Hi Larry, we too are plagued with the dreaded flashing green light syndrome, seems to be alot of it out there. If you could, will you send us the information on how to fix it? Thank you for helping out folks like us, Dave
dave yor e-mail is no good. I get s retern message when I use what you gave me to send of<"david.l.rice "@gmail.com>:
209.85.217.184 does not like recipient.
Remote host said: 550-5.1.1 The email account that you tried to reach does not exist,dont know your e-mail?
Larry, I too have the WS-55813 and am having the constant blinking green light with no picture. Can you please send me the instructions to repair. [email protected]
I have the blinking green lite of death on my WS-55813 also. I have replaced the 4 capacitors as you reccomended to others on your post with no luck. I now want to check the fuses to see if I have a bad power supply or if i need to replace the ICs as well as a fuse. I need something to show me the location of all the fuses to check and the location of the ICs and part numbers.
Could you forward me the service manual.
Joe have you tried yt to reseat the DM board in the connectors? without the case on firt. Follow the directions to the letter in the instalation part of the repair doc ai ent to you.IT READS
Installation be sure to follow this to the letter to ensure proper connection to the connector plugs at the bottom of the DM
Failure to do so will look like the fix did not work because the connectors are not lined up properly, if the light still blinks, double check the connections are mating properly on the bottom of the DM!!
Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. If the set has the same flashing green light after you install the DM, take it back out and remove the case from around the board. Then install the DM board without the case and make sure all the lower connectors mate properly, Then you can slide onto the case back around the board. I have seen this happen hundreds of times, a miss seated DM board. Note:, do not run or operate the set without the DM case installed.
Larry, you appear to be the source for all that's needed to fix the green blinking light problem on my WS-55813. I don't know if I have any aptitude for this or not, but I think if I get in over my head (like I read the instructions and don't have a clue), I can find a friend that can help me. Please send the instructions and manual to
On another note, I sent a request to Mitsubishi with the symptom -- dead set, green light blinking, etc. -- and wonder of wonders, did not even receive an acknowledgment of the message, let alone some assistance. Based on the traffic here, this is a pretty common problem. Why, if the fix is so easy and inexpensive, would this be a $800 - $1000 service call (other than the $95 to come to my house)? And why wouldn't Mitsubishi have some form of recall/service bulletin notification?
Yes I did follow those procedures you mentioned to the letter. I first tried installing the DM in the case. Then we found this thread about installing it out of the case. We tried that, but there is a little green led on the DM that will flash weh it is getting power, it is not even flashing, so I am thinking I may be missing that -6V from the power supply. I need a new meter, my dog grabbed mine earlier and broke it, it was cheap, so I will get a new one and measure the resistance across the fuses. If you could send me the service manual for the 55813 or the location and purpose for each fuse, I think there are 8 or 9 in the TV and of course the 3 on the DM module already measured good. THanks a ton for your thread. I refuse to pay a tech to fix this. Screw you Mits. I will beat you.
I think I found the problem. I got a new meter and tested all the fuses I could find and found one bad one. F9A01. I would assume 1 and 2 are for power supply. Is this correct. Is there a strategy or method for replacing this fuse? Any documentation or advice would be very much appreciated. Also, i tested the 3 little fuses on the DM board and they are still good.
Joe- WS-55813
Well, got the directions -- in fact, I got about 7 sets of directions, from here and other web sites, all with different pictures and slightly different directions, and finally figured out what's what. Went to the local parts store (not Radio Shack), bought 25v capacitors, (little smaller around than the 35v capacitors, looked like they wouldn't be quite so cramped), and then set about doing the job. Took the back of the set off, as listed, but then it got fun. The schematics and directions all pointed toward 3 screws holding the chassis in the set, and there was only 1. Unfortunately, it was a black screw in a black plastic piece, so it took me 5 minutes to find the dog-gone thing. After I did that, the chassis slid out just fine, except not far enough. I don't know if my set is just newer than most, or if all the sets are the same, but the wire "ties" were these neat little twisty things that were permanent, and you could undo them and get some slack in the wires. I ended up having to disconnect 5 connectors. None of them was tough to get the clip off the associated board connection, and there were few enough of them that I didn't have to label anything.
The DM board and case came out just fine, although the screw closest to the outside of the case was a bit of a bear to get to and to get out -- it was in pretty tight quarters and the screw itself was pretty tight in its hole, too.
The unsolder/resolder went just fine. My son was helping me, and the process took about 20 minutes total. The old capacitors were bulging at the top, so I knew they were bad. I also checked the fuses on the non-component side of the board, as several postings indicated that one of them could easily have been blown during the "make the capacitors go bad" process, and the fuses on my set were just fine.
We stuck the board back in the set without the shield on it just to test. There's a spring ground strap on the board just to the outside of the DM board, and it normally butts up against the shield casing. I just stuck some papers in between it and the DM board for the test.
We pushed the chassis back in a bit, connected the wires we had unplugged, and then plugged the set into my Monster surge protector. The green light blinked for 45 seconds, went out, and when we hit the power button, the set turned on, and a blue screen displayed (we didn't have any source hooked up).
Initially we tried to just slide the DM board shield over the top of the DM board, but there wasn't enough clearance in the back of the board. It came out fine because the board was inside the shield, but there wasn't room in the interior of the cabinet for the shield to get over the board, so it was pull the connectors, pull the board out, mount it back inside the shield, put the whole arrangement back together, replug the connectors, and plug it in. My son was declaring that he was a God, except that after 2 minutes the green light was still blinking so we un-did everything, pulled the DM board up about 2 inches, re-seated it, re-did everything, and plugged it back in. This time everything worked just fine. We remounted the back, hooked all the feeds back up, and my high-def big screen is back in business. My thanks to everyone who put up info to fix this (I never did find anything that was exactly what I needed for the WS-55813), but things were close enough that they worked. Total time -- 2.5 hours. Total cost -- $6.00 Total satisfaction -- priceless!
Hi Larry, I requested the info for repairing the WS-55813 green blinking light problem but have not received anything so in case there was any confusion, my email address is [email protected]. Not trying to rush you, just thought you may have had me confused with another Dave posting after mine. Thank you, Davyreg
Hi Larry,
So many success stories with this fix. I too am having the same problem. I'm waiting for the caps to arrive - my local electronics shop has them back-ordered, but should be in by the end of the week. IF you could send me the information to repair the Mits WS55813 I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance. I have the ws-55813 with the blinking light. Not sure, but previously it was reported to have some sort of vertical line issue. I didn't see this myself. So this might not be the only issue.
Hello. I am having the same dreaded green flashing light of death on my Mitsubishi ws-55813. Could you please send me the instructions and part numbers needed to replace the capacitors and all to [email protected]? Thank you in advance for you time.
Hi larry...same problem blinking green light, works for a week or so, then light comes back on and wont work. Its the ws-65513. Please send instructions and repair manual to : [email protected]
thanks
Hello Bro
You know what I need:) I just got this set from my folks, who were told it would cost $1700.00 plus to fix, what a rip off. What are you the TV angel.
Thanx for your help. I could never afford this TV I sure hope I can fix it.
Faststix
Hello again. More troubleshooting for my WS-55813. It turns out there were no bad fuses. I have already replaced the capacitors and checked the seating 100 times and it is a good connection I am certain. Yet still a blinking light. I was just looking again, and i finally saw it. There is a crack in the board beneath the DM Module, possible preventing the DM from connecting up to the other unit I am fairly certain it cracked when removing putting it back in because it worked for a minute or two then stopped. Now it won't work at all no matter what I try. I think I may have to give up. Any Advice?
JoeUSMMA said: Larry, Hello again. More troubleshooting for my WS-55813. It turns out there were no bad fuses. I have already replaced the capacitors and checked the seating 100 times and it is a good connection I am certain. Yet still a blinking light. I was just looking again, and i finally saw it. There is a crack in the board beneath the DM Module, possible preventing the DM from connecting up to the other unit I am fairly certain it cracked when removing putting it back in because it worked for a minute or two then stopped. Now it won't work at all no matter what I try. I think I may have to give up. Any Advice? Joe [email protected]
Joe,
Send your phone number by private message to CalRich and I will give you a call to see what I can do to help you.
Hi Larry, we too are plagued with the dreaded flashing green light syndrome, seems to be alot of it out there. If you could, will you send us the information on how to fix it? Thank you for helping out folks like us, Dave
send it to where dave? IF I send it to Dave will you get it?
Sorry about that Larry. You can send it to [email protected]. Thank you again for your help, Dave
Larry I have the WS55313 and the blinking light of death can you send me the fix. david.l.rice at gmail dot com
Thanks,
dave
dave yor e-mail is no good. I get s retern message when I use what you gave me to send of<"david.l.rice "@gmail.com>:
209.85.217.184 does not like recipient.
Remote host said: 550-5.1.1 The email account that you tried to reach does not exist,dont know your e-mail?
that's my email [email protected] I get email everyday from there
Larry, I too have the WS-55813 and am having the constant blinking green light with no picture. Can you please send me the instructions to repair. [email protected]
Thanks
Larry,
I have the blinking green lite of death on my WS-55813 also. I have replaced the 4 capacitors as you reccomended to others on your post with no luck. I now want to check the fuses to see if I have a bad power supply or if i need to replace the ICs as well as a fuse. I need something to show me the location of all the fuses to check and the location of the ICs and part numbers.
Could you forward me the service manual.
Thanks a ton,
Joe
[email protected]
Joe have you tried yt to reseat the DM board in the connectors? without the case on firt. Follow the directions to the letter in the instalation part of the repair doc ai ent to you.IT READS
Installation be sure to follow this to the letter to ensure proper connection to the connector plugs at the bottom of the DM
Failure to do so will look like the fix did not work because the connectors are not lined up properly, if the light still blinks, double check the connections are mating properly on the bottom of the DM!!
Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield. If the set has the same flashing green light after you install the DM, take it back out and remove the case from around the board. Then install the DM board without the case and make sure all the lower connectors mate properly, Then you can slide onto the case back around the board. I have seen this happen hundreds of times, a miss seated DM board. Note:, do not run or operate the set without the DM case installed.
Larry, you appear to be the source for all that's needed to fix the green blinking light problem on my WS-55813. I don't know if I have any aptitude for this or not, but I think if I get in over my head (like I read the instructions and don't have a clue), I can find a friend that can help me. Please send the instructions and manual to
[email protected]
On another note, I sent a request to Mitsubishi with the symptom -- dead set, green light blinking, etc. -- and wonder of wonders, did not even receive an acknowledgment of the message, let alone some assistance. Based on the traffic here, this is a pretty common problem. Why, if the fix is so easy and inexpensive, would this be a $800 - $1000 service call (other than the $95 to come to my house)? And why wouldn't Mitsubishi have some form of recall/service bulletin notification?
Scott Moore
Larry,
Yes I did follow those procedures you mentioned to the letter. I first tried installing the DM in the case. Then we found this thread about installing it out of the case. We tried that, but there is a little green led on the DM that will flash weh it is getting power, it is not even flashing, so I am thinking I may be missing that -6V from the power supply. I need a new meter, my dog grabbed mine earlier and broke it, it was cheap, so I will get a new one and measure the resistance across the fuses. If you could send me the service manual for the 55813 or the location and purpose for each fuse, I think there are 8 or 9 in the TV and of course the 3 on the DM module already measured good. THanks a ton for your thread. I refuse to pay a tech to fix this. Screw you Mits. I will beat you.
Joe- [email protected]
check the little white fuses inside the DM yet?
Hey Larry,
I think I found the problem. I got a new meter and tested all the fuses I could find and found one bad one. F9A01. I would assume 1 and 2 are for power supply. Is this correct. Is there a strategy or method for replacing this fuse? Any documentation or advice would be very much appreciated. Also, i tested the 3 little fuses on the DM board and they are still good.
Joe- WS-55813
[email protected]
Well, got the directions -- in fact, I got about 7 sets of directions, from here and other web sites, all with different pictures and slightly different directions, and finally figured out what's what. Went to the local parts store (not Radio Shack), bought 25v capacitors, (little smaller around than the 35v capacitors, looked like they wouldn't be quite so cramped), and then set about doing the job. Took the back of the set off, as listed, but then it got fun. The schematics and directions all pointed toward 3 screws holding the chassis in the set, and there was only 1. Unfortunately, it was a black screw in a black plastic piece, so it took me 5 minutes to find the dog-gone thing. After I did that, the chassis slid out just fine, except not far enough. I don't know if my set is just newer than most, or if all the sets are the same, but the wire "ties" were these neat little twisty things that were permanent, and you could undo them and get some slack in the wires. I ended up having to disconnect 5 connectors. None of them was tough to get the clip off the associated board connection, and there were few enough of them that I didn't have to label anything.
The DM board and case came out just fine, although the screw closest to the outside of the case was a bit of a bear to get to and to get out -- it was in pretty tight quarters and the screw itself was pretty tight in its hole, too.
The unsolder/resolder went just fine. My son was helping me, and the process took about 20 minutes total. The old capacitors were bulging at the top, so I knew they were bad. I also checked the fuses on the non-component side of the board, as several postings indicated that one of them could easily have been blown during the "make the capacitors go bad" process, and the fuses on my set were just fine.
We stuck the board back in the set without the shield on it just to test. There's a spring ground strap on the board just to the outside of the DM board, and it normally butts up against the shield casing. I just stuck some papers in between it and the DM board for the test.
We pushed the chassis back in a bit, connected the wires we had unplugged, and then plugged the set into my Monster surge protector. The green light blinked for 45 seconds, went out, and when we hit the power button, the set turned on, and a blue screen displayed (we didn't have any source hooked up).
Initially we tried to just slide the DM board shield over the top of the DM board, but there wasn't enough clearance in the back of the board. It came out fine because the board was inside the shield, but there wasn't room in the interior of the cabinet for the shield to get over the board, so it was pull the connectors, pull the board out, mount it back inside the shield, put the whole arrangement back together, replug the connectors, and plug it in. My son was declaring that he was a God, except that after 2 minutes the green light was still blinking so we un-did everything, pulled the DM board up about 2 inches, re-seated it, re-did everything, and plugged it back in. This time everything worked just fine. We remounted the back, hooked all the feeds back up, and my high-def big screen is back in business. My thanks to everyone who put up info to fix this (I never did find anything that was exactly what I needed for the WS-55813), but things were close enough that they worked. Total time -- 2.5 hours. Total cost -- $6.00 Total satisfaction -- priceless!
Scott Moore
Hi Larry, I requested the info for repairing the WS-55813 green blinking light problem but have not received anything so in case there was any confusion, my email address is [email protected]. Not trying to rush you, just thought you may have had me confused with another Dave posting after mine. Thank you, Davyreg
Hi Larry,
So many success stories with this fix. I too am having the same problem. I'm waiting for the caps to arrive - my local electronics shop has them back-ordered, but should be in by the end of the week. IF you could send me the information to repair the Mits WS55813 I would greatly appreciate it.
[email protected]
Thanks,
Mick
Hey Larry,
I'm also having the blinking light of death problem with my WS55613. Could you please send me the repair instructions. Thanks in advance.
[email protected]
Hi Larry. One more victim here. Can you send your instructions!
[email protected]
Thanks in advance. I have the ws-55813 with the blinking light. Not sure, but previously it was reported to have some sort of vertical line issue. I didn't see this myself. So this might not be the only issue.
Jeremy
That is how the capacitors start to go, on these sts sometimes. You get lines and stuff on the screen on a lot of sets.
Hello. I am having the same dreaded green flashing light of death on my Mitsubishi ws-55813. Could you please send me the instructions and part numbers needed to replace the capacitors and all to [email protected]? Thank you in advance for you time.
Larry I have a Mitsubishi WS-55813 that started the green blinking light. Could you please email me the manual on this. Thanks. [email protected]
Larry,
I too have the blinking light issue on my WS-55813. Can you please email me the repair instructions?
[email protected]
Thanks
Hi larry...same problem blinking green light, works for a week or so, then light comes back on and wont work. Its the ws-65513. Please send instructions and repair manual to : [email protected]
thanks
Hi I am having the same problem with my WS-65513. Can you please email instructions and repair manual to [email protected]
thanks in advance,
Mark
Hello Bro
You know what I need:) I just got this set from my folks, who were told it would cost $1700.00 plus to fix, what a rip off. What are you the TV angel.
Thanx for your help. I could never afford this TV I sure hope I can fix it.
Faststix
I need an e-mail address to send you any info along.
Larry,
Hello again. More troubleshooting for my WS-55813. It turns out there were no bad fuses. I have already replaced the capacitors and checked the seating 100 times and it is a good connection I am certain. Yet still a blinking light. I was just looking again, and i finally saw it. There is a crack in the board beneath the DM Module, possible preventing the DM from connecting up to the other unit I am fairly certain it cracked when removing putting it back in because it worked for a minute or two then stopped. Now it won't work at all no matter what I try. I think I may have to give up. Any Advice?
Joe
[email protected]
Joe,
Send your phone number by private message to CalRich and I will give you a call to see what I can do to help you.
Rich
can you find the crack and solder across the broken foil?
Hey JoeUSMMA. I too have the same problem. My DTV Tuner card broke by the black plastic support for the DM board. Here's a link for the part. Good luck. https://www.ued.net/ued/addItems.do?itemCode=MSB934C068001
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