I too have the blinking green light. I have a WD-52525, can someone please send me any sevice manuals they have on this TV. I am going to attempt to remove and repair the DM board. Any info and service manuals or pics would be great. Thanks, Miguel [email protected]
Pijiu
Did you rep-lace the two 3300uf caps and the four 1000uf on the front power board? I dont think the 3.3v comes on until it boots up. I had the red light once but I cant remember what I did to fix it.
Larry, can you send me the repair instructions....I already have one of the boards out. I want to make sure I fix all the ones I need to, with the right sizes, the first go around. Do I need a sodder sucker? Special Sodder? Do I need to be cautious of the heat and the board? [email protected]
I have a Mitsu WD-52525 and my tv wont display video and turns off after about 20 seconds. The lamp indicator light comes on and I get error 34. So after I change the lamp I still get the same error? can some one tell me if I need to replace capatitors or what? would the bad capasitors be on the DM board or the optical engine? if you have any info on how to do this please send it to [email protected]
I'm have the same issue with my WD-52725. If someone can send me the manual for that or the WD-52525 that'd be great. I think they are basically the same.
How easy is it to repair this Green blinking timer light thing?
I need some help, should I just pay for a repairman or is there some
tricks to try before...?
Just for everyones record if you need the wide ribbon cable you can get it from http://www.digikey.com/ and the part number is HFF-50U-04-ND hope this helps.
Linda Sansom said: How easy is it to repair this Green blinking timer light thing? I need some help, should I just pay for a repairman or is there some tricks to try before...?
Linda it is not that hard but does take time and patience, I can walk you through it if you like, my direct email is [email protected]
Hello I am having the blinking green light problem with the WD-52525. Could someone please e-mail me the repair documents. I would greatly appreciate it..please [email protected]
Just a word of thanks to Larry Dillon for his documentations and to several Techlore members (Tony G., et al) for their expert advise. Was able to get my WD-52525 back up and running over the holidays and it has be running great ever since.
I had the rapid green blinking light which I could not get to reset. Tore the unit apart and found 11 swollen 1000uF caps on 4 boards (FMT, DM, Power, Termninal 2). Replaced the 11 caps and re-connected boards/cables in the TV, but still had the blinking green lighs.
I then pulled the 4-wire FC connectore off the FMT board and plugged the TV to AC outlet. After 1 minute the green blinking light went out and I re-connected the FC connector back on the FMT board. Was able to turn on the TV and my inputs (cable coax, DTV input, components) were all working. I can turn the TV on/off/on using the remote or from the TV front panel.
If I lose power to the TV (i.e. unplug it from AC), the continous green light problem comes back and I have to do the trick with the FC connector again.
As suggested by earlier Techlore postings, I cut the Orange wire (6VS line) on the FC connector and spliced in a small on/off toggle switch with about 3 feet of wire. Routed the toggle switch and wire to the front of the TV and taped it behind the gray speaker grill. The toggle switch was small enough to lay flat behind the front grill.
So far the TV has been working great as long as there is no power interruptions. Should I experience a power glitch and the blinking green light reoccurs, my steps to get the TV back up is:
- Turn AC off
- Pull grill off and set toggle swith to off
- Turn AC on and wait 1 minute for green blinking light stop
- Set toggle switch to on and place grill back on the TV
- Turn on TV with remote or from front panel
I have put together a combonation word document of several posts that helped me remove and install my caps and ribbon without the service manual if anyone would like it just email me with "request MITS" in subject line thanks Mike
Jim glad to hear you fixed it. I ran the wire through the front door way but anyway will do.
Mike221
What did you find with the cartoonish picture? Thanks for the links also. My tv been working so so. Just the few times with shut offs on its own. I sits in the basement now. $3500 for a cat to watch tv or when we partys.
I want to put this out there for all. I did find some information that there is a software update 4.06. I tried to call Mitsushitii but they will not send it to me because I fixed my tv and did not send it out( there words). Also she stated( I think, she didn't speak english to good) That its for only certain conditions. My tv is 4.01. That 5 software upgrades!!!!! Nice company. If anyone out there knows how to download it let me know. I know its programmed through the sd card slot. So the information will have to be programmed to a sd card.. I got about 10 of these cards. Anyway let me know
Tony G
After replacing the caps, I got the TV to boot up. But it does have a quirk. If I plug in the power cold (several minutes without power), it will give continuous blinking green light for ever. I need to unplug it for several seconds and plug it in for a second time, then it will have a successful boot.
Could this simulate the interrupting power to the FMT board as reported by Jim George?
BTY, I am still not getting video. But I suspect it's a bad lamp or ballast. No time to debug this yet. There is no easy way to test if the lamp is good or bad as it works by ionizing mercury vapor. I read some OSRAM doc that basically said that the ballast need to kick start the lamp by zapping it with several thousand volts. After that, the normal operation is only several hunderd volts. This explains the high voltage protection of the lamp wires. It's kind of like the spark plugs of automobile.
Anyone has a used working lamp that can give/sell me for cheap? I don't want to buy a brand new lamp to find a bad ballast and ends up with two good lamps.
My TV is a WD-52725 rather than the 52525 that is frequently discussed on here. But I wonder if anyone can provide any information.
For several weeks I had been noticing that the picture quality on my TV seemed to be deteriorating. The display didn't seem to be as crisp and vivid as it had been in the past. Then one evening a couple of days ago, it just shut down. I checked the lamp and it had gone out. Ordered a new lamp, installed it, and cleaned the filter. Powered up - nothing - endlessly blinking green LED!!
After much investigation, I learned of the burned capacitor problem and last night replaced 4 capacitors that seemed to be slightly bulged on their tops. Installed 1000uf/35v/105 degree components and reassembled the unit. Powered up - same thing as before - endlessly blinking green LED.
Can anyone offer any other suggestions? I'm at a loss.
Ok --- replaced all caps and reassembled. No more blinking green light, but now the light engine doesn't fire up. Another interesting symptom -- the rear cabinet fan doesn't come on either. Here's the process...
Plug in power. Power LED flashes green for about 30-45 seconds then goes out. Hit the power switch and the Power LED turns constant green. Normally, this is where you'd hear the light engine fan spin up and hear the ballast kicking in. Nothing. No fan, no ballast kick -- nothing. Only the sound of the fan on top of the chassis.
I've double checked my connections and cables and don't see anything wrong, but clearly I'm missing something.
Any ideas would be appreciated - either here or direct at 'jbernier at sbe.org'
Jim,
I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
Yes you need to have a meter to determine if you have bad capacitors. You would set the mode to Ohms and see if it's a open (sometimes labeled OL) or 0 ohms (good).
Reason for caps going bad is suspected to be poor design plan. Probably the caps are under rated hence it degrades faster than normal.
I used a meter. Not sure why these caps failed. I always replace caps with ones of higher voltage. Also never use caps of lower voltage or lower temperature. Most likely all caps will fail as they dry out. It seems to just be a matter of time. The electrolyte formula used can be a factor. High ripple currents in the circuit can be a factor. Since almost all of the 1000uf caps in these sets fail, it seems likely they had a production problem. While this may not be Mitsubishi's direct fault, i think they could be a tad more helpful. LIKE SCHEMATICS...
Sorry for shouting but maybe Mitsubishi is listening.
Dalbert said: Jim, I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse. Dan
Thanks for that... I'll take a look tonight and see what I find.
Dalbert said: Jim, I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse. Dan
Dan,
Just a quick sanity check before I tear back into the chassis... is there an interlock besides the filter that would prevent the light engine from turning on? By that, I did not put the rear panel and the rest of the cabinet together when I tested. Just want to make sure I didn't miss something.
Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps
And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
tony gregori said: Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
I knew about that one and did just that. I was kind of hoping there was another one that I overlooked before tearing back into the chassis :-(
I too have the blinking green light. I have a WD-52525, can someone please send me any sevice manuals they have on this TV. I am going to attempt to remove and repair the DM board. Any info and service manuals or pics would be great. Thanks, Miguel [email protected]
Thanks Much,
Miguel
Pijiu
Did you rep-lace the two 3300uf caps and the four 1000uf on the front power board? I dont think the 3.3v comes on until it boots up. I had the red light once but I cant remember what I did to fix it.
Larry, can you send me the repair instructions....I already have one of the boards out. I want to make sure I fix all the ones I need to, with the right sizes, the first go around. Do I need a sodder sucker? Special Sodder? Do I need to be cautious of the heat and the board? [email protected]
Thanks much, Miguel
I have a Mitsu WD-52525 and my tv wont display video and turns off after about 20 seconds. The lamp indicator light comes on and I get error 34. So after I change the lamp I still get the same error? can some one tell me if I need to replace capatitors or what? would the bad capasitors be on the DM board or the optical engine? if you have any info on how to do this please send it to [email protected]
Oh.. no...
Apparently while removing the shield, it seems I damaged the FA flex connector. Is there a replacement source anyone is aware of?
Yes it is.
I'm have the same issue with my WD-52725. If someone can send me the manual for that or the WD-52525 that'd be great. I think they are basically the same.
Thanks,
.sam
[email protected]
(sorry for dup message)
I need the manual for the WD-52725. I think this is basically the same as the WD-52525. If someone can send me that'd be great.
Thank you,
.sam
[email protected]
I have not had any luck getting to the cards in my WD-52725. The casings are very restricting. Please let me know if you have sucessfully found a way.
Thanks.
Eliot
How easy is it to repair this Green blinking timer light thing?
I need some help, should I just pay for a repairman or is there some
tricks to try before...?
Just for everyones record if you need the wide ribbon cable you can get it from http://www.digikey.com/ and the part number is HFF-50U-04-ND hope this helps.
Linda it is not that hard but does take time and patience, I can walk you through it if you like, my direct email is [email protected]
Hello I am having the blinking green light problem with the WD-52525. Could someone please e-mail me the repair documents. I would greatly appreciate it..please [email protected]
Just a word of thanks to Larry Dillon for his documentations and to several Techlore members (Tony G., et al) for their expert advise. Was able to get my WD-52525 back up and running over the holidays and it has be running great ever since.
I had the rapid green blinking light which I could not get to reset. Tore the unit apart and found 11 swollen 1000uF caps on 4 boards (FMT, DM, Power, Termninal 2). Replaced the 11 caps and re-connected boards/cables in the TV, but still had the blinking green lighs.
I then pulled the 4-wire FC connectore off the FMT board and plugged the TV to AC outlet. After 1 minute the green blinking light went out and I re-connected the FC connector back on the FMT board. Was able to turn on the TV and my inputs (cable coax, DTV input, components) were all working. I can turn the TV on/off/on using the remote or from the TV front panel.
If I lose power to the TV (i.e. unplug it from AC), the continous green light problem comes back and I have to do the trick with the FC connector again.
As suggested by earlier Techlore postings, I cut the Orange wire (6VS line) on the FC connector and spliced in a small on/off toggle switch with about 3 feet of wire. Routed the toggle switch and wire to the front of the TV and taped it behind the gray speaker grill. The toggle switch was small enough to lay flat behind the front grill.
So far the TV has been working great as long as there is no power interruptions. Should I experience a power glitch and the blinking green light reoccurs, my steps to get the TV back up is:
- Turn AC off
- Pull grill off and set toggle swith to off
- Turn AC on and wait 1 minute for green blinking light stop
- Set toggle switch to on and place grill back on the TV
- Turn on TV with remote or from front panel
Hope this helps.
Jim
I have put together a combonation word document of several posts that helped me remove and install my caps and ribbon without the service manual if anyone would like it just email me with "request MITS" in subject line thanks Mike
[email protected]
Jim glad to hear you fixed it. I ran the wire through the front door way but anyway will do.
Mike221
What did you find with the cartoonish picture? Thanks for the links also. My tv been working so so. Just the few times with shut offs on its own. I sits in the basement now. $3500 for a cat to watch tv or when we partys.
I want to put this out there for all. I did find some information that there is a software update 4.06. I tried to call Mitsushitii but they will not send it to me because I fixed my tv and did not send it out( there words). Also she stated( I think, she didn't speak english to good) That its for only certain conditions. My tv is 4.01. That 5 software upgrades!!!!! Nice company. If anyone out there knows how to download it let me know. I know its programmed through the sd card slot. So the information will have to be programmed to a sd card.. I got about 10 of these cards. Anyway let me know
Tony G
The Cartoonish picture was caused by a bad cable ribbon the Fb or Fa the gold colored one. I hope your cat appreciates it lol.
After replacing the caps, I got the TV to boot up. But it does have a quirk. If I plug in the power cold (several minutes without power), it will give continuous blinking green light for ever. I need to unplug it for several seconds and plug it in for a second time, then it will have a successful boot.
Could this simulate the interrupting power to the FMT board as reported by Jim George?
BTY, I am still not getting video. But I suspect it's a bad lamp or ballast. No time to debug this yet. There is no easy way to test if the lamp is good or bad as it works by ionizing mercury vapor. I read some OSRAM doc that basically said that the ballast need to kick start the lamp by zapping it with several thousand volts. After that, the normal operation is only several hunderd volts. This explains the high voltage protection of the lamp wires. It's kind of like the spark plugs of automobile.
Anyone has a used working lamp that can give/sell me for cheap? I don't want to buy a brand new lamp to find a bad ballast and ends up with two good lamps.
My TV is a WD-52725 rather than the 52525 that is frequently discussed on here. But I wonder if anyone can provide any information.
For several weeks I had been noticing that the picture quality on my TV seemed to be deteriorating. The display didn't seem to be as crisp and vivid as it had been in the past. Then one evening a couple of days ago, it just shut down. I checked the lamp and it had gone out. Ordered a new lamp, installed it, and cleaned the filter. Powered up - nothing - endlessly blinking green LED!!
After much investigation, I learned of the burned capacitor problem and last night replaced 4 capacitors that seemed to be slightly bulged on their tops. Installed 1000uf/35v/105 degree components and reassembled the unit. Powered up - same thing as before - endlessly blinking green LED.
Can anyone offer any other suggestions? I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
James ([email protected])
Ok --- replaced all caps and reassembled. No more blinking green light, but now the light engine doesn't fire up. Another interesting symptom -- the rear cabinet fan doesn't come on either. Here's the process...
Plug in power. Power LED flashes green for about 30-45 seconds then goes out. Hit the power switch and the Power LED turns constant green. Normally, this is where you'd hear the light engine fan spin up and hear the ballast kicking in. Nothing. No fan, no ballast kick -- nothing. Only the sound of the fan on top of the chassis.
I've double checked my connections and cables and don't see anything wrong, but clearly I'm missing something.
Any ideas would be appreciated - either here or direct at 'jbernier at sbe.org'
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Jim,
I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse.
Dan
Dan,
How do you detect/test for a bad fuse like you found? Would this be clearly visible or does it require using a meter?
thanks,
.sam
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Yes you need to have a meter to determine if you have bad capacitors. You would set the mode to Ohms and see if it's a open (sometimes labeled OL) or 0 ohms (good).
Reason for caps going bad is suspected to be poor design plan. Probably the caps are under rated hence it degrades faster than normal.
I used a meter. Not sure why these caps failed. I always replace caps with ones of higher voltage. Also never use caps of lower voltage or lower temperature. Most likely all caps will fail as they dry out. It seems to just be a matter of time. The electrolyte formula used can be a factor. High ripple currents in the circuit can be a factor. Since almost all of the 1000uf caps in these sets fail, it seems likely they had a production problem. While this may not be Mitsubishi's direct fault, i think they could be a tad more helpful. LIKE SCHEMATICS...
Sorry for shouting but maybe Mitsubishi is listening.
Thanks for that... I'll take a look tonight and see what I find.
Jim
Dan,
Just a quick sanity check before I tear back into the chassis... is there an interlock besides the filter that would prevent the light engine from turning on? By that, I did not put the rear panel and the rest of the cabinet together when I tested. Just want to make sure I didn't miss something.
Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps
And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
I knew about that one and did just that. I was kind of hoping there was another one that I overlooked before tearing back into the chassis :-(
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