Mitsubishi WD-52525 has a continuious blinking light

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GatorEngineer
Keith,

Keith,

I am having the same issue and I have replaced the bulb, lamp ballast, and blown caps throughout the various circuit boards. I still haven't figured it out yet but I will post if I do. Please do the same.

liltod
Please send me info on how to

Please send me info on how to tackle this dreaded blinking greenlights. I replaced all the 1000uF 16v caps on the DM, Formatter, and PS for they are all bloated. Please help...

backwardb
thatguyflint said: Thank you

thatguyflint said: Thank you very much for your help. I will look for that.

If you have the "v-26 chassis replacement manual", look at page 17 figure 10, I believe it shows the wire in quiestion.  There are only 23 pages in that manual.  there is also a V-26 chassis service manual, but I didn't see a photo of it in that one.  I could email the replacement manual to you if you want.  I believe the service manual can be downloaded from this forum on the right hand side of the page.

backwardb
Oltol said: Please send me

Oltol said: Please send me info on how to tackle this dreaded blinking greenlights. I replaced all the 1000uF 16v caps on the DM, Formatter, and PS for they are all bloated. Please help...

If you replace all the caps, try the switch installation described on page 55 of this thread - about the 6th post up from the bottom.  I had to use the switch initially but have lost power 3 times since without having to use it again.

liltod
GBLOD was killed by buddylove

GBLOD was killed by buddylove. I did his mod and my set is back in business. For xx525 owners doing shotgun cap upgrade, buddylove's "Boot Accelerator Switch" is a must have. Really easy.. To save your Mits from at least another possible open surgery, pay attention to noise sheilding works. I had to put my set on the operating table once more to get rid of noise on the HDMI input.

liltod
Much Thanks to BackwarB for

Much Thanks to BackwarB for directing me to the right path.....

backwardb
Oltol said: Much Thanks to

Oltol said: Much Thanks to BackwarB for directing me to the right path.....

Your welcome, proves once again it ain't what ya know if you know where to look.

BTW, this morning I accidently turned off the set with the remote and when I turned it back on had scrambled picture.  Powered off and unplugged.  When plugged back in GBLOD.  Flipped switch off, held reset button for about 15 sec, light quit blinking after a minute, flipped switch back on, hit power button on remote, and TV back to normal.  Much thanks to buddylove.

mike55
backwardb said:

backwardb said:

Oltol said: Much Thanks to BackwarB for directing me to the right path.....

Your welcome, proves once again it ain't what ya know if you know where to look.
BTW, this morning I accidently turned off the set with the remote and when I turned it back on had scrambled picture.  Powered off and unplugged.  When plugged back in GBLOD.  Flipped switch off, held reset button for about 15 sec, light quit blinking after a minute, flipped switch back on, hit power button on remote, and TV back to normal.  Much thanks to buddylove.

Hi there i am happy it all worked for you this is what fix my set for me and i that i would pass it on in hop it would help so one my wd52525 has been working for  6 mounth now with the switch but some thing has changed i you to have to reset it ever 2 weeks but it has been good for 3 mounths now with out a reset  even had a power out for 10 minits and it came back all by it sealf. thanks to all your hellp.

have a good one buddylove1986

backwardb
Keith camp said: Hello,

Keith camp said: Hello, interesting and good info here- I have a problem with my wd-52525. The lamp led is on solid red- I replaced it and the timer counts down and then the lamp led goes solit red again- I replaced the lamp again and the same issue occured again. What should I check next? Any ideas? thanks. Keith

I had red lamp light in October '08.  Not saying this is what is wrong with yours, but I had to replace 2 3300uf capacitors on the top left side of the power board.  If you decide to do yourself, you better go ahead and change out all the 1000uf caps on all the boards.  I'd also look for any other caps that are swollen or leaking.  Cost of the caps is inexpensive and I would get the next higher voltage rating on all.  I would go thru tvrepairkits.com to get some instruction material sent with the caps.  The WD-52525 was not listed on the site in December, but talk to Ed on the live chat and I bet he can fix you up.  If I remember there were 13 1000uf caps and 2 3300uf caps I changed.

GaryF
Thanks to Greg D for that

Thanks to Greg D for that photo. Do you are anyone happen to have one that shows the capacitors. I opened up the back of the tv and am not quite sure how to get to the capacitors. Any suggestions would be helpful at this point.

maile
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

I have the same problem, that blinking green light that keeps on blinking on my Mitsubishi Medallion HDTV 1080. Can you please send me the manual as well? My email is: [email protected]

Thanks

jwjones
buddylove1986 said: Here is

buddylove1986 said: Here is my solution- After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back. The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board's microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec...) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled "FC". It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can't get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can't short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled. Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like) Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done! Yeah! From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally... Again you are done... Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won't turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above. Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair Manual -full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements

After replacing many capacitors and installing the switch everything works great! I hooked up an antenna and watched the Tv for a week in my garage.  I moved the TV to my daughters house and now the antenna inputs do not work. I get sound but no picuture. The other inputs still work. My guess is that something shook loose during the move. If any one has any guidance it will be appreciated. It looks like I will be diving into the back of the set again this weekend. 

Steve S.
Hello,

Hello,
If anyone is still reading this thread and has all the documents on repairing the WD-52525, please send them to [email protected].

Thank You all,
Steve

trayfer
Hello Larry(or anyone else

Hello Larry(or anyone else Larry has already kindly assisted),

If you would be so kind I would also appreciate receiving the documents and manuals to repair my WD-52525. Got the blinking green light and would love to make the repair myself.

Thanks You,
Michael

[email protected]

backwardb
Hey Gator,

Hey Gator,

An optimist looks at half a glass of water as half full, a pesimist looks at it as half empty, is it true engineers see it as a glass that is twice as big as it needs to be? I had to ask.

May be Larry time for your TV.

backwardb

GaryF
I too would love to see those

I too would love to see those documents. Still plugging away here trying to fix my WD52525. Any assistance via documents would greatly be appreciated. If anyone has these could ya please e-mail them to me
GaryF
[email protected]

pawpawsd
Can anyone tell me what

Can anyone tell me what direction the fan attached to the rear panel blows?

Into the unit or out?

Thanks!

Drewlak
Hello All,

Hello All,
Same story (v26, 52525).
Can someone send me the documents or service manual as well.
Thanks!

[email protected]

Hartz8
I, like many others, have the

I, like many others, have the "blinking green light of death." Can anyone please send me the repair instructions. Thanks!

[email protected]

daniel morales
hi my problem is tv

hi my problem is tv mitsubishi mod wd-52525 i change the circuit str w 6735 but no work in front panel no light moving mabe some times disturb for moment some solution tankyou i wating you answer bye

Bopper
Larry, can you please send me

Larry, can you please send me the repair document for the WD 52525. I had replaced the 4 capacitors about a year ago, and now I have the blinking light issue. I have the

clayton
please help me someone. ive

please help me someone. ive taken the back of the chassis off and the plate. im sitting here looking at the three boards. I CANT GET THEM OUT. HOW DO YOU GET THEM OUT? ive unscrewed every visible screw from the back and they sure as hell dont just slide out. i have the model wd-52525 obviously and would love any kind of help on getting to the dm board in order to replace the bad capacitors. my email is [email protected]

CRS
Hello - I too have the

Hello - I too have the blinking green light on my wd-52525.. Can someone please forward me the repair docs to [email protected]?

Thank you!!!!

GatorEngineer
Hey guys, sorry for the delay

Hey guys, sorry for the delay in posting. After fixing the various capacitor problems, replacing the ballast, and replacing the lamp, I still was not able to rid my set of the red lamp LED. I decided I could not continue to spend time on this so I have decided to move on. Thanks to everyone here for their help and I wish you all better luck than I had.

clayton
i have given up as well. i

i have given up as well. i wasnt even able to get as far as freeing the dm board. and i will throw away the mit p.o.s piece by piece

Larry Dillon
sorry man i know these DLP

sorry man i know these DLP sets definatly have a major defect that goes bad in many of these models
Larry Dillon

Larry Dillon
sorry man i know these DLP

sorry man i know these DLP sets defiantly have a major defect that goes bad in many of these models
Larry Dillon

backwardb
Gator and dayton,

Gator and dayton,
There was someone on one of these threads that was wanting to buy boards. Might be worth the time to search for. Just a thought.

gzesz
I also have a Mits wd-52525

I also have a Mits wd-52525 that I replaced caps on the power supply board about 6 months ago, I'm guessing some caps are bad on the other boards cause I'm getting the dreaded blinking green light. Does anyone have a capacitor list so I can order them before I start taking it apart again.. Thanks [email protected]

Pammer00
I am having awful time with

I am having awful time with my WD 52525 model as well. blue screen with big lighter fuzz ball in center, no picture or sound. anything you guys can send me to help would be appreciated. [email protected]

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