Sony KP-46WT500 Convergence Repair

457 posts / 0 new
Last post
Pokester
Hey Alain - I believe the

Hey Alain - I believe the manual is posted on this website... Search for the chasis# (it's on the back of the TV) and it should get you close.

It's done through hidden menus that you access by hitting a sequence of buttons on the remote.

OH - and BEWARE... IF the manual tells you to INI DO NOT INI. It was a mistake in the manual and you'll be wasting all day (or even days!) to find and fix the settings.

(please don't ask how I know....)

Alain
Hi Pokester, thanks for your

Hi Pokester, thanks for your reply, when you say clean the lenses, are you talking about the projectors ?

TD
Hi guys, I had the problem

Hi guys, I had the problem and bought the stk392-570 to replace the 560. First two I ordered was bad (frustrated, I thought the thing broke but I gain some thought and order another 2), the latter works. I could adjust the crosshatch now except the red horizontal . I could move the red left to right but not up and down. plus the red looks like it still have the bow tie effect. I tried adjusting the Red PIN too but it doesn't do anything. Any ideas? I feel accomplished getting most of the tv to work correctly but this red up down is the only thing left. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Larry Dillon
you probably have bad

you probably have bad resistors on the conergence board that is causing the red veritcal not to work.

davedrumdude
   I have a question for you

   I have a question for you Larry. I have replaced the convergance ICs in my Mitsubishi projector TV and it works perfectly. I recently replaced the ICs in a Sony KP46WT510, but it didnt help. I've read all the posts about the pico fuses and testing the resistors which I plan to do. The question I have is I know the soldering pins should not have any bridges between each other on the ICs but are there 3 or 4 pins which are bridged between resistors right next to the ICs.
 If you have any diagrams showing excactly which pins are (if any) supposed to be bridged to components alongside the IC solder points it would help me out greatly.
 Thank You
davedrumdude

chicho953
So I have replaced both IC's

So I have replaced both IC's twice, definitely good solder and ICs, I have checked all fuses on D board and Both fuses on G Board. Still getting blue shadow convergence problem and left IC is not heating up. Please take a guess if anyone has any word of advice.

Frustrated Mike

Larry Dillon
now it is time to brng out

now it is time to brng out the voltage meter look at the schematic and measure on the IC's for the plus nd minus 22 volts and see where your losing it, perhaps a low value resistor or a coil in the circuit perhaps?

Charlie Chan
Larry, my D board does not

Larry, my D board does not have pico's under the heat sink, only hard wired, must be a old model. Haven't checked the G board yet, but have removed the IC's, any thoughts on the D board picos.

Charlie Chan
The immediate problem, too

The immediate problem, too much heat when removing the IC's and now need two metal chip resistors, 100ohm, 1/10w. HELP

JAT
Hi, I am having convergence

Hi, I am having convergence problem with my Sony KP53HS30.
I am reasonably skilled at soldering and electronics but I will still call myself a novice.

I opened the TV set but dont see D or G marked clearly. Pictures will certainly help me to get to the boards and understand how to remove them.

Can someone please send the service manual. Will be helpful to understand the boards/layout, etc. Thanks a ton!
My email: [email protected]

Charlie Chan
Well Larry today may be the

Well Larry today may be the day of twezzers and the big round mag bulb, for the chip resisitors, (fleas) as I call them.

Larry Dillon
oh and before you start BLOW

oh and before you start BLOW YOUR NOSE!! You do not want sneeze while doing this.

Charlie Chan
Larry the company only

Larry the company only shipped one of three metal chip resistors I needed, they are back ordered until nov 17th, I can't find any other source of the metal chip resistors, they are the 100 ohm variety, seriously thinking of stuffing 1/8 watt 100ohm onto the board. I ordered from PartStore.com. Have searched for other companies that stock the part 121680911 Metal Chip Resistor....HELP.

Larry Dillon
Are you sure those are Bad?,

Are you sure those are Bad?, I have NVER EVER had these resistors bad before.

Charlie Chan
I used too much heat on the

I used too much heat on the first two pins of the IC and lost the resistors to heat, then changed guns and from then on worked out ok. They are puff, gone, need new ones.

Charlie Chan
Got the new ones, put on the

Got the new ones, put on the 2 new IC's and resistors, looked everything over for bridges, hooked up, fired up and just as bad as before. ugh

Charlie Chan
replaced one on the G board

replaced one on the G board and all were good on the d board. only had 6 picos with two wire jumpers installed by sony.

Charlie Chan
So the D board is coming out

So the D board is coming out again, getting +/- 22 to the D board. Checked the picos on the D they were good before, now to re-look the solder joints on the IC's. Had high hopes and may have to call a pro for the alignment when all is said and done.

Charlie Chan
Also when ordering the new

Also when ordering the new Sanyo IC's, I didn't realize the company listed them in pairs, so I ordered 2 thinking I needed 2 IC's, and I got 4 so two new Sanyo's here in my camp for the needy.

Charlie Chan
Finished checking the board

Finished checking the board and all pico, all good, touched each solder joint, checked for shorts, board going back in. what is the part number for the D board?

Charlie Chan
Charlie Chan said: Larry, my

Charlie Chan said: Larry, my D board does not have pico's under the heat sink, only hard wired, must be a old model. Haven't checked the G board yet, but have removed the IC's, any thoughts on the D board picos.

And my mistake, there are three pico's under each heat sink and all check good.  only found the one bad one on the G board.

CubanX
Here is a pic of my board

Here is a pic of my board with the STK and heat sink removed. You can see the 3 pico fuses. I used a $12 de-soldering iron from radio shack and it worked like a charm. No more solder pumping for me.

Charlie Chan
Yes, I found three under each

Yes, I found three under each heat sink and they all check good, re-soldered, used my big glass looking for bridges or splashes, nothing. Did change one pico on the G board and have 22 coming into the D board, heat sinks are not getting warm at all. Putting it down for the night.

Larry Dillon
what is the voltage on those

what is the voltage on those two yellow pico's by the heat sink? on both sides?

Charlie Chan
Got to get some type of

Got to get some type of extension to get under the heat sink to measure, I'm looking...

Charlie Chan
I have +/- 22 coming off the

I have +/- 22 coming off the G board. 0 volts on either side of the picos on the D board.

Charlie Chan
Also can't find a good

Also can't find a good schematic for the D board, found the board layout and block diagram, but not a good schematic for troubleshooting. Is it in the download? thanks Larry.

Larry Dillon
look for the chassis number

look for the chassis number on the other manuals some are the same thing

Charlie Chan
But I am getting 22+/- out of

But I am getting 22+/- out of the G board and 22+/- at connector 8013 on the D board, then I lose my 22V. Pulling my hair out here, re-checked the pico's on the D board, and the G board, all show to be good. HELP!!!!!

Charlie Chan
Re-solder and cleaned the

Re-solder and cleaned the 8013 connector, now have 22+/- at the IC, but still bowing. Green major bowing at bottom and top, Red not centered lines are pretty straight, blue not centered bowing at bottom and top. time for a new D board me thinks.

Pages

 

Connect With Techlore