Replaced all my capacitors on the DM board Power board and other board. Still getting the blinking light. How do you check fuses F9A02 & F9A03. Are there test points on the board or do I power up and check for a centain voltage and if so what should they read. Thanks for you help. email: [email protected]
I have changed all the bad capacitors on all the boards in my Mitsubishi. I have also checked the two fuses mentioned and they are fine. I also tried unpluging the FC clip from the board, which didn't work either. Is there anything else I should check. If it is a bad DM board where would someone find a replacement board? Thanks for the help. email: [email protected]
The flashing light did not go out when you unplugged the FC plug? after the light goes out you are suppose to plug it back in, then try and turn on the set.if that does not work check the voltages in the main power supply.
I have the 52" WD-52525. I had the blinking red light, did the diagnostic and I believe it was 44. I started looking up info on this when I came across this page. I then did the reset on the front panel and now I have the constant blinking green light. I have replaced two bulbs in the 3 years that I have owned this tv, however it's not the lamp light that's blinking so before I dish out big bucks for a new bulb can you help me with this by sending me the repair manual to [email protected]? Thanks
Can I get any information as stated above regarding the WD 62525. I'm receiving a V26-DLP Signal PCB Repair Kit this week and want to ensure that I'm doing everything properly. Thanks in advance! My e-mail is [email protected]
By the way I had a Mitsubishi tech look at this and gave a $600 estimate, so I called Mitsubishi Customer Care and told them the technician told me to call and get repair info to send this circuit board to. They told me it would be $500 for the rebuild, I told them It should be covered under extended warranty due to cap failure. They said nope it isn't. I told them I was calling about the extended warranty Class Action Lawsuit that is going on and they responded with,
No the light didn't go out when I unplugged the FC Connector, it still blinks constantly. My two fuses are checking fine on the power board. Not sure where to go from here. Anything else I could try? Thanks
Hi folks,
I'm a few months into this with Mitsubishi. Ultimately the're paying for all the parts, a rebuilt chassis and $100 of the labor bill from their prefered shop. I'm into it for $250 plus the bulb that started it all. Rebult chassis started to work, but then shut down. Light engine issues?
They took the whole thing to their shop last week.
I'll keep you posted
DD here in OC
Larry,
Please help me too, I have a wd-52525 with the blinking green light and the tv wont turn on. I have read many of these and understand you have the info I need to fix the boards. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks
After several phone calls with Mitsubishi Customer Relations, They agreed to pay for the parts only($350 out of $600). I am still trying to iron out labor with the repair shop or mitsubishi since I already paid once. Customer Relations is real easy to get ahold of and talk to someone but hard to understand.
I'm also in need of the instructions of how to relplace the capacitors in the WD-52525. Can someone please forward to me at [email protected]? I greatly appreciate your help!
Hi Larry i also have the non stop blinking green light on my Mitsubishi WD-52525 and i was wondering if you could send me the manual on how to fix this problem. my email is [email protected]
I completed the capacitor replacement on three boards: TERM-2, FMT (Formatter), and DM. All three boards had obviously defective capacitors (bulging, swollen, but not leaking yet). In all, I replaced all 10 of the 1000 uF electrolytic capacitors with new, high-quality ones (25v versions). The caps on the PWR board were visibly OK.
After reassembly (a couple hours) I plugged the set AC cord in and it operated normally again! The picture was perfectly fine (no diagonal lines or blurring).
It was great while it lasted. However, after about 10 minutes, the set shut power down and the blinking green light came back on, incessantly. Again, the reset button has no effect. Unplugging the set for a couple days and then reconnecting to wall AC outlet has no effect.
I noted the FC connector on the FMT board, having read recommendations to disconnect this (i.e., via installing a switch that interrupts this circuit connector) when powering on the set. Thinking I may try it, as I've read in these pages that this may work to resolve the blinking green light. Others have said this does not resolve the problem. Any comments on why it works if/when it does?
Not sure what problem this approach is trying to resolve. Since FC carries power to the FMT board (from the K1 connector on the Power PWB), this technique seems to suggest that you want to power on all the other boards first, and apply power to Formatter board after everything else is stable. If that is the general idea, why does it work for some and not for others? If it does work, it is a cheap if cumbersome solution.
The Service Manual does not include specific troubleshooting steps or sequence of actions to reset the system power supply. The entire trouble seems to stem from a unstable power supply that will not stabilize. Getting to the root of this problem requires troubleshooting the Power board during the power-up cycle. Since that is nearly impossible to do in the field, this is why Mitsu has all their service representatives just replace the entire Digital Chassis with a fully reconditioned one.
Do I need to order a new Power Board? If so, where to order from?
THe caps probably blew out again as you did not replace the large 3300 uf caps in the power supply, I am not sure why disconnecting the FC connector works for some and not the others unless it is that a lot of folks try and take the easy way out and without replacing any caps first the try and disconnect the FC plug FIRST!!!Replacing the power supply caps is paramount, as if these are bad , and NO they do not have to look bad !It puts AC ripple into the rest of the set
I have a WD-52525 that recently had the steady red light (lamp) stay on. An error check (holding menu & device) showed a 34 (lamp abnormality). I replaced the lamp and yet there is no change. The error code still shows a 34 (lamp abnormality). If I shut the TV down and wait a while, the red light goes off. Then if I turn the TV back on, I get no picture and after about 60 seconds, the TV shuts off with the constant red light at lamp. I can then do an error check and get the 34.
Do you know what is usually the problem in cases like this? I do realize that there might not be a simple answer. I guess I'm fishing before having to spend any money on a technician, which I think I would just rather buy a new TV instead. Thank you for any advice.
Apparently, after reading about 50 pages today, the steady red light can also be a capacitor problem. I guess I will just have to try myself. If you have a prepackaged thing for this problem, I'm at [email protected]. Thanks
PS, thanks for the quick reply. The cover is on nice. I heard a "POW" in the back of the set right before it went bad. Would capacitors make a small "pow"?
Larry, I need some help before my wife kicks me out to the dog house because of "needing" this tv. The picture was dark and we had an orange light, so instead of going with another mitsubishi lamp for the 3rd time I decided to order a generic lamp. I turned off the tv and waited for about a hour then unplugged the tv and installed the new lamp. When I plugged in the tv after, I now have the blinking green light and nothing else. From reading several sites it seems like it the DM board. I found the service manual guide on this site but I didnt see anything about the DM board in the guide. If you could please send me the information to [email protected] unless you think it could be something else. Model # WD-62725
xombi said: Hi Larry, First of all, thanks for all the great info and help you've provided already on this forum. I have a Mitsubushi model no. WD-52525 and have also had the blinking green light problem. However, the tv was bought as a joint purchase with two other friends and they didn't want to spend any more money to fix it so we've just been working around the auto shut-off problem for a while now. Basically, we just turn it off for a while then turn it back on and hope it stays on. Obviously not the smartest tactic we could have taken. In any case, we turned on the tv this morning and found a brand new surprise. The screen had a light blue and black checkered pattern all over it and it didn't respond to anything. We still had sound when we put on a dvd but absolutely no image of any kind. Do you have any idea what this could be? I'm guessing the tv just finally gave up after all our abuse but would like a professional opinion to back that up before we decide what to do with it. If this is something fixable using the user docs you've been sending out then please send one to me as well at philipfrantzis at yahoo.com. Thanks again for any help you can provide! Philip
I Have the same blue and black checker board screen on my wd- 52525. What was problem with yours. Thank you Glenn [email protected]
i have a WD-52725 with the blinking green timer/power light
previously i could reset it via holding down Menu and Device
and it would work fine, but after a recent power outage this no longer works
if possible could i get some instruction on where to start, and possibly a service manual, [email protected]
I, too, have the constant blinking green light on - this is a Mitsubishi WD-52525. about a year ago, I had the constant non-blinking red light, and the tech replaced a few capacitors.
would you kindly email the docs/instructions to handling the blinking green light please?
After having the constant blinking green light issue earlier this year I bought a recondiditioned chassis and replaced it and the tv started working fine except for the device menu button not working on the remote, no biggie, I don' chance divice inputs that often anyway.
Today I lost all device inputs except for ant-1, I normally use input-1 and input-2
I also still have the card reader inputs.
any idea what the problem might be and how to fix?
where would you like the repair info sent to?? E-mail please.
Larry,
Replaced all my capacitors on the DM board Power board and other board. Still getting the blinking light. How do you check fuses F9A02 & F9A03. Are there test points on the board or do I power up and check for a centain voltage and if so what should they read. Thanks for you help. email: [email protected]
Larry,
I have changed all the bad capacitors on all the boards in my Mitsubishi. I have also checked the two fuses mentioned and they are fine. I also tried unpluging the FC clip from the board, which didn't work either. Is there anything else I should check. If it is a bad DM board where would someone find a replacement board? Thanks for the help. email: [email protected]
Ross
The flashing light did not go out when you unplugged the FC plug? after the light goes out you are suppose to plug it back in, then try and turn on the set.if that does not work check the voltages in the main power supply.
I have the 52" WD-52525. I had the blinking red light, did the diagnostic and I believe it was 44. I started looking up info on this when I came across this page. I then did the reset on the front panel and now I have the constant blinking green light. I have replaced two bulbs in the 3 years that I have owned this tv, however it's not the lamp light that's blinking so before I dish out big bucks for a new bulb can you help me with this by sending me the repair manual to [email protected]? Thanks
Larry,
Can I get any information as stated above regarding the WD 62525. I'm receiving a V26-DLP Signal PCB Repair Kit this week and want to ensure that I'm doing everything properly. Thanks in advance! My e-mail is [email protected]
I would also like info for this repair Please
[email protected]
By the way I had a Mitsubishi tech look at this and gave a $600 estimate, so I called Mitsubishi Customer Care and told them the technician told me to call and get repair info to send this circuit board to. They told me it would be $500 for the rebuild, I told them It should be covered under extended warranty due to cap failure. They said nope it isn't. I told them I was calling about the extended warranty Class Action Lawsuit that is going on and they responded with,
No the light didn't go out when I unplugged the FC Connector, it still blinks constantly. My two fuses are checking fine on the power board. Not sure where to go from here. Anything else I could try? Thanks
Where do you check the main voltages and what should they read?
Hi folks,
I'm a few months into this with Mitsubishi. Ultimately the're paying for all the parts, a rebuilt chassis and $100 of the labor bill from their prefered shop. I'm into it for $250 plus the bulb that started it all. Rebult chassis started to work, but then shut down. Light engine issues?
They took the whole thing to their shop last week.
I'll keep you posted
DD here in OC
Could you please send info on wd52725 for blinking green light.
[email protected]
Thanks.
Please keep all informed of this repair?
Larry,
Please help me too, I have a wd-52525 with the blinking green light and the tv wont turn on. I have read many of these and understand you have the info I need to fix the boards. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks
Send e-mail too [email protected]
After several phone calls with Mitsubishi Customer Relations, They agreed to pay for the parts only($350 out of $600). I am still trying to iron out labor with the repair shop or mitsubishi since I already paid once. Customer Relations is real easy to get ahold of and talk to someone but hard to understand.
I'm also in need of the instructions of how to relplace the capacitors in the WD-52525. Can someone please forward to me at [email protected]? I greatly appreciate your help!
Hi Larry i also have the non stop blinking green light on my Mitsubishi WD-52525 and i was wondering if you could send me the manual on how to fix this problem. my email is [email protected]
I completed the capacitor replacement on three boards: TERM-2, FMT (Formatter), and DM. All three boards had obviously defective capacitors (bulging, swollen, but not leaking yet). In all, I replaced all 10 of the 1000 uF electrolytic capacitors with new, high-quality ones (25v versions). The caps on the PWR board were visibly OK.
After reassembly (a couple hours) I plugged the set AC cord in and it operated normally again! The picture was perfectly fine (no diagonal lines or blurring).
It was great while it lasted. However, after about 10 minutes, the set shut power down and the blinking green light came back on, incessantly. Again, the reset button has no effect. Unplugging the set for a couple days and then reconnecting to wall AC outlet has no effect.
I noted the FC connector on the FMT board, having read recommendations to disconnect this (i.e., via installing a switch that interrupts this circuit connector) when powering on the set. Thinking I may try it, as I've read in these pages that this may work to resolve the blinking green light. Others have said this does not resolve the problem. Any comments on why it works if/when it does?
Not sure what problem this approach is trying to resolve. Since FC carries power to the FMT board (from the K1 connector on the Power PWB), this technique seems to suggest that you want to power on all the other boards first, and apply power to Formatter board after everything else is stable. If that is the general idea, why does it work for some and not for others? If it does work, it is a cheap if cumbersome solution.
The Service Manual does not include specific troubleshooting steps or sequence of actions to reset the system power supply. The entire trouble seems to stem from a unstable power supply that will not stabilize. Getting to the root of this problem requires troubleshooting the Power board during the power-up cycle. Since that is nearly impossible to do in the field, this is why Mitsu has all their service representatives just replace the entire Digital Chassis with a fully reconditioned one.
Do I need to order a new Power Board? If so, where to order from?
Thanks again,
-- TJ
THe caps probably blew out again as you did not replace the large 3300 uf caps in the power supply, I am not sure why disconnecting the FC connector works for some and not the others unless it is that a lot of folks try and take the easy way out and without replacing any caps first the try and disconnect the FC plug FIRST!!!Replacing the power supply caps is paramount, as if these are bad , and NO they do not have to look bad !It puts AC ripple into the rest of the set
I have a WD-52525 that recently had the steady red light (lamp) stay on. An error check (holding menu & device) showed a 34 (lamp abnormality). I replaced the lamp and yet there is no change. The error code still shows a 34 (lamp abnormality). If I shut the TV down and wait a while, the red light goes off. Then if I turn the TV back on, I get no picture and after about 60 seconds, the TV shuts off with the constant red light at lamp. I can then do an error check and get the 34.
Do you know what is usually the problem in cases like this? I do realize that there might not be a simple answer. I guess I'm fishing before having to spend any money on a technician, which I think I would just rather buy a new TV instead. Thank you for any advice.
Make sure the lamp cover is on all the way and buttoned down correctly. or you could have several bad capacitors thst need to be replaced.
Apparently, after reading about 50 pages today, the steady red light can also be a capacitor problem. I guess I will just have to try myself. If you have a prepackaged thing for this problem, I'm at [email protected]. Thanks
PS, thanks for the quick reply. The cover is on nice. I heard a "POW" in the back of the set right before it went bad. Would capacitors make a small "pow"?
Larry, I need some help before my wife kicks me out to the dog house because of "needing" this tv. The picture was dark and we had an orange light, so instead of going with another mitsubishi lamp for the 3rd time I decided to order a generic lamp. I turned off the tv and waited for about a hour then unplugged the tv and installed the new lamp. When I plugged in the tv after, I now have the blinking green light and nothing else. From reading several sites it seems like it the DM board. I found the service manual guide on this site but I didnt see anything about the DM board in the guide. If you could please send me the information to [email protected] unless you think it could be something else. Model # WD-62725
Larry,
Need the repair instructions please for Mitsu WD-52525. Same problem as the others, blinking lights and shut down. Thanks, [email protected]
I Have the same blue and black checker board screen on my wd- 52525. What was problem with yours. Thank you Glenn [email protected]
Larry,
Can you please also send me the repair instructions for fixing the blinking green light problem on WD-52525? My email is [email protected].
Thanks!!!
Peter
Hello Larry,
i have a WD-52725 with the blinking green timer/power light
previously i could reset it via holding down Menu and Device
and it would work fine, but after a recent power outage this no longer works
if possible could i get some instruction on where to start, and possibly a service manual, [email protected]
Hello Larry,
I, too, have the constant blinking green light on - this is a Mitsubishi WD-52525. about a year ago, I had the constant non-blinking red light, and the tech replaced a few capacitors.
would you kindly email the docs/instructions to handling the blinking green light please?
thanks very much in advance.
[email protected]
After having the constant blinking green light issue earlier this year I bought a recondiditioned chassis and replaced it and the tv started working fine except for the device menu button not working on the remote, no biggie, I don' chance divice inputs that often anyway.
Today I lost all device inputs except for ant-1, I normally use input-1 and input-2
I also still have the card reader inputs.
any idea what the problem might be and how to fix?
Hello, Larry, and thank you for all the advice you have given others on this thread (since last year!)
I wondered if you have and could send me the pdf for the 62525.
My email is t h a t g u y f l i n [email protected]
Cwhense,
Where to do purchase your replacement chassis?
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