samsung HCL4715W

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Nick Burrett
Hi,

Hi,

I've had this TV for about four years, with no problems, then suddenly about a week ago, got the same convergence problem as described above.  Messed around with the manual convergence, but nothing would move.  Jumped on the web and found this discussion, and figured I'd try swapping out the convergence module.  Ordered it from Samsung, and though I'd be all set.  I also ordered a service manual from servicemanuals.net so that I'd be able to do the adjustments properly.  Today I received the part, and installed it, but I've hit the same snag Jar Head was experiencing.  With the old convergence module, I could only adjust blue.  With the new one, I can adjust blue and green, but not red.  Is it possible the new module is bad?  It obviously made a difference, but didn't allow me to completely fix the problem, or is it likely that I've got problems in other places as well?  Any help/ideas greatly appreciated.

Tom9
I am pretty sure I am in the

I am pretty sure I am in the same boat as the rest of yall, can someone just confirm (based upon these pictures) that your having similar issues, before I spend the loot on the Service Manual and parts?


Larry Dillon
Bass, the photobucket wants a

Bass, the photobucket wants a password man.

Larry Dillon
Hey bass, loads of waisted

Hey bass, loads of waisted space there man. Just because you do not understand how to do it, do not bash or knock this sight. There are a lot of very good, well educated programmers who have worked very hard on getting this custom site set up. This is not a simple V-bulletin type set up. Others here have posted pictures with no problem. So please refrain from bashing on my watch!

Tom9
I am sorry, I've  just come

I am sorry, I've  just come to expect online forums to support either BBCode or HTML. Embarassed

Matt Whitlock
Hi BassKozz,

Hi BassKozz,

Matt here, manager of the TechLore Community.

Posting pictures on TechLore isn't all that hard, but it might depend on what browser you're using. If you're using Safari, there might be a couple issues that we're tracking down, but IE and Firefox work just fine.

There's a toolbar above the text area. One button is a little tree (Insert/Edit Image). Click that, and you'll see the option to put a URL to your image there (if it's already online and not password protected), or you can hit the little box next to it to bring up the upload wizard. If you choose to upload, browse to the web-sized jpg or gif file on your computer and click upload. Click on the thumbnail of the image that will appear, which will put a url to your uploaded image in the box. Hit the insert button and your image should appear.

TechLore does support direct HTML input, but you need to turn on the advanced editing toolbar in your user profile. You can also upload an avatar while you're there. If you need further help, please feel free to PM me.

Tom9
Thanks for the help Matt,

Thanks for the help Matt, Advanced Editing Worked Laughing
sorry for getting frusterated earlier Embarassed

Getting back on topic, here are the pics, sorry for the confusion...




Click on the images to view them in a larger format

Larry Dillon
You have a bad convergence

You have a bad convergence board and possible bad pico fuses as well. i can tell by the first picture.

Tom9
Thanks for clearing that up

Thanks for clearing that up for me Larry. Laughing

So if I simply purchase the AA9-501799G board  I can install it and then do some Convergence adjustments using the service manual, and I should be all set?

Should I try and do the Convergence Adjustments before replacing the board, or is it so screwed up that there is no hope?

I found this board on Ebay:  New Samsung TV Convergence Module AA9501799G for $90.86 Shipped, is the best price I can get on this?

Thanks again for all the help

TimR
BassKozz said: Thanks for

BassKozz said: Thanks for clearing that up for me Larry. Laughing So if I simply purchase the AA9-501799G board  I can install it and then do some Convergence adjustments using the service manual, and I should be all set? Should I try and do the Convergence Adjustments before replacing the board, or is it so screwed up that there is no hope? I found this board on Ebay:  New Samsung TV Convergence Module AA9501799G for $90.86 Shipped, is the best price I can get on this? Thanks again for all the help

Thats not the convergence module.  Thats the DCU.   They are different.  That unit will not work for you.  What you need has 2 IC's on it, with the markings of STK *** on it.   Those are the 2 IC's that you need to change.  ALong with those burning out, there are some resistors , and possibly a pico fuse (small green resistor type looking thing)

Larry Dillon
I would not buy it from e-bay

I would not buy it from e-bay man. How do you know if this is a complete modual, that is good? I have received a board once from e-bay, and they said it was new, and it was but it was cracked. That is not the convergence board you need my friend. Thats the digital board for convergence. That is not the problem, you need the convergence amp board, part number AA95-01846D. This board also has a flyback transformer on it. You should simply replace the STK 392-040 IC's on this board.

Tom9
Thanks guys you saved me from

Thanks guys you saved me from spending $$$ on something I didn't need...

Ok, so I purchased the Service Manual (useless) and I've cracked open the front of the TV (See pictures Below), now where can I find the Convergence Amp Board (AA95-01846D) ? Am I going to need to open up the back too?


Left/Center/Right
Click on the images to view in a larger format

Larry Dillon
You will nee to unhook some

You will nee to unhook some of the wire ties and slide out the chassis. Look for the large black heat sinks or metal pieces of metal with fins on them. They will have two black IC's mounted on them. They will be the STK392-040. That's the board you want or change the IC's, or send the board to ptscorp.com for an overhaul.

Tom9
After preforming a quick

After preforming a quick google search for the model number Larry gave me in a previous post (AA95-01846D) I found this thread which has the following picture attached to it:AA95-01846D Board

After viewing this picture I found that the board is in the center of the two other boards, I plan on removing it shortly and will take some pictures of my own. But in the mean time, I also found out where I can buy a replacement of this board, partstore.com, but when I search for the model number (AA95-01846D) I get two results.

So which is it, the: ASSY SUB-PCB,SUB;PCL545R,P54A,AA95-00705 for $84.82
or the: ASSYPCBSUBPCL545RP54A for $141
?Undecided

I relize I could just change the IC's and prolly save some dough, but I am mediocre (at best) with a soildering iron.

Thanks for all the help Larry (and everyone), it is much appreciated.
-BassKozz

Larry Dillon
Yeppers, thats the board, but

Yeppers, thats the board, but see what it cost from ptscorp to have it rebuilt first. Call them. Go to the website and get the telephone number.

Tom9
Will do Larry, they are

Will do Larry, they are closed tonight, but will call tomorrow, and let you know, thanks again for all the help, and sorry we got off on the wrong foot, my frusteration got the best of me, Sorry and thanks for giving me a 2nd chance.

Larry Dillon
Not a problem man. We are

Not a problem man. We are here to help, as long as it is accepted.

Tom9
Ok, I contacted PTScorp (via

Ok, I contacted PTScorp (via e-mail);
WE DO HAVE THIS IN STOCK. PRICE IS 138.76 PLUS SHIPPING WITH A 30.00 CORE VALUE OR IF YOU SEND IN FOR REPAIR IT IS $98.76 PLUS SHIPPING.
What does "30.00 CORE VALUE" mean?

Anyways, I also called up partstore.com, and they said that both of the boards listed on their site are the same... Being the cheap skate that I am I went with the cheaper one ($84.82) Money mouth

But I am still confused on how to remove and replace my current board...

(Click to view in larger format)

In the picture you'll notice that where the RED ARROWS are pointing there seems to be a lip of plastic stapled to the bottom blocking the tray from easily slid out of the enclosure. If you notice where the BLUE ARROW is pointing, there seems to be a clip holding it down, I can't tell if there is one of these clips in the back as well? Also there are screws holding the board down as well (not pictured).

I am trying to figure out if I need to remove the back of the TV as well? Or should I be able to remove/replace this board from the front (speaker grill)?

Larry Dillon
you cannot remove it from the

you cannot remove it from the front. Too big of a PIA. Slide out the chassis as i mentioned before.

Tom9
Ok, so when you say "slide

Ok, so when you say "slide out the chassis" does it easily slide out, and I am assuming this is from the back of the TV correct?

Larry Dillon
Yes from the back of the set.

Yes from the back of the set. If you have the service manual, follow that please.

Tom9
Roger Wilco...I'll get back

Roger Wilco...
I'll get back to you once I recieve my new AA95-01846D board Smile
Thanks,
-BassKozz

Sam Sung
BassKozz,

BassKozz,

I just completed the process you are going through now and the result was disapointed with the result.  I bought the service manual, did the research on other sites, I purchased the new board from partstore.com (AA9501846D) and installed it.  I set up a jig on the front of the tv to re-align the convergence lines.  Probably invested 16-20 hours on total project. 

End result: TV picture is now clear but HD signals are not (DVD or HD signals).  Auto convergence still doesn't work.  Bottom line, I think I would have been happier forking out the cash for a new flat screen than fixing the dinosaur projection tv that will probably have the same problem again in 2 years.

 good luck!

Nick Burrett
Sam Sung,

Sam Sung,

You have to do the convergence adjustments twice.  Once for HD and once for standard video (that's why they show two different jigs for each model, and you can't use the same jig for both, unless you made both sets of lines.)  Select the HD source, then go into the convergence adjustment mode and repeat the convergence adjustment procedure.  I'm still messing around with mine, but the TV's at least watchable now.  Auto convergence doesn't seem to work on mine either.

Tom9
Where can I get a jig?  What

Where can I get a jig?  What is the part number?

My  AA95-01846D board came but I haven't installed it yet. 

jcrizz
DOES ANY ONE HERE HAVE A COPY

DOES ANY ONE HERE HAVE A COPY OF THE SAMSUNG SERVICE MANUAL FOR HCL4715W?

OPTION CODE WX/XXA

THANKS

Tom9
It worked, I did it...and I

It worked, I did it...and I didn't even need a jig :)
I simply replaced the AA95-01846D board and it worked right off the bat :-D
Thank you larry and everyone on this forum, your help is MUCH APPRECIATED Laughing

Here are some screenshots of the replacement process... I tried to take pictures of all of the cables that needed to be disconnected and reconnected but I got over zealous and missed a few. 

(Click on the thumbnails to view larger format) 

I hope this thread helps others  

Larry Dillon
Great news! Feels good to

Great news! Feels good to save a ton of cash on something you can do.

Tom9
Thanks again Larry for all

Thanks again Larry for all the help, I owe you big time Wink

kb85
I also have a HCL4715W with

I also have a HCL4715W with convergence problems, however mine doesnt look quite like the pictures BassKozz posted. This one basically has blue shadows on everything. When checking connections I happened to notice that the picture looked the same with or without the cable plugged in to the AA95-01799G convergence module. It seems logical to me, that would point to that board being the problem, but was wondering if anyone could confirm that. Thanks!

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