samsung HCL4715W

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Larry Dillon
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kb85, your problem is the

kb85, your problem is the convergence IC's. If you have soldering experience as well as experience working on solid state circuit boards, you can get two original IC's for your TV set from HERE, or you can contact ptscorp.com, get the toll free telephone number from the site, call them, and see what they charge for an exchange board, or how much it is to rebuild yours. Good Luck

kb85
kb85's picture
Thanks Larry,   I'm not too

Thanks Larry,   I'm not too good with a soldering iron, so maybe I will just order the whole board, just to confirm, those IC's are the ones on the AA95-01846D circuit board, is that correct? If so I have seen those available for about $85. I just didn't want to replace this board if it was actually the Convergence Module board. Thanks again.

Larry Dillon
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It is not the sub board but

It is not the sub board but the main convergence boar with the STK IC's mounted on a large metal heat sink.

kb85
kb85's picture
Ok, Yea, that's the AA95

Ok, Yea, that's the AA95-01846D, I will get one of those on the way, and have already ordered a service manual. Thanks again for your help.

Larry Dillon
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Should have asked me for the

Should have asked me for the manual. I could have saved you the money for one. If that is the board from Samsung,  it cost $107.28. Maybe it is the rebuilt boards?

kb85
kb85's picture
I guess I should have asked

I guess I should have asked about the manual first, oh well. I ordered the board from partstore.com for $84.82, and it doesn't say anything about being rebuilt, I did see that part from Samsung at $107.28, just thought I could save a few bucks on the one from partstore.com .

bdhulk
bdhulk's picture
I have the same problem with

I have the same problem with the red convergence going out on my samsung HCL4715W.  the blue and green adjust up/dwn and left/right.  Red will only adjust left/right not up/dwn.  I replaced the stk ic for the red.  the fuse and resisters were fine.   No change.   I have the service manual and in convergence mode there is no adjusting red up/dwn.  I have some electronic repair background.  Any ideas what the problem could be? or where to look next?

Larry Dillon
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On the IC you replaced, check

On the IC you replaced, check for the positive and negitive supply voltage.

bdhulk
bdhulk's picture
Okay. What am I looking for?

Okay. What am I looking for? lack of voltage?  This set had this red convergence problem 2 yrs ago but it was covered under warrinity.  When I had the board out I could see their repair tracks.  It looked like it took out a power transister that is connected to a heat sink.  They also replaced a couple of the pico fuses.  lead me on please.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
The positive and negitive

The positive and negitive power supply voltages on the convergence IC's is what you need to check and see if they are there or not. You said you had the service manual. If you do not know or understand how to take voltage measurements off the IC's by using the schematic diagram, I'm afraid this is not a repair for you my friend. I cannot simply "LEAD" you on as you put it and have you follow. It is not that simple. You will need to know how to use a multimeter and take voltage measurements and see where they are missing as per the service manual.

Tom9
Tom9's picture
BassKozz said: Here are some

BassKozz said: Here are some screenshots of the replacement 

Hahahah, I said screenshots Tongue out

Wow... way to many computer related forum posts.

Didn't relize this until now... :watching-football: on my working tv ;)

Rod Crutchfield
Rod Crutchfield's picture
Hey first time on site and

Hey first time on site and web boards - yeah behind the times! I have an Akai 54" crt tv and replace the main convergence board for my red being all out of whack. Plug and play and corrected the red problem, so I can manually adjust it. My question is what's the best way to make a screen jig, without spending a $100 bucks to buy one. Any help would be appreciatted!! Do I use transparent paper and draw the outline or what?

Drew
Drew's picture
kb85 said: I also have a

kb85 said: I also have a HCL4715W with convergence problems, however mine doesnt look quite like the pictures BassKozz posted. This one basically has blue shadows on everything. When checking connections I happened to notice that the picture looked the same with or without the cable plugged in to the AA95-01799G convergence module. It seems logical to me, that would point to that board being the problem, but was wondering if anyone could confirm that. Thanks!

So, I see a couple posts after this one, but was wondering how it all turned out for you. I posted in another thread after only seeing the regular convergence issues, but finally searched on a term that lead me to your post.

I have the blue/white ghosting, especially where lighter images ghost over to the right onto darker images. I also simultaneously seemed to have lost some resolution, like the line doubler stopped working or something, where I see small lines in the resolution where it was crystal clear before.

I was wondering if you also had any resolution problems like I describe along w/ your ghosting, and if so, how your repair went in general.

Anyone feel free to chime in as well. I'm mechanically inclined, but haven't fixed a TV before. Would like to get this thing back to where it was if it isn't too costly.

Thanks,

Karz

kb85
kb85's picture
I'm not really sure about the

I'm not really sure about the resolution on this set, I was given this tv because of the convergence problem, so I never really saw what it looked like before. As Larry Dillon suggested, I replaced the main board, http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=AA9501846D&x=21&y=15, which was about $85 here. I am not an electronic repairman, but it was fairly simple, just make sure you plug everything into the new board exactly as it was in the old board. It looks great now, so I'm pretty happy to have a working 47" TV for 85$. Hope yours works out well.

kb

Bigfish
Bigfish's picture
I have exact same issues as

I have exact same issues as others here.  I guess I have to change the board as well.  However, I am having hard time taking board out.  First, there are 3 screws.  The screw near the front of the tv is very hard to get to.  How do you unscrew this one?  I removed the back panel and from here, it's seems almost impossible without removing the big thing (I don't know what it is called.. there are 3 of them hanging above with circuit board at the end) just above it.  Do I have to remove this?  Also, it looks like others were able to open the front speaker panel.  How do you open this?  Lastly, even if I were able to remove all screws, how do I slide the board out?  It's blocked in both front and back by these plastics sticking out.

BTW, I have Samsung HCL473W.

If anyone has a service manual that you can send me, that would be great.  My email address is hansim4@yahoo.com.  Thanks so much for your help.  My 4 year daughter is begging me everyday to fix this asap. 

Drew
Drew's picture
kb85 said: I'm not really

kb85 said: I'm not really sure about the resolution on this set, I was given this tv because of the convergence problem, so I never really saw what it looked like before. As Larry Dillon suggested, I replaced the main board, http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=AA9501846D&x=21&y=15, which was about $85 here. I am not an electronic repairman, but it was fairly simple, just make sure you plug everything into the new board exactly as it was in the old board. It looks great now, so I'm pretty happy to have a working 47" TV for 85$. Hope yours works out well. kb

Thanks for the prompt response. I guess if that's the consensus I'll order that part and find the matching part inside my tv once the new part gets here, and do a swap.

As for the resolution question, I understand what you're saying, nothing to compare it to.

Anyone feel free to chime in if I need to know anything else, other than ordering the part kb85 linked me to and putting it into my HCL 4715W.

Thanks,

karz

B Ross
B Ross's picture
BassKozz said: Thanks for

BassKozz said: Thanks for clearing that up for me Larry. Laughing So if I simply purchase the AA9-501799G board  I can install it and then do some Convergence adjustments using the service manual, and I should be all set? Should I try and do the Convergence Adjustments before replacing the board, or is it so screwed up that there is no hope? I found this board on Ebay:  New Samsung TV Convergence Module AA9501799G for $90.86 Shipped, is the best price I can get on this? Thanks again for all the help

You can find the part, AA9501799G, here on partstore.com. Hope this helps!

Drew
Drew's picture
Hi again, so I was thinking

Hi again, so I was thinking of getting the AA9501846D board for my 4715W as suggested by a few folks. Sounds like some people had concerns about being able to get this board out, and it was suggested to slide out the tray or something from the back, and to follow the service manual, and someone suggested they could get a service manual for free.

Can someone highlight for me how I get the service manual? I'll order the part and give it a shot...

Regards,

karz

jakkwb
jakkwb's picture
Hello all-

Hello all-

First time poster here. I have the sorry Samsung set mentioned in these posts. Mine lasted about 16 months, then died.

When you plug it in, The red power light comes on, but no picture. There is a steady high pitched beeping, and a clicking sound. This keeps happening until I unplug it.

I would love a service manual (if it would help me) unless someone here can direct me to what my problem actually is.

Thank you.

Drew
Drew's picture
karz10 said: Hi again, so I

karz10 said: Hi again, so I was thinking of getting the AA9501846D board for my 4715W as suggested by a few folks. Sounds like some people had concerns about being able to get this board out, and it was suggested to slide out the tray or something from the back, and to follow the service manual, and someone suggested they could get a service manual for free. Can someone highlight for me how I get the service manual? I'll order the part and give it a shot... Regards, karz

So, to update... despite not getting a response on the above yet, I gave it a shot...

I got the part in the other day and put it in last night. A couple parts were a little tricky. I tried to 'slide the chasis out' from the back as suggested to another poster, that seemed like that was going to involve a whole lot of disconnecting and reconnecting of unrelated items, and I just couldn't get my head around the best way to do it.

Ended up unscrewing the chasis and the board, and sliding it partially out, and then disconnecting the wires on the board, after taking a bunch of pics just in case I couldn't get it back together. I also referenced Bass' pics, but until you get into it, they don't mean much. For one thing, the pics make it look relatively small in the photos, since none of his pics show anything of scale to reference, so when I got the board in, I was like whoa, that thing is HUGE.

One problem were those little plastic things that stick up from the heatsinks, keeping the wires off of them. I was too stupid to understand how they connected to the heatsinks, I thought they should just come strait up, but you have to poke something through the hole on the back side to get it to release and come off, so I broke one by shear force. Then, after I realized the right way, I still broke some accidentally coz they were somewhat brittle, I think. I still had a couple good ones left, so after I got the new board in, I used some plastic wire ties to help keep everything out of harm's way.

All said and done, I got it all in and tested it out. So far so good. As some may recall, I posted about the blueish/white shadows from lighter images over darker images. Also, a loss of resolution, w/ some 'lines' in the resolution. Both problems are solved by the above board. I still don't feel like I'm a 100% new, since I have a little more 'glow' than I had when it was new, like whites glowing/bleeding into blacks a little, don't know what that's all about. Tried playing w/ settings but it'still there. This rear projection always had a little of that, like a bright white glowing into black bars on a movie or something, but seems more pronounced now. Not saying it's the boards fault, could have become worse around the same time as my other malfunctions.

Anyway, if all keeps up, then it was worth the change, and the $85. I didn't have anything else to do either, as far as jigs or convergence, since I didn't have the multi layer images some reported, I just had the shadows and overall poor image quality.

Thanks to those on this forum though, coz most other places I checked had no idea. I ended up seeing more posts from Basskozz on other boards than anything else, where he pointed back to this thread and board for the fix.

Regards,

Karz

wbrian9260
wbrian9260's picture
Greetings

Greetings

I too have a Samsung HCL4715W with a red convergence problem, in fact, this time is the third. 

I purchased the TV in 02.  The first time was in 04 and was under warranty.  The second time was Oct 07 and I had a phonebook TV repair guy replace the STK IC's on the AA9501846D sub board for ~ $160 (Took 2 months!!!).  His fix only lasted for a little over a year as it has just gone out again.  This time I ordered the AA9501846D board from partstore.com for $85 and plan on chaning it myself.

My question is, has anyone ever considered adding a insulated 120VAC fan inside the chassis to blow over the STK heatsinks?  If one could find a place on the power supply to catch a 120VAC on/off source, I would think that the high temperature that causes the thermal compound on the STK IC's to breakdown could be drastically reduced, and hopefully extend the life of these IC's.

Any thoughts?  I might try it when I get the new board.

justin nichols
justin nichols's picture
I've got the same t.v. with

I've got the same t.v. with the same problem except for one thing.  The convergence is way out but so is the focus on the red and blue gun.  Green is readable but the others are not (already checked focustat adjustments).  I noticed that somebody had been playing before I inharited it.  the convergence stk's had been changed with 392-020's which appears to be the wrong part (a day late and an amp short).  I went ahead and ordered a pair of stk392-040's to replace but I'm a bit worried about the blurry red and blue gun.  I'll also have to replace a picofuse and two resistors as well.  I'm so happy that the old day's of manual convergence boards with rows and rows of pots for adjustments are gone.  I had to change the heat coupling fluid in one of those old tv's once and spent the next 2 days getting the convergence back.  those old convergence panels were a pain in the butt.  I'd rather replace an stk any day of the week!

My question is could a bad stk interfere with focus or am I dealing with two different problems?   

 on another note I have installed small fans on the convergence heat sink's before.  I usually use 12V fans and a 7812 regulator and tie it to a hi current low voltage line in the power supply.  I also try to use low current fans.  something around 300ma or less (less is better) and no more than two.  They won't move a ton of air....but then they don't have to.  60mm cpu fans work well.

Larry Dillon
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Please watch your mouth my

Please watch your mouth my friend. I edited your post to meet the techlore high standards. What is it exactly your asking, or are you telling? It seems you are trying to do both?

justin nichols
justin nichols's picture
Sorry, Won't do that again.

Sorry, Won't do that again.

 I really just wanted to know if a convergence stk will or can affect focus?  the red and blue are blooming really bad as well as the convergence being out and that seemed odd to me.

thanks for you time and again sorry for the language. 

justin nichols
justin nichols's picture
Me again,

Me again,

I got this tv working by replacing the two convergence IC's 2 open 3.9 ohm resistors (they will read approximatly 2 ohms if tested in the circut) and a 3.5amp picofuse.  The focus problem on the red and blue picture tubes was somebody playing around with the lenses.  I also did some modifications by adding two fans to the convergence IC's heat sink's.  it makes a big difference and probibly knocks 50F or so off their running temp.  I let this tv run for 24 hours as a burn in test.  To get into service mode, on your remote press "MUTE-1-8-2-POWER" but I don't see why you would need to go there.

I took some pics of what I did.

 

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Good For You! Thanks for the

Good For You! Thanks for the great feedback!

kingpn
kingpn's picture
Ok, I read up on this and

Ok, I read up on this and took a stab at it. I ordered the AA9501846D board from partstore.com and replaced the board. The problem doesn't appear any better than before. The Perfect Focus doesn't work, so I've tried the Red/Blue focus as well as the mute-1-8-3 and can't make progress.

I can see colors moving/shifting, but everything seems really blurry so i can't tell when I've made the proper adjustments. Perhaps someone has the service manual I could look at or some other advice for me at this point.

The set was free since it didn't work, but now that there is ~$90 and a few hours into this project, I'd like to know whether or not I should call it quits are I can work this out.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
You can download the service

You can download the service manual from techlores technicians corner HERE. It is listed under the PCL-HCL-ST models. It is also free. You will need to look on the power supply board for the plus and the minus 30 volt fuses that blow when the IC's in this set goes bad. They are listed on the board as FD855S for the plus 30 volts, and FD802S for the negative voltage. These are 6.2 or 6.3 amp fuses. Good Luck

kingpn
kingpn's picture
Thanks for that link (and all

Thanks for that link (and all your help) Larry. I looked one more time and found a cable that I forgot to plug back in after swapping boards. That took care of it. There was a wicked bend in the convergence near the bottom right of the monitor, but spending some time in the service mode fixed that. This link helped me with the remote codes: http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=41583

Thanks to the help from this forum, that link, and partstore.com, i know have a 47" tv for less than $100!

dad1
dad1's picture
Larry Dillon said: No problem

Larry Dillon said: No problem Jar head. now is the time to break out the manual.  Go and look what IC controls the red horizontal and vertical.  feel it carefully on the surface while the set is on.  is it as warm as the other chip?  Also i really hope you use new heat sink compound on the IC's before you installed them.  if the one IC is not as hot as the other, then you probably have an open feedback resistor in the circuit somewhere around the IC.  Also very carefully compare the B+ voltages on each IC.

i have the same prob with my red both the ics are the same temp i dont want to replace unless i have to not sure how to check b+ voltages ?

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