Well partially anyway but I am watching tv so who cares. I replaced various caps on the DM, FMT, and PWR boards. The only visible caps that were bad were on the PWR and FMT boards but I replaced the DM caps anyway. I also upgraded the 1000uF caps to 25v long life high temp caps. When I say partial success I mean I need to use a bypass switch on the FC connector. Very clean installation and the tv works. There is something else obviously wrong with the set but at this point operating a small switch when I loose AC power is better than no tv. Larry, thank you for providing me with the documentation.
Larry
I have never received any documentation for fixing my 62825. I changed the caps with info I found elsewhere but did not use hi-temp caps. The fix was short lived. I have now replaced them with hi-temp caps but it still has the blinking light. Any ideas on what I need to do.
Gary [email protected] [email protected]
Langston said: Larry, It looks like I now a victim of the Mistubishi Green Blinking Light of Death. My model is a WD-62525. Please send me the instructions to fix if you don't mind. Please send to [email protected] Thanks, Langston
Larry,
Please send me the instructions. If you sent them earlier, I never received them. I really appreciate the support you provide and look forward to trying this fix.
Hey Larry, sent you an email about this too. Mouser is out of the 3300uf caps you specified, and in speaking with them they don't know when they will get more in. I sent you an email saying that I'd researched similar and can only find them in low-impedance, and instead lf 10mmdia x 40l, they are 12.5 dia x 35.5 l. I really don't think that diff will bother it, same voltage, same capacitance, same temp range, etc.
So, just checking to see which you respond to faster, email or here. Also, send me your paypal info so I can send you some $$.
I have my TV apart now and am looking at the caps from the diagrams. They all look fine. No bulges or indentations. Anybody have any idea what else it could be??
Also, how hard was it to put all this stuff back together? that is making me nervous.
It is a WD62825 model and the problem started after the second bulb was put in............
It is not hard but you need to take your time and make sure everything is secure and in place. I found it to be a tight fit for everything I had to put back together but it all went together fine. I would replace the caps anyway while you have it apart. It may seem all caps are fine but they are known to be inferior components.
Hey Larry, hope the battle is going well! I am also a proud WD-62825 owner with the "green blinking light of Death". Please forward the repair docs when you get a chance. You're the man!
I just got off the phone with Mitsubishi, they have assigned me a contact # and sounds like they will be paying for the parts (maybe some of the labor) to get my wd62825 tv repaired. Has anybody else been this far with Mits yet??? I will keep you updated as I find out more info---thanks.
Okay, went through and replaced a total of 14 caps, all looked bad. All 3300uf and I think all the 1000uf have been replaced. Took me a while because I was extremely careful to desolder and resolder and get it done right. Actually looks better than the factory job.
Only one problem, got everything back together, after cleaning every internal inch of the set, cleaned up all the cable/wire runs, now all nicely laced in place, and still have the blinking green light. ---{heavy sigh}---
So, that was a lot of work to get to this point. I'll email you Larry, cause I'm ready for whatever is the next step. Thanks for your help to date, am hoping we can fix this bugger.
I'm having the same green blinking light with my WD-62825. Can you send the repair info and troubleshooting manual to me as well. So I can get the caps replaced and be able to intelligently repair.
I too am having the green blinking light of death. This tv was a gift to
my husband and now he can't watch. I hate to even ask because after reading
so many posts, you have helped so many already. I don't have a lot of money
to hire a technician. Any chance you could send me the documentation on
how to fix this problem.
Hi Larry any chance I can get that repair document I too have the quick flashing green light on my WD62652 and the TV won't turn on. If any one has this repair info I desperately need to get my TV working again..Thanks
Larry please could you please send me the reapair document< I have a wd62525 and the green light is flashing same as everyone else, I would to give this a try.
I am also is the victim of the flashing light of death. Please put me on the list if anyone is consider a law suit. In the mean time I would appreciate it very much if someone send me the instruction on how to replace the caps. My email address is [email protected].
Add me to the list. I have the blinking green light problem on my 4-year old Mitsubishi WD62725. Please e-mail me the repair instructions to [email protected] Thanks again!
I just found this forum searching for a Mitsubishi WS-55859 repair part. We had multiple power failures today and it damaged this TV. I have the service manual and I have isolated the problem to the DM Power board (missing 3.3V & 5V outputs). I tried Mitsubishi parts and was told the board (935C9860) is no longer available. The schematic my service manual is a second level and does not include passive components. Do you have a detailed schematic for this board? I suspect that the switcher or the MOSFET(s) are defective (the fuse is good).
I Have a 62525 and I followed the instruction and replaced all 12 1000uf capacitors on three different boards, I got the tv working again, but when I screw everything back up and plug it back in, turn on the TV all I got is flashing green light again? are there other capacitors that I also need to replace? or maybe I did something wrong. Please help
It appears that Mitsubishi does not make the best TV I see. I purchased my WD-62825 Dimond Series back in 2004. I had been experiencing problems over the past year with the "Blinking Green Light", but have always been able to rest the system and life was good. Recently, my picture has been wavey and approximately three days ago, the "Blinking Green Light" came on and I have not been able to rest the system. I just located this site and have been reading all the stories of problems with these sets. I too would add my name to the list of a Class Action Suit, but like everyone else, I would greatly appriciate any information available on the service manual and repaires that could be completed by myself. It appears that Larry is the man to request information from. Larry, when you have a second, please send me the related information requested, or alternate suggestions to repair my set. Thanks in advance for all your help.
Hey Larry, I'd send you this in email but have lost all my emails when I rebuilt my PC. 62825, did the repairs, still fast blinking green. Followed your instructions, pulled the chassis and turned it sideways so I could clear the PWB, took it's rf shield off, connected everything as normal and turned power on. Did all the measurements that you suggested from the Training Manual. The following test points on the PTB were good: TP6VS, TP12VS, GP+15V, TP-15V, and TP30VS.
Measured zero VDC, or nearly zero, at: TP3.3V, TP5V, TP10V and TP12V. F9D00 is good, measruing 120VAC across the fuse when plugged in. So the top right hand quadrant of the pwoer board is funky. I'm trying to weed through the block diagrams now to see what could be common across those test points. Nothing else appears defective or burnt. Any suggestions are more than welcome to [email protected] (yes, I borrowed from one of the other posters)...lol This is different than the original address I sent you as I had to clear it out...
Hey Larry, I'd send you this in email but have lost all my emails when I rebuilt my PC. 62825, did the repairs, still fast blinking green. Followed your instructions, pulled the chassis and turned it sideways so I could clear the PWB, took it's rf shield off, connected everything as normal and turned power on. Did all the measurements that you suggested from the Training Manual. The following test points on the PTB were good: TP6VS, TP12VS, GP+15V, TP-15V, and TP30VS.
Measured zero VDC, or nearly zero, at: TP3.3V, TP5V, TP10V and TP12V. F9D00 is good, measruing 120VAC across the fuse when plugged in. So the top right hand quadrant of the pwoer board is funky. I'm trying to weed through the block diagrams now to see what could be common across those test points. Nothing else appears defective or burnt. Any suggestions are more than welcome to [email protected] (yes, I borrowed from one of the other posters)...lol This is different than the original address I sent you as I had to clear it out...
RobinH,
The info you have, Is it electronic? I'm looking for info so I can repair my tv but have not been able to get any. If you could send it to me it would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance [email protected]
Success!!!!!!!!
Well partially anyway but I am watching tv so who cares. I replaced various caps on the DM, FMT, and PWR boards. The only visible caps that were bad were on the PWR and FMT boards but I replaced the DM caps anyway. I also upgraded the 1000uF caps to 25v long life high temp caps. When I say partial success I mean I need to use a bypass switch on the FC connector. Very clean installation and the tv works. There is something else obviously wrong with the set but at this point operating a small switch when I loose AC power is better than no tv. Larry, thank you for providing me with the documentation.
Christine, you did not provide an email address.
Larry
I have never received any documentation for fixing my 62825. I changed the caps with info I found elsewhere but did not use hi-temp caps. The fix was short lived. I have now replaced them with hi-temp caps but it still has the blinking light. Any ideas on what I need to do.
Gary
[email protected]
[email protected]
My email address is [email protected]. Thanks for the reply.
Larry,
Please send me the instructions. If you sent them earlier, I never received them. I really appreciate the support you provide and look forward to trying this fix.
[email protected]
Regards,
Langston
Larry, Please send me the repair instructions and manual for a 52825. Went dead today watching football.
Lawson
[email protected]
Hey Larry, sent you an email about this too. Mouser is out of the 3300uf caps you specified, and in speaking with them they don't know when they will get more in. I sent you an email saying that I'd researched similar and can only find them in low-impedance, and instead lf 10mmdia x 40l, they are 12.5 dia x 35.5 l. I really don't think that diff will bother it, same voltage, same capacitance, same temp range, etc.
So, just checking to see which you respond to faster, email or here. Also, send me your paypal info so I can send you some $$.
Hello Larry and everyone else,
I have my TV apart now and am looking at the caps from the diagrams. They all look fine. No bulges or indentations. Anybody have any idea what else it could be??
Also, how hard was it to put all this stuff back together? that is making me nervous.
It is a WD62825 model and the problem started after the second bulb was put in............
Thanks all
It is not hard but you need to take your time and make sure everything is secure and in place. I found it to be a tight fit for everything I had to put back together but it all went together fine. I would replace the caps anyway while you have it apart. It may seem all caps are fine but they are known to be inferior components.
Hey Larry, hope the battle is going well! I am also a proud WD-62825 owner with the "green blinking light of Death". Please forward the repair docs when you get a chance. You're the man!
[email protected]
Thanks
Hi Larry,
I have a WD-62825 that is experiencing the blinking green light after I moved it from my apartment to my house this evening.
Can u email me the docs to [email protected]
Thank you in advance.
Regards,
Dion
Got my parts today, time to break out the old soldering station and get to work...
I just got off the phone with Mitsubishi, they have assigned me a contact # and sounds like they will be paying for the parts (maybe some of the labor) to get my wd62825 tv repaired. Has anybody else been this far with Mits yet??? I will keep you updated as I find out more info---thanks.
Regards,
Tim
Okay, went through and replaced a total of 14 caps, all looked bad. All 3300uf and I think all the 1000uf have been replaced. Took me a while because I was extremely careful to desolder and resolder and get it done right. Actually looks better than the factory job.
Only one problem, got everything back together, after cleaning every internal inch of the set, cleaned up all the cable/wire runs, now all nicely laced in place, and still have the blinking green light. ---{heavy sigh}---
So, that was a lot of work to get to this point. I'll email you Larry, cause I'm ready for whatever is the next step. Thanks for your help to date, am hoping we can fix this bugger.
I'm having the same green blinking light with my WD-62825. Can you send the repair info and troubleshooting manual to me as well. So I can get the caps replaced and be able to intelligently repair.
Thanks a ton!
[email protected]
Hi Larry,
I too am having the green blinking light of death. This tv was a gift to
my husband and now he can't watch. I hate to even ask because after reading
so many posts, you have helped so many already. I don't have a lot of money
to hire a technician. Any chance you could send me the documentation on
how to fix this problem.
Thanks in advance
Hi Larry any chance I can get that repair document I too have the quick flashing green light on my WD62652 and the TV won't turn on. If any one has this repair info I desperately need to get my TV working again..Thanks
[email protected]
Larry please could you please send me the reapair document< I have a wd62525 and the green light is flashing same as everyone else, I would to give this a try.
Thank you very much
[email protected]
Hi,
I am also is the victim of the flashing light of death. Please put me on the list if anyone is consider a law suit. In the mean time I would appreciate it very much if someone send me the instruction on how to replace the caps. My email address is [email protected].
Thanks
Larry you send me the instructions please I have a WD-52825 [email protected] thanks in advance!
HI Larry,
Thank you for all you do!
Add me to the list. I have the blinking green light problem on my 4-year old Mitsubishi WD62725. Please e-mail me the repair instructions to [email protected] Thanks again!
JorZor
Hi Larry,
I just found this forum searching for a Mitsubishi WS-55859 repair part. We had multiple power failures today and it damaged this TV. I have the service manual and I have isolated the problem to the DM Power board (missing 3.3V & 5V outputs). I tried Mitsubishi parts and was told the board (935C9860) is no longer available. The schematic my service manual is a second level and does not include passive components. Do you have a detailed schematic for this board? I suspect that the switcher or the MOSFET(s) are defective (the fuse is good).
Thanks for you time,
John
Hi Larry,
I Have a 62525 and I followed the instruction and replaced all 12 1000uf capacitors on three different boards, I got the tv working again, but when I screw everything back up and plug it back in, turn on the TV all I got is flashing green light again? are there other capacitors that I also need to replace? or maybe I did something wrong. Please help
Thanks
Has any one got info from Larry. I have not received any and was wondering if anyone else had the info on this problem.
Thanks
It appears that Mitsubishi does not make the best TV I see. I purchased my WD-62825 Dimond Series back in 2004. I had been experiencing problems over the past year with the "Blinking Green Light", but have always been able to rest the system and life was good. Recently, my picture has been wavey and approximately three days ago, the "Blinking Green Light" came on and I have not been able to rest the system. I just located this site and have been reading all the stories of problems with these sets. I too would add my name to the list of a Class Action Suit, but like everyone else, I would greatly appriciate any information available on the service manual and repaires that could be completed by myself. It appears that Larry is the man to request information from. Larry, when you have a second, please send me the related information requested, or alternate suggestions to repair my set. Thanks in advance for all your help.
Please email them to ([email protected])
Hey Larry, I'd send you this in email but have lost all my emails when I rebuilt my PC. 62825, did the repairs, still fast blinking green. Followed your instructions, pulled the chassis and turned it sideways so I could clear the PWB, took it's rf shield off, connected everything as normal and turned power on. Did all the measurements that you suggested from the Training Manual. The following test points on the PTB were good: TP6VS, TP12VS, GP+15V, TP-15V, and TP30VS.
Measured zero VDC, or nearly zero, at: TP3.3V, TP5V, TP10V and TP12V. F9D00 is good, measruing 120VAC across the fuse when plugged in. So the top right hand quadrant of the pwoer board is funky. I'm trying to weed through the block diagrams now to see what could be common across those test points. Nothing else appears defective or burnt. Any suggestions are more than welcome to [email protected] (yes, I borrowed from one of the other posters)...lol This is different than the original address I sent you as I had to clear it out...
Hey Larry, I'd send you this in email but have lost all my emails when I rebuilt my PC. 62825, did the repairs, still fast blinking green. Followed your instructions, pulled the chassis and turned it sideways so I could clear the PWB, took it's rf shield off, connected everything as normal and turned power on. Did all the measurements that you suggested from the Training Manual. The following test points on the PTB were good: TP6VS, TP12VS, GP+15V, TP-15V, and TP30VS.
Measured zero VDC, or nearly zero, at: TP3.3V, TP5V, TP10V and TP12V. F9D00 is good, measruing 120VAC across the fuse when plugged in. So the top right hand quadrant of the pwoer board is funky. I'm trying to weed through the block diagrams now to see what could be common across those test points. Nothing else appears defective or burnt. Any suggestions are more than welcome to [email protected] (yes, I borrowed from one of the other posters)...lol This is different than the original address I sent you as I had to clear it out...
Here's a copy of the pwb test points and my measurements, except those at zero.
thank you for your help and time i think i put the wrong model # down mine is a MITTS 52725 can u send me an update please.
RobinH,
The info you have, Is it electronic? I'm looking for info so I can repair my tv but have not been able to get any. If you could send it to me it would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
[email protected]
Pages