I HAVE 4 YEAR OLD DLP 62525
BLINKING GREEN LITE EVERY FEW MONTHS.
I PISS AROUND WITH RESET & UNPLUG FOR AWHILE & GET IT BACK.
NEVER HAD TO CHANGE BULB YET. STILL GOOD PICTURE.
ANYONE HAVE A FIX?
THANKS
Hello,
I am also am a victim of the green blinking light. I have a Mitsubishi Electric DLP WD-62627 (Feb2006 build) that has the green timer light blinking constantly when it is plugged in. A reset or any other attempt to turn on the TV results in nothing.
I posted a message a few months back asking for any info on this model but did not receive any replies. I know my model is different than most here but my problem is exactly the same...
If any one has any information or advice (ie the cap repair for this model) could you Please send me the info at "jrauk at hawaii dot rr dot com"
Any Info, Docs, Pics, or Links that might help with this Mitsubishi WD-62627 will be very much appreciated... Thanks Much, John
hay larry how ya felling? i had the blinking light and fought with mittsubishi what a pain , i did the un plug the tv then un plug FC conector plug the tv in waited a couple of min pluged in the FC con. and it has worked great every sence thanks ..... ? how long do u think it will last its been three mounths
Thanks to Larry for all the knowledge and insight. One question for you guys, and Jen, how many blinks are we talking here? Mine is blinking three and three. This is my first problem with my 825, and am not experienced in electronics.
yours is a simple problem,!, the filter cover is not attached/closed/latched correctly!. here are the codes you need for this DLP SET
After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blink lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
WELL SAME AS EVERYONE ELSE GREEN BLINKING LIGHT. STARTS OUT OK THEN SLOWLY SCREEN GETS GREEN AND PINK LINES BUT THE MOVIES STORED INTERNALLY ARE GREAT? SO HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE SOME ANSWERS THANKS [email protected] IVE ALSO TRIED THE RESET AND UNPUG WHICH USED TO WORK
If possible, could you send me the repair info on a WD 62525? I am now facing the green blinking light and want to make sure I find and replace ALL of the capacitors. Thanks man, much appreciated.
If possible, could you send me the repair info on a WD 62525? I am now facing the green blinking light and want to make sure I find and replace ALL of the capacitors. Thanks man, much appreciated.
I bought the caps 1000uF 34V. The document off of a thread on how to remove the chassis is for a different model. I downloaded the service manual and the illustrations are different as well. Would you happen to have a document showing how to remove the chassis to get to the capacitors that need replacing? I have this thing apart on my coffee table right now. My model is a WD-62825.
this evening our 52825 mits is blinking green! it has done it in the past and unplugging it and plugging it back in would do the trick but not now. tomarrow i will try the 4 pin connector on the fmt board but if this doesnt work can someone send me the list or instructions on the capacitor change out. thanks [email protected]
the fmt connrctor is a last resort as YOU CANNOT JUST TAKE THE EASY WAY OUT and disconnect a plug, you will need to follow the capacitor replacement FIRST! THEIR ARE POWER supply voltages that are bad because of bum caps on the power supply board as well as the FMT and the DM.
Larry, I went through your downloads on the mits capacitor replacements and see you only list one cap with a rating of 1000 uf. Now being an HVAC tech I know you can go higher on the uf's for motors and compressor, i'm assuming this is the same for electronics.
Hello all. While disassembling my WD-62825, I noticed a red wire coming from the Power Supply board (connector labeled PR) was detached at the opposite end. The connector on the opposite end is of the female quick-disconnect type. Any idea where it's supposed to plug in?
I can be reached at scottaboyceATverizonDOTnet
(replace AT with
Thank you, Larry. Is the ant. switches on one of the boards? The service manuals I downloaded do not show its location. Would the ant. switcher being unplugged perpetuate the fast blinking green?
TV has been repaired under warranty 3 times for this problem. I've visually inspected all caps and saw nothing out of the ordinary. I unplugged the FC connector and waited over 5 mins, but status LED never stopped blinking green. At my wits end with this F*@&%*$# thing.
you still need to replace the caps even if they look good as they most likely are not!!! Removing the FC will only work if everything else is OK such as the Power supply, the DM board, and the FMT board. Replace all the recommenced capacitors and if the set does not work still, REMOVE the FC cable from the DM as a last resort.
I gave up on trying to repair mine myself. I called Mitsubishi and they are well aware of the problem by now. They had me take mine to a certified mitsubishi repair center...they shipped it to Mitsubishi...and they fixed it!! It only took 2-3 weeks to get it back! Don't screw up your tv, make them fix it!
Great info. - thank you, both. Looks like I'll be purchasing more caps to replace them all. I went back through the manuals and still have not found where the red "PR" lead connects to the antenna switcher Larry mentioned. I'm looking for a male quick connect, correct? Just not sure if it's on one of the boards or somewhere on the chassis.
Hey Larry,
Apparently you can help me fix this same
where can I send the info to? E-mail address?
[email protected]
I have very little knowledge of the inner workings of a TV, but thank you for any help.
Cheers
I HAVE 4 YEAR OLD DLP 62525
BLINKING GREEN LITE EVERY FEW MONTHS.
I PISS AROUND WITH RESET & UNPLUG FOR AWHILE & GET IT BACK.
NEVER HAD TO CHANGE BULB YET. STILL GOOD PICTURE.
ANYONE HAVE A FIX?
THANKS
Hello,
I am also am a victim of the green blinking light. I have a Mitsubishi Electric DLP WD-62627 (Feb2006 build) that has the green timer light blinking constantly when it is plugged in. A reset or any other attempt to turn on the TV results in nothing.
I posted a message a few months back asking for any info on this model but did not receive any replies. I know my model is different than most here but my problem is exactly the same...
If any one has any information or advice (ie the cap repair for this model) could you Please send me the info at "jrauk at hawaii dot rr dot com"
Any Info, Docs, Pics, or Links that might help with this Mitsubishi WD-62627 will be very much appreciated... Thanks Much, John
hay larry how ya felling? i had the blinking light and fought with mittsubishi what a pain , i did the un plug the tv then un plug FC conector plug the tv in waited a couple of min pluged in the FC con. and it has worked great every sence thanks ..... ? how long do u think it will last its been three mounths
untill you unplug it or the power goe out unless on or more of the bad caps blow up
ill 4 now cross my fingers maybe mitt will step up or the class action siut goes through
Thanks to Larry for all the knowledge and insight. One question for you guys, and Jen, how many blinks are we talking here? Mine is blinking three and three. This is my first problem with my 825, and am not experienced in electronics.
yours is a simple problem,!, the filter cover is not attached/closed/latched correctly!. here are the codes you need for this DLP SET
After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blink lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Larry,
Can I get a copy of the repair docs for WD-62825 as well. [email protected]. Thank you
Larry,
Can I get a copy of the repair docs for WD-62825 as well. [email protected]
Thank you in advance
WELL SAME AS EVERYONE ELSE GREEN BLINKING LIGHT. STARTS OUT OK THEN SLOWLY SCREEN GETS GREEN AND PINK LINES BUT THE MOVIES STORED INTERNALLY ARE GREAT? SO HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE SOME ANSWERS THANKS [email protected] IVE ALSO TRIED THE RESET AND UNPUG WHICH USED TO WORK
Hi Larry,
If possible, could you send me the repair info on a WD 62525? I am now facing the green blinking light and want to make sure I find and replace ALL of the capacitors. Thanks man, much appreciated.
[email protected]
Hi Larry,
If possible, could you send me the repair info on a WD 62525? I am now facing the green blinking light and want to make sure I find and replace ALL of the capacitors. Thanks man, much appreciated.
[email protected]
Hi Larry,
I bought the caps 1000uF 34V. The document off of a thread on how to remove the chassis is for a different model. I downloaded the service manual and the illustrations are different as well. Would you happen to have a document showing how to remove the chassis to get to the capacitors that need replacing? I have this thing apart on my coffee table right now. My model is a WD-62825.
Thanks!
John
[email protected]
this evening our 52825 mits is blinking green! it has done it in the past and unplugging it and plugging it back in would do the trick but not now. tomarrow i will try the 4 pin connector on the fmt board but if this doesnt work can someone send me the list or instructions on the capacitor change out. thanks [email protected]
the fmt connrctor is a last resort as YOU CANNOT JUST TAKE THE EASY WAY OUT and disconnect a plug, you will need to follow the capacitor replacement FIRST! THEIR ARE POWER supply voltages that are bad because of bum caps on the power supply board as well as the FMT and the DM.
Thanks for the info. I will just order the caps now.
Larry, I went through your downloads on the mits capacitor replacements and see you only list one cap with a rating of 1000 uf. Now being an HVAC tech I know you can go higher on the uf's for motors and compressor, i'm assuming this is the same for electronics.
no it is NOT the same , What you take out is what you puy back in.
Larry-
is there a chance you could send me the repair info as well.. [email protected]..
Wasnt sure if anyone was still looking at this thred
Hello all. While disassembling my WD-62825, I noticed a red wire coming from the Power Supply board (connector labeled PR) was detached at the opposite end. The connector on the opposite end is of the female quick-disconnect type. Any idea where it's supposed to plug in?
I can be reached at scottaboyceATverizonDOTnet
(replace AT with
The PR Connector goes from the power supply into the Antenna SWITCHER/Antenna Switcher
Thank you, Larry. Is the ant. switches on one of the boards? The service manuals I downloaded do not show its location. Would the ant. switcher being unplugged perpetuate the fast blinking green?
TV has been repaired under warranty 3 times for this problem. I've visually inspected all caps and saw nothing out of the ordinary. I unplugged the FC connector and waited over 5 mins, but status LED never stopped blinking green. At my wits end with this F*@&%*$# thing.
you still need to replace the caps even if they look good as they most likely are not!!! Removing the FC will only work if everything else is OK such as the Power supply, the DM board, and the FMT board. Replace all the recommenced capacitors and if the set does not work still, REMOVE the FC cable from the DM as a last resort.
I gave up on trying to repair mine myself. I called Mitsubishi and they are well aware of the problem by now. They had me take mine to a certified mitsubishi repair center...they shipped it to Mitsubishi...and they fixed it!! It only took 2-3 weeks to get it back! Don't screw up your tv, make them fix it!
Great info. - thank you, both. Looks like I'll be purchasing more caps to replace them all. I went back through the manuals and still have not found where the red "PR" lead connects to the antenna switcher Larry mentioned. I'm looking for a male quick connect, correct? Just not sure if it's on one of the boards or somewhere on the chassis.
Look on the PCB interconnect block diagram.
Yes - I see PR connects to the Antenna Relay. I've been unable to determine where the relay is physically located (on one of the boards or elsewhere.)
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