mxxmikexx said: where did you find online tech support on their site? i just found email tech support?
If you select the model TV you have, then an orange Live Chat button should appear on the page to the right of the TV picture. Simply click on the button, and a small window will open to start the chat.
The engineer(s) who invented DLP projection Tv should be taken to court for
making a faulty designed TV.
The lamp , let alone other problems, in all DLP tv's needs to be replaced between 2000 to 5000 hours. In my Samsung 50 inch TV every 2000 hours!
In three years I changed the lamp 2 times for a cost of $300. And recently again
I got 3 blinking light where the TV turns off after 5 minutes. Perhaps this time
is not the lamp since i changed it about 6 months ago !?
So in time, one would pay much more than the cost of TV, let alone the headache.
I have given up on this TV and will have to junk it after 3 years usage.
Will consider buying and LCD TV.
All DLP tv's should be recalled and the engineer(s) in charge put in jail.
Wow! I just got back from a deployment and really looked forward to my 50 inch practically new SAMSUNG TV. I have the HLR5067W DLP model and when I got home my wife explained to me that it now has a mind of it's own. It does all the things explained in the above forum except turn on for any amount of time. This picture was awesome and I couldn't wait to get home and watch some football on it. After reading how much it will cost to fix it my wife wants to through it out! Now, I will just have to go back to my 27
My 50 inch Samsung DLP started shutting off intermitently, to which I lucked out and found online that the contacts to the lamp door get dusy and lose connection causing it to shut off. So every time it does that I loosen and tighten the screw. voila...nowww the thing does what you guys are describing: picture comes up freezes then goes black, Tv still on (though no sound) can't turn it off, have to unplug it then may or may not come back on. Am I correct in deducing that no one with these symptoms has actually fixed it even though every described component has been replaced? btw it is a hl-S5086w
i couldnt be that lucky to have a dirty/dusty switch on the lamp door, i already tried that. from everyone that i've talked to so far its looking like my problem is either the color wheel (which is weird because it never makes any screaching noises like everyone describes when it is going bad) or ive been told it could be my digital board. My main problem is that it is such an intermitent problem that it would be VERY hard to diagnose.
I am having an issue where my hlrw5067w will not turn on. The lamp comes on but the picture doesn't. I get the lamp indicator on the front blinking and it shuts the lamp off after 45 secs. A month before this started i got a check fan number 3 box on the tv. I ordered and recieved a new lamp put it in today still not coming on. I can hear the fan working when it comes on so i know it works. So i am thinking my next step is to replace the fan mainly because i can't afford to try anything else. Any information on how to replace a fan or a close up picture of the fan directly behind the lamp. I am really trying to get a good pic of the wires leading into the motor.
I have a samsung HL-R5067W DLP TV. I bought this over three years a go. In past 6 months, I have noticing that the picture freezes and then blacks out for a few seconds before it comes back. It is becoming to be very anoying. I thought it was my COMCAST cable box, however the problem continues even after I replaced the box. Any thoughts?
i have a 'viore' 50 inch dlp... some of these were made by akai.. and some by samsung.. just so happens mine is made by samsung... IT IS THE THERMOSTAT LOCATED ABOVE THE BULB!!! .. it can either be bad.. or the fan BEHIND the bulb isnt performing optimumly.. i had mine all apart.. was nasty.. i cleaned it all out.. it worked FLAWLESSLY for about 2 weeks.. then started again.. leading me to believe the thermostat is bad.. when i cleaned the fan.. i had better air flow.. thus keeping it a bit cooler.. now it dont matter.. the thermostat is shot.. i will be replacing it soon.. this is an OVERHEATING problem on the bulb.. its a safeguard to keep from blowing the bulb.. or starting a fire..
What you are saying sounds logical. Do I need to have the repair manual to open up the back of teh TV, or is it simple enough and just a matter of unscrewing the screws? Also, how do you actually clean the thermostat and the fan? Did you spray the dust remover or used a cloth or a brush?
When you say the thermostat is shot, what happens to your TV screen?
dave, the thermostat is directly above the bulb... you have to pull the cover off of the back... then pull the bulb... then pull the main cover over the whole bottom of the tv... there is a 'tray' that is secured by 2 or 3 screws .. it holds the bulb area.. and the projector assembly.. pull the whole tray out.. and you will see the thermostat.. it looks like the same kind that is put in a central heating unit for your house.. if it gets too hot.. it cuts power to the whole deal... the fan is also behind that.. you wont see the fan until you pull the tray out... i used compressed air in the can for this.. and got the rest of the tv as well.. hope this helps.. btw.. when mine goes out.. the whole thing shuts off and i get the blinking lights.. i turn it back on.. and it shuts back off .. this can happen repeatedly.. or not very often.. but its irritating as all get out
I have a 50" model. Bought it from Sears in 2005.
I think all possible causes listed above are not worth trying except for the thermostat and fan.
I will try it on mine and if it doesn't work, I'll go for a new LCD, no more DLP in my house...
One reason the thermostat and fan area goes messy is absense of the air filter inside the lamp cover. According to the manual it should one there. I couldn't find any air filter there, but that's funny, cuz you can buy this filter in a part store.
Dishdude... what kind of fan did you use?? make, model, where can we get them and is it a direct replacement or did you have to find a way to mount it? Have the same problems with my HL-S5086w, I just blew the dust out of the back like you did... working good now, sounds like the problem will come back soon though.
Not sure of the model.. i took the one out of the tv.. took it to radio shack.. and just matched it with size and voltage... i had to cut the connector off of my old fan.. to put on the new one.. just make sure you match polarity.. and dont use cheap electrical tape to do it.. cause the adhesive will melt and the tape will come off with the heat in the tv.. i shrinkwrapped mine
Guys, I have just had a Samsung service guy today and he fixed my 50" TV.
He replaced the digital box (aka digital control board assembly). He said these particular models (AX models) have this problem and everything else is fine - dmd, color wheel, power assebmly, etc.
The only problem is the replacement is expensive, i.e. the box costs around $400, but the service guy luckily had one with him that is probably not inventorized and we agreed on $200.
on my 5067 dlp i started having a funny problem today. everything is fine coming in to the hdmi and component video jacks. but the feeds going into the ntsc and atsc coax and the s-video, the picture is all screwed up. there are lines and blocks and colors. its kind of hard to explain. could the tuner need to be replaced? thanks for your help.
iamforquality..... the box costs 400 bucks.... but he 'luckily' had one for 200 only cuz its not inventoried... well dude.. thats theft from his company.. for starters.. and second off.. this guy seen you coming a mile away... not trying to be rude.. but use some common sense here.. i am for a deal.. but even a deal isnt all that if thats not whats wrong with it.. makes no sense to me
look at the voltage doubler capacitors on the power supply. this circuit provides the b-plus to the ballast. one of the capacitors has opened or changed value. this causes the ballast to not be able to stay on after striking the lamp.
Hey Everyone.. Just stumbled across this thread and makes me feel very lucky that I have gotten 3+ trouble free years out of my (refurbished) HL-P4663w, especially considering the amount of time that it is on (probably 40-50 hours per week)
However, this past week a loud buzzing sound has been coming out of the back of the TV, near the lamp assembly. From the descriptions I have read on this forum and my experience with computers; i believe that it is the fan and not the color wheel (not high pitched; and variable/intermittent--sometimes it's very loud, sometimes not)
Is this the type of repair that I can perform myself? I've built my own computers and what not, so i feel fairly comfortable taking apart electronics. Where can I get a replacement fan? Do I need the service manual?
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
lamp fan or color wheel bad.clor wheel is just left of lamp when viewed from rear of chassis and is inside the light tunnel so you can't see it. if fan bad, you can replace it. i don't advise attempting to replace the color wheel due to differing bearing types and setting for the dmd board.
I have a Samsung hlr56 rear projection tv. When the screen is on, white and green dots in two inch squares appear all over the screen and flash. I would appreciate hearing from anyone else who had a similar problem and what was the remedy.
Hi I have a samsung 55 in dlp. I had the 3 blinking light son and I replaced the bulb. It is working now but it seems to be very hot. I turned it off after about 10 mins becuase I can feel the heat if I hold my hand about 2 in from the side. Any suggestions. Also I can see the fan and it is running. The tv is 1 year old. Thanks
My best advise would be to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model it includes top grade Panasonic capacitors, easy to follow directions with pictures and free on-line tech assistance in case you run into a snag with the repair GOOD LUCK!!
If you select the model TV you have, then an orange Live Chat button should appear on the page to the right of the TV picture. Simply click on the button, and a small window will open to start the chat.
The engineer(s) who invented DLP projection Tv should be taken to court for
making a faulty designed TV.
The lamp , let alone other problems, in all DLP tv's needs to be replaced between 2000 to 5000 hours. In my Samsung 50 inch TV every 2000 hours!
In three years I changed the lamp 2 times for a cost of $300. And recently again
I got 3 blinking light where the TV turns off after 5 minutes. Perhaps this time
is not the lamp since i changed it about 6 months ago !?
So in time, one would pay much more than the cost of TV, let alone the headache.
I have given up on this TV and will have to junk it after 3 years usage.
Will consider buying and LCD TV.
All DLP tv's should be recalled and the engineer(s) in charge put in jail.
contact Samsung here good luck
& J International, Inc.
311 Route 46 W, Suite E
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Tel 800.627.4368
Fax 973.276.9078
Wow! I just got back from a deployment and really looked forward to my 50 inch practically new SAMSUNG TV. I have the HLR5067W DLP model and when I got home my wife explained to me that it now has a mind of it's own. It does all the things explained in the above forum except turn on for any amount of time. This picture was awesome and I couldn't wait to get home and watch some football on it. After reading how much it will cost to fix it my wife wants to through it out! Now, I will just have to go back to my 27
My 50 inch Samsung DLP started shutting off intermitently, to which I lucked out and found online that the contacts to the lamp door get dusy and lose connection causing it to shut off. So every time it does that I loosen and tighten the screw. voila...nowww the thing does what you guys are describing: picture comes up freezes then goes black, Tv still on (though no sound) can't turn it off, have to unplug it then may or may not come back on. Am I correct in deducing that no one with these symptoms has actually fixed it even though every described component has been replaced? btw it is a hl-S5086w
mark in pc:
i couldnt be that lucky to have a dirty/dusty switch on the lamp door, i already tried that. from everyone that i've talked to so far its looking like my problem is either the color wheel (which is weird because it never makes any screaching noises like everyone describes when it is going bad) or ive been told it could be my digital board. My main problem is that it is such an intermitent problem that it would be VERY hard to diagnose.
I am having an issue where my hlrw5067w will not turn on. The lamp comes on but the picture doesn't. I get the lamp indicator on the front blinking and it shuts the lamp off after 45 secs. A month before this started i got a check fan number 3 box on the tv. I ordered and recieved a new lamp put it in today still not coming on. I can hear the fan working when it comes on so i know it works. So i am thinking my next step is to replace the fan mainly because i can't afford to try anything else. Any information on how to replace a fan or a close up picture of the fan directly behind the lamp. I am really trying to get a good pic of the wires leading into the motor.
I have a samsung HL-R5067W DLP TV. I bought this over three years a go. In past 6 months, I have noticing that the picture freezes and then blacks out for a few seconds before it comes back. It is becoming to be very anoying. I thought it was my COMCAST cable box, however the problem continues even after I replaced the box. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Dave
i have a 'viore' 50 inch dlp... some of these were made by akai.. and some by samsung.. just so happens mine is made by samsung... IT IS THE THERMOSTAT LOCATED ABOVE THE BULB!!! .. it can either be bad.. or the fan BEHIND the bulb isnt performing optimumly.. i had mine all apart.. was nasty.. i cleaned it all out.. it worked FLAWLESSLY for about 2 weeks.. then started again.. leading me to believe the thermostat is bad.. when i cleaned the fan.. i had better air flow.. thus keeping it a bit cooler.. now it dont matter.. the thermostat is shot.. i will be replacing it soon.. this is an OVERHEATING problem on the bulb.. its a safeguard to keep from blowing the bulb.. or starting a fire..
Dishdude2k,
What you are saying sounds logical. Do I need to have the repair manual to open up the back of teh TV, or is it simple enough and just a matter of unscrewing the screws? Also, how do you actually clean the thermostat and the fan? Did you spray the dust remover or used a cloth or a brush?
When you say the thermostat is shot, what happens to your TV screen?
Thanks.
dave, the thermostat is directly above the bulb... you have to pull the cover off of the back... then pull the bulb... then pull the main cover over the whole bottom of the tv... there is a 'tray' that is secured by 2 or 3 screws .. it holds the bulb area.. and the projector assembly.. pull the whole tray out.. and you will see the thermostat.. it looks like the same kind that is put in a central heating unit for your house.. if it gets too hot.. it cuts power to the whole deal... the fan is also behind that.. you wont see the fan until you pull the tray out... i used compressed air in the can for this.. and got the rest of the tv as well.. hope this helps.. btw.. when mine goes out.. the whole thing shuts off and i get the blinking lights.. i turn it back on.. and it shuts back off .. this can happen repeatedly.. or not very often.. but its irritating as all get out
I have a 50" model. Bought it from Sears in 2005.
I think all possible causes listed above are not worth trying except for the thermostat and fan.
I will try it on mine and if it doesn't work, I'll go for a new LCD, no more DLP in my house...
it is the fan... i replaced mine and it works perfect.. no more problems
One reason the thermostat and fan area goes messy is absense of the air filter inside the lamp cover. According to the manual it should one there. I couldn't find any air filter there, but that's funny, cuz you can buy this filter in a part store.
Good to know ,DishDude, thank you for throwing this idea!!!!!
Guys, don't spend tons of money on expensive parts, try the fan/thermostat idea!!!
Dishdude... what kind of fan did you use?? make, model, where can we get them and is it a direct replacement or did you have to find a way to mount it? Have the same problems with my HL-S5086w, I just blew the dust out of the back like you did... working good now, sounds like the problem will come back soon though.
Not sure of the model.. i took the one out of the tv.. took it to radio shack.. and just matched it with size and voltage... i had to cut the connector off of my old fan.. to put on the new one.. just make sure you match polarity.. and dont use cheap electrical tape to do it.. cause the adhesive will melt and the tape will come off with the heat in the tv.. i shrinkwrapped mine
Thanks for the quick responce... I guess that will be my next step.
Guys, I have just had a Samsung service guy today and he fixed my 50" TV.
He replaced the digital box (aka digital control board assembly). He said these particular models (AX models) have this problem and everything else is fine - dmd, color wheel, power assebmly, etc.
The only problem is the replacement is expensive, i.e. the box costs around $400, but the service guy luckily had one with him that is probably not inventorized and we agreed on $200.
on my 5067 dlp i started having a funny problem today. everything is fine coming in to the hdmi and component video jacks. but the feeds going into the ntsc and atsc coax and the s-video, the picture is all screwed up. there are lines and blocks and colors. its kind of hard to explain. could the tuner need to be replaced? thanks for your help.
iamforquality..... the box costs 400 bucks.... but he 'luckily' had one for 200 only cuz its not inventoried... well dude.. thats theft from his company.. for starters.. and second off.. this guy seen you coming a mile away... not trying to be rude.. but use some common sense here.. i am for a deal.. but even a deal isnt all that if thats not whats wrong with it.. makes no sense to me
look at the voltage doubler capacitors on the power supply. this circuit provides the b-plus to the ballast. one of the capacitors has opened or changed value. this causes the ballast to not be able to stay on after striking the lamp.
Hey Everyone.. Just stumbled across this thread and makes me feel very lucky that I have gotten 3+ trouble free years out of my (refurbished) HL-P4663w, especially considering the amount of time that it is on (probably 40-50 hours per week)
However, this past week a loud buzzing sound has been coming out of the back of the TV, near the lamp assembly. From the descriptions I have read on this forum and my experience with computers; i believe that it is the fan and not the color wheel (not high pitched; and variable/intermittent--sometimes it's very loud, sometimes not)
Is this the type of repair that I can perform myself? I've built my own computers and what not, so i feel fairly comfortable taking apart electronics. Where can I get a replacement fan? Do I need the service manual?
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
lamp fan or color wheel bad.clor wheel is just left of lamp when viewed from rear of chassis and is inside the light tunnel so you can't see it. if fan bad, you can replace it. i don't advise attempting to replace the color wheel due to differing bearing types and setting for the dmd board.
I have a Samsung hlr56 rear projection tv. When the screen is on, white and green dots in two inch squares appear all over the screen and flash. I would appreciate hearing from anyone else who had a similar problem and what was the remedy.
digital board is bad. figure around $300.00-$350.00 just for the part. you will need full model and version # to order it.
Do you have any idea where I can order the part other than from Samsung?
Thanks
try vance baldwin electronics. they sometimes have rebuilt or used units available, but I would shy away from a used one.
Hi I have a samsung 55 in dlp. I had the 3 blinking light son and I replaced the bulb. It is working now but it seems to be very hot. I turned it off after about 10 mins becuase I can feel the heat if I hold my hand about 2 in from the side. Any suggestions. Also I can see the fan and it is running. The tv is 1 year old. Thanks
My best advise would be to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model it includes top grade Panasonic capacitors, easy to follow directions with pictures and free on-line tech assistance in case you run into a snag with the repair GOOD LUCK!!
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