Hey Alain - I believe the manual is posted on this website... Search for the chasis# (it's on the back of the TV) and it should get you close.
It's done through hidden menus that you access by hitting a sequence of buttons on the remote.
OH - and BEWARE... IF the manual tells you to INI DO NOT INI. It was a mistake in the manual and you'll be wasting all day (or even days!) to find and fix the settings.
Hi guys, I had the problem and bought the stk392-570 to replace the 560. First two I ordered was bad (frustrated, I thought the thing broke but I gain some thought and order another 2), the latter works. I could adjust the crosshatch now except the red horizontal . I could move the red left to right but not up and down. plus the red looks like it still have the bow tie effect. I tried adjusting the Red PIN too but it doesn't do anything. Any ideas? I feel accomplished getting most of the tv to work correctly but this red up down is the only thing left. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I have a question for you Larry. I have replaced the convergance ICs in my Mitsubishi projector TV and it works perfectly. I recently replaced the ICs in a Sony KP46WT510, but it didnt help. I've read all the posts about the pico fuses and testing the resistors which I plan to do. The question I have is I know the soldering pins should not have any bridges between each other on the ICs but are there 3 or 4 pins which are bridged between resistors right next to the ICs.
If you have any diagrams showing excactly which pins are (if any) supposed to be bridged to components alongside the IC solder points it would help me out greatly.
Thank You
davedrumdude
So I have replaced both IC's twice, definitely good solder and ICs, I have checked all fuses on D board and Both fuses on G Board. Still getting blue shadow convergence problem and left IC is not heating up. Please take a guess if anyone has any word of advice.
now it is time to brng out the voltage meter look at the schematic and measure on the IC's for the plus nd minus 22 volts and see where your losing it, perhaps a low value resistor or a coil in the circuit perhaps?
Larry, my D board does not have pico's under the heat sink, only hard wired, must be a old model. Haven't checked the G board yet, but have removed the IC's, any thoughts on the D board picos.
Larry the company only shipped one of three metal chip resistors I needed, they are back ordered until nov 17th, I can't find any other source of the metal chip resistors, they are the 100 ohm variety, seriously thinking of stuffing 1/8 watt 100ohm onto the board. I ordered from PartStore.com. Have searched for other companies that stock the part 121680911 Metal Chip Resistor....HELP.
I used too much heat on the first two pins of the IC and lost the resistors to heat, then changed guns and from then on worked out ok. They are puff, gone, need new ones.
So the D board is coming out again, getting +/- 22 to the D board. Checked the picos on the D they were good before, now to re-look the solder joints on the IC's. Had high hopes and may have to call a pro for the alignment when all is said and done.
Also when ordering the new Sanyo IC's, I didn't realize the company listed them in pairs, so I ordered 2 thinking I needed 2 IC's, and I got 4 so two new Sanyo's here in my camp for the needy.
Finished checking the board and all pico, all good, touched each solder joint, checked for shorts, board going back in. what is the part number for the D board?
Charlie Chan said: Larry, my D board does not have pico's under the heat sink, only hard wired, must be a old model. Haven't checked the G board yet, but have removed the IC's, any thoughts on the D board picos.
And my mistake, there are three pico's under each heat sink and all check good. only found the one bad one on the G board.
Here is a pic of my board with the STK and heat sink removed. You can see the 3 pico fuses. I used a $12 de-soldering iron from radio shack and it worked like a charm. No more solder pumping for me.
Yes, I found three under each heat sink and they all check good, re-soldered, used my big glass looking for bridges or splashes, nothing. Did change one pico on the G board and have 22 coming into the D board, heat sinks are not getting warm at all. Putting it down for the night.
Also can't find a good schematic for the D board, found the board layout and block diagram, but not a good schematic for troubleshooting. Is it in the download? thanks Larry.
But I am getting 22+/- out of the G board and 22+/- at connector 8013 on the D board, then I lose my 22V. Pulling my hair out here, re-checked the pico's on the D board, and the G board, all show to be good. HELP!!!!!
Re-solder and cleaned the 8013 connector, now have 22+/- at the IC, but still bowing. Green major bowing at bottom and top, Red not centered lines are pretty straight, blue not centered bowing at bottom and top. time for a new D board me thinks.
Hey Alain - I believe the manual is posted on this website... Search for the chasis# (it's on the back of the TV) and it should get you close.
It's done through hidden menus that you access by hitting a sequence of buttons on the remote.
OH - and BEWARE... IF the manual tells you to INI DO NOT INI. It was a mistake in the manual and you'll be wasting all day (or even days!) to find and fix the settings.
(please don't ask how I know....)
Hi Pokester, thanks for your reply, when you say clean the lenses, are you talking about the projectors ?
Hi guys, I had the problem and bought the stk392-570 to replace the 560. First two I ordered was bad (frustrated, I thought the thing broke but I gain some thought and order another 2), the latter works. I could adjust the crosshatch now except the red horizontal . I could move the red left to right but not up and down. plus the red looks like it still have the bow tie effect. I tried adjusting the Red PIN too but it doesn't do anything. Any ideas? I feel accomplished getting most of the tv to work correctly but this red up down is the only thing left. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
you probably have bad resistors on the conergence board that is causing the red veritcal not to work.
I have a question for you Larry. I have replaced the convergance ICs in my Mitsubishi projector TV and it works perfectly. I recently replaced the ICs in a Sony KP46WT510, but it didnt help. I've read all the posts about the pico fuses and testing the resistors which I plan to do. The question I have is I know the soldering pins should not have any bridges between each other on the ICs but are there 3 or 4 pins which are bridged between resistors right next to the ICs.
If you have any diagrams showing excactly which pins are (if any) supposed to be bridged to components alongside the IC solder points it would help me out greatly.
Thank You
davedrumdude
So I have replaced both IC's twice, definitely good solder and ICs, I have checked all fuses on D board and Both fuses on G Board. Still getting blue shadow convergence problem and left IC is not heating up. Please take a guess if anyone has any word of advice.
Frustrated Mike
now it is time to brng out the voltage meter look at the schematic and measure on the IC's for the plus nd minus 22 volts and see where your losing it, perhaps a low value resistor or a coil in the circuit perhaps?
Larry, my D board does not have pico's under the heat sink, only hard wired, must be a old model. Haven't checked the G board yet, but have removed the IC's, any thoughts on the D board picos.
The immediate problem, too much heat when removing the IC's and now need two metal chip resistors, 100ohm, 1/10w. HELP
Hi, I am having convergence problem with my Sony KP53HS30.
I am reasonably skilled at soldering and electronics but I will still call myself a novice.
I opened the TV set but dont see D or G marked clearly. Pictures will certainly help me to get to the boards and understand how to remove them.
Can someone please send the service manual. Will be helpful to understand the boards/layout, etc. Thanks a ton!
My email: [email protected]
Well Larry today may be the day of twezzers and the big round mag bulb, for the chip resisitors, (fleas) as I call them.
oh and before you start BLOW YOUR NOSE!! You do not want sneeze while doing this.
Larry the company only shipped one of three metal chip resistors I needed, they are back ordered until nov 17th, I can't find any other source of the metal chip resistors, they are the 100 ohm variety, seriously thinking of stuffing 1/8 watt 100ohm onto the board. I ordered from PartStore.com. Have searched for other companies that stock the part 121680911 Metal Chip Resistor....HELP.
Are you sure those are Bad?, I have NVER EVER had these resistors bad before.
I used too much heat on the first two pins of the IC and lost the resistors to heat, then changed guns and from then on worked out ok. They are puff, gone, need new ones.
Got the new ones, put on the 2 new IC's and resistors, looked everything over for bridges, hooked up, fired up and just as bad as before. ugh
replaced one on the G board and all were good on the d board. only had 6 picos with two wire jumpers installed by sony.
So the D board is coming out again, getting +/- 22 to the D board. Checked the picos on the D they were good before, now to re-look the solder joints on the IC's. Had high hopes and may have to call a pro for the alignment when all is said and done.
Also when ordering the new Sanyo IC's, I didn't realize the company listed them in pairs, so I ordered 2 thinking I needed 2 IC's, and I got 4 so two new Sanyo's here in my camp for the needy.
Finished checking the board and all pico, all good, touched each solder joint, checked for shorts, board going back in. what is the part number for the D board?
And my mistake, there are three pico's under each heat sink and all check good. only found the one bad one on the G board.
Here is a pic of my board with the STK and heat sink removed. You can see the 3 pico fuses. I used a $12 de-soldering iron from radio shack and it worked like a charm. No more solder pumping for me.
Yes, I found three under each heat sink and they all check good, re-soldered, used my big glass looking for bridges or splashes, nothing. Did change one pico on the G board and have 22 coming into the D board, heat sinks are not getting warm at all. Putting it down for the night.
what is the voltage on those two yellow pico's by the heat sink? on both sides?
Got to get some type of extension to get under the heat sink to measure, I'm looking...
I have +/- 22 coming off the G board. 0 volts on either side of the picos on the D board.
Also can't find a good schematic for the D board, found the board layout and block diagram, but not a good schematic for troubleshooting. Is it in the download? thanks Larry.
look for the chassis number on the other manuals some are the same thing
But I am getting 22+/- out of the G board and 22+/- at connector 8013 on the D board, then I lose my 22V. Pulling my hair out here, re-checked the pico's on the D board, and the G board, all show to be good. HELP!!!!!
Re-solder and cleaned the 8013 connector, now have 22+/- at the IC, but still bowing. Green major bowing at bottom and top, Red not centered lines are pretty straight, blue not centered bowing at bottom and top. time for a new D board me thinks.
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