Hyper Module, i installed the new surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors 11 of them
i have a toshibs 42h83
after i reinstalled everything now my screen looks 3d all the colors are not lining up i pressed the touch foucs button and it said touch foucs error also only getting a picture on my hi def channels all the other channels are blank
any help or suggestions thanks dave
hello i have been reading the fourms for awhile i just replaced my (Hyperboard), Hyper Module, i installed the new surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors 11 of them i have a toshibs 42h83 after i reinstalled everything now my screen looks 3d all the colors are not lining up i pressed the touch foucs button and it said touch foucs error also only getting a picture on my hi def channels all the other channels are blank any help or suggestions thanks dave
this is what my tv looks like now after i replaced my surface capactiors on hyper module
Larry Dillon said: looks like you left out a plug somewhere, or the convergene iC's are bad?
thanks alot i didnt leave anything unpluged and my picture didnt look like that before i replaced the 11 capactors on my hyper board ? or the the touch foucs error i found some convergene ic's stk 392-110 from the same place i got the capactors from (mcm electric) cheaper than the direct toshiba replacement ones at partstore.com does it matter witch ones i get or not ill replace the ic's and see what happends thanks alot dave
Larry Dillon said: looks like you left out a plug somewhere, or the convergene iC's are bad?
thanks alot i didnt leave anything unpluged and my picture didnt look like that before i replaced the 11 capactors on my hyper board ? or the the touch foucs error i found some convergene ic's stk 392-110 from the same place i got the capactors from (mcm electric) cheaper than the direct toshiba replacement ones at partstore.com does it matter witch ones i get or not ill replace the ic's and see what happends thanks alot dave
thanks for the info what capactors are you talking about the ones on the hyper board or just the signel board ones in general im sure the soder is good thanks so much for all your help thanks dave
i found out some more info that it says that you have to replace (6) resistors when you replace the ic;s if the resistors are bad then you will burn up the new ic;s you just put in im gonna give this a try and see what happends i wish i would have found sooner everybody else said to just replace ic;s
here are the resistors #'s if anybody need them r7711,r7716,r7721,r7726,r7731,r7736 i wish i did im sure they are cheap now i probanbly have to buy new ic;s now
Hi i have a toshiba projection tv that has no power i'm checking all the caps and other stuff no luck last time this happan the digtal convergence board went out in this the model number is Tp50f50 any help with this would be very helpful
thank you for your time and help
The caps can be removed easily with needle nose pliers. Grasp them straight up and twist - do NOT pull up, just twist them in a circle. I've replaced hundreds without ever damaging a trace. Use solder braid to clean the legs away after removing the cap. Since you don't have an esr meter to test the caps with, just replace every one that is 10uf at 16 volts. There aren't so many that it will break you to do it. You can use standard capacitors if you clip the leads and pre bend them before soldering in place. Melt a drop of solder on to each pad and heat the drop while you set the lead down into it. Pay attention to + and - markings. Reverse the leads and you may have a puff of smoke and cause other damage.
I replaced the 11 caps. Turned on the TV (57H82). Perfect picture, no shaking or lines. After about 1 minute, the image disappeared, heard a relay click and the tv went dark. The red power light was blinking. If I unplug it, wait a bit, and turn it back on, it works for about 1 minute. After a few cycles, the unit stopped coming on at all. I now have a dark screen and a blinking power light. Any suggestions?
Thanks all, with the help of this thread, especially the pictures in the middle pages, we were able to fix our 50 inch tv. Since we had a lot of trouble just getting the board out of the TV, we figured we should not attempt to fix it ourselves. I was going to send it to PTS, but found a guy on ebay who fixes themn for $75. When we got it back from him & then had to remember how to put all the pieces back togheter, I thought there is no way this will work. But it did & we are very grateful!!
Thanks!!!
Just to let everyone know, you cannot get the hyperboard module #23148024 new anymore. It has been discontinued by Toshiba.
The only place in the world I found the part is on http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/.
It seems they have some refurbished units in stock and are selling them for about $250.
I am not going to attempt to change the caps so I think this is a worthy investment for a fully refurbished module.
I'll let everyone know when I get it and complete the module replacement.
Thanks so much everyone for this thread!
I had called PTS Electronics- they did not have the part in stock, but would fix your board if you sent it to them. I think the price was $139. So, if you have a faulty board it would be cheaper to get it fixed vs. buying a refurbished one. Again - I sent mine to a seller on ebay who fixed it for $75. Its been about 2 weeks and TV still looks good.
i have a 42h83 and it zigzags pretty bad i can't make out anything on the main screen but once it warms up a bit i can turn on the pop screen and then about half of the full screen works perfectly. i've read a good portion of this thread pertaing to my set and am wondering if the problem is bad capacitors and how much it may cost me to have someone replace them if i remove the board. any input would be very much appreciated
That is what mine was doing except the pop screen went out first and then the main screen. It would come back after it warmed up for about 1 hour and finally would not work at all (all ZigZag).
There have been a number of posts that gave sources for reparing the modules. The one right above yours mentioned PTS Electronics and a source from eBay.
I have my Hyperboard out for repair at the Ebay site mentioned above . I will provide feedback after i get the board back and installed as to how it work turn around time etc
Jim Magruger
I sent mine board to the ebay guy on Wednesday 11/19 via 2 day delivery. I got it back 1.5 weeks later on Monday 12/1. He did not answer my first 2 emails, although I did not really ask a questions - just said things like "i sent my board, let me know when you get it..." When I did ask a question, he did reply. I figured 1.5 weeks was good considering it was over Thanksgiving holiday. And of course I was thrilled when we put it back together and it worked. It was a mom /son bonding moment :)
Oh by the way, tiger direct was not honest with me. They told me on the phone they had the part so I ordered it, then I get the email that it's on national backorder.
Unbelievable!
Anyway, I told them they'll never get one since it's discontinued, cancelled my order, and now I will pull the board out and send it in to the guy on Ebay who says he'll fix it for $75.
Guess I'll save a bunch of money in the end!
Ok - I went & looked at the rules, which I should have done first.
I see this one:
Give Back - Don't forget to thank those that help you, and reach out to others in the community by helping to answer questions and sharing your experiences.
Which I was trying to do!
And this one:
No Advertising - Do not advertise your business or use the site for financial gain in any discussion or through the site's Private Message System. If you wish to advertise on this site, contact us
Which does not apply because it is not my business & I am not getting any "financial gain". I was just trying to help people save some money.
on the ebay seller - I can not comment on his work. I just know my TV now works. On PTS Elecronics, when I called them, they wanted me to send them my tv model with the board because they said they would test it before and after to ensure they fixed it. If I didn't think my tv was hopeless & this was a long shot, I probably would have sent it to them instead.
Hello, I have read this thread several times, thank you for all of the awesome information! I have had the zigzag problem on our 50H82 for a long time, the coax, DVD (HD2), and VCR (input 2) inputs were not viewable at all. HD1 was fuzzy for a bout 10 minutes, then unviewable for about 10 minutes, then back to fuzzy but viewable. I purchased the replacement caps and broke a pad on the 6th one of the 11 that I was replacing. I stumbled across an a used/tested good module on ebay that night and drove 1.5 hr each way to pick it up the next morning. I had the TV all opened up and wanted to get it fixed while I still remembered where everything went. The new module went in without any problems. Now all the inputs are better as far as the fuzzy zigzag thing goes. The coax and VCR inputs all work fine. The DVD (HD2) however does not display red, and/or it will flash red horizontal lines of various thickness scrolling from top to bottom of the screen. The HD1 input is horrible with the red lines as described for the HD2 input, this input also has a slight zigzag issue. I purchased/downloaded the service manual and ran the self test. #5 BLOCK: Main SUB or Sync Signal Check was GREEN (normal) Main Sync, and RED (NG) for "Sub sync (when turn on the PIP)". Everything else seemed to test okay.
I think the replacement mvpu14 module needs the caps replaced. Could this also be causing the HD/red line issues? Convergence seems fine and I rechecked all of the connectors and they look fine. There is one (4-5 wire) open connector near the center of the main board, grey wires/white connector, two connections to the left of the long connector with the goop covering the open connections and effectively "glueing" the connector to the socket. I do not recall this connection being pen and seem to have taken pictures of everything but that area. I also double checked and could not find any extra connections not plugged in. I am also confident that I did not crack the main board while removing the hyper module.
And/or is there something else I should check that I may have broke during the module replacement?
btw, the "auction" ended for the guy on bay. I sent him a message through eBay to see if he is going to relist but have not received an answer. The electronics shop that I purchased the replacement module from seemed knowledgeable about the capacitor replacement so I might check back with them for the repair. They did mention that regular capacitors were much easier to install.
The ebay guy says he'll re-list on January 2nd. He is on vacation. I'm waiting to send him my module when he gets back and gives me his address.
I paid for his services on 12-19, the day before his old auction ended.
He said he'd be gone from 12-20 through 1-2.
I took my module out and had no problems. I'll re-post with how fast I get the repair done by ebay guy, as well as my re-install.
The switch on the back is off.
I already double checked the 4 pin audio and 1 pin ground. Everything is connected.
I was wondering if it could be something else? What could have happened when removing and reinstalling all the guts?
Thanks.
How about the long 8 pin connector (I think 8 pin) just behind the big heatsink on the right back edge of the board?
Sorry I can't help you Donnie, but here is the latest in my saga:
I had an expert replace all 11 capacitors (radial type, 10uf, 16v.). When I installed it two things went wrong. First, the picture looked great for all inputs for about 9 minutes, then the SD signals went unwatchably zig-zag (worse than ever before) and if I let it cool off the same thing happens, and secondly, the tv just shows a blank screen when I switch my receiver to the Xbox (it worked fine before)
Does anyone have any ideas?
P.S. I may not have grounded my hyper module back to the main board well enough, could this be a problem? (stupid upside-down soldering!)
hello i have been reading the fourms for awhile i just replaced my (Hyperboard), Hyper Module, i installed the new surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors 11 of them
i have a toshibs 42h83
after i reinstalled everything now my screen looks 3d all the colors are not lining up i pressed the touch foucs button and it said touch foucs error also only getting a picture on my hi def channels all the other channels are blank
any help or suggestions thanks dave
hello i have been reading the fourms for awhile i just replaced my (Hyperboard), Hyper Module, i installed the new surface mount 10uf @ 16v electrolytic capacitors 11 of them i have a toshibs 42h83 after i reinstalled everything now my screen looks 3d all the colors are not lining up i pressed the touch foucs button and it said touch foucs error also only getting a picture on my hi def channels all the other channels are blank any help or suggestions thanks dave
this is what my tv looks like now after i replaced my surface capactiors on hyper module
looks like you left out a plug somewhere, or the convergene iC's are bad?
thanks alot i didnt leave anything unpluged and my picture didnt look like that before i replaced the 11 capactors on my hyper board ? or the the touch foucs error i found some convergene ic's stk 392-110 from the same place i got the capactors from (mcm electric) cheaper than the direct toshiba replacement ones at partstore.com does it matter witch ones i get or not ill replace the ic's and see what happends thanks alot dave
thanks alot i didnt leave anything unpluged and my picture didnt look like that before i replaced the 11 capactors on my hyper board ? or the the touch foucs error i found some convergene ic's stk 392-110 from the same place i got the capactors from (mcm electric) cheaper than the direct toshiba replacement ones at partstore.com does it matter witch ones i get or not ill replace the ic's and see what happends thanks alot dave
well i replaced my IC;S and still have the same problem i give up
double check your capacitors for bad or poor solder conneions.or call ptscorp.com and see if they have a rebuilt board for you.
thanks for the info what capactors are you talking about the ones on the hyper board or just the signel board ones in general im sure the soder is good thanks so much for all your help thanks dave
i found out some more info that it says that you have to replace (6) resistors when you replace the ic;s if the resistors are bad then you will burn up the new ic;s you just put in im gonna give this a try and see what happends i wish i would have found sooner everybody else said to just replace ic;s
here are the resistors #'s if anybody need them r7711,r7716,r7721,r7726,r7731,r7736 i wish i did im sure they are cheap now i probanbly have to buy new ic;s now
Hi i have a toshiba projection tv that has no power i'm checking all the caps and other stuff no luck last time this happan the digtal convergence board went out in this the model number is Tp50f50 any help with this would be very helpful
thank you for your time and help
The caps can be removed easily with needle nose pliers. Grasp them straight up and twist - do NOT pull up, just twist them in a circle. I've replaced hundreds without ever damaging a trace. Use solder braid to clean the legs away after removing the cap. Since you don't have an esr meter to test the caps with, just replace every one that is 10uf at 16 volts. There aren't so many that it will break you to do it. You can use standard capacitors if you clip the leads and pre bend them before soldering in place. Melt a drop of solder on to each pad and heat the drop while you set the lead down into it. Pay attention to + and - markings. Reverse the leads and you may have a puff of smoke and cause other damage.
I replaced the 11 caps. Turned on the TV (57H82). Perfect picture, no shaking or lines. After about 1 minute, the image disappeared, heard a relay click and the tv went dark. The red power light was blinking. If I unplug it, wait a bit, and turn it back on, it works for about 1 minute. After a few cycles, the unit stopped coming on at all. I now have a dark screen and a blinking power light. Any suggestions?
Thanks all, with the help of this thread, especially the pictures in the middle pages, we were able to fix our 50 inch tv. Since we had a lot of trouble just getting the board out of the TV, we figured we should not attempt to fix it ourselves. I was going to send it to PTS, but found a guy on ebay who fixes themn for $75. When we got it back from him & then had to remember how to put all the pieces back togheter, I thought there is no way this will work. But it did & we are very grateful!!
Thanks!!!
Just to let everyone know, you cannot get the hyperboard module #23148024 new anymore. It has been discontinued by Toshiba.
The only place in the world I found the part is on http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/.
It seems they have some refurbished units in stock and are selling them for about $250.
I am not going to attempt to change the caps so I think this is a worthy investment for a fully refurbished module.
I'll let everyone know when I get it and complete the module replacement.
Thanks so much everyone for this thread!
I had called PTS Electronics- they did not have the part in stock, but would fix your board if you sent it to them. I think the price was $139. So, if you have a faulty board it would be cheaper to get it fixed vs. buying a refurbished one. Again - I sent mine to a seller on ebay who fixed it for $75. Its been about 2 weeks and TV still looks good.
i have a 42h83 and it zigzags pretty bad i can't make out anything on the main screen but once it warms up a bit i can turn on the pop screen and then about half of the full screen works perfectly. i've read a good portion of this thread pertaing to my set and am wondering if the problem is bad capacitors and how much it may cost me to have someone replace them if i remove the board. any input would be very much appreciated
loophole,
That is what mine was doing except the pop screen went out first and then the main screen. It would come back after it warmed up for about 1 hour and finally would not work at all (all ZigZag).
There have been a number of posts that gave sources for reparing the modules. The one right above yours mentioned PTS Electronics and a source from eBay.
I have my Hyperboard out for repair at the Ebay site mentioned above . I will provide feedback after i get the board back and installed as to how it work turn around time etc
Jim Magruger
I sent mine board to the ebay guy on Wednesday 11/19 via 2 day delivery. I got it back 1.5 weeks later on Monday 12/1. He did not answer my first 2 emails, although I did not really ask a questions - just said things like "i sent my board, let me know when you get it..." When I did ask a question, he did reply. I figured 1.5 weeks was good considering it was over Thanksgiving holiday. And of course I was thrilled when we put it back together and it worked. It was a mom /son bonding moment :)
Oh by the way, tiger direct was not honest with me. They told me on the phone they had the part so I ordered it, then I get the email that it's on national backorder.
Unbelievable!
Anyway, I told them they'll never get one since it's discontinued, cancelled my order, and now I will pull the board out and send it in to the guy on Ebay who says he'll fix it for $75.
Guess I'll save a bunch of money in the end!
Do you have any contact information for the guy on e-bay?
Seller I used is kcarrigan
Here's his expired ad
http://cgi.ebay.com/Toshiba-MVPU14-HyperBoard-Hyper-Board-will-repair_W0...
If you do a search for "toshiba board" I think you will find it.
I sent my board still in the metal case. We had such difficulty unsoldering it from the main board we gave up on our "unsoldering' techniques :)
I hope this doesn't violate any board rules? if so, the moderator of this can edit/delete my entry.
No ADVERTISING!! Without the permission of the Editor and/ or site administrator.
Ok - I went & looked at the rules, which I should have done first.
I see this one:
Give Back - Don't forget to thank those that help you, and reach out to others in the community by helping to answer questions and sharing your experiences.
Which I was trying to do!
And this one:
No Advertising - Do not advertise your business or use the site for financial gain in any discussion or through the site's Private Message System. If you wish to advertise on this site, contact us
Which does not apply because it is not my business & I am not getting any "financial gain". I was just trying to help people save some money.
on the ebay seller - I can not comment on his work. I just know my TV now works. On PTS Elecronics, when I called them, they wanted me to send them my tv model with the board because they said they would test it before and after to ensure they fixed it. If I didn't think my tv was hopeless & this was a long shot, I probably would have sent it to them instead.
Hello, I have read this thread several times, thank you for all of the awesome information! I have had the zigzag problem on our 50H82 for a long time, the coax, DVD (HD2), and VCR (input 2) inputs were not viewable at all. HD1 was fuzzy for a bout 10 minutes, then unviewable for about 10 minutes, then back to fuzzy but viewable. I purchased the replacement caps and broke a pad on the 6th one of the 11 that I was replacing. I stumbled across an a used/tested good module on ebay that night and drove 1.5 hr each way to pick it up the next morning. I had the TV all opened up and wanted to get it fixed while I still remembered where everything went. The new module went in without any problems. Now all the inputs are better as far as the fuzzy zigzag thing goes. The coax and VCR inputs all work fine. The DVD (HD2) however does not display red, and/or it will flash red horizontal lines of various thickness scrolling from top to bottom of the screen. The HD1 input is horrible with the red lines as described for the HD2 input, this input also has a slight zigzag issue. I purchased/downloaded the service manual and ran the self test. #5 BLOCK: Main SUB or Sync Signal Check was GREEN (normal) Main Sync, and RED (NG) for "Sub sync (when turn on the PIP)". Everything else seemed to test okay.
I think the replacement mvpu14 module needs the caps replaced. Could this also be causing the HD/red line issues? Convergence seems fine and I rechecked all of the connectors and they look fine. There is one (4-5 wire) open connector near the center of the main board, grey wires/white connector, two connections to the left of the long connector with the goop covering the open connections and effectively "glueing" the connector to the socket. I do not recall this connection being pen and seem to have taken pictures of everything but that area. I also double checked and could not find any extra connections not plugged in. I am also confident that I did not crack the main board while removing the hyper module.
And/or is there something else I should check that I may have broke during the module replacement?
btw, the "auction" ended for the guy on bay. I sent him a message through eBay to see if he is going to relist but have not received an answer. The electronics shop that I purchased the replacement module from seemed knowledgeable about the capacitor replacement so I might check back with them for the repair. They did mention that regular capacitors were much easier to install.
TIA,
Bill
Sorry for the bad pics,the color looks much better on the TV. LOL, that was a B&W movie I was watching when I snapped the pics.
Here are a couple of examples of the red lines that I mentioned.
The ebay guy says he'll re-list on January 2nd. He is on vacation. I'm waiting to send him my module when he gets back and gives me his address.
I paid for his services on 12-19, the day before his old auction ended.
He said he'd be gone from 12-20 through 1-2.
I took my module out and had no problems. I'll re-post with how fast I get the repair done by ebay guy, as well as my re-install.
Pages