Great news to all. I was pulling out my chassis when I noticed the gray wire from the J9 Connector off the Light engine to the power board was cut by the metal chassis. The new chassis I got had the same wire that was shorting to the chassis. I dont know but my tv is now working fine. I put in the wd52825 chassis with a hard drive and plugged it in my WD52525 set. After afew seconds the light stopped flashing and I had a perfect picture. I still have to do some more testing to be sure but wanted to get the info about the wire out there. Also the usb at the top of the DM board is for the front card reader. Knowing alot about computer I dont think that is a good way to test the DM board.As for the fire wire that is just for the front firewire connector and the hard drive. I want to unplug it again and let the tv run for ahile to have sure that fixxes everything but its looking good. Also the new chassis has all new caps...nice and green. I will keep posting please do the same
I have chaneged Capacitors on Power board and DM board in my WD-52525. The "Green Light of Death" is still blinking. How can I get my TV fixed if I don't have warranty?
Congratulations Tony. I looked at my wires and I think I can see exactly where you're talking about. The wire bundle runs through a gap in the chassis behind the supply past the other cards. There are a bunch of sharp edges there and the wires tight. I could see some of my wires scraped but not cut.
I checked the 6vs and 12vs lines on the connector to my FMT board, the one I have to disconnect to get the green blinking light to stop. Voltages were OK. One of the ribbon cables on the bottom that goes to the DM board has a bunch of power supply control signals on is so I disconnected that which also stops the GBL. The start up sequence and interlocks is quite complicated...
I've now pulled the FMT board and checked caps and fuses (again) without finding anything. A friend of mine used to work at a repair shop and is checking with some old friends there for me, but I could be down to ordering a new FMT board. I'd like to know if the FMT board is bad or not but there's no good way to check.
I've read a BUNCH of threads on this problem. I see the patterns - 1) change the caps and it fixes it, 2) changing caps doesn't fix it and a repair of some sort is initiated, or 3) a bunch of effort goes into tracing signals around and reverse engineering a few small areas of the block diagram. I have yet to see #3 result in a positive outcome. It always seems to lead to the need to shot gunning yet another part beyond the caps. Since this requires buying parts, it almost always ends in buying a whole new board or chassis. I can't really spend the time myself to reverse engineer it so...
My backup plan is to butch a switch like Kerry and Ryo if I can't gain certainty about the FMT board or figure things out further. If either Kerry or Ryo you figure out what's going on please post it.
I definitely will post if I figure it out.. assuming it's the same problem. Looks like people have different problems, or it's so touchy that it looks like one thing failed but it's catalyst is really caused by something else. Being a crazy month, working and working on my side business. I haven't gotten a chance to rip everything out again. :(
I definitely am learning more about this TV than I expected from you guys.
Well the problems contiune. The tv worked great for a day. I pluged in the Hdmi and started having problems with the bottons up front then the green light of death. I unplugged the fmt and replugged it in after bootup and the tv worked but the bottons stopped working after awhile. The bottons and the Hdmi do into the back power controller. I thing that is also controlling bootup. Im going to swap it out tonight,but that means that I will have to reinstall my switch.
This is what I tkink is happening.The back board on power up controls everything. It power up the main power board and controls what gets power acting like a switch. All your inputs go into that board(all the blue wires) and controls the fan and the light enigine. I think the ribbons(white) tell the DM board to what to do and again the ribbons tell the Fmt board what to do. I think the bootup problem in the fmt board is locking things up. When we unplug it it powers up fine. I dont think anyone is going to find a solution for this. Its in the software. Just like printers have a chip in the ink cartages to read low or out sooner I think that the board are designed the same way. My brother worked for a printer manufactor and told me some good stories. Anyway I think that we fell into away to get around the software problem. Add a switch. You noticed that after you get it to boot up its fine until you reset or unplug it. Why. Also it does fully power down after you hit the power botton..again why. I will contune to play with my tv but just wanted to get some thoughts out
Hi all,
My blinking light started when I replaced the bulb. Found the directions on the caps for the older model. Tried disassembly, who knows if I broke anything.
I've downloaded the manual, and will get the caps out and in this weekend.
Thanks for all your experiences. I'll Keep you posted.
David
.... Also it does fully power down after you hit the power botton..again why. I will contune to play with my tv but just wanted to get some thoughts out
What do you mean it does a full power down after hitting the button? Are you talking about a power down to where you need the reflip the switch?
It's funning how my TV never had a problem for 3 years.. wonder why it starts now. If it was a software problem I would have thought you would have seen it sooner. Maybe the timing is too aggressive possibly, but there's definitely a design flaw in the hardware IMHO.
Sorry to hear you didn't fix your problem. You fell into the same trap as I did.. thought I fixed it finding that pulling the card reader fixed my problem, only to find out a week later it had a blinking light.
Ryo
When you hit the power botton the unit shut shut off almost everything. Some power is still there to memory alive and some other things alive otherwise you would have to relearn all your setting everytime you turned on the set. When you plug it it does a boot check. If it pass the the green light stops blinking. All of our sets are not completing the boot cycle. So the unit just blinks the light. We changed that by unplugging the fmt. Since that boot cycle only does that when you first plug the set to the wall or hit the reset botton the tv will contiune to work. I noticed that ( and I need to make sure) but the relay doesnot power off when you hit the power botton on the tv. That why I said its not completely powering down. Also for the software...We know that unplugging the fmt board stops the light and will be ok after that(unit the reset is hit or loss of power) so we dont know when the tv stopped working correctly. It could have been weeks before. All we did is hit the power botton and watch tv. Some people noticed it when they lost power in a power outage, other when they moved their tv and unplugged it. So when did the problem actully start???? I can see that the caps were under powered but I was read about tv built in 1996 that had the same problem...bad caps. So we know Mitsu has no problems putting in known bad parts that will fail in a few years. Would you think that they would build a better product for $4k or do you think they wanted you to upgrade down the road. It cost $600 to a $1000 to buy a 42 in lcd that has a great picture and takes up less room. It cost $200 for a repaired fmt board or $350 for a chassis..Because Misu doenot make them anymore. The best part is that they made this tv (one form or another) to late 2007. But you cant get new parts?????? I think the software is bad because the way that its acting. Turning on the bulb light for some and the blinking light for others or lines through the screen. Nice thing about software is that it can start doing thing when ever it wants after the warranty is gone....I see it cars everyday. If it is a software problem we are all going to have to but the switch in....
Any way I will try the one board that has the Hdmi later tonight to see if that helps and hope Im wrong about thwe software issue
ps please forgive me for going on and the misspelled words....
Tony G
Hi Larry:
Can you please send me the repair mnual too. I have a solid red light.
My e-mail (no need to pull out the crystal ball) is [email protected]
Thanks much, bro.
Hello Larry I to have a WD52525 and the red light came on. I have unplugged it for a few minutes plugged back on the set turn on no picture but had sound. After a few minutes the set turned off could not turn it back on until I unplugged. Any help would be greatly appreciated my email is [email protected]
Hello all, I hope someone here can help me. I have a mit wd52525 and am getting the blinking green light of death. It seems to happen when I have an antenna and/or the hdmi plugged in. Ran fine all day with the ps3 connected via componant cables. Got an hdmi, connected it and after a bit it shut down and we got the blinking light. unplugging it and hitting the reset will allow us to turn it back on and use it again. havent tried again with just the componant cables. Last night I replaced the caps on the DM board and 2 on the board set that the componant cables go into... turned on and work'd great it seem'd. Scanned for channels with an antenna (would cut out without finishing before). So I hooked up the ps3 with hdmi again and it seemed to work for about 5 minutes, changed to antenna and scanned again. Began watching tv and within about 30 minutes it went out again with the blinking light. I'm ready to shoot the damn thing. Would anyone have any advice? none of the other caps looked bad so I didnt replace any others. Should I replace some on the power board? or how bout the board with the tuners on it? If so, which ones?
Thanks all,
I can be email'd at: wolfnfox(at)cox.net
update: it seems the tv works with the antenna on analog broadcasts and some digital. goes out still when digital broadcast is messed up. video stops, but sound continues until the set just turns off and the light starts blinking.
Started by the picture getting slightly horizontally wavy and then it went to the usual no signal blue screen. The blue screen was happening for all active inputs (PS3 (HDMI); DVD (Comp); DTV HD (Comp)).
Reset; powered up; lamp came on, no signal; screen severely flickering; odd size and off color; TV menu would pull up, but very hard to see. Change source, powers down to RED lamp LED. Error code is coming up as 34 Lamp Abnormality. After several different attempts now only powers up to RED lamp LED.
I'm more then willing to work through changing up the caps, I just wanted more confidence this will be my fix. Any additional details that can be provided is appreciated.
UPDATE: Dec 16, 2009
Replaced two 1300 mf and one 1000 mf capacitor on the power board. The others on all of the boards looked fine. TV is back to working fine.
Never did hear back from Larry, maybe fell off the grid.
A TV repair guy came to my house and two of the capacitors were bulged on the power supply board. He replaced them. The green blinking light still is steady. He said it must be the light engine is bad. I have not read anything in your post regarding a light engine. What do you think of this?
A TV repair guy came to my house and two of the capacitors were bulged on the power supply board. He replaced them. The green blinking light still is steady. He said it must be the light engine is bad. I have not read anything in your post regarding a light engine. What do you think of this?
OK finally got the thing apart.
Dozens of caps staring me the face. Quite a few different sizes. How do you tell which are bad? Just the "popped" X on top?
Is there a test? Some of them seem marginal, but I don't want to change out good ones.
Are 35 volt 1000 microamps OK to replace the 25 volt ones?
Please give me the benefit of your experience.
Regards
David
dmd said:
OK finally got the thing apart.
Dozens of caps staring me the face. Quite a few different sizes. How do you tell which are bad? Just the "popped" X on top?
Is there a test? Some of them seem marginal, but I don't want to change out good ones.
Are 35 volt 1000 microamps OK to replace the 25 volt ones?
Please give me the benefit of your experience.
Regards
David
If the capacitors are off the board, you can use a multimeter that has a capacitor measurement setting to see the farad values.
As for which one to replace, I would replace all the ones listed on a previous post with higher rated voltage. It's okay to replace with a larger voltage rating than a lower one. You don't want your caps to go pop in the chassis.
dmd said: OK finally got the thing apart. Dozens of caps staring me the face. Quite a few different sizes. How do you tell which are bad? Just the "popped" X on top? Is there a test? Some of them seem marginal, but I don't want to change out good ones. Are 35 volt 1000 microamps OK to replace the 25 volt ones? Please give me the benefit of your experience. Regards David
If the capacitors are off the board, you can use a multimeter that has a capacitor measurement setting to see the farad values. As for which one to replace, I would replace all the ones listed on a previous post with higher rated voltage. It's okay to replace with a larger voltage rating than a lower one. You don't want your caps to go pop in the chassis.
Thanks for the information.
Which Email best describes which ones to replace? I'll remove them all and test and replace are required. Any issue mixing the 25 and 35 volt ones? Location and size need to be dealt with, along with Radio Shacks limited supply.
dmd said: OK finally got the thing apart. Dozens of caps staring me the face. Quite a few different sizes. How do you tell which are bad? Just the "popped" X on top? Is there a test? Some of them seem marginal, but I don't want to change out good ones. Are 35 volt 1000 microamps OK to replace the 25 volt ones? Please give me the benefit of your experience. Regards David
If the capacitors are off the board, you can use a multimeter that has a capacitor measurement setting to see the farad values. As for which one to replace, I would replace all the ones listed on a previous post with higher rated voltage. It's okay to replace with a larger voltage rating than a lower one. You don't want your caps to go pop in the chassis.
Thanks for the information.
Which Email best describes which ones to replace? I'll remove them all and test and replace are required. Any issue mixing the 25 and 35 volt ones? Location and size need to be dealt with, along with Radio Shacks limited supply.
Thanks
David
This is what I bought from digikey.
qty 12
493-1588-ND
CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT HE RADIAL
SCHED B: 853222
ECCN: EAR99
LEAD: LEAD FREE
ROHS: ROHS COMP
qty 2
493-1798-ND
CAP 3300UF 16V ELECT PW RADIAL
SCHED B: 853222
ECCN: EAR99
LEAD: LEAD FREE
ROHS: ROHS COMP
Note that this isn't a guarentee that it will fix all your problems. It didn't total fix my problem, and haven't had a chance for more debugging.
Well I got the tv up and running and is has been working for a few days. This is what I found. I put the new chassis I got from ebay in and it worked for a day. I checked the fuses and caps.. The next time I staarted it up I lost the front control panel. So I swaped the singnal board out withe the original. No difference. So I swaped out the power board. Same. Last I swapeed out the dm board. Finally got it up and working. Note that I still have to use the switch at times. The first time I had to use it but I unplugged it overnight and it was fine the next day. Have not unplugged it since.. This may or maynot be helpfull.....
Bad picture.....Fmt board
Bad inputs("lcd turns on after plugging in an input) Check all blue wires from input to signal board for a short to the chassis or swap out the board.
Yes I found rubbed through wires
ALSO CHECK THE GRAY WIRE FROM THE POWER BOARD TO THE LIGHT ENGINE
BOTH chassis had wire problems orignal was broken and the Ebay one was hitting the chassis
Also I did not put the cover over the fmt board. This was forcing the wires to rub on the chassis.
Last I added another fan to the chassis
I was able to use another fmt board from a diffenent wd... This chassis was set up for a hard drive. The power ,fmt,dm,signal all were diffenet but worked just will not be able to use the hdd. I dont know what was causing the loss for the front control buttons because the part number are the same for all wd tvs
Also that thankyou pawpaw for putting that link in...all infor helps
Sorry guys I swapped out the signal board to get the bottons to work. I swapped the fmt for the picture problems.I swapped the input board for my input problem.I just reread my post..Again sorry for the bad spelling and grammer.
Larry,
Would you please add me to the list of needing the repair documents for my Mitsubishi WD-52525 I seem to have the same blinking green light problem as the everyone else. Thanks in advance. ([email protected])
hello everyone, i too have the blinking green light. if anyone could help me fix it, i would greatly appreciate it. thanks my email is [email protected]
Ok, I replaced 5 blown caps on the power board. Caps on the other boards looked good. Original problem was no picture and blinking green light. Blinking green light has stopped but still no picture. Red light for lamp now comes on. Unit is 4 yrs old and the bulb is the original one that came with the set. Could the bulb be bad too? Can the bulb be checked with an ohm meter?
I have not read every post, but I hope you can give me guidance. Have a WD-52725 with the flashing green light. Replaced about 8 puffy 1000uF caps across 4 boards, plus replaced a larger 3000uf one on the power supply (?) board whose top had literally split open and a brown plasticy substance was oozing out (but solid, like plastic).
Put it all back together and... still flashing green light (plus I hear one fan inside running continuously).
Plug in the tv with the fmt fc 4 wire connector unplugged wait a min until the light stops flashing and plug the fmt back in. The fmt is the board with the FBI connector
We have a solid red light and have tried to replace the lamp. When it first turned off it started flashing and gave out. Can we request a repair manual as well? We'd greatly appreciate it! Please send to [email protected]
Great news to all. I was pulling out my chassis when I noticed the gray wire from the J9 Connector off the Light engine to the power board was cut by the metal chassis. The new chassis I got had the same wire that was shorting to the chassis. I dont know but my tv is now working fine. I put in the wd52825 chassis with a hard drive and plugged it in my WD52525 set. After afew seconds the light stopped flashing and I had a perfect picture. I still have to do some more testing to be sure but wanted to get the info about the wire out there. Also the usb at the top of the DM board is for the front card reader. Knowing alot about computer I dont think that is a good way to test the DM board.As for the fire wire that is just for the front firewire connector and the hard drive. I want to unplug it again and let the tv run for ahile to have sure that fixxes everything but its looking good. Also the new chassis has all new caps...nice and green. I will keep posting please do the same
I have chaneged Capacitors on Power board and DM board in my WD-52525. The "Green Light of Death" is still blinking. How can I get my TV fixed if I don't have warranty?
Congratulations Tony. I looked at my wires and I think I can see exactly where you're talking about. The wire bundle runs through a gap in the chassis behind the supply past the other cards. There are a bunch of sharp edges there and the wires tight. I could see some of my wires scraped but not cut.
I checked the 6vs and 12vs lines on the connector to my FMT board, the one I have to disconnect to get the green blinking light to stop. Voltages were OK. One of the ribbon cables on the bottom that goes to the DM board has a bunch of power supply control signals on is so I disconnected that which also stops the GBL. The start up sequence and interlocks is quite complicated...
I've now pulled the FMT board and checked caps and fuses (again) without finding anything. A friend of mine used to work at a repair shop and is checking with some old friends there for me, but I could be down to ordering a new FMT board. I'd like to know if the FMT board is bad or not but there's no good way to check.
I've read a BUNCH of threads on this problem. I see the patterns - 1) change the caps and it fixes it, 2) changing caps doesn't fix it and a repair of some sort is initiated, or 3) a bunch of effort goes into tracing signals around and reverse engineering a few small areas of the block diagram. I have yet to see #3 result in a positive outcome. It always seems to lead to the need to shot gunning yet another part beyond the caps. Since this requires buying parts, it almost always ends in buying a whole new board or chassis. I can't really spend the time myself to reverse engineer it so...
My backup plan is to butch a switch like Kerry and Ryo if I can't gain certainty about the FMT board or figure things out further. If either Kerry or Ryo you figure out what's going on please post it.
I definitely will post if I figure it out.. assuming it's the same problem. Looks like people have different problems, or it's so touchy that it looks like one thing failed but it's catalyst is really caused by something else. Being a crazy month, working and working on my side business. I haven't gotten a chance to rip everything out again. :(
I definitely am learning more about this TV than I expected from you guys.
Well the problems contiune. The tv worked great for a day. I pluged in the Hdmi and started having problems with the bottons up front then the green light of death. I unplugged the fmt and replugged it in after bootup and the tv worked but the bottons stopped working after awhile. The bottons and the Hdmi do into the back power controller. I thing that is also controlling bootup. Im going to swap it out tonight,but that means that I will have to reinstall my switch.
This is what I tkink is happening.The back board on power up controls everything. It power up the main power board and controls what gets power acting like a switch. All your inputs go into that board(all the blue wires) and controls the fan and the light enigine. I think the ribbons(white) tell the DM board to what to do and again the ribbons tell the Fmt board what to do. I think the bootup problem in the fmt board is locking things up. When we unplug it it powers up fine. I dont think anyone is going to find a solution for this. Its in the software. Just like printers have a chip in the ink cartages to read low or out sooner I think that the board are designed the same way. My brother worked for a printer manufactor and told me some good stories. Anyway I think that we fell into away to get around the software problem. Add a switch. You noticed that after you get it to boot up its fine until you reset or unplug it. Why. Also it does fully power down after you hit the power botton..again why. I will contune to play with my tv but just wanted to get some thoughts out
Hi all,
My blinking light started when I replaced the bulb. Found the directions on the caps for the older model. Tried disassembly, who knows if I broke anything.
I've downloaded the manual, and will get the caps out and in this weekend.
Thanks for all your experiences. I'll Keep you posted.
David
What do you mean it does a full power down after hitting the button? Are you talking about a power down to where you need the reflip the switch?
It's funning how my TV never had a problem for 3 years.. wonder why it starts now. If it was a software problem I would have thought you would have seen it sooner. Maybe the timing is too aggressive possibly, but there's definitely a design flaw in the hardware IMHO.
Sorry to hear you didn't fix your problem. You fell into the same trap as I did.. thought I fixed it finding that pulling the card reader fixed my problem, only to find out a week later it had a blinking light.
Ryo
When you hit the power botton the unit shut shut off almost everything. Some power is still there to memory alive and some other things alive otherwise you would have to relearn all your setting everytime you turned on the set. When you plug it it does a boot check. If it pass the the green light stops blinking. All of our sets are not completing the boot cycle. So the unit just blinks the light. We changed that by unplugging the fmt. Since that boot cycle only does that when you first plug the set to the wall or hit the reset botton the tv will contiune to work. I noticed that ( and I need to make sure) but the relay doesnot power off when you hit the power botton on the tv. That why I said its not completely powering down. Also for the software...We know that unplugging the fmt board stops the light and will be ok after that(unit the reset is hit or loss of power) so we dont know when the tv stopped working correctly. It could have been weeks before. All we did is hit the power botton and watch tv. Some people noticed it when they lost power in a power outage, other when they moved their tv and unplugged it. So when did the problem actully start???? I can see that the caps were under powered but I was read about tv built in 1996 that had the same problem...bad caps. So we know Mitsu has no problems putting in known bad parts that will fail in a few years. Would you think that they would build a better product for $4k or do you think they wanted you to upgrade down the road. It cost $600 to a $1000 to buy a 42 in lcd that has a great picture and takes up less room. It cost $200 for a repaired fmt board or $350 for a chassis..Because Misu doenot make them anymore. The best part is that they made this tv (one form or another) to late 2007. But you cant get new parts?????? I think the software is bad because the way that its acting. Turning on the bulb light for some and the blinking light for others or lines through the screen. Nice thing about software is that it can start doing thing when ever it wants after the warranty is gone....I see it cars everyday. If it is a software problem we are all going to have to but the switch in....
Any way I will try the one board that has the Hdmi later tonight to see if that helps and hope Im wrong about thwe software issue
ps please forgive me for going on and the misspelled words....
Tony G
Hi Larry:
Can you please send me the repair mnual too. I have a solid red light.
My e-mail (no need to pull out the crystal ball) is [email protected]
Thanks much, bro.
Hello Larry I to have a WD52525 and the red light came on. I have unplugged it for a few minutes plugged back on the set turn on no picture but had sound. After a few minutes the set turned off could not turn it back on until I unplugged. Any help would be greatly appreciated my email is [email protected]
Hello all, I hope someone here can help me. I have a mit wd52525 and am getting the blinking green light of death. It seems to happen when I have an antenna and/or the hdmi plugged in. Ran fine all day with the ps3 connected via componant cables. Got an hdmi, connected it and after a bit it shut down and we got the blinking light. unplugging it and hitting the reset will allow us to turn it back on and use it again. havent tried again with just the componant cables. Last night I replaced the caps on the DM board and 2 on the board set that the componant cables go into... turned on and work'd great it seem'd. Scanned for channels with an antenna (would cut out without finishing before). So I hooked up the ps3 with hdmi again and it seemed to work for about 5 minutes, changed to antenna and scanned again. Began watching tv and within about 30 minutes it went out again with the blinking light. I'm ready to shoot the damn thing. Would anyone have any advice? none of the other caps looked bad so I didnt replace any others. Should I replace some on the power board? or how bout the board with the tuners on it? If so, which ones?
Thanks all,
I can be email'd at: wolfnfox(at)cox.net
update: it seems the tv works with the antenna on analog broadcasts and some digital. goes out still when digital broadcast is messed up. video stops, but sound continues until the set just turns off and the light starts blinking.
Well, that day has come. 3.8 years.
Started by the picture getting slightly horizontally wavy and then it went to the usual no signal blue screen. The blue screen was happening for all active inputs (PS3 (HDMI); DVD (Comp); DTV HD (Comp)).
Reset; powered up; lamp came on, no signal; screen severely flickering; odd size and off color; TV menu would pull up, but very hard to see. Change source, powers down to RED lamp LED. Error code is coming up as 34 Lamp Abnormality. After several different attempts now only powers up to RED lamp LED.
I'm more then willing to work through changing up the caps, I just wanted more confidence this will be my fix. Any additional details that can be provided is appreciated.
Larry is pawpawsd's site (http://www.freewebs.com/januismer/televisionrepair.htm) the same info you have been providing? If not, please pass me a copy of your fine documentation and guidance ([email protected])
UPDATE: Dec 16, 2009
Replaced two 1300 mf and one 1000 mf capacitor on the power board. The others on all of the boards looked fine. TV is back to working fine.
Never did hear back from Larry, maybe fell off the grid.
OK finally got the thing apart.
Dozens of caps staring me the face. Quite a few different sizes. How do you tell which are bad? Just the "popped" X on top?
Is there a test? Some of them seem marginal, but I don't want to change out good ones.
Are 35 volt 1000 microamps OK to replace the 25 volt ones?
Please give me the benefit of your experience.
Regards
David
We have had the green blinking light since August. The repair man from our
If the capacitors are off the board, you can use a multimeter that has a capacitor measurement setting to see the farad values.
As for which one to replace, I would replace all the ones listed on a previous post with higher rated voltage. It's okay to replace with a larger voltage rating than a lower one. You don't want your caps to go pop in the chassis.
Thanks for the information.
Which Email best describes which ones to replace? I'll remove them all and test and replace are required. Any issue mixing the 25 and 35 volt ones? Location and size need to be dealt with, along with Radio Shacks limited supply.
Thanks
David
This is what I bought from digikey.
qty 12
493-1588-ND
CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT HE RADIAL
SCHED B: 853222
ECCN: EAR99
LEAD: LEAD FREE
ROHS: ROHS COMP
qty 2
493-1798-ND
CAP 3300UF 16V ELECT PW RADIAL
SCHED B: 853222
ECCN: EAR99
LEAD: LEAD FREE
ROHS: ROHS COMP
Note that this isn't a guarentee that it will fix all your problems. It didn't total fix my problem, and haven't had a chance for more debugging.
Well I got the tv up and running and is has been working for a few days. This is what I found. I put the new chassis I got from ebay in and it worked for a day. I checked the fuses and caps.. The next time I staarted it up I lost the front control panel. So I swaped the singnal board out withe the original. No difference. So I swaped out the power board. Same. Last I swapeed out the dm board. Finally got it up and working. Note that I still have to use the switch at times. The first time I had to use it but I unplugged it overnight and it was fine the next day. Have not unplugged it since.. This may or maynot be helpfull.....
Bad picture.....Fmt board
Bad inputs("lcd turns on after plugging in an input) Check all blue wires from input to signal board for a short to the chassis or swap out the board.
Yes I found rubbed through wires
ALSO CHECK THE GRAY WIRE FROM THE POWER BOARD TO THE LIGHT ENGINE
BOTH chassis had wire problems orignal was broken and the Ebay one was hitting the chassis
Also I did not put the cover over the fmt board. This was forcing the wires to rub on the chassis.
Last I added another fan to the chassis
I was able to use another fmt board from a diffenent wd... This chassis was set up for a hard drive. The power ,fmt,dm,signal all were diffenet but worked just will not be able to use the hdd. I dont know what was causing the loss for the front control buttons because the part number are the same for all wd tvs
Also that thankyou pawpaw for putting that link in...all infor helps
Sorry guys I swapped out the signal board to get the bottons to work. I swapped the fmt for the picture problems.I swapped the input board for my input problem.I just reread my post..Again sorry for the bad spelling and grammer.
Larry,
Would you please add me to the list of needing the repair documents for my Mitsubishi WD-52525 I seem to have the same blinking green light problem as the everyone else. Thanks in advance. ([email protected])
Hey Larry, can you please e-mail me the repair documents as well about the WD-52525 Thank you so much
Larry i forgot to give you my email [email protected]
hello everyone, i too have the blinking green light. if anyone could help me fix it, i would greatly appreciate it. thanks my email is [email protected]
Could anyone E-mail me the directions to fix my blinking light problem, thanks. [email protected]
Model WD 52525
Ok, I replaced 5 blown caps on the power board. Caps on the other boards looked good. Original problem was no picture and blinking green light. Blinking green light has stopped but still no picture. Red light for lamp now comes on. Unit is 4 yrs old and the bulb is the original one that came with the set. Could the bulb be bad too? Can the bulb be checked with an ohm meter?
Thanks
Glen
Hi Larry -
I have not read every post, but I hope you can give me guidance. Have a WD-52725 with the flashing green light. Replaced about 8 puffy 1000uF caps across 4 boards, plus replaced a larger 3000uf one on the power supply (?) board whose top had literally split open and a brown plasticy substance was oozing out (but solid, like plastic).
Put it all back together and... still flashing green light (plus I hear one fan inside running continuously).
Can you help me?
Thanks,
Trevor
[email protected]
Plug in the tv with the fmt fc 4 wire connector unplugged wait a min until the light stops flashing and plug the fmt back in. The fmt is the board with the FBI connector
We have a solid red light and have tried to replace the lamp. When it first turned off it started flashing and gave out. Can we request a repair manual as well? We'd greatly appreciate it! Please send to [email protected]
Thanks!
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