I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
tony gregori said: I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
I'm back in business. Fuses were all ok. Must have been a connector not seated properly.
And for the benefit of others reading this, there are only two interlocks - the chassis fan cover on the left side and the lamp cover on the front.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Mitsubishi has found upwards of 100 capacitors in the 525 series of sets that are failing and need replacement. Unfortunately, for everyone you replace another will go out soon. They have a rebuild process that includes pulling the entire block out and sending to them for rebuild. This can only be done by a Mits authorized service center. Dealer cost = $300. Markup and labor not included. Expect a 30-60 day turn time.
Larry, I hope you are well, I have not seen you post lately. I did some searching and found this board. I have read alot of the posts. Unfortunately, I am not in the TV repair business and have limited knowledge of capacitors ect, FORTUNATELY I, for once, actually purchased the Extended Warranty. I have already sent my WD 52525 out for Service and that was a long wait fo my 52" of companionship. From what I have read, it looks like a one time "power supply" repair may not be enough. I had the blinking green light of death, then the status light was blinking. Unplugged, for 15 min, nothing. Unplugged, pushed system reset, nothing. Unplugged, cleaned the filter, system reset now the green light just blinks without end?? I replaced the lamp a year or so ago. Had the lamp warning a few monhs ago and ordered a replacement again, thank you warranty, but held off replacement until the lamp light went red. Still have it in the box. No lamp lights are on, so I don't want to overkill. Any advice? Jim's idea looked good if I knew more about the circuit boards. Right now I have just unplugged it for a few hours or until I hear from you. Thanks
Frank
BTW, I downloaded the WD 52525 Service Manual from the homepage of Techlore. Hopefully more people will read this and save you some work. You have done so much already.
OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
FrankieBoy said: OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
I would be careful about unplugging and replugging as a remedy for the BGLOD. While this may temporary restore service, you may actually be leading to more damage to the DM or FMT boards.
As you are not comfortable with capacitors, I think you're stuck waiting for the service tech.
DMD is a digital micromirror device - it is the basis for DLP (or as Texas Instruments like to say - "its the mirrors")
Can use some help from someone with experience soldering. I'm in the middle of working on my 52725. Have to say putting on the new caps is easier than getting the old ones off (desoldering). I had no luck with a 15w soldering iron so switched to a 25w. I've replaced 4 caps but continue to have problems desoldering. The iron just doesn't easily melt the solder on the board. Works fine on my new roll and adding caps but when removing caps, the solder just doesn't loosen up. The iron is hot. I feel it on my hand holding the iron.
Suggestions?
A de-soldering wick will make the job easy. Wipe a little soldering paste on the wick and press it with the iron tip to melt solder. The capillary action of the wick will "suck" out the solder. Constant use of the wick also wipes out solder from the iron's tip and makes it oxidize. Add solder to the tip regularly.
I use a lightbulb dimmer from Home Depot to control soldering iron temperature.
This is a question for the advanced repair folks on here for a WD-52525...
1. Replaced critical caps on Power Board. Probed voltage test points - all good. All fuses good.
2. Replaced essential caps on DM and FMT board. had bad caps in various boards.
3. Used USB unplug procedure to check card reader board. Its good.
Power up...
1. Pulled connector from FMT board to get blinking light to go out.
2. Plugged in power. green light goes out after 70 seconds.
3. Plugged FMT power back in.
4. Hit power button on front. Set comes on with normal speaker static.
5. Relays click and I know power going to lamp. Voltage on power board connector (J9 etc) going to light engine board gets correct power
6. I can see dim blue light on screen as lamp starts firing up.
7. After a few seconds it dumps to a steady red status light, no red lamp light. No power light (previously green blinking light). Speakers go out and is expected.
8. Book says a short or DVI cable blah blah blah.
9. Unplugged far right hand top cable (PA) on power board going to light engine (J9) and repeated. Speakers come on and the set does not dump and turn on the red status light.
10. I did find that the J9 (PA) connector power (upper right connector on the power board)does not come up to voltage until the relays kick in (Pins 1 and 2). This does not seem abnormal to me.
- My lamp is about 1 year old (OSRAM), no signs of being blown visually. Looks new
- I checked all cables for cuts etc...all look good.
- All covers on and fans work etc.
- If you "hit the wall" here in your troubleshooting please let me know what else you did to get past this point....or what you found...
- I need to know if I am still facing a power board issue or deeper such as light engine circuit boards, the light engine...ballast board...etc.
- I ususpect there is some component on the FMT board that went south requiring the unplug and plug in procedure to get past the blinking green light.
I've spent all weekend working on my 57525. Replaced 14 caps suspected of causing the blinking green light prob - 4 on the DM, 4 on the FMT, and 6 on the PWR (4 x1000, 2 x 3300).
Finally got everything put back together and crossed my fingers that it would even power on.
TV came on and 20 minutes later, poof!!! Exact same problem I always had. Screen turns blue then goes off, green light blinks for about 45-60 second, powers off.
My set does come back on. The green light stops blinking at which time I can power up. It randomly turns itself back off.
So, replacing the caps did not fix my problem. Anyone have other suggestions before I toss this thing in the lake?
I finally got the WD-52525 fixed today. I was having audio with no video after fixing the capacitors. Turns out it was a loose connction at the light engine. The connector is on the inner side of the lignt engine's circuit board metal case. It's the metal case with the J9, J14 connector. The loose connection is on the inner side, lower-right corner when looking at the rear of the TV.
It must have gotten loose by accident while moving or servicing.
I just got done replacing the capacitors and still receive the blinking light. I read on another forum that the same thing happened to someone who forgot to replace a ground cable. Now I know I replaced the ground cable that sits above the box for the audio jacks. Is there more than one ground cord to be put back and if not does anyone have any suggestions as what to do after replacing all the 1000uF capactitors?
Would it be possible to get a copy of this fix mailed to me as well? I also have the wd-52525 and I have the tv almost completely apart and the dm board exposed. I'd really appreciate it
I have a dead WD-52525 that was given to me to play with.
Sure enough, it has the notorious bas cap problem that everyone is talking about. I replaced two buldging and leaking caps on the power board (3300uf, 10V). The set still wouldn't turn on.
Then I found more bad caps. It was a set of four buldging caps (1000uF, 16V) in one of the signal board. It was the board with the thick D-connector video cable to the light engine, the most time consuming to access because it's the last one on the stack. It also burned a 4A surface mount fuse near the four caps. I replced the fuse as well. Probably the cap shorted when it failed and burned the fuse.
The caps curcuits near that area looks like some sort of power converter/stablizer that supply the board. It has these very visible toroid coil and located close to the 4-pin power supply lines. Similar circuits seems to be used in other boards.
With the caps and fuse replaced, I now can boot up the set. It responds to remote control on/off. I even get audio noise from the speaker (not real sound, just noise). But I still cannot get the light engine to turn on.
I have not yet opened and check the light engine.
BTY, I have the front video screen dismantled. Does that trigger some sort of sensor that prevents the light engine from turning on?
threre are many many bad capacitors in this set, Mitshubishi says about 100 or so get replaced when they rebuild these sets. contact them to see about the rebuilding deal.
Hello all
Larry good to hear from you. I hope you are doing better and had a great holiday.
Its been awhile and just wanted to know if anyone has found anything else with these tvs. Since I did the repair its been working ok. I have to unplug it at times to reset it. This only happens when I dont use the tv for a few days. I dont know whats up that. I have not had to use the switch at all. Just unplug it and let it startup on its own. Again that when it sits for days. This tv is now in the basement so it doesn't get used that much. Anyway just wanted to know
Could these bad caps also effect sound? I have static that I hear (not constant, but worse when the guide is on screen--and it gets louder/quieter with volume changes).
I want to thank the Techlore group on helping me fix my DLP. We ended up having 5 bad caps on the power board and a bad light. Got the new light in today and everything is now working. No more blinking light. Life is good
I am also haveing same problems I took out all 14 caps and replaced them now all I get is the flashing green light any help would be appreciated. If you could send what ever system files you have. also was wondering the biggest ribbon cable has a little kink on the edge could this cause the light to blink also thanks my email is [email protected]
Hello me again I took the wd52525 apart again and with the chasis outand heat cover off the front I can get a blue screen but now I get the "cartoonish picture people have talked about any help would be helpfull my email is [email protected] thanks for anyone who can help
I had to replace my fmt board. To fix the cartoonish problem
Also if you still have the blinking green light try booting up with the fmt fc connector unplugged
Then reconnect it after the light stops. I saw that mitsu has a software upgrade but you have to call to get it. Does anyone have a way to download it?
I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
Could I please get a service manual for the wd-52525. I think I have the
Hi Larry,
Same problem with the green blinking light, could you please send me the service manual and repair instructions to [email protected]
Thanks!
Pablo
I'm back in business. Fuses were all ok. Must have been a connector not seated properly.
And for the benefit of others reading this, there are only two interlocks - the chassis fan cover on the left side and the lamp cover on the front.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Mitsubishi has found upwards of 100 capacitors in the 525 series of sets that are failing and need replacement. Unfortunately, for everyone you replace another will go out soon. They have a rebuild process that includes pulling the entire block out and sending to them for rebuild. This can only be done by a Mits authorized service center. Dealer cost = $300. Markup and labor not included. Expect a 30-60 day turn time.
HI Larry and MOtvguy:
Larry, I hope you are well, I have not seen you post lately. I did some searching and found this board. I have read alot of the posts. Unfortunately, I am not in the TV repair business and have limited knowledge of capacitors ect, FORTUNATELY I, for once, actually purchased the Extended Warranty. I have already sent my WD 52525 out for Service and that was a long wait fo my 52" of companionship. From what I have read, it looks like a one time "power supply" repair may not be enough. I had the blinking green light of death, then the status light was blinking. Unplugged, for 15 min, nothing. Unplugged, pushed system reset, nothing. Unplugged, cleaned the filter, system reset now the green light just blinks without end?? I replaced the lamp a year or so ago. Had the lamp warning a few monhs ago and ordered a replacement again, thank you warranty, but held off replacement until the lamp light went red. Still have it in the box. No lamp lights are on, so I don't want to overkill. Any advice? Jim's idea looked good if I knew more about the circuit boards. Right now I have just unplugged it for a few hours or until I hear from you. Thanks
Frank
BTW, I downloaded the WD 52525 Service Manual from the homepage of Techlore. Hopefully more people will read this and save you some work. You have done so much already.
i have same problem but the light goes red after awhile
OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
I would be careful about unplugging and replugging as a remedy for the BGLOD. While this may temporary restore service, you may actually be leading to more damage to the DM or FMT boards.
As you are not comfortable with capacitors, I think you're stuck waiting for the service tech.
DMD is a digital micromirror device - it is the basis for DLP (or as Texas Instruments like to say - "its the mirrors")
Ok never mind. I'm just going to buy a new set. Thanks anyway.
Can use some help from someone with experience soldering. I'm in the middle of working on my 52725. Have to say putting on the new caps is easier than getting the old ones off (desoldering). I had no luck with a 15w soldering iron so switched to a 25w. I've replaced 4 caps but continue to have problems desoldering. The iron just doesn't easily melt the solder on the board. Works fine on my new roll and adding caps but when removing caps, the solder just doesn't loosen up. The iron is hot. I feel it on my hand holding the iron.
Suggestions?
Thanks, sam.
Sam,
A de-soldering wick will make the job easy. Wipe a little soldering paste on the wick and press it with the iron tip to melt solder. The capillary action of the wick will "suck" out the solder. Constant use of the wick also wipes out solder from the iron's tip and makes it oxidize. Add solder to the tip regularly.
I use a lightbulb dimmer from Home Depot to control soldering iron temperature.
This is a question for the advanced repair folks on here for a WD-52525...
1. Replaced critical caps on Power Board. Probed voltage test points - all good. All fuses good.
2. Replaced essential caps on DM and FMT board. had bad caps in various boards.
3. Used USB unplug procedure to check card reader board. Its good.
Power up...
1. Pulled connector from FMT board to get blinking light to go out.
2. Plugged in power. green light goes out after 70 seconds.
3. Plugged FMT power back in.
4. Hit power button on front. Set comes on with normal speaker static.
5. Relays click and I know power going to lamp. Voltage on power board connector (J9 etc) going to light engine board gets correct power
6. I can see dim blue light on screen as lamp starts firing up.
7. After a few seconds it dumps to a steady red status light, no red lamp light. No power light (previously green blinking light). Speakers go out and is expected.
8. Book says a short or DVI cable blah blah blah.
9. Unplugged far right hand top cable (PA) on power board going to light engine (J9) and repeated. Speakers come on and the set does not dump and turn on the red status light.
10. I did find that the J9 (PA) connector power (upper right connector on the power board)does not come up to voltage until the relays kick in (Pins 1 and 2). This does not seem abnormal to me.
- My lamp is about 1 year old (OSRAM), no signs of being blown visually. Looks new
- I checked all cables for cuts etc...all look good.
- All covers on and fans work etc.
- If you "hit the wall" here in your troubleshooting please let me know what else you did to get past this point....or what you found...
- I need to know if I am still facing a power board issue or deeper such as light engine circuit boards, the light engine...ballast board...etc.
- I ususpect there is some component on the FMT board that went south requiring the unplug and plug in procedure to get past the blinking green light.
Thanks much!
Bladerunner in Navarre Florida
I've spent all weekend working on my 57525. Replaced 14 caps suspected of causing the blinking green light prob - 4 on the DM, 4 on the FMT, and 6 on the PWR (4 x1000, 2 x 3300).
Finally got everything put back together and crossed my fingers that it would even power on.
TV came on and 20 minutes later, poof!!! Exact same problem I always had. Screen turns blue then goes off, green light blinks for about 45-60 second, powers off.
My set does come back on. The green light stops blinking at which time I can power up. It randomly turns itself back off.
So, replacing the caps did not fix my problem. Anyone have other suggestions before I toss this thing in the lake?
Thanks,
.sam
Hi Larry,
I have the green blinking light problem on my wd-52525. Would you please send the instructions for cap replacement. Thank you.
My E-Mail is [email protected]
I finally got the WD-52525 fixed today. I was having audio with no video after fixing the capacitors. Turns out it was a loose connction at the light engine. The connector is on the inner side of the lignt engine's circuit board metal case. It's the metal case with the J9, J14 connector. The loose connection is on the inner side, lower-right corner when looking at the rear of the TV.
It must have gotten loose by accident while moving or servicing.
I just got done replacing the capacitors and still receive the blinking light. I read on another forum that the same thing happened to someone who forgot to replace a ground cable. Now I know I replaced the ground cable that sits above the box for the audio jacks. Is there more than one ground cord to be put back and if not does anyone have any suggestions as what to do after replacing all the 1000uF capactitors?
Hi Larry,
I have the green blinking light problem on my wd-52525. Would you please send the instructions for cap replacement. Thank you.
My E-Mail is [email protected]
Instead of send out all these instructions. Some might find the following web site helpful for the WD-52525 http://www.freewebs.com/januismer/televisionrepair.htm
Would it be possible to get a copy of this fix mailed to me as well? I also have the wd-52525 and I have the tv almost completely apart and the dm board exposed. I'd really appreciate it
I have a dead WD-52525 that was given to me to play with.
Sure enough, it has the notorious bas cap problem that everyone is talking about. I replaced two buldging and leaking caps on the power board (3300uf, 10V). The set still wouldn't turn on.
Then I found more bad caps. It was a set of four buldging caps (1000uF, 16V) in one of the signal board. It was the board with the thick D-connector video cable to the light engine, the most time consuming to access because it's the last one on the stack. It also burned a 4A surface mount fuse near the four caps. I replced the fuse as well. Probably the cap shorted when it failed and burned the fuse.
The caps curcuits near that area looks like some sort of power converter/stablizer that supply the board. It has these very visible toroid coil and located close to the 4-pin power supply lines. Similar circuits seems to be used in other boards.
With the caps and fuse replaced, I now can boot up the set. It responds to remote control on/off. I even get audio noise from the speaker (not real sound, just noise). But I still cannot get the light engine to turn on.
I have not yet opened and check the light engine.
BTY, I have the front video screen dismantled. Does that trigger some sort of sensor that prevents the light engine from turning on?
threre are many many bad capacitors in this set, Mitshubishi says about 100 or so get replaced when they rebuild these sets. contact them to see about the rebuilding deal.
100? Wow.. that's a lot! I only changed out 10.
Hello all
Larry good to hear from you. I hope you are doing better and had a great holiday.
Its been awhile and just wanted to know if anyone has found anything else with these tvs. Since I did the repair its been working ok. I have to unplug it at times to reset it. This only happens when I dont use the tv for a few days. I dont know whats up that. I have not had to use the switch at all. Just unplug it and let it startup on its own. Again that when it sits for days. This tv is now in the basement so it doesn't get used that much. Anyway just wanted to know
Could these bad caps also effect sound? I have static that I hear (not constant, but worse when the guide is on screen--and it gets louder/quieter with volume changes).
THANKS!
Can someone please send me a service manual? It would be greatly appreciated! [email protected]
Thanks!
I want to thank the Techlore group on helping me fix my DLP. We ended up having 5 bad caps on the power board and a bad light. Got the new light in today and everything is now working. No more blinking light. Life is good
I am also haveing same problems I took out all 14 caps and replaced them now all I get is the flashing green light any help would be appreciated. If you could send what ever system files you have. also was wondering the biggest ribbon cable has a little kink on the edge could this cause the light to blink also thanks my email is [email protected]
Hello me again I took the wd52525 apart again and with the chasis outand heat cover off the front I can get a blue screen but now I get the "cartoonish picture people have talked about any help would be helpfull my email is [email protected] thanks for anyone who can help
I had to replace my fmt board. To fix the cartoonish problem
Also if you still have the blinking green light try booting up with the fmt fc connector unplugged
Then reconnect it after the light stops. I saw that mitsu has a software upgrade but you have to call to get it. Does anyone have a way to download it?
Pages