Thanks for the quick response. Got the documents, and have been able to remove the DM board and others. Found 2 bulging caps on the DM, one on the FM. Caps are on order, should be replacing them this weekend.
I appreciate the guides. Was a terrible pain taking this model apart! It is strewn all across my living room right now. I DID find some bulging caps on POWER PWB (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) Question. Are these numbers the Part Numbers for them? If not, can you help me with finding those numbers? I searched through the documents you provided but have been unable to produce any numbers for them besides the ones I have listed. Only those capacitors are needing to be replaced it seems.
Yes, those are the part numbers you want to order. I spent some time figuring what to use for these capacitors. They are 6 volts higher in rating but I have had no trouble using them.
Removed all boards. Bad parts were on the power bd. Changed those out under ths supervision of an electrician, put it all back together. A few left over screws. Now my "Status light" is blinking orange. Any ideas?
Larry Dillon said:
On their way Mike and Phil. Good Luck
Larry,
I replaced all suspect caps based on documents you sent (PWR, FMT, DM). Additonally, there was a bulging cap on the PWB-Signal board (330uF), so I replace that one too. Total of 15 caps. After reassembling and plugging in, it worked. Then after unplugging and moving back to home theater setup, back to green blinking light. Unplugged for 1-hour, still same result. Anything left to try or check? At this point, not sure if it's worth $1000+ to fix. Frustrating for sure. The documents were great, however - thanks again.
metaldog, I have had this also in the past and it turned out to be aditional caps on the power supply board. Now you will need to make some voltage measurments and see what is missing or not up to full voltage.
Larry Dillon said:
metaldog, I have had this also in the past and it turned out to be aditional caps on the power supply board. Now you will need to make some voltage measurments and see what is missing or not up to full voltage.
Larry,
OK, but not sure where to start. Are there any troubleshooting procedures to reference for this? I'm comfortable now taking it apart and reassembling, as well as replacing any components.
The set finally powered up last night after leaving it off for an hour for the 4th or 5th time, so as of this morning, it's working.
I appreciate the help and guidance on this. Please let me know how I can contribute to your cause.
WillTechSavy said:
Ok, my new status:
Removed all boards. Bad parts were on the power bd. Changed those out under ths supervision of an electrician, put it all back together. A few left over screws. Now my "Status light" is blinking orange. Any ideas?
I had the same "Status light" blinking orange. It was the filter door on the left lower side not being properly seated (there is an interlock switch on the lower right corner under the door).
OK. I reseated the door correctly for the filter. The power light started blinking (reloading itself I suspect) then went out. I turned the power on again, the power light stayed solid green like it would normally do. I waited for it to bring the display up. Never did. I rebooted. Same result. No screen. I am sure I am going to have to take this thing apart again (cringes) Any suggestions?
THANKS ALOT FOR THE HELP!!! I received my new capacitors and swapped out the 4 on the DM board and 4 of the same type on the board next to it, one was bulding on that also.
Slapped it all together and it all came up fine.
Just thanks alot, always need an excuse to tear something apart.
you are very welcme man!! Do not forget to look at the service manual your were also given to see how the front of the tV set comes apart so you can clen out the optics. Makes a world of difference on a lot of these TV sets.
Thanks Larry - specifically, my WS-55513 will turn on and show a picture for ~10 seconds, then just shows a bunch of wavy lines across the screen. The power will stay on the whole time (solid green light, not blinking), but the picture doesn't come back (just the wavy lines remain on the screen). The system test returned a 1-2 result, which I think means there's nothing wrong.
I pulled off the DM casing and looked at the caps in the cluster of 4, but don't see any bulging. My TV has the metal topped DM's compared to the plastic topped referred in most of the other issues I've seen posted. Also looked around the other boards and don't see any bulging.
Larry, i know you have been besieged by requests but i found this link on the net after my WS65613 started the blinking green light syndrome desicribed in this thread. And after calling a repair man who said it would cost me $1000 dollars to replace the dm board and probably a month to get the part. I thought i would attempt this repair you speak of. Could you plz send the instructions to [email protected]. I thank You for your time.........
JKII Replace the capacitors anyway. They do not always show a bulge on the tops. I need an e-mail address to send you the repair information. Good Luck
Ok I got new caps and replaced them on the PB, reconnected everything and now finally I have some life in TV, but problem is I have a grey and black weave pattern, can someone please tell me how to fix this problem, I have brand new lamp installed, no remote control.
I replaced the 3330 uF caps on PB, original problem when I got the TV was choppy digital picture, then flashing red status on front panel. Now everything is good to go, did Device-Menu buttons test and I get the 2-1 or 1-2 code, meaning everything is ok, but just have the grey and black weave pattern, just wondering if I have to go back inside and replace something else or it there a way to reset TV besides the button on the front.
OK... so I am back... and I need you guys help once more...
So I sold my WD-52525 for a fraction of the price that I paid for it. It was working just fine... to the local folks who bought it. Then I bought a nice Samsung 52LNa650... needless to say, it is the most beautiful TV that I have ever owned...
The family gets the WD-52525 home, and it works fine for them. THey get the local HD channels, and they get their cable and their Wii all working with it. But then the HOTH (Head of the Household) decides he wants HD, via the cable card... So the cable company comes out, they try over and over again, to try to install the cable card... but are unable to start it up... (says it needs a code, and that "I" , "me" have put a code on it somehow). When they leave, the family is no longer able to see the analog cable channels, only the digital ones... and the Cable company takes the Cable Card...with them. The next day, Cable company comes back, with a DVR... after a few hours work, they kill the TV completely. I visit the family to try to see if I can fix it, but this is what it does...
1) The TV powers on and the status light reads Green, not blinking green, just straight green.
2) Device\Menu button gives a status\error 12 (ie everything is fine).
3) NO PICTURE whatsoever.
4) I can here the slow whirr, but when I power the TV up, I don't here the sharp "Click" of the TV snapping on...
Now, mind you, I had some of the caps replaced on the POwer Supply motherboard, and I purchased a brandnew Bulb, 3 months ago... Filters were clean... TV was working just great, when it left my house, and just great when it got to theirs... WHAT did the Cable company do? And is there any way for me to fix the TV?
Larry,
Thanks for the quick response. Got the documents, and have been able to remove the DM board and others. Found 2 bulging caps on the DM, one on the FM. Caps are on order, should be replacing them this weekend.
Hope I can put it all back together!
Phil
[email protected]
Larry,
I too have a mitsubishi 52525. Could you please send the service manual to me at [email protected]. Thanks
Hola Larry,
I appreciate the guides. Was a terrible pain taking this model apart! It is strewn all across my living room right now. I DID find some bulging caps on POWER PWB (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) Question. Are these numbers the Part Numbers for them? If not, can you help me with finding those numbers? I searched through the documents you provided but have been unable to produce any numbers for them besides the ones I have listed. Only those capacitors are needing to be replaced it seems.
Thanks again Larry.
[email protected]
What do they say on the side of the capacitors?
The small bank of four say 1000 16v. the larger say 3300 10v. If that isnt whats your looking for, ill look again.
Yes, those are the part numbers you want to order. I spent some time figuring what to use for these capacitors. They are 6 volts higher in rating but I have had no trouble using them.
Ok, my new status:
Removed all boards. Bad parts were on the power bd. Changed those out under ths supervision of an electrician, put it all back together. A few left over screws. Now my "Status light" is blinking orange. Any ideas?
Larry,
I replaced all suspect caps based on documents you sent (PWR, FMT, DM). Additonally, there was a bulging cap on the PWB-Signal board (330uF), so I replace that one too. Total of 15 caps. After reassembling and plugging in, it worked. Then after unplugging and moving back to home theater setup, back to green blinking light. Unplugged for 1-hour, still same result. Anything left to try or check? At this point, not sure if it's worth $1000+ to fix. Frustrating for sure. The documents were great, however - thanks again.
Phil
Will, usually, the flashing orange light means there is a bad bulb.
metaldog, I have had this also in the past and it turned out to be aditional caps on the power supply board. Now you will need to make some voltage measurments and see what is missing or not up to full voltage.
Larry,
OK, but not sure where to start. Are there any troubleshooting procedures to reference for this? I'm comfortable now taking it apart and reassembling, as well as replacing any components.
The set finally powered up last night after leaving it off for an hour for the 4th or 5th time, so as of this morning, it's working.
I appreciate the help and guidance on this. Please let me know how I can contribute to your cause.
Phil
I had the same "Status light" blinking orange. It was the filter door on the left lower side not being properly seated (there is an interlock switch on the lower right corner under the door).
Phil
perform the diagnostic test as described in the service manual and see what the lights blink. It will tell you if the filter door is the cause.
Hello. I just found this forum and this thread as my 52525 has just begun having the same issue.
Could you please send me the documents as well? I would greatly appreciate it.
[email protected]
Thanks in advance!
OK. I reseated the door correctly for the filter. The power light started blinking (reloading itself I suspect) then went out. I turned the power on again, the power light stayed solid green like it would normally do. I waited for it to bring the display up. Never did. I rebooted. Same result. No screen. I am sure I am going to have to take this thing apart again (cringes) Any suggestions?
Take voltage measurments now. That is anbout all that can be done. Finfd out what is missing and we can go from there
Hello Larry,
THANKS ALOT FOR THE HELP!!! I received my new capacitors and swapped out the 4 on the DM board and 4 of the same type on the board next to it, one was bulding on that also.
Slapped it all together and it all came up fine.
Just thanks alot, always need an excuse to tear something apart.
Devin
you are very welcme man!! Do not forget to look at the service manual your were also given to see how the front of the tV set comes apart so you can clen out the optics. Makes a world of difference on a lot of these TV sets.
My WD 62525 is now experiencing the flashing continuous green light. Would you please send the service documents to
[email protected]
Many thanks!
Larry -
Can you email the service docs to me at [email protected]? I have a WS-55513 that's having similar issues.
Thanks Larry - specifically, my WS-55513 will turn on and show a picture for ~10 seconds, then just shows a bunch of wavy lines across the screen. The power will stay on the whole time (solid green light, not blinking), but the picture doesn't come back (just the wavy lines remain on the screen). The system test returned a 1-2 result, which I think means there's nothing wrong.
I pulled off the DM casing and looked at the caps in the cluster of 4, but don't see any bulging. My TV has the metal topped DM's compared to the plastic topped referred in most of the other issues I've seen posted. Also looked around the other boards and don't see any bulging.
Any advise on where to look next?
Larry, i know you have been besieged by requests but i found this link on the net after my WS65613 started the blinking green light syndrome desicribed in this thread. And after calling a repair man who said it would cost me $1000 dollars to replace the dm board and probably a month to get the part. I thought i would attempt this repair you speak of. Could you plz send the instructions to [email protected]. I thank You for your time.........
JKII Replace the capacitors anyway. They do not always show a bulge on the tops. I need an e-mail address to send you the repair information. Good Luck
Thanks Larry - You sent them to me last night at [email protected] so I'll get to work. Do you recommend installing the PC fan to keep the temp down?
Ok I got new caps and replaced them on the PB, reconnected everything and now finally I have some life in TV, but problem is I have a grey and black weave pattern, can someone please tell me how to fix this problem, I have brand new lamp installed, no remote control.
Did you replace all of the caps I recommended? What caps did you replace and what caps did you not replace?
Larry, I have a WD-52525 with the flashing green light problem. Could you send me a copy of your instructions to [email protected]?
Thanks
I replaced the 3330 uF caps on PB, original problem when I got the TV was choppy digital picture, then flashing red status on front panel. Now everything is good to go, did Device-Menu buttons test and I get the 2-1 or 1-2 code, meaning everything is ok, but just have the grey and black weave pattern, just wondering if I have to go back inside and replace something else or it there a way to reset TV besides the button on the front.
OK... so I am back... and I need you guys help once more...
So I sold my WD-52525 for a fraction of the price that I paid for it. It was working just fine... to the local folks who bought it. Then I bought a nice Samsung 52LNa650... needless to say, it is the most beautiful TV that I have ever owned...
The family gets the WD-52525 home, and it works fine for them. THey get the local HD channels, and they get their cable and their Wii all working with it. But then the HOTH (Head of the Household) decides he wants HD, via the cable card... So the cable company comes out, they try over and over again, to try to install the cable card... but are unable to start it up... (says it needs a code, and that "I" , "me" have put a code on it somehow). When they leave, the family is no longer able to see the analog cable channels, only the digital ones... and the Cable company takes the Cable Card...with them. The next day, Cable company comes back, with a DVR... after a few hours work, they kill the TV completely. I visit the family to try to see if I can fix it, but this is what it does...
1) The TV powers on and the status light reads Green, not blinking green, just straight green.
2) Device\Menu button gives a status\error 12 (ie everything is fine).
3) NO PICTURE whatsoever.
4) I can here the slow whirr, but when I power the TV up, I don't here the sharp "Click" of the TV snapping on...
Now, mind you, I had some of the caps replaced on the POwer Supply motherboard, and I purchased a brandnew Bulb, 3 months ago... Filters were clean... TV was working just great, when it left my house, and just great when it got to theirs... WHAT did the Cable company do? And is there any way for me to fix the TV?
Just to let everyone know, my WS-73713 is fine now. I just let the light blink until it stopped and everything is fine now!!!
jv
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