meyco said: Any one have the documentation that Larry Dillon spoke of? It seems a lot of people need this, but I have had no response from Larry or anyone else. Does anyone have the subject document that could send to me? Send to [email protected]. Thanks
Larry,
your a popular person. Could you send my that info i have a blinking green timer light ([email protected]) thanks for the help I do appreciate it .
WD52525
I just got my parents 52525 to try to fix. I have heard good feed back for your fix... are you able to send me the information about the blinking green light.
Hey Larry, I have a Mitsubishi WD-62525 with the GREEN BLINKING LIGHT OF DEATH!!!!(cring, sob, etc...) As usual I would very much appreciate it if you would pass on the golden goblet of knowledge (instructions, p/n, etc.) so I can hopefully fix my P.O.S. tv. Thanks in advance, Mike. e-mail: [email protected]
Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.
From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:
After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.
These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013
I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.
Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)
Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.
I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.
I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL
I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.
I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:
You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:
With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/ Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)
I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.
I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.
I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.
I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.
A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.
Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.
Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.
Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-62525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance.
After 6 good years of service, my WD52525 now has that blinking green timer light. Larry, can you send me the information you've sent others on how to fix this?
I am in the midst of repairing a 52725. I got the blinking light to stop and the TV powers up, but I have the black and white rectangle problem. Is there any information regarding that fix? Please email me at [email protected].
Yeah I got the blinking green light to go away too, now I am battling a TV will power down Check air flow problem, I am trying to figure out if it is something the same or new.... Anyone have that happen after they fixed the blinking green light?
I read that if there is no input to the TV, it will power down to conserve energy. Mine is doing the same thing. If I can get rid of my rectangles, maybe I can get an input signal and it won't power down anymore
i got the same tv but its got a yellow flashing light i hear a click frome relay but i went to go look for bulb and its gone not just the balb it gone the the bulb holder is goneto plzz help if i get a new lamp and balice u think id work??
Had all power supply caps replaced by tech. Set(WD-52525) worked until bulb blew. Status LED blinked. 3.3 volt supply went dead. Fixed that myself. Power LED now blinks to show in boot mode. Never leaves this state. DM board caps ok, 3.3V power okay. What else causes por-2 and power to stay off? Are there any complete schematics showing all parts? Block diagram shows por comes from K3 signal board. What next?
Did the unplug 6,12 volt trick from FMT board. Got my 52525 to power up. Got red screen for 30 sec and set disabled POR-2. Power LED stayed on even though lamp and fans went off. Pushed power button, LED went off, checked for codes and got 12. Set thinks it is okay.POR-2 comes from signal board. Caps bad here also?? Or is there something else causing the power to shut off while the set thinks it is on? NO signal input but set should be blue and shut down in 1 minute with message on screen.
did you check the capacitors on the FMT Board look at them thesec might lookmswollen FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be weak from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 1 to 2 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. For this infor,ation and it takes a lot of my time to send these things as well as monitor the post for replies and additional questions
Larry, I have a WD-62627 that gives me a fast blinking green timer LED only when I press the SYSTEM RESET button. The set will not power-up and pressing DEVICE and MENU buttons together for 5 seconds does not yield any codes (nothing happens).
Before the TV failed, I was getting NetCommand setup window nearly every time I powered-on the TV. No matter how I setup NetCommand or whether I canceled setup, it would return 3 out of 4 times upon power-up. Maybe this indicates another problem? If so, please advise.
There were a couple a times I was able to get a picture since it failed, but it only lasted 20 or 30 seconds before I'd loose picture.
Please send any info/ideas you have to bigdog8302 at hotmail dot com. Thank in advance!
Mitsubishi WD-52525 ,The blinking green will not reset ,TV will not come on for 2-3 days after a power lost ,Now tv will not come on at all ,Try reseting, Green just blinks,How can I fix it and where can i buy parts like capicitors if needed ,Does anyone have pictures for repairs.(Please Help)...
Hey Larry, I also could use these pictures/documents for the flashing green light. With this many people and same problem there should be a recall/class action lawsuit against Mitsubishi... Thanks for your help.
I having the same blinking green light trouble.Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-52525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance.
I having the same blinking green light trouble.Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-52525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance. I have the owner and Service Manual for this model.
Hi Larry it seems like Im having the same blinking green light problem, could you please send me the documentation?? Id really aprecciate it! my tv is a Mitsubishi 52525
hey larry i dont know if you still have the repair guide but if you do please send it to me ... i found one of these tvs the other day and i would love to repair it. thanks in advanced.... ps do i have replace the bulb or just caps ...green blinking light
hey larry, my parents have a Mit WD-62627 and its got the blinking green light upon plugging it in followed by nothing. i gutted it recently w/out any documents or schematics and realized its a little more difficult than finding a huge burnt up fuse i can just pull out and replace. i have experience with electronics so i was wondering if you could share some schematics or troubleshooting guides to help me along. my email is [email protected]. just tryin to save my folks a lot of money and prove i'm worth a damn. appreciate it larry.
Correct me if I'm wrong; this thread includes every instruction, every link, links to the manuals, and links to every photo you need to repair the blinking light problem. So why does everyone keep asking you to send them the repair guide for this fix? I asked you to send it to me several years ago, several times, and never got a reply. If there is a repair guide of some sort, why not just post a link to it for everyone to use. This has got to be the longest running thread in history.
...I know I'm a couple years late on this thread, but if you've still got the instructions, I could use them...I've already got the new caps. [email protected] thanks!
IF someone send u the doc can u send them 2 me [email protected]
Larry,
your a popular person. Could you send my that info i have a blinking green timer light ([email protected]) thanks for the help I do appreciate it .
WD52525
Try this link. Also best to use 35V caps not the 10V or 16V as in the originals. The PW board is very easy compared to the DM board in the WD series.
I wish I was a lawyer. This is class action or at least recall worthy.
Larry,
I just got my parents 52525 to try to fix. I have heard good feed back for your fix... are you able to send me the information about the blinking green light.
Thanx
Eric
[email protected]
Hey Larry, I have a Mitsubishi WD-62525 with the GREEN BLINKING LIGHT OF DEATH!!!!(cring, sob, etc...) As usual I would very much appreciate it if you would pass on the golden goblet of knowledge (instructions, p/n, etc.) so I can hopefully fix my P.O.S. tv. Thanks in advance, Mike. e-mail: [email protected]
Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.
From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:
V26 Chassis Manual:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6MKC3A3V
File Name: "V26 - Chassis Replacment.pdf"
There is another post that references a service manual that I did not use but may help:
Post #4539
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11287117#post11287117
After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.
These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013
I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.
Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)
Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.
I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.
I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL
I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.
I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:
Post #5837 for FMT Connector hack
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14843576#post14843576
Post #5226 for FC Connector info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12765118#post12765118
You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:
Post #5936
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064509#post15064509
or
Post #5937
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064780#post15064780
With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/ Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)
I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.
I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.
Refer to this picture of the FMT board if you have the same one as me:
Format Board:
http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=formatpk2.jpg
I found that picture from this post:
Post #5261 for pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12792395#post12792395
I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.
I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.
A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.
Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.
Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.
Hello Larry,
Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-62525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance.
[email protected]
After 6 good years of service, my WD52525 now has that blinking green timer light. Larry, can you send me the information you've sent others on how to fix this?
[email protected]
thanks!
I am in the midst of repairing a 52725. I got the blinking light to stop and the TV powers up, but I have the black and white rectangle problem. Is there any information regarding that fix? Please email me at [email protected].
Yeah I got the blinking green light to go away too, now I am battling a TV will power down Check air flow problem, I am trying to figure out if it is something the same or new.... Anyone have that happen after they fixed the blinking green light?
Hey Larry, plz send any info on the GBLOD. I have a Mitsu WD-62525 that is only 1.5 years old. My e-mail is [email protected]. Thanks in advance.
I read that if there is no input to the TV, it will power down to conserve energy. Mine is doing the same thing. If I can get rid of my rectangles, maybe I can get an input signal and it won't power down anymore
i got the same tv but its got a yellow flashing light i hear a click frome relay but i went to go look for bulb and its gone not just the balb it gone the the bulb holder is goneto plzz help if i get a new lamp and balice u think id work??
is it broken up in peices orb what?
Larry D.
i have a 62525. could you please send me the info on replacing the caps. thanks alot. james [email protected]
Had all power supply caps replaced by tech. Set(WD-52525) worked until bulb blew. Status LED blinked. 3.3 volt supply went dead. Fixed that myself. Power LED now blinks to show in boot mode. Never leaves this state. DM board caps ok, 3.3V power okay. What else causes por-2 and power to stay off? Are there any complete schematics showing all parts? Block diagram shows por comes from K3 signal board. What next?
there are several caps that need to be replaced on that set all at the same time. if i am not mistaking the post is in the technicians corner
Did the unplug 6,12 volt trick from FMT board. Got my 52525 to power up. Got red screen for 30 sec and set disabled POR-2. Power LED stayed on even though lamp and fans went off. Pushed power button, LED went off, checked for codes and got 12. Set thinks it is okay.POR-2 comes from signal board. Caps bad here also?? Or is there something else causing the power to shut off while the set thinks it is on? NO signal input but set should be blue and shut down in 1 minute with message on screen.
did you check the capacitors on the FMT Board look at them thesec might lookmswollen FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be weak from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 1 to 2 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. For this infor,ation and it takes a lot of my time to send these things as well as monitor the post for replies and additional questions
Larry, I have a WD-62627 that gives me a fast blinking green timer LED only when I press the SYSTEM RESET button. The set will not power-up and pressing DEVICE and MENU buttons together for 5 seconds does not yield any codes (nothing happens).
Before the TV failed, I was getting NetCommand setup window nearly every time I powered-on the TV. No matter how I setup NetCommand or whether I canceled setup, it would return 3 out of 4 times upon power-up. Maybe this indicates another problem? If so, please advise.
There were a couple a times I was able to get a picture since it failed, but it only lasted 20 or 30 seconds before I'd loose picture.
Please send any info/ideas you have to bigdog8302 at hotmail dot com. Thank in advance!
Ron
Mitsubishi WD-52525 ,The blinking green will not reset ,TV will not come on for 2-3 days after a power lost ,Now tv will not come on at all ,Try reseting, Green just blinks,How can I fix it and where can i buy parts like capicitors if needed ,Does anyone have pictures for repairs.(Please Help)...
Hey Larry, I also could use these pictures/documents for the flashing green light. With this many people and same problem there should be a recall/class action lawsuit against Mitsubishi... Thanks for your help.
I having the same blinking green light trouble.Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-52525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance.
Thak you sooooo muchhhhhh!!!
I having the same blinking green light trouble.Could you be so kind as to also send me the instructions on ending the perpetual blinking green light on my WD-52525. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time and assistance. I have the owner and Service Manual for this model.
Thak you sooooo muchhhhhh!!!
My email is
[email protected]
Hi Larry it seems like Im having the same blinking green light problem, could you please send me the documentation?? Id really aprecciate it! my tv is a Mitsubishi 52525
[email protected]
hey larry i dont know if you still have the repair guide but if you do please send it to me ... i found one of these tvs the other day and i would love to repair it. thanks in advanced.... ps do i have replace the bulb or just caps ...green blinking light
[email protected]
hey larry, my parents have a Mit WD-62627 and its got the blinking green light upon plugging it in followed by nothing. i gutted it recently w/out any documents or schematics and realized its a little more difficult than finding a huge burnt up fuse i can just pull out and replace. i have experience with electronics so i was wondering if you could share some schematics or troubleshooting guides to help me along. my email is [email protected]. just tryin to save my folks a lot of money and prove i'm worth a damn. appreciate it larry.
Larry,
Correct me if I'm wrong; this thread includes every instruction, every link, links to the manuals, and links to every photo you need to repair the blinking light problem. So why does everyone keep asking you to send them the repair guide for this fix? I asked you to send it to me several years ago, several times, and never got a reply. If there is a repair guide of some sort, why not just post a link to it for everyone to use. This has got to be the longest running thread in history.
meyco,
I agree. Tired for waiting for an answer, I'm going to bring my TV to a tech who does board level repairs.
...I know I'm a couple years late on this thread, but if you've still got the instructions, I could use them...I've already got the new caps. [email protected] thanks!
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