My TV is a WD-52725 rather than the 52525 that is frequently discussed on here. But I wonder if anyone can provide any information.
For several weeks I had been noticing that the picture quality on my TV seemed to be deteriorating. The display didn't seem to be as crisp and vivid as it had been in the past. Then one evening a couple of days ago, it just shut down. I checked the lamp and it had gone out. Ordered a new lamp, installed it, and cleaned the filter. Powered up - nothing - endlessly blinking green LED!!
After much investigation, I learned of the burned capacitor problem and last night replaced 4 capacitors that seemed to be slightly bulged on their tops. Installed 1000uf/35v/105 degree components and reassembled the unit. Powered up - same thing as before - endlessly blinking green LED.
Can anyone offer any other suggestions? I'm at a loss.
Ok --- replaced all caps and reassembled. No more blinking green light, but now the light engine doesn't fire up. Another interesting symptom -- the rear cabinet fan doesn't come on either. Here's the process...
Plug in power. Power LED flashes green for about 30-45 seconds then goes out. Hit the power switch and the Power LED turns constant green. Normally, this is where you'd hear the light engine fan spin up and hear the ballast kicking in. Nothing. No fan, no ballast kick -- nothing. Only the sound of the fan on top of the chassis.
I've double checked my connections and cables and don't see anything wrong, but clearly I'm missing something.
Any ideas would be appreciated - either here or direct at 'jbernier at sbe.org'
Jim,
I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
Yes you need to have a meter to determine if you have bad capacitors. You would set the mode to Ohms and see if it's a open (sometimes labeled OL) or 0 ohms (good).
Reason for caps going bad is suspected to be poor design plan. Probably the caps are under rated hence it degrades faster than normal.
I used a meter. Not sure why these caps failed. I always replace caps with ones of higher voltage. Also never use caps of lower voltage or lower temperature. Most likely all caps will fail as they dry out. It seems to just be a matter of time. The electrolyte formula used can be a factor. High ripple currents in the circuit can be a factor. Since almost all of the 1000uf caps in these sets fail, it seems likely they had a production problem. While this may not be Mitsubishi's direct fault, i think they could be a tad more helpful. LIKE SCHEMATICS...
Sorry for shouting but maybe Mitsubishi is listening.
Dalbert said: Jim, I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse. Dan
Thanks for that... I'll take a look tonight and see what I find.
Dalbert said: Jim, I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse. Dan
Dan,
Just a quick sanity check before I tear back into the chassis... is there an interlock besides the filter that would prevent the light engine from turning on? By that, I did not put the rear panel and the rest of the cabinet together when I tested. Just want to make sure I didn't miss something.
Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps
And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
tony gregori said: Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
I knew about that one and did just that. I was kind of hoping there was another one that I overlooked before tearing back into the chassis :-(
I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
tony gregori said: I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
I'm back in business. Fuses were all ok. Must have been a connector not seated properly.
And for the benefit of others reading this, there are only two interlocks - the chassis fan cover on the left side and the lamp cover on the front.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Mitsubishi has found upwards of 100 capacitors in the 525 series of sets that are failing and need replacement. Unfortunately, for everyone you replace another will go out soon. They have a rebuild process that includes pulling the entire block out and sending to them for rebuild. This can only be done by a Mits authorized service center. Dealer cost = $300. Markup and labor not included. Expect a 30-60 day turn time.
Larry, I hope you are well, I have not seen you post lately. I did some searching and found this board. I have read alot of the posts. Unfortunately, I am not in the TV repair business and have limited knowledge of capacitors ect, FORTUNATELY I, for once, actually purchased the Extended Warranty. I have already sent my WD 52525 out for Service and that was a long wait fo my 52" of companionship. From what I have read, it looks like a one time "power supply" repair may not be enough. I had the blinking green light of death, then the status light was blinking. Unplugged, for 15 min, nothing. Unplugged, pushed system reset, nothing. Unplugged, cleaned the filter, system reset now the green light just blinks without end?? I replaced the lamp a year or so ago. Had the lamp warning a few monhs ago and ordered a replacement again, thank you warranty, but held off replacement until the lamp light went red. Still have it in the box. No lamp lights are on, so I don't want to overkill. Any advice? Jim's idea looked good if I knew more about the circuit boards. Right now I have just unplugged it for a few hours or until I hear from you. Thanks
Frank
BTW, I downloaded the WD 52525 Service Manual from the homepage of Techlore. Hopefully more people will read this and save you some work. You have done so much already.
OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
FrankieBoy said: OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
I would be careful about unplugging and replugging as a remedy for the BGLOD. While this may temporary restore service, you may actually be leading to more damage to the DM or FMT boards.
As you are not comfortable with capacitors, I think you're stuck waiting for the service tech.
DMD is a digital micromirror device - it is the basis for DLP (or as Texas Instruments like to say - "its the mirrors")
Can use some help from someone with experience soldering. I'm in the middle of working on my 52725. Have to say putting on the new caps is easier than getting the old ones off (desoldering). I had no luck with a 15w soldering iron so switched to a 25w. I've replaced 4 caps but continue to have problems desoldering. The iron just doesn't easily melt the solder on the board. Works fine on my new roll and adding caps but when removing caps, the solder just doesn't loosen up. The iron is hot. I feel it on my hand holding the iron.
Suggestions?
A de-soldering wick will make the job easy. Wipe a little soldering paste on the wick and press it with the iron tip to melt solder. The capillary action of the wick will "suck" out the solder. Constant use of the wick also wipes out solder from the iron's tip and makes it oxidize. Add solder to the tip regularly.
I use a lightbulb dimmer from Home Depot to control soldering iron temperature.
This is a question for the advanced repair folks on here for a WD-52525...
1. Replaced critical caps on Power Board. Probed voltage test points - all good. All fuses good.
2. Replaced essential caps on DM and FMT board. had bad caps in various boards.
3. Used USB unplug procedure to check card reader board. Its good.
Power up...
1. Pulled connector from FMT board to get blinking light to go out.
2. Plugged in power. green light goes out after 70 seconds.
3. Plugged FMT power back in.
4. Hit power button on front. Set comes on with normal speaker static.
5. Relays click and I know power going to lamp. Voltage on power board connector (J9 etc) going to light engine board gets correct power
6. I can see dim blue light on screen as lamp starts firing up.
7. After a few seconds it dumps to a steady red status light, no red lamp light. No power light (previously green blinking light). Speakers go out and is expected.
8. Book says a short or DVI cable blah blah blah.
9. Unplugged far right hand top cable (PA) on power board going to light engine (J9) and repeated. Speakers come on and the set does not dump and turn on the red status light.
10. I did find that the J9 (PA) connector power (upper right connector on the power board)does not come up to voltage until the relays kick in (Pins 1 and 2). This does not seem abnormal to me.
- My lamp is about 1 year old (OSRAM), no signs of being blown visually. Looks new
- I checked all cables for cuts etc...all look good.
- All covers on and fans work etc.
- If you "hit the wall" here in your troubleshooting please let me know what else you did to get past this point....or what you found...
- I need to know if I am still facing a power board issue or deeper such as light engine circuit boards, the light engine...ballast board...etc.
- I ususpect there is some component on the FMT board that went south requiring the unplug and plug in procedure to get past the blinking green light.
I've spent all weekend working on my 57525. Replaced 14 caps suspected of causing the blinking green light prob - 4 on the DM, 4 on the FMT, and 6 on the PWR (4 x1000, 2 x 3300).
Finally got everything put back together and crossed my fingers that it would even power on.
TV came on and 20 minutes later, poof!!! Exact same problem I always had. Screen turns blue then goes off, green light blinks for about 45-60 second, powers off.
My set does come back on. The green light stops blinking at which time I can power up. It randomly turns itself back off.
So, replacing the caps did not fix my problem. Anyone have other suggestions before I toss this thing in the lake?
I finally got the WD-52525 fixed today. I was having audio with no video after fixing the capacitors. Turns out it was a loose connction at the light engine. The connector is on the inner side of the lignt engine's circuit board metal case. It's the metal case with the J9, J14 connector. The loose connection is on the inner side, lower-right corner when looking at the rear of the TV.
It must have gotten loose by accident while moving or servicing.
I just got done replacing the capacitors and still receive the blinking light. I read on another forum that the same thing happened to someone who forgot to replace a ground cable. Now I know I replaced the ground cable that sits above the box for the audio jacks. Is there more than one ground cord to be put back and if not does anyone have any suggestions as what to do after replacing all the 1000uF capactitors?
My TV is a WD-52725 rather than the 52525 that is frequently discussed on here. But I wonder if anyone can provide any information.
For several weeks I had been noticing that the picture quality on my TV seemed to be deteriorating. The display didn't seem to be as crisp and vivid as it had been in the past. Then one evening a couple of days ago, it just shut down. I checked the lamp and it had gone out. Ordered a new lamp, installed it, and cleaned the filter. Powered up - nothing - endlessly blinking green LED!!
After much investigation, I learned of the burned capacitor problem and last night replaced 4 capacitors that seemed to be slightly bulged on their tops. Installed 1000uf/35v/105 degree components and reassembled the unit. Powered up - same thing as before - endlessly blinking green LED.
Can anyone offer any other suggestions? I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
James ([email protected])
Ok --- replaced all caps and reassembled. No more blinking green light, but now the light engine doesn't fire up. Another interesting symptom -- the rear cabinet fan doesn't come on either. Here's the process...
Plug in power. Power LED flashes green for about 30-45 seconds then goes out. Hit the power switch and the Power LED turns constant green. Normally, this is where you'd hear the light engine fan spin up and hear the ballast kicking in. Nothing. No fan, no ballast kick -- nothing. Only the sound of the fan on top of the chassis.
I've double checked my connections and cables and don't see anything wrong, but clearly I'm missing something.
Any ideas would be appreciated - either here or direct at 'jbernier at sbe.org'
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Jim,
I had this problem after i fixed a WD52525. I found a bad 4 amp fuse, if I remember correctly it was F8a04 on the FMT board...but it was a week ago and the set has been reassembled. It was an SMT fuse. I didn't have a replacement so i broke the glass on a 4a fuse I had and soldered a 1/4 inch of the fuse wire on top of the fuse.
Dan
Dan,
How do you detect/test for a bad fuse like you found? Would this be clearly visible or does it require using a meter?
thanks,
.sam
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Yes you need to have a meter to determine if you have bad capacitors. You would set the mode to Ohms and see if it's a open (sometimes labeled OL) or 0 ohms (good).
Reason for caps going bad is suspected to be poor design plan. Probably the caps are under rated hence it degrades faster than normal.
I used a meter. Not sure why these caps failed. I always replace caps with ones of higher voltage. Also never use caps of lower voltage or lower temperature. Most likely all caps will fail as they dry out. It seems to just be a matter of time. The electrolyte formula used can be a factor. High ripple currents in the circuit can be a factor. Since almost all of the 1000uf caps in these sets fail, it seems likely they had a production problem. While this may not be Mitsubishi's direct fault, i think they could be a tad more helpful. LIKE SCHEMATICS...
Sorry for shouting but maybe Mitsubishi is listening.
Thanks for that... I'll take a look tonight and see what I find.
Jim
Dan,
Just a quick sanity check before I tear back into the chassis... is there an interlock besides the filter that would prevent the light engine from turning on? By that, I did not put the rear panel and the rest of the cabinet together when I tested. Just want to make sure I didn't miss something.
Yes there is a switch on the filter that would prevent it from powering up. I forgot to reattach the door the first time I powered it up. You can leave the back cover off just screw the filter door back in. Hope this helps
And yes the cat loves the tv. I added the WII system to it. Perfect combo with the kids. Just an matter of time
I knew about that one and did just that. I was kind of hoping there was another one that I overlooked before tearing back into the chassis :-(
I think the panel for the light bulb will make the red light come on. I guess you have to choice then to pull it and check the fuses. When you have your chassis out there is a paice of paper with all the fuse locations on all the boards. Check them all with an ohm meter. Good luck
Could I please get a service manual for the wd-52525. I think I have the
Hi Larry,
Same problem with the green blinking light, could you please send me the service manual and repair instructions to [email protected]
Thanks!
Pablo
I'm back in business. Fuses were all ok. Must have been a connector not seated properly.
And for the benefit of others reading this, there are only two interlocks - the chassis fan cover on the left side and the lamp cover on the front.
Maybe this is in an earlier post but I'll ask anyway.
What is causing these caps to go bad? What prevents newly installed caps from doing the same thing?
.sam
Mitsubishi has found upwards of 100 capacitors in the 525 series of sets that are failing and need replacement. Unfortunately, for everyone you replace another will go out soon. They have a rebuild process that includes pulling the entire block out and sending to them for rebuild. This can only be done by a Mits authorized service center. Dealer cost = $300. Markup and labor not included. Expect a 30-60 day turn time.
HI Larry and MOtvguy:
Larry, I hope you are well, I have not seen you post lately. I did some searching and found this board. I have read alot of the posts. Unfortunately, I am not in the TV repair business and have limited knowledge of capacitors ect, FORTUNATELY I, for once, actually purchased the Extended Warranty. I have already sent my WD 52525 out for Service and that was a long wait fo my 52" of companionship. From what I have read, it looks like a one time "power supply" repair may not be enough. I had the blinking green light of death, then the status light was blinking. Unplugged, for 15 min, nothing. Unplugged, pushed system reset, nothing. Unplugged, cleaned the filter, system reset now the green light just blinks without end?? I replaced the lamp a year or so ago. Had the lamp warning a few monhs ago and ordered a replacement again, thank you warranty, but held off replacement until the lamp light went red. Still have it in the box. No lamp lights are on, so I don't want to overkill. Any advice? Jim's idea looked good if I knew more about the circuit boards. Right now I have just unplugged it for a few hours or until I hear from you. Thanks
Frank
BTW, I downloaded the WD 52525 Service Manual from the homepage of Techlore. Hopefully more people will read this and save you some work. You have done so much already.
i have same problem but the light goes red after awhile
OK, I am back. And seriously I hope that Larry is OK. No recent posts and I read a previous post telling Larry to feel better. I have unplugged and replugged and now I have moved past the neverending green timer light blinking to the red/orange blinking of the status light. 1 long and 3 short which according to the Service Manual is DMD or Lamp fan Stopped. Not sure what DMD is? And one of the fans is still going but I think that is the other cooler fan. Have to wait "2 business days" to hear from a Service Tech, is there anything I can do instead of just being a victim? :) 24 is on tonight :(
I would be careful about unplugging and replugging as a remedy for the BGLOD. While this may temporary restore service, you may actually be leading to more damage to the DM or FMT boards.
As you are not comfortable with capacitors, I think you're stuck waiting for the service tech.
DMD is a digital micromirror device - it is the basis for DLP (or as Texas Instruments like to say - "its the mirrors")
Ok never mind. I'm just going to buy a new set. Thanks anyway.
Can use some help from someone with experience soldering. I'm in the middle of working on my 52725. Have to say putting on the new caps is easier than getting the old ones off (desoldering). I had no luck with a 15w soldering iron so switched to a 25w. I've replaced 4 caps but continue to have problems desoldering. The iron just doesn't easily melt the solder on the board. Works fine on my new roll and adding caps but when removing caps, the solder just doesn't loosen up. The iron is hot. I feel it on my hand holding the iron.
Suggestions?
Thanks, sam.
Sam,
A de-soldering wick will make the job easy. Wipe a little soldering paste on the wick and press it with the iron tip to melt solder. The capillary action of the wick will "suck" out the solder. Constant use of the wick also wipes out solder from the iron's tip and makes it oxidize. Add solder to the tip regularly.
I use a lightbulb dimmer from Home Depot to control soldering iron temperature.
This is a question for the advanced repair folks on here for a WD-52525...
1. Replaced critical caps on Power Board. Probed voltage test points - all good. All fuses good.
2. Replaced essential caps on DM and FMT board. had bad caps in various boards.
3. Used USB unplug procedure to check card reader board. Its good.
Power up...
1. Pulled connector from FMT board to get blinking light to go out.
2. Plugged in power. green light goes out after 70 seconds.
3. Plugged FMT power back in.
4. Hit power button on front. Set comes on with normal speaker static.
5. Relays click and I know power going to lamp. Voltage on power board connector (J9 etc) going to light engine board gets correct power
6. I can see dim blue light on screen as lamp starts firing up.
7. After a few seconds it dumps to a steady red status light, no red lamp light. No power light (previously green blinking light). Speakers go out and is expected.
8. Book says a short or DVI cable blah blah blah.
9. Unplugged far right hand top cable (PA) on power board going to light engine (J9) and repeated. Speakers come on and the set does not dump and turn on the red status light.
10. I did find that the J9 (PA) connector power (upper right connector on the power board)does not come up to voltage until the relays kick in (Pins 1 and 2). This does not seem abnormal to me.
- My lamp is about 1 year old (OSRAM), no signs of being blown visually. Looks new
- I checked all cables for cuts etc...all look good.
- All covers on and fans work etc.
- If you "hit the wall" here in your troubleshooting please let me know what else you did to get past this point....or what you found...
- I need to know if I am still facing a power board issue or deeper such as light engine circuit boards, the light engine...ballast board...etc.
- I ususpect there is some component on the FMT board that went south requiring the unplug and plug in procedure to get past the blinking green light.
Thanks much!
Bladerunner in Navarre Florida
I've spent all weekend working on my 57525. Replaced 14 caps suspected of causing the blinking green light prob - 4 on the DM, 4 on the FMT, and 6 on the PWR (4 x1000, 2 x 3300).
Finally got everything put back together and crossed my fingers that it would even power on.
TV came on and 20 minutes later, poof!!! Exact same problem I always had. Screen turns blue then goes off, green light blinks for about 45-60 second, powers off.
My set does come back on. The green light stops blinking at which time I can power up. It randomly turns itself back off.
So, replacing the caps did not fix my problem. Anyone have other suggestions before I toss this thing in the lake?
Thanks,
.sam
Hi Larry,
I have the green blinking light problem on my wd-52525. Would you please send the instructions for cap replacement. Thank you.
My E-Mail is [email protected]
I finally got the WD-52525 fixed today. I was having audio with no video after fixing the capacitors. Turns out it was a loose connction at the light engine. The connector is on the inner side of the lignt engine's circuit board metal case. It's the metal case with the J9, J14 connector. The loose connection is on the inner side, lower-right corner when looking at the rear of the TV.
It must have gotten loose by accident while moving or servicing.
I just got done replacing the capacitors and still receive the blinking light. I read on another forum that the same thing happened to someone who forgot to replace a ground cable. Now I know I replaced the ground cable that sits above the box for the audio jacks. Is there more than one ground cord to be put back and if not does anyone have any suggestions as what to do after replacing all the 1000uF capactitors?
Hi Larry,
I have the green blinking light problem on my wd-52525. Would you please send the instructions for cap replacement. Thank you.
My E-Mail is [email protected]
Instead of send out all these instructions. Some might find the following web site helpful for the WD-52525 http://www.freewebs.com/januismer/televisionrepair.htm
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