skyboss said: That's good advice and I'm thinking of doing just that, however, do I replace all of the caps on the DM board? The power board? All of the caps in the TV? They are pretty cheap, but there is a bunch of them!
Hey Skyboss, you might also want to change the SMD caps. They are the round short sliver components on the board. Just be very careful as that board is very delicate and pulling up on the SMD caps might peel off the copper. Use tweezers and a thin soldering tip. Gently lift one side then work on the other. Good luck.
Replacing the caps with higher voltage may not be what it needs, but instead a higher ripple current rating. Both to be safe. As for replacing the caps and still getting the blinking light, my latest WD52525 repair has the same problem. The blinking green light means the processor is trying to boot. I discovered that the FMT board was interfering with the boot process. Try removing the power connector to the FMT board and then see if the computer boots. Mine did, then I replaced the power connector and the TV worked fine. Trouble is you have to do this each time power is removed (I don't mean turn off, but if it's unplugged from the wall), but at least it tells you the FMT board is defective
Eansy Beansy said:
Hey Skyboss, you might also want to change the SMD caps. They are the round short sliver components on the board. Just be very careful as that board is very delicate and pulling up on the SMD caps might peel off the copper. Use tweezers and a thin soldering tip. Gently lift one side then work on the other. Good luck.
EB
Do you think the surface mounted caps might have been damage too? Just curious.
Eansy Beansy said: Hey Skyboss, you might also want to change the SMD caps. They are the round short sliver components on the board. Just be very careful as that board is very delicate and pulling up on the SMD caps might peel off the copper. Use tweezers and a thin soldering tip. Gently lift one side then work on the other. Good luck. EB
Do you think the surface mounted caps might have been damage too? Just curious.
I GOT THE FOLLOWING FROM ANOTHER TECHLORE MEMBER WHO WROTE:
In reference to the XX525, XX725, and XX825 sets.
I've worked on a few of these now and I have to say if you want a proper fix then most of the smd caps will have to go on the FMT and DM boards.
In addition to the caps that Larry suggests there are also 2 330uf @ 16v caps on the signal board, and 2 1000uf @ 10v caps on the TERM 2 board that will need to be replaced.
I also replace all 100uf smd's, 47uf smds and 220uf smd's. sometimes even the 22uf's and the 10uf's. It's a big job and not for the amature. plan on about 5 hours worth of cap changing if you're good with solder. Smd caps are hard to work with and I've been replacing them with regular caps with no problems. I've also been upping the voltage to 25/35v 105C on the replacements. If you replace the 10uf smd's make sure to pay attention because some of them are none polar.
I've had good success this way but I have to say I dread working on these TV's. Well over 100 caps need to go!
I would simply like to hear from those who have done the cap replacement and the TV worked fine afterward. I have been waiting until work slowed down enough for me to have enough time to do this, but I would rather pay someone if it is only a temporary fix. Per above, 100 caps have to be replaced, and I will never have time for this. Yes, I put a lot of money into the set, but maybe I should cut my losses...
I have a 2004 WD-52525, v-26 chasis. Other than change bulbs every 8-10 months, had no issues until last year. I had the GBLOD that was fixed by replacing the two 3300uf capacitors on the power board. It has worked for 14 months and now I have the green timer light blinking again. When I could get the green light to quit blinking, it showed error code 37. Found fan with blade locked up, wedged with what looked like a piece of frazzled thread from dust rag. Took the power board out and found a different capacitor leaking (labeled C9A41 on the board) as well as a couple of other bulging capacitors 1000uf 16v. Those 2 were a group of 4 capacitors that have been recommended to change (labeled C9A51, 52, 61, and 62). Took the board to an ASC to have the capacitors changed out. I told tech about the capacitor issue much discussed in the forums and wanted him to replace with higher voltage caps. All he wanted to do was argue that voltage had nothing to do with it. It was designed to filter certain frequencies, blah, blah, blah. He was going to check with Mitsubishi to see if they had changed the capacitor value to use. When I came back and picked up the board, he told me that they were using the same value capicitors but he changed the leaking one with a 1500uf 10v and for the other four he replaced two of them with 1500uf 16v and two of them with 470uf 25v caps. He said that I still had 2000uf capacitance per set the way they were connected. I add up 1970, and don't know if he is right or wrong or if it makes any difference. Put board back in TV and now green light blinks continuously and cannot get it to do anything else, unplug and hit reset numerous times.
Called Mitsubishi consumer services and got nothing but take to an ASC and get quote and they might pay for some of the cost to get chasis rebuilt.
Called different ASC than I took board to and they want entire TV to do anything and refused to tell me what correct cap value is for those changed out by the other ASC. Made me mad enough to pull the chasis back out and tear it all down. Even have all boards completely apart. See bulging caps on DM and MI? board. Am going to try to replace them as well as the 5 caps the ASSc replaced. If that doesn't fix it, I got a gully that is going to get the tv placed strategically in it as an expensive fixture for erosion control.
Anybody out there that can identify the cap in queston so that I put the right thing back in? I am pretty sure it was 1000uf, but could not see voltage rating on it. Not sure of brand but was not a Jamicon. Also can anyone tell me if the tech was full of it for replacing other four caps with different values.
Hello to everyone. I have looked through many of the various forums regarding all of the issues with these Mitsubishi models and this post looks very active. I've inherited a 52525 model and tried to do some debugging myself, but I don't have much to compare my results against. Here is some info:
Before I was given the TV, I was told it would intermittently shut off, only turning back on by doing a hard reset. Eventually this problem got worse and worse until it would turn on with no picture and just sound. The TV was given to me in that condition and there was a red lamp LED illuminated. The service manual gave an error code for "lamp abnormality". After reading through these forums, the first thing I did was look at the caps. By far the worst caps were the two 3300uf on the power board and 4 1000uf on the FMT board. I replaced these, but unfortunately I wasn't that lucky.
So here is some additional info:
Where I am at right now, when I plug the TV into the outlet (haven't pushed the power button yet) I measure all of the voltage test points on the power board. Here are the results:
Now I'm not sure if the lower voltages (3.3 to 12) are supposed to read that way until you actually turn the TV on (press the power button). Once I do press the power button and the TV actually begins to fire up, they all read correctly. Does anyone with a working model know if this is correct? Or are they supposed to read the correct voltages immediately after being plugged in (I doubt it)?
Another interesting note is when the TV power button is pressed and begins to power up, I hear a high pitch (I'm guessing the color wheel) but don't here anything in the lamp ballast board. I believe I've read I should here cracking and popping. Therefore I decided to measure the voltage coming into the ballast from the power supply. This is what is the most interesting to me. As soon as I attempt to measure the voltage between these two wires (a brown and a green) the LAMP WILL BRIEFLY POWER UP. It never lights up at any other time. It only does this once per reset (plugging the TV in and waiting for the blinking timer followed by the pressing of the power button). The voltage that I do read is 334V. Does anyone have any input on this? Is the 334V the correct voltage that goes to the ballast? Is there any way to test what the output of the ballast should be going into the bulb?
Sorry for the long post, but I have been working on this for a little while now. I've read other posts and can't see anything exactly like this (especially with the bulb powering up only when measuring). Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
i have a 52525 tv. the timer light is on and it doesnot get started, what should i do . con any one plz help me out . send me the answer at [email protected] thanks
I have fixed the exact issue of the lamp going on briefly when measuring the ballast voltage. 80% of the time, it has been the ballast. The other 20% it has been both a bad ballast AND lamp. Most of the time you will get either a bad ballast or lamp. Mitsu says to ALWAYS replace both if replacing a bad ballast, point being, sometimes, the lamp has an intermittent short and is causing too much current to flow thru the ballast.
On a different note to all the caps that have been said to need changing in this set,you don't have to go thru guessing at which caps are bad and good. In most SMD cap and regular electrolytic cap replacement situations, you will find either a physically leaking cap, in which the electrolytic fluid will be found on the circuit board around the faulty cap and smell kind of like bad fish or cat urin, the top popped, or, you will be able to measure the bad capacitance, either with a cap meter or a plain old ohm meter, even while still in the circuit.
Also, don't forget to check those little fuses they have everywhere. If you do find an open fuse, make sure to check down circuit (or at least the caps in the general area and voltage regulating transistor packs(they look like a 3-5 legged transistor) and zener diodes(usually 2 legs and in Mitsu's they are normally orange with a black stripe) for shorts).
When checking a cap with a regular ohm meter, you should see a rise in resistance quickly, then stop and hold at a specific point. If you reverse the polarity (swap the red and black leads of your ohm meter), you will see the same thing.
If it goes and down, doesn't go up, goes up stops then slowly goes down, or shows a short, you probably have a bad cap 95% of the time. There are always exceptions to this rule in electronics, however, this is a good basic way to test to see if the caps are bad or not. That will save you loads of time guessing your way thru a large amount of capacitor changing.
Hope this helps a bit and good luck with your repair.
-- Also, on a note for capacitance and capacitor changes pertaining to polarized electrolytic types in a power supply filter configuration as in the popular four 1000uf, 16V replacement repair goes. Since it is a filter situation, you can INCREASE the capacitance. This gives the circuit more filtering and more on demand current availability to the circuit it is powering.
So, you can replace a 1000uf cap with a 2200uf, 3300uf, and so on. As long you keep the same type of polarized electrolytic style cap and assure the voltage rating of the replacement cap is AT LEAST the same, it will work fine and probably last a lot longer.
You can also go larger in voltage capacity, meaning the voltage the electrolytic cap can handle. If you replace, say, a 1000uf, 16V cap with another cap rated at 1000uf with a voltage rating of 25V, 35V, or even higher, the only thing you are doing is allowing for more voltage "head room". Just like if you had a waterline that ran at 30psi and the pipes it ran thru were rated for 35psi, it would work, but you might have a failure soon. If you had the same water running at 30psi running thru a pipe that could withstand 60psi, you probably would not have a failure in a very, very long time. Voltage ratings on caps work that same way in keeping the "water pressure" in line. If you have a 14V circuit, you could use a 16V cap and it would work, but you would have a failure soon as opposed to if you used a 25V or 35 V cap in place if the 16V one.
Let me know if you have any questions reguarding which caps to use for replacements. Happy Holidays!!!
My WD-52525 has the blinking green light - I just replaced bulged caps on the board that the power cord hooks to - but it didn't fix the problem - Could you email me the documents to repair the DM board? my email is [email protected] thank you for all of your advice - Drew
Thanks for the great response. So do you think it was an intermittent short in the lamp that caused the ballast to fail or do you think it has something to do with the cap issue? If just replacing the ballast fixes the problem, then that will be great, but I would really like to understand why it failed. This way I can prevent it from doing so again instead of just temporarily "fixing" the problem. Also, do you have a particular site where you ordered your replacement from? Have you fixed this on several TVs or did this just work on yours?
Thanks again for all of the information and I will update everyone as I continue working on this!
Here is my solution- After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) boardÂ’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again.
You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done! Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normallyÂ… Again you are doneÂ…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV wonÂ’t turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair Manual –full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
In regards to my post, do you know the correct cap value for the one located in the top left hand corner of the powerboard at the top left corner of the two heat sinks. Also of the cluster of 4 1000uf 16v caps on the right side of the powerboard, can you mix and match different uf values?
buddylove1986 said: Here is my solution- After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back. The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board's microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec...) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled "FC". It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can't get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can't short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled. Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like) Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done! Yeah! From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally... Again you are done... Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won't turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above. Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair Manual -full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
Hey BuddyLove1986: Awesome instructions on the FMT, Thanks! I was looking at my service manual and noticed it is not the full version. Could you show me some Luv and possibly send me a copy of the full version? I'm at [email protected]
Wow what a thread i just read 55 pages and wow. I wonder if someone would be so kind as to end me the fix files? i'm at [email protected]
Thanks & God Bless
Could you look in the manual you have and see if it has a parts list showing capacitors. My service manual parts list does not list caps. If yours does, I am interested in knowing the value of the capacitor with the reference # C9A41. It is located on the top left corner of the power board.
I'd hate to pay to download the manual only to find out it is what I already have or doesn't have the info I need.
If anybody has their powerboard out at the moment, would you mind looking to see what cap is in that reference #. The numbers are printed on both sides of the board.
Could you look in the manual you have and see if it has a parts list showing capacitors. My service manual parts list does not list caps. If yours does, I am interested in knowing the value of the capacitor with the reference # C9A41. It is located on the top left corner of the power board.
I'd hate to pay to download the manual only to find out it is what I already have or doesn't have the info I need.
If anybody has their powerboard out at the moment, would you mind looking to see what cap is in that reference #. The numbers are printed on both sides of the board.
Could you look in the manual you have and see if it has a parts list showing capacitors. My service manual parts list does not list caps. If yours does, I am interested in knowing the value of the capacitor with the reference # C9A41. It is located on the top left corner of the power board. I'd hate to pay to download the manual only to find out it is what I already have or doesn't have the info I need. If anybody has their powerboard out at the moment, would you mind looking to see what cap is in that reference #. The numbers are printed on both sides of the board.
It is Free to downlode
First time I went there, it told me there were no free downloads available, had to pay for premium service. This time it gave me download button.
Larry,
I just replaced the lamp on my Mitsubishi WD-52525 Rear Projection Television set and I have a blinking green light on the timer. How do I get rid of this, Oh by the way the T.V set will not come on.
hey , that fast blinking light on the timer is extremely common, my model is wd 52525, and it seems like its happening every year /new lamp/new board?? My friend use to remove it for me, now he's gone. Can u send me a manual/guide ? i really appreciate the help [email protected]
hi Larry can you please send me all the zip files(don't mind unpacking them for FREE HELP UNLIKE BRAD) for the repair on this model WD-52525 --- thanks in advance [email protected] ---------- Trish
Hi everyone.
Can anyone send me the Repair Doc for the Green Blinking light.. My WD-52525 works, but for some reason every so often it stops and I get the Blinking light. After a spell I usually can get it working but I want to check the doc so if I can do some preventive maintenance, I would like too before more damage accurs.. Thank You all... And Have a Happy New Year..
WD-52525, Got it going again. Changed out 12 1000uf 16v caps and 2 1000uf 10v caps on 4 boards. Still had timer light blinking, then installed the switch on the cable labeled FC. Worked like a charm.
Changed out 2 3300uf cap 14 months ago for GBLOD issue.
My advice would be to change out the 2 3300uf caps on the power board, all the 1000uf caps on all the boards (4 10v and 13 16v according to the service manual), any other caps that look swollen, and install a switch the first time you get the GBLOD.
I went thru tvrepairs.com and talked to Ed. I got a dozen 16v 1000uf caps and 2 pico fuses, but didn't need the fuses. I bet they can put together a package. I would think all the 1000uf caps could be 16v, I had no clearance issues and the cap were slightly taller than those I replaced. Didn't go with higher voltage because Ed said his caps were 10,000 hr rated and would last.
HELP...I have the Mitsubishi WD-52525 or W52725 (not sure which at the moment). My TV shuts down in the middle of viewing and the green timer light will continue to flash until I hit the reset button. I've now noticed that even when I do the reset the TV will come on but can only be viewed in 480P. I can't get 1080i. In addition if the TV works fine for a few hours to watch a program I will then turn it off without issue. The next day the TV Timer light will just start flashing all on it's own regardless of whether or not it had been turned on earlier that day. Very odd. Can someone please help me repair my TV? I would really like someone to come fix it, but if I have to take it apart and repair it myself I'll do it. I live in Reno, NV if there are any people capable of repairs on this site. :) My email is [email protected] and if you send me a message just put TV repair in subject so I know you're not a spammer.
Hi there, I am hoping you can help. We too now have the blinking green light. We own a Mitsubishi 1080i 55 inch TV, model number WS-55613. It is a little over 3 years old. The TV just shut off, we could not get it to power on and when we unplugged TV, we now have a continuous blinking green light. We would prefer to avoid the costly repair charge. Can you send up the manual for the fix? Our email is [email protected]. We really appreciate your help and any info you can give us.
I reciently decided to repalce my bulb due to a dim pic. I got the Philips. Placed it in and am now getting a flashing green light as so many have described and then it turns to red.... No Pic no Sound... Put old bulb back in to see if I had a defective bulb... same problem... Any Suggestions. Please e-mail me at [email protected]
mitsubishi 52725, started out : won't turn on, just blinking timer green light, checked the fuses & 1 circuit board, no swollen or burned capacitors, put it back together, NOW it's a blinking light for the STATUS ! can someone post a PICTURE Of the DM board in this thing ? I'd like to be sure I'm looking at the right one. IF i know WHAT to fix , I can fix it, But Don't have a clue as to exactly WHAT I'm looking for. Thanks
Hey Skyboss, you might also want to change the SMD caps. They are the round short sliver components on the board. Just be very careful as that board is very delicate and pulling up on the SMD caps might peel off the copper. Use tweezers and a thin soldering tip. Gently lift one side then work on the other. Good luck.
EB
Replacing the caps with higher voltage may not be what it needs, but instead a higher ripple current rating. Both to be safe. As for replacing the caps and still getting the blinking light, my latest WD52525 repair has the same problem. The blinking green light means the processor is trying to boot. I discovered that the FMT board was interfering with the boot process. Try removing the power connector to the FMT board and then see if the computer boots. Mine did, then I replaced the power connector and the TV worked fine. Trouble is you have to do this each time power is removed (I don't mean turn off, but if it's unplugged from the wall), but at least it tells you the FMT board is defective
Do you think the surface mounted caps might have been damage too? Just curious.
I GOT THE FOLLOWING FROM ANOTHER TECHLORE MEMBER WHO WROTE:
In reference to the XX525, XX725, and XX825 sets.
I've worked on a few of these now and I have to say if you want a proper fix then most of the smd caps will have to go on the FMT and DM boards.
In addition to the caps that Larry suggests there are also 2 330uf @ 16v caps on the signal board, and 2 1000uf @ 10v caps on the TERM 2 board that will need to be replaced.
I also replace all 100uf smd's, 47uf smds and 220uf smd's. sometimes even the 22uf's and the 10uf's. It's a big job and not for the amature. plan on about 5 hours worth of cap changing if you're good with solder. Smd caps are hard to work with and I've been replacing them with regular caps with no problems. I've also been upping the voltage to 25/35v 105C on the replacements. If you replace the 10uf smd's make sure to pay attention because some of them are none polar.
I've had good success this way but I have to say I dread working on these TV's. Well over 100 caps need to go!
I would simply like to hear from those who have done the cap replacement and the TV worked fine afterward. I have been waiting until work slowed down enough for me to have enough time to do this, but I would rather pay someone if it is only a temporary fix. Per above, 100 caps have to be replaced, and I will never have time for this. Yes, I put a lot of money into the set, but maybe I should cut my losses...
I have a 2004 WD-52525, v-26 chasis. Other than change bulbs every 8-10 months, had no issues until last year. I had the GBLOD that was fixed by replacing the two 3300uf capacitors on the power board. It has worked for 14 months and now I have the green timer light blinking again. When I could get the green light to quit blinking, it showed error code 37. Found fan with blade locked up, wedged with what looked like a piece of frazzled thread from dust rag. Took the power board out and found a different capacitor leaking (labeled C9A41 on the board) as well as a couple of other bulging capacitors 1000uf 16v. Those 2 were a group of 4 capacitors that have been recommended to change (labeled C9A51, 52, 61, and 62). Took the board to an ASC to have the capacitors changed out. I told tech about the capacitor issue much discussed in the forums and wanted him to replace with higher voltage caps. All he wanted to do was argue that voltage had nothing to do with it. It was designed to filter certain frequencies, blah, blah, blah. He was going to check with Mitsubishi to see if they had changed the capacitor value to use. When I came back and picked up the board, he told me that they were using the same value capicitors but he changed the leaking one with a 1500uf 10v and for the other four he replaced two of them with 1500uf 16v and two of them with 470uf 25v caps. He said that I still had 2000uf capacitance per set the way they were connected. I add up 1970, and don't know if he is right or wrong or if it makes any difference. Put board back in TV and now green light blinks continuously and cannot get it to do anything else, unplug and hit reset numerous times.
Called Mitsubishi consumer services and got nothing but take to an ASC and get quote and they might pay for some of the cost to get chasis rebuilt.
Called different ASC than I took board to and they want entire TV to do anything and refused to tell me what correct cap value is for those changed out by the other ASC. Made me mad enough to pull the chasis back out and tear it all down. Even have all boards completely apart. See bulging caps on DM and MI? board. Am going to try to replace them as well as the 5 caps the ASSc replaced. If that doesn't fix it, I got a gully that is going to get the tv placed strategically in it as an expensive fixture for erosion control.
Anybody out there that can identify the cap in queston so that I put the right thing back in? I am pretty sure it was 1000uf, but could not see voltage rating on it. Not sure of brand but was not a Jamicon. Also can anyone tell me if the tech was full of it for replacing other four caps with different values.
Hello to everyone. I have looked through many of the various forums regarding all of the issues with these Mitsubishi models and this post looks very active. I've inherited a 52525 model and tried to do some debugging myself, but I don't have much to compare my results against. Here is some info:
Before I was given the TV, I was told it would intermittently shut off, only turning back on by doing a hard reset. Eventually this problem got worse and worse until it would turn on with no picture and just sound. The TV was given to me in that condition and there was a red lamp LED illuminated. The service manual gave an error code for "lamp abnormality". After reading through these forums, the first thing I did was look at the caps. By far the worst caps were the two 3300uf on the power board and 4 1000uf on the FMT board. I replaced these, but unfortunately I wasn't that lucky.
So here is some additional info:
Where I am at right now, when I plug the TV into the outlet (haven't pushed the power button yet) I measure all of the voltage test points on the power board. Here are the results:
TP3.3 = 0
TP5 = 0.84
TP10 = 0
TP12 = 0.2
TP12.5 = 12.25
TP15 = 17.4
TP-15 = -17.4
TP30.5 = 30.6
Now I'm not sure if the lower voltages (3.3 to 12) are supposed to read that way until you actually turn the TV on (press the power button). Once I do press the power button and the TV actually begins to fire up, they all read correctly. Does anyone with a working model know if this is correct? Or are they supposed to read the correct voltages immediately after being plugged in (I doubt it)?
Another interesting note is when the TV power button is pressed and begins to power up, I hear a high pitch (I'm guessing the color wheel) but don't here anything in the lamp ballast board. I believe I've read I should here cracking and popping. Therefore I decided to measure the voltage coming into the ballast from the power supply. This is what is the most interesting to me. As soon as I attempt to measure the voltage between these two wires (a brown and a green) the LAMP WILL BRIEFLY POWER UP. It never lights up at any other time. It only does this once per reset (plugging the TV in and waiting for the blinking timer followed by the pressing of the power button). The voltage that I do read is 334V. Does anyone have any input on this? Is the 334V the correct voltage that goes to the ballast? Is there any way to test what the output of the ballast should be going into the bulb?
Sorry for the long post, but I have been working on this for a little while now. I've read other posts and can't see anything exactly like this (especially with the bulb powering up only when measuring). Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
i have a 52525 tv. the timer light is on and it doesnot get started, what should i do . con any one plz help me out . send me the answer at [email protected] thanks
Gator,
I have fixed the exact issue of the lamp going on briefly when measuring the ballast voltage. 80% of the time, it has been the ballast. The other 20% it has been both a bad ballast AND lamp. Most of the time you will get either a bad ballast or lamp. Mitsu says to ALWAYS replace both if replacing a bad ballast, point being, sometimes, the lamp has an intermittent short and is causing too much current to flow thru the ballast.
On a different note to all the caps that have been said to need changing in this set,you don't have to go thru guessing at which caps are bad and good. In most SMD cap and regular electrolytic cap replacement situations, you will find either a physically leaking cap, in which the electrolytic fluid will be found on the circuit board around the faulty cap and smell kind of like bad fish or cat urin, the top popped, or, you will be able to measure the bad capacitance, either with a cap meter or a plain old ohm meter, even while still in the circuit.
Also, don't forget to check those little fuses they have everywhere. If you do find an open fuse, make sure to check down circuit (or at least the caps in the general area and voltage regulating transistor packs(they look like a 3-5 legged transistor) and zener diodes(usually 2 legs and in Mitsu's they are normally orange with a black stripe) for shorts).
When checking a cap with a regular ohm meter, you should see a rise in resistance quickly, then stop and hold at a specific point. If you reverse the polarity (swap the red and black leads of your ohm meter), you will see the same thing.
If it goes and down, doesn't go up, goes up stops then slowly goes down, or shows a short, you probably have a bad cap 95% of the time. There are always exceptions to this rule in electronics, however, this is a good basic way to test to see if the caps are bad or not. That will save you loads of time guessing your way thru a large amount of capacitor changing.
Hope this helps a bit and good luck with your repair.
-- Also, on a note for capacitance and capacitor changes pertaining to polarized electrolytic types in a power supply filter configuration as in the popular four 1000uf, 16V replacement repair goes. Since it is a filter situation, you can INCREASE the capacitance. This gives the circuit more filtering and more on demand current availability to the circuit it is powering.
So, you can replace a 1000uf cap with a 2200uf, 3300uf, and so on. As long you keep the same type of polarized electrolytic style cap and assure the voltage rating of the replacement cap is AT LEAST the same, it will work fine and probably last a lot longer.
You can also go larger in voltage capacity, meaning the voltage the electrolytic cap can handle. If you replace, say, a 1000uf, 16V cap with another cap rated at 1000uf with a voltage rating of 25V, 35V, or even higher, the only thing you are doing is allowing for more voltage "head room". Just like if you had a waterline that ran at 30psi and the pipes it ran thru were rated for 35psi, it would work, but you might have a failure soon. If you had the same water running at 30psi running thru a pipe that could withstand 60psi, you probably would not have a failure in a very, very long time. Voltage ratings on caps work that same way in keeping the "water pressure" in line. If you have a 14V circuit, you could use a 16V cap and it would work, but you would have a failure soon as opposed to if you used a 25V or 35 V cap in place if the 16V one.
Let me know if you have any questions reguarding which caps to use for replacements. Happy Holidays!!!
Hello Larry,
My WD-52525 has the blinking green light - I just replaced bulged caps on the board that the power cord hooks to - but it didn't fix the problem - Could you email me the documents to repair the DM board? my email is [email protected] thank you for all of your advice - Drew
Flaming,
Thanks for the great response. So do you think it was an intermittent short in the lamp that caused the ballast to fail or do you think it has something to do with the cap issue? If just replacing the ballast fixes the problem, then that will be great, but I would really like to understand why it failed. This way I can prevent it from doing so again instead of just temporarily "fixing" the problem. Also, do you have a particular site where you ordered your replacement from? Have you fixed this on several TVs or did this just work on yours?
Thanks again for all of the information and I will update everyone as I continue working on this!
Here is my solution- After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) boardÂ’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again.
You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done! Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normallyÂ… Again you are doneÂ…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV wonÂ’t turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair Manual –full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
Flamingdeath,
In regards to my post, do you know the correct cap value for the one located in the top left hand corner of the powerboard at the top left corner of the two heat sinks. Also of the cluster of 4 1000uf 16v caps on the right side of the powerboard, can you mix and match different uf values?
Thanks
Hey BuddyLove1986: Awesome instructions on the FMT, Thanks! I was looking at my service manual and noticed it is not the full version. Could you show me some Luv and possibly send me a copy of the full version? I'm at [email protected]
Thanks,
EB
Wow what a thread i just read 55 pages and wow. I wonder if someone would be so kind as to end me the fix files? i'm at [email protected]
Thanks & God Bless
V26_Service_Manual__full_.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/325159695/V26_Service_Manual__full_.pdf
Could you look in the manual you have and see if it has a parts list showing capacitors. My service manual parts list does not list caps. If yours does, I am interested in knowing the value of the capacitor with the reference # C9A41. It is located on the top left corner of the power board.
I'd hate to pay to download the manual only to find out it is what I already have or doesn't have the info I need.
If anybody has their powerboard out at the moment, would you mind looking to see what cap is in that reference #. The numbers are printed on both sides of the board.
First time I went there, it told me there were no free downloads available, had to pay for premium service. This time it gave me download button.
Got it thanks, I was looking at WD-52525 service manual and not v-26 chassis service manual.
Larry,
I just replaced the lamp on my Mitsubishi WD-52525 Rear Projection Television set and I have a blinking green light on the timer. How do I get rid of this, Oh by the way the T.V set will not come on.
hey , that fast blinking light on the timer is extremely common, my model is wd 52525, and it seems like its happening every year /new lamp/new board?? My friend use to remove it for me, now he's gone. Can u send me a manual/guide ? i really appreciate the help
[email protected]
Mike
hi Larry can you please send me all the zip files(don't mind unpacking them for FREE HELP UNLIKE BRAD) for the repair on this model WD-52525 --- thanks in advance [email protected] ---------- Trish
Hi everyone.
Can anyone send me the Repair Doc for the Green Blinking light.. My WD-52525 works, but for some reason every so often it stops and I get the Blinking light. After a spell I usually can get it working but I want to check the doc so if I can do some preventive maintenance, I would like too before more damage accurs.. Thank You all... And Have a Happy New Year..
Tom [email protected]
WD-52525, Got it going again. Changed out 12 1000uf 16v caps and 2 1000uf 10v caps on 4 boards. Still had timer light blinking, then installed the switch on the cable labeled FC. Worked like a charm.
Changed out 2 3300uf cap 14 months ago for GBLOD issue.
My advice would be to change out the 2 3300uf caps on the power board, all the 1000uf caps on all the boards (4 10v and 13 16v according to the service manual), any other caps that look swollen, and install a switch the first time you get the GBLOD.
I went thru tvrepairs.com and talked to Ed. I got a dozen 16v 1000uf caps and 2 pico fuses, but didn't need the fuses. I bet they can put together a package. I would think all the 1000uf caps could be 16v, I had no clearance issues and the cap were slightly taller than those I replaced. Didn't go with higher voltage because Ed said his caps were 10,000 hr rated and would last.
HELP...I have the Mitsubishi WD-52525 or W52725 (not sure which at the moment). My TV shuts down in the middle of viewing and the green timer light will continue to flash until I hit the reset button. I've now noticed that even when I do the reset the TV will come on but can only be viewed in 480P. I can't get 1080i. In addition if the TV works fine for a few hours to watch a program I will then turn it off without issue. The next day the TV Timer light will just start flashing all on it's own regardless of whether or not it had been turned on earlier that day. Very odd. Can someone please help me repair my TV? I would really like someone to come fix it, but if I have to take it apart and repair it myself I'll do it. I live in Reno, NV if there are any people capable of repairs on this site. :) My email is [email protected] and if you send me a message just put TV repair in subject so I know you're not a spammer.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi there, I am hoping you can help. We too now have the blinking green light. We own a Mitsubishi 1080i 55 inch TV, model number WS-55613. It is a little over 3 years old. The TV just shut off, we could not get it to power on and when we unplugged TV, we now have a continuous blinking green light. We would prefer to avoid the costly repair charge. Can you send up the manual for the fix? Our email is [email protected]. We really appreciate your help and any info you can give us.
Hi,
I reciently decided to repalce my bulb due to a dim pic. I got the Philips. Placed it in and am now getting a flashing green light as so many have described and then it turns to red.... No Pic no Sound... Put old bulb back in to see if I had a defective bulb... same problem... Any Suggestions. Please e-mail me at [email protected]
Thanks
mitsubishi 52725, started out : won't turn on, just blinking timer green light, checked the fuses & 1 circuit board, no swollen or burned capacitors, put it back together, NOW it's a blinking light for the STATUS ! can someone post a PICTURE Of the DM board in this thing ? I'd like to be sure I'm looking at the right one. IF i know WHAT to fix , I can fix it, But Don't have a clue as to exactly WHAT I'm looking for. Thanks
Larry, Can you please send me the necessary docs required to fix the DM board issue on the WD52525 to [email protected]?
Thank you!
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