Thanks for the response and the manual and I read the articles you referenced. I checked the 7 fuses on the D and the 2 on the G boards and they appear to be good. I did check them in place though with a multimeter and there was mention that in place testing is acceptable but please confirm. I'll get the 2 stk392-570 at mcmonline and silicone heatsink compound to install and try.
After about 8 months of watching TV on an old 25" TV, I finally have my 43" rear projection back!
The model I own is a KP-43HT20, which from my experiance here is very similar to the rest of the models that have been mentioned in this thread.
Anyway, before ordering the parts I decided to try and find the IC's and remove them, there wasnt much point in ordering the parts if I was going to mess up the board or something. Anyway, I had no problem removing the IC's with the soldering wick. Right after that I ordered my IC's (which I made sure where actual Sanyo IC's). While waiting for the parts to com in the mail I used my multi-meter to check all the proper fuses on both the D board as well as the G board. I found one bad 5 amp Pico fuse was bad on the G board. Luckily I was able to find a local (Minneapolis) TV repair company that would sell me the fuse for only $1 (which later I found was suppose to be more). So I replaced the one bad pico fuse, and eagerly awaited the new IC's to come in the mail.
Finally, When I checked the mail on friday I got the package with 2 new IC's. I put the silicone thermal compound (from radio shack) on both IC's and attached them back to the 2 heatsinks. I proceeded to solder both IC's to the board, let all solders cool and reinstalled the D board and G board. When I turned the TV on nothing had changed. I was crushed but then remembered that this could happen. Pulled the boards back out, checked my fuses again, All were still good. So I reinstalled the board again and decided to try the PJE adjustment. After working with that for a while I realized that my blue was converged and I was able to adjust it. Found that my green was still out of wack but I was able to do a vertical adjustment but not a horizontal adjustment...And red..well red didnt move at all and was way out of wack. I then looked at the D board schematics and found that the IC on 8002 controlled blue and half of green and 8001 runs the other half of green and all of red. Only thing I could figure was that my solders where bad on the IC for 8001. I pulled the board, unsoldered...resoldered...and reinstalled the D board. I hit power and the set and to my suprise all the colors where straight!!! but not lined up!
Back to PJE, realigned the blue and red to match the green, saved it to all mode and now my set is working as good as day one! I finally get to watch my Direct TV in HD!!!
Thank you very much to Larry for all his help as well as all the people that came back to report how thier experiance went with this. It was a combination of all of the posts on here that got my TV to working and saving me a few hundred dollars for repair or a thousand for a new one!
I wish all of you the best of luck if you do choose to do this repair yourself. And just so you know, typically you wont need the repair manual for this repair as it does not tell you how to do the repair. It did help me to figure out how to do the alignment in PJE and resolve my problem after the first attempt, but I dont think most people will run into this kind of scenario.
I have had my Set for three years, luckily my convergence is great, but it has developed a electrical short that keeps snapping, I was wandering if I could beg the service manual from you and any advice you may have on what may be the cause of such a phenomenon.
Snapping is an arc from one of the three picture tubes. you can try to put silicon sealant on the tube that is arching but that usually will not work, you usually end up replacing the picture tube.
Larry and zapdbf, I have to really thank you both for all of your help with this repair! I, in no way, could have done this without your help. As has been mentioned before, you are really helping a lot of people save a lot of money by helping them do their own repairs. Thanks so much.
What I needed to do was replace a fuse that had shorted on the G board. While checking everything on the D board, I had no idea to even check the G. I ordered a replacement fuse online, replaced it, and boom, everything looks great!!
However, there is just a small concern that I've noticed. This may have been issue before the IC's busted but I'm not sure. After repairing the TV last night, I did a FLASH FOCUS and the picture really sharpened up. But by tonight, I noticed that the reds seem to have come out of line. It seems mostly apparent in the lower half of the screen, on the right side only.
Have you seen this happen? What should I do to permanently and completely converge the set?
Larry Dillon said: I do not have that manual for the KP46WT510. That is a RA-6A chassis. I do have the RA6 manual if you want to have a look at it.
Thanks for reply, Larry. I've ordered the 2 stk ics after I've checked all 6 pico fuses & resoldered both 2 stk ics and did not resolve the convergence problem.
zapdbf told me that there aren't much to troubleshoot on the D board, so I guess I'll wait until I've received the replacement parts.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their input on this thread! Especially Larry, Pokester, Bruce76 and zapdbf for your hints and suggestions that made my work a breeze.
I have a Sony KP-51WS510 that went wonky one morning with 3D looking effects for all colors and red convergence that bowed down from the left on the top and bottom. After reading this entire thread and zapdbf's Sony Convergence Repair article I was all set. After carefully removing the highvoltage connections from the distribution and focus blocks I was able to get the G and D boards out. All of my pico fuses were good, so I resoldered the STK chips and put it back together. It worked!
Thanks again for making this such a great forum.
PS - If anyone has a service manual for my TV I would love a copy!
Larry, on my sony kp-46wt500, I replaced the 2 stk and replaced 2 fuses on the G board and it now is ok at the center but the convergence is bowed top/bottom/sides and I can't seem to adjust per the directions........any ideas on where to check from here?
rm954 said: Larry, on my sony kp-46wt500, I replaced the 2 stk and replaced 2 fuses on the G board and it now is ok at the center but the convergence is bowed top/bottom/sides and I can't seem to adjust per the directions........any ideas on where to check from here? Rod
Have you checked to see if the green, red, and Blude are all aligned or if one is working and other other 2 are not? Sounds somewhat similar to the problem I had when I first did my repair. Go into the PEM screen and bring up the grid. Then place something over 2 of the lenses leaving only one projecting. Do this for each of the colors and you will see which ones are working which ones are not.
In my situation both green and red were not working but blue was fine. After a little research I found that one of the IC's contols the blue, one controls the red, and both control green. I then resoldered the IC that controled the Red and Green and bingo, got it working.
Hope this helps, good luck! Let us know how hit goes.
MY SONY KP46wt500 rpv tv just recenty shows a yellow/greenish line down the right side. There is also green and purple ghostlike borders on the images. Is this convergence? Should I get the two convergence IC's before doing anything. Also how can I get a copy of the service manual?
I checked and there is supposed to be 135 v out of G board and there isn't......the fuse is good at the plug input (6.3amp 125v)........any ideas what may be out?
AJAX, yes this does sound like you have a convergence problem. Before you do anything, I think it would be a good idea that you familiarize yourself with the repair and adjustment procedure. I am going to leave you with two great links that will describe both in detail. Good Luck with your repair.
Rod, if there is not any voltage coming out of the G board, how is the set working. You stated that the picture was still bowed and the colors were not lining up. Did you check the pico fuses on the G and the D board. This would cause your problem of the set not working after you replaced the convergence IC's. Did you not read up on the procedure of the IC replacement and the alignment before you proceeded with the IC replacement? I will send the links to you, as this is very important to know where your going before you start out. Good luck
Larry, the set was as noted above so I went back and checked the +22v and -22v and 135v circuits and found 135v and -22v ok but no +22v so I replaced the G pico fuse 5002 for the +22v. When soldering the pico in, the set was unplugged but some solder wire must have bridged to an adjacent solder and heard a snap. Plugged it in and no 135v power so replaced the 6.3 amp fuse at plug in but still no power. So any ideas on what to check next?
Oh geez. You blew out the power supply man. That's why you are suppose to double and triple check your work. You unfortainaly turned an easy repair into ma hard repair. Get out your meter and start checking the transistors and diodes in the circuit. It really depends on what you shorted the 22 volt line too? It could be the regulator IC? It could be a blown diode. This will take some troubleshooting on your part I'm afraid.
I just checked through all my pico fuses and all of them were fine, is it uncommon for the convergence IC's to malfunction without blowing any of the fuses?
It can happen but it is rare, at least for me. Most of the time there is at least one blown pico on the main D board and also on the G board. Make sure you check those on the G board as well.
Lazzybonez, if the convergence went out on your set and you cannot adjust it from the CUSTOMER controls, there is a problem in the convergence correction Amp circuit. I would say, replace the convergence IC's first, then do the alignment. There are a couple of links I will send you so you can see how all this is done. Going into the service menu and trying to fix a problem with alignments could not only mess up your set, but when the problem is repaired, it could make the alignment or repair almost impossible to get back to where it should be without extensive labor. The service menu is ONLY there to do minor touch-ups, not any major changes. All the alignments done by the customer should be done by the customer controls only! If the set is working properly and set up correctly, this is all the customer needs. Good Luck with your problem, and read the links I am sending you first.
I just finished installing the new convergence IC's successfully. The picture is now better than before, but is still not aligned. The colours are no longer arching across the screen, but now one of the colours will appear a couple cm below where it should be.
I have checked and rechecked all the picofuses, none were blown by the way. There is nothing visually wrong with any of the resistors around the IC's, but i will check those as well.
The flash focus button previously did nothing before replacing the IC's, however the function appears to work, and successfully aligns the crosshair, but does not change anything after completing.
Im guessing that now i have to use the service menu to manually converge all the colours? I read http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/ , but wasn't able change anything in the options. Maybe I was doing it wrong, or the procedure doesnt apply for my TV model.
I have a KP-53HS30, could you send me the service manual so I can try the convergence procedure from there? I have already installed the pando software, and my e-mail address is [email protected]
Thanks for all the posts on this site, it has been a huge help so far, and i feel like im close to finally finishing this.
I fixed it! After getting the service manual i was able to fix the convergence within 15 or 20 minutes.
In the PJE mode i just had to change the BLU CENT to the right number, and it fixed the picture completely, and it looks great.
Did the whole thing for about 80$, and that included buying heat sink, a desoldering bulb and the IC's, which i wasted 20$ on from import charges since it had to cross the border. A repair company that I called said it would cost close to $400 for them to fix it, with no guarantees that they would be able to even fix it.
All your help was greatly appreciated, everything i did i learned from this site, saved a ton of money, and have a great looking TV. Thanks!
After reading the post with convergence problems I have come to the conclusion that I also have a convergence issue with my sony rear proj set...my question is: where to purchase the ic's and fuses needed for repair...any help would be greatly appreciated
Rod, make sure you read the articles I am posting here for you. I am also sending you the Sony factory service manual. Good Luck with the repair.
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/
Larry,
Thanks for the response and the manual and I read the articles you referenced. I checked the 7 fuses on the D and the 2 on the G boards and they appear to be good. I did check them in place though with a multimeter and there was mention that in place testing is acceptable but please confirm. I'll get the 2 stk392-570 at mcmonline and silicone heatsink compound to install and try.
Rod
Rod, yes you can test those fuses in the board. They should all measure a short across them. Let us know how you make out with this repair. Good Luck
After about 8 months of watching TV on an old 25" TV, I finally have my 43" rear projection back!
The model I own is a KP-43HT20, which from my experiance here is very similar to the rest of the models that have been mentioned in this thread.
Anyway, before ordering the parts I decided to try and find the IC's and remove them, there wasnt much point in ordering the parts if I was going to mess up the board or something. Anyway, I had no problem removing the IC's with the soldering wick. Right after that I ordered my IC's (which I made sure where actual Sanyo IC's). While waiting for the parts to com in the mail I used my multi-meter to check all the proper fuses on both the D board as well as the G board. I found one bad 5 amp Pico fuse was bad on the G board. Luckily I was able to find a local (Minneapolis) TV repair company that would sell me the fuse for only $1 (which later I found was suppose to be more). So I replaced the one bad pico fuse, and eagerly awaited the new IC's to come in the mail.
Finally, When I checked the mail on friday I got the package with 2 new IC's. I put the silicone thermal compound (from radio shack) on both IC's and attached them back to the 2 heatsinks. I proceeded to solder both IC's to the board, let all solders cool and reinstalled the D board and G board. When I turned the TV on nothing had changed. I was crushed but then remembered that this could happen. Pulled the boards back out, checked my fuses again, All were still good. So I reinstalled the board again and decided to try the PJE adjustment. After working with that for a while I realized that my blue was converged and I was able to adjust it. Found that my green was still out of wack but I was able to do a vertical adjustment but not a horizontal adjustment...And red..well red didnt move at all and was way out of wack.
I then looked at the D board schematics and found that the IC on 8002 controlled blue and half of green and 8001 runs the other half of green and all of red. Only thing I could figure was that my solders where bad on the IC for 8001. I pulled the board, unsoldered...resoldered...and reinstalled the D board. I hit power and the set and to my suprise all the colors where straight!!! but not lined up!
Back to PJE, realigned the blue and red to match the green, saved it to all mode and now my set is working as good as day one! I finally get to watch my Direct TV in HD!!!
Thank you very much to Larry for all his help as well as all the people that came back to report how thier experiance went with this. It was a combination of all of the posts on here that got my TV to working and saving me a few hundred dollars for repair or a thousand for a new one!
I wish all of you the best of luck if you do choose to do this repair yourself. And just so you know, typically you wont need the repair manual for this repair as it does not tell you how to do the repair. It did help me to figure out how to do the alignment in PJE and resolve my problem after the first attempt, but I dont think most people will run into this kind of scenario.
Thanks again,
Dan
Thanks Dan! Glad you got your TV set working, and thanks for letting us know how things turned out.
Larry
I have had my Set for three years, luckily my convergence is great, but it has developed a electrical short that keeps snapping, I was wandering if I could beg the service manual from you and any advice you may have on what may be the cause of such a phenomenon.
Email. [email protected]
Snapping is an arc from one of the three picture tubes. you can try to put silicon sealant on the tube that is arching but that usually will not work, you usually end up replacing the picture tube.
Hi Larry,
I've just started to troubleshoot my 3 years old Sony KP-46WT510 TV convergence problem
and I'm looking for the schematic diagrams to work with. Could you please send me a copy
of the service manual, if possible, to me? My email address is [email protected] and I've
installed pando as mentioned in your reply to other previous requests.
Thanks,
Don
I do not have that manual for the KP46WT510. That is a RA-6A chassis. I do have the RA6 manual if you want to have a look at it.
It works, my tv works!!
Larry and zapdbf, I have to really thank you both for all of your help with this repair! I, in no way, could have done this without your help. As has been mentioned before, you are really helping a lot of people save a lot of money by helping them do their own repairs. Thanks so much.
What I needed to do was replace a fuse that had shorted on the G board. While checking everything on the D board, I had no idea to even check the G. I ordered a replacement fuse online, replaced it, and boom, everything looks great!!
However, there is just a small concern that I've noticed. This may have been issue before the IC's busted but I'm not sure. After repairing the TV last night, I did a FLASH FOCUS and the picture really sharpened up. But by tonight, I noticed that the reds seem to have come out of line. It seems mostly apparent in the lower half of the screen, on the right side only.
Have you seen this happen? What should I do to permanently and completely converge the set?
Many thanks again for all your patient advice,
Brian
Thanks for reply, Larry. I've ordered the 2 stk ics after I've checked all 6 pico fuses & resoldered both 2 stk ics and did not resolve the convergence problem.
zapdbf told me that there aren't much to troubleshoot on the D board, so I guess I'll wait until I've received the replacement parts.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their input on this thread! Especially Larry, Pokester, Bruce76 and zapdbf for your hints and suggestions that made my work a breeze.
I have a Sony KP-51WS510 that went wonky one morning with 3D looking effects for all colors and red convergence that bowed down from the left on the top and bottom. After reading this entire thread and zapdbf's Sony Convergence Repair article I was all set. After carefully removing the highvoltage connections from the distribution and focus blocks I was able to get the G and D boards out. All of my pico fuses were good, so I resoldered the STK chips and put it back together. It worked!
Thanks again for making this such a great forum.
PS - If anyone has a service manual for my TV I would love a copy!
Larry, on my sony kp-46wt500, I replaced the 2 stk and replaced 2 fuses on the G board and it now is ok at the center but the convergence is bowed top/bottom/sides and I can't seem to adjust per the directions........any ideas on where to check from here?
Rod
Have you checked to see if the green, red, and Blude are all aligned or if one is working and other other 2 are not? Sounds somewhat similar to the problem I had when I first did my repair. Go into the PEM screen and bring up the grid. Then place something over 2 of the lenses leaving only one projecting. Do this for each of the colors and you will see which ones are working which ones are not.
In my situation both green and red were not working but blue was fine. After a little research I found that one of the IC's contols the blue, one controls the red, and both control green. I then resoldered the IC that controled the Red and Green and bingo, got it working.
Hope this helps, good luck! Let us know how hit goes.
MY SONY KP46wt500 rpv tv just recenty shows a yellow/greenish line down the right side. There is also green and purple ghostlike borders on the images. Is this convergence? Should I get the two convergence IC's before doing anything. Also how can I get a copy of the service manual?
Larry,
I checked and there is supposed to be 135 v out of G board and there isn't......the fuse is good at the plug input (6.3amp 125v)........any ideas what may be out?
Rod
AJAX, yes this does sound like you have a convergence problem. Before you do anything, I think it would be a good idea that you familiarize yourself with the repair and adjustment procedure. I am going to leave you with two great links that will describe both in detail. Good Luck with your repair.
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/
Rod, if there is not any voltage coming out of the G board, how is the set working. You stated that the picture was still bowed and the colors were not lining up. Did you check the pico fuses on the G and the D board. This would cause your problem of the set not working after you replaced the convergence IC's. Did you not read up on the procedure of the IC replacement and the alignment before you proceeded with the IC replacement? I will send the links to you, as this is very important to know where your going before you start out. Good luck
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/18970/Sony-KP-46WT500-Convergence-Repair/;jsessionid=2253C47E650D4B4EA4457FA297768BB0?page=6#27349
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
Larry, the set was as noted above so I went back and checked the +22v and -22v and 135v circuits and found 135v and -22v ok but no +22v so I replaced the G pico fuse 5002 for the +22v. When soldering the pico in, the set was unplugged but some solder wire must have bridged to an adjacent solder and heard a snap. Plugged it in and no 135v power so replaced the 6.3 amp fuse at plug in but still no power. So any ideas on what to check next?
Rod
Oh geez. You blew out the power supply man. That's why you are suppose to double and triple check your work. You unfortainaly turned an easy repair into ma hard repair. Get out your meter and start checking the transistors and diodes in the circuit. It really depends on what you shorted the 22 volt line too? It could be the regulator IC? It could be a blown diode. This will take some troubleshooting on your part I'm afraid.
I just checked through all my pico fuses and all of them were fine, is it uncommon for the convergence IC's to malfunction without blowing any of the fuses?
Bryan
It can happen but it is rare, at least for me. Most of the time there is at least one blown pico on the main D board and also on the G board. Make sure you check those on the G board as well.
Larry,
I'm in Canada and I'm having a hard time sorcing the stk's. Can you recommend a US supplier that Ican get the ic's and picos from?
I am having trouble getting the convergence settings adjusted on my TV, could someone please send me the service manual? [email protected]
Thanks :-)
AJAX, try HERE. They have original IC's, not any aftermarket IC's or factory reject IC's. And they ship right from Canada as well. Good Luck
Lazzybonez, if the convergence went out on your set and you cannot adjust it from the CUSTOMER controls, there is a problem in the convergence correction Amp circuit. I would say, replace the convergence IC's first, then do the alignment. There are a couple of links I will send you so you can see how all this is done. Going into the service menu and trying to fix a problem with alignments could not only mess up your set, but when the problem is repaired, it could make the alignment or repair almost impossible to get back to where it should be without extensive labor. The service menu is ONLY there to do minor touch-ups, not any major changes. All the alignments done by the customer should be done by the customer controls only! If the set is working properly and set up correctly, this is all the customer needs. Good Luck with your problem, and read the links I am sending you first.
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/
Larry,
I just finished installing the new convergence IC's successfully. The picture is now better than before, but is still not aligned. The colours are no longer arching across the screen, but now one of the colours will appear a couple cm below where it should be.
I have checked and rechecked all the picofuses, none were blown by the way. There is nothing visually wrong with any of the resistors around the IC's, but i will check those as well.
The flash focus button previously did nothing before replacing the IC's, however the function appears to work, and successfully aligns the crosshair, but does not change anything after completing.
Im guessing that now i have to use the service menu to manually converge all the colours? I read http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/ , but wasn't able change anything in the options. Maybe I was doing it wrong, or the procedure doesnt apply for my TV model.
I have a KP-53HS30, could you send me the service manual so I can try the convergence procedure from there? I have already installed the pando software, and my e-mail address is [email protected]
Thanks for all the posts on this site, it has been a huge help so far, and i feel like im close to finally finishing this.
Bryan
Larry,
I fixed it! After getting the service manual i was able to fix the convergence within 15 or 20 minutes.
In the PJE mode i just had to change the BLU CENT to the right number, and it fixed the picture completely, and it looks great.
Did the whole thing for about 80$, and that included buying heat sink, a desoldering bulb and the IC's, which i wasted 20$ on from import charges since it had to cross the border. A repair company that I called said it would cost close to $400 for them to fix it, with no guarantees that they would be able to even fix it.
All your help was greatly appreciated, everything i did i learned from this site, saved a ton of money, and have a great looking TV. Thanks!
Bryan
Glad to hear that we could help you Bryan! Feels really good to save a lot of cash, does it not? LOL
After reading the post with convergence problems I have come to the conclusion that I also have a convergence issue with my sony rear proj set...my question is: where to purchase the ic's and fuses needed for repair...any help would be greatly appreciated
Pages