I replaced the Convergence board and the set still does not respond to a manual convergence alignment attempt. Any other suggestions woud be greatly appreciated.
After re-reading the Tech Manual I figured out how to reset the convergence. I guess I was lucky in that I did not have to replace pico fuses or any resistors. Although the convergence has been reset and I have corrected the 3-D look - I have a picture that looks "stretched" in the upper third of the screen. I will have to work on getting that re-aligned.
However, wanted to let everyone know that the information posted was very helpful and got my set back to working order with about 4 hours of my time and under $100 for a new board. I plan to replace the IC's on the old board and keep it as a back-up.
Kind of new at this, but I have read through just about the entire thread. Great stuff, good suggestions, but unfortunately, no help on my problem. I have what I thought is a convergence problem, I have replaced the STK 392-040 IC's, but that did not help. I am willing to replace the entire board that they are on if necessary, but I wanted to ask if this is a good idea. I have the HCL4715W unit that is pictured above in Justin's posts. The picture is very similar to his, but with one big difference: not only is the picutre convergence off, but the Green and Blue are curved real bad in the middle, similar to a Pin-Cusion effect and Red is pretty much in the correct place. My problem is very similar to BassKozz so maybe this board will fix my problem as well.
Now, since the chips did not solve the problem, I am leaning towards a powersupply issue. Since I have no method for safely testing 22KV or higher, I am hoping that someone will still know for sure what to replace on this unit. I am attaching some pictures of what I am seeing on my screen in hopes that it will help in diagnosing my issue. All fuses appear to be good and meter out correctly. I am unable to locate any pico-fuses, so if they are there, I need to know where to look for them more exactly in order to check them.
For now, I will continue to watch TV on my old 20" CRT. Better than nothing. So my goal for this project is to get the unit functional and spend as little as possible. Should it be necessary to spend $350 or more on repair, I feel a new unit might be the best route. This TV is about 5 years old now, so it has been a pretty good unit. Any help will be appreciated. Take a look at the pics and let me know what everyone thinks.
If you replaced the IC's but did not replace the plus or the minus 30 volt power supply fuses then you would have this problem. in the main power supply, on the printed circuit board by the main SMPS switching transformer are two small fuses soldered right to the board. They are marked on the board as FD855S and FD802S. Check these fuses for continuity. If one or more do not have a short across it, it is bad, or considered open. You can get a free download of this service manual in the resources section of this site. Click on the resources tab at the home page, click on technicians corner, and you will see Samsung HCL models listed there. Click on that and you can download it. Good luck
I am pretty sure that these fuses are good, (Glass fuses over on the powerboard) but I will check this evening to be sure. I am currently printing the service manual so that I will have it available for verification. If this is not the problem, any other suggestions?
Again, I will post more later, hopefully yet tonight about what I find.
NO NO NO! These are NOT glass fuses. LIKE I said these are small fuses SOLDERED onto the printed circuit board. They do not look like regular fuses. They look more like resistors. Look at the PC board markings. Your fuse(s) are bad.
OK, just had a chance to look at and I think I figured it out. The two fuses you mentioned are glass slow blow (FD855S and FD802S) and they are OK, but I was able to locate 2 pico fuses (FD1028 and FD1018) hidden deep inside of the STK heat sink on the opposite side. From the bottom of the board I am able to read the numbers and test them. One of these is indeed blown, so you are correct in that I needed to look for the pico fuses, it was just very difficult to locate them.
Now, I need to find some place that has them in stock so that I can give this TV yet another try. Any suggestions where a good local store might be near Dale, IN? I figure I will need to drive a bit futher to find one, but with any luck, I will.
I am having trouble finding this part in the manual though. I found a R486 (2008-1018 R-FUSIBLE(S);0.47ohm,10%,2W,AF,TP,3.9x10) but no FD1018 for FD1028, so I am a bit confused. I have not had a chance to pull it out yet to read the actual component to verify if this is it, so I am unsure exactly what part to look for in order to replace it. Any good parts store suggestions for this would be great, preferable one close.
Nothing else looks bad, hot, scorched or otherwise damaged on the board. I have tested every fuse, glass and pico that I can locate and everything else seems good. Due to the location of this fuse, It will be difficult to replace unless I solder it to the bottom of the board instead. Once I get some long-long nose pliers, I will know more about how difficult it will be to replace this.
I did not mean to upset you in the previous post. I did a search on the parts you mentioned and they came up as glass fuse, so that is why I made the comment saying they were ok. This is my first time actually working on a TV, so I am unfamiliar with most of the stuff inside. I prefer working with networks, Programming, and other IT fun stuff.
I will post more as soon as I replace this fuse, once I find it. Based on what the chips do, and the fact that one of the fuses is indeed bad, I have a new hope that I might yet win the battle.
I was unable to locate any new 3.5Amp pico fuses, so I used some wire and remote located a glass fuse of the correct size in order to get it going. I guess if this blows again, it will be very easy to test being remotely located.
Anyway, Thanks for this thread as it saved me a bundle. A special thanks to Larry, he really knows his stuff.
Just for the record:
STK repair set was about $33
Heat sink repair compound less than $2
Fuse was less than $1
Time actually repairing the TV about 2 hours.
Time going nuts trying to figure out what to do, about 5 hours.
Total cost of project, about $37 including solder.
Well worth the time. With any luck, I will be able to get yet another 5 years out of the set before it breaks again.
At least a few years if you purchaced good STK IC's and not some aftermarket or factory reject IC's. I have also know folks who installed a small cooling fan near the heatsink that made the set last longer.
I'm just getting into this .I determined from the comments that my HCL4715W has a problem with the convergence board as well. I opened up the back and found two resistors RZ144 and145 have brown spots around them. rang them out and found no reading on the RZ144.Is this also caused by the STK's being bad . I don't have a manual yet. Just reading the blogs so far.Very Helpful. Thanks
Before I start my repair adventure I want to say this thread is really cool thanks to those who have come before me for all the great info.
Samsung HCL4715xw/xaa Main Problem: red will not move at all when attempting manual convergence Second problem/annoyance tv speakers don’t work.
Problem 1
After reading the thread I think a good place to start will be that center board.
This is more a project then a necessity so I would like to attempt the component level repair but I would like to practice first.
Is there anyone who has their old board who would be willing to let it go for a few bucks?
Same goes for the service manual it sounds like it’s worthless but its might be nice to have for the schematics.
Problem 2
About a year ago the speakers on the tv stopped working. I can use it with my surround receiver so I figure it has something to do with the onboard amp any advice will be greatly appreciated.
And thanks again for helping me get this far along.
I would say that your STK chips are at fault based on what you described. I did the chip level replacement. All in all, pretty easy. You will need some type of solder sucker to remove the old solder on the board and a temperature controlled solder iron will help out a lot. Be sure to check the pico fuse located under the heat sink. It is hard to see, but easy to check from the bottom-side of the board. On my TV, this was labeled FD1018 and FD1028. When I replaced my chips, I was not able to get the heatsink off of the board. I would advise not even trying to remove it unless you have a really good desoldering tool available. Making this repair is pretty easy leaving the heatsink in place.
Along with the chips, be sure to find some replacement heatsink chip compound before attaching the new STK's. When I bought the kit, this was not included in the package and delayed my repair for an evening.
When you order your repair chips, not sure if the same place will have the pico fuse or not, but my fuse was a 3.5A, so you might want to check yours and try to buy it at the same time to save on shipping.
As for your speakers, I am not to sure on that. I would make sure that the wire is plugged into the main board. I did not make sure it was plugged in well and I had speaker issues at first. This plug is on the far left of the tuner-board. Just a suggestion on that.
As for the manual, you can download the PDF from this thread. The PDF is a bit easier than printing it because you can search electronically. The manual contains many TV models that are similar, but they all have different labeling for some reason. I never did find the FS1018 or FD1028 pico fuses in the manual. It does have some pretty detailed information on how to manually allign the convergence settings, along with how to get into all of the service modes. The original remote is very necessary when in maintenance mode though.
Well, hopefully my advise will help. It is a great feeling when you get it to work, but if not, don't panic, go back and check the basics, and with just a little luck, it will all work out fine.
I would have to agree with MacGyver, the manual is not worthless if you know what your looking for. These manual even have troubleshooting flowcharts in them and a lot of manufacturers do not include this with theirs. So if you can understand and follow circuit flow, the service manual that is available here is certainly worth the price your going to pay for it here. On the Samsung site it cost 30 bucks! Geez, you give some peeps something and they still complain. Find the small fuses in the main power supply and double check your wiring. If you do not understand how to read a schematic diagram and follow circuit flow, ask someone who does to locate the plus and the minus power supply for you. You should be able to repair your set as long as you did not go cheap on the IC's as all IC's are NOT alike. If you purchaced them for under 20 bucks or so for both, they re most likely factory rejects or after market "Made In China" IC's, and we all know how things are coming out of China these days.
yeppers it seems you got the digital convergence board and they probably will not take it back. As you say research before you buy and make sure of what your doing if you do not know what your doing. This is why techs train to repair TV sets for a long time. I still do not understand why some repairs are attempted to be done by unskilled peeps who thing they are trained techs!? Trained techs train over the years. You cannot simply become a tech overnight. You may try but believe you me, you will make costly mistakes as we, trained techs have made in the past as well. it is not as easy as a lot of people think.
Ok I did some checking around I have the IC's on order from a local place that supplies the TV repair places in the area. I found one bad Pico under the the IC for the Red convergence control amp IC. I didnt spot any bad resistors visualy and I checked the ones others have mentioned but they seem good (within tolerance anyway) as well.
I have removed both of the old stk's and cleaned the old thermal compound off the heat sinks . the Pico fuse was tricky but i got that out without having to remove the heatsink.
Next phase install all the new parts and hope it does the trick.
Video is 100%. The ICÂ’s and fuse did the trick. After the install I replaced the board powered the TV and hit the perfect focus done. I Checked the heat sinks while the TV was running, they are hot to the touch I would like to install a small fan across them but I donÂ’t really want to put in a regulator cap etc. when I get time IÂ’m going to look over the Power supply schematic and see if there is some place I can tap in where a little fan noise wonÂ’t cause a problem.
I think a small 5 dcv fan (the old CPU fans) installed at the top across both heat sinks would move enough air to add the extra thermal protection needed. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
I see a lot of people took the whole chassis out when doing a repair/replacement. I got the board out just fine without doing that at all (just take your time and be careful). I marked a piece of paper with all the connections for refernence.
now to work on the sound issue i think that might end up being the harder of the two to pinpoint.
I am in the same boat as everyone here. I am ordering the new board today, and wanted to see if I could get the service manual somehow? Or if someone could share the info needed to to realign once installed. Thanks a lot!
Got it Larry, thanks! Hopefully this will go as well as some others here. If I read right, the easiest way to remove the board is from the back, right?
By the way, would it do any good, or harm, to try to convergence adjustment before buying the board? Or is this either a waste of time, or just a bad idea for any reason?
Very very very bad idea!. If you attempt the adjustments that are way out, you will have a heck of a time trying to adjust the set once you get the board or repair the convergence problem.
Ok, wont do that then. I got on the TV, but I am not able to adjust the convergence in any way, so I am pretty sure I need the board. Ordering tomorrow,.
I am going to remove the old one tonight. I have read through this topic about 3 times in full, but want to verify a few things.
I need to remove this from the back, right? I have never taken this tv apart, so I have to figure that out, which shouldnt be hard.
Is it rather noticable once you get into it, or do you have to search for it? Is there something in there that will help me pinpoint where it is?
I have read that some didnt have to do service adjustments after installing, should I assume that I will, or just a crap shoot? It appears that red is the only thing off on mine right now. When i try to adjust the convergence in the menu, blue and green are fine, only red is off.
There are also most likely blow circuit protector fuses blown because of the bad convergence amp IC's on the main power supply board. They do not look like normal fuses but more like resistors. Yes, you take the board out from the back. Look at the service manual carefully before messing with the TV set.
You still need to replace BOTH IC;s at once.
For Larry Dillon-
I replaced the Convergence board and the set still does not respond to a manual convergence alignment attempt. Any other suggestions woud be greatly appreciated.
Tks. IFF
Larry and All,
After re-reading the Tech Manual I figured out how to reset the convergence. I guess I was lucky in that I did not have to replace pico fuses or any resistors. Although the convergence has been reset and I have corrected the 3-D look - I have a picture that looks "stretched" in the upper third of the screen. I will have to work on getting that re-aligned.
However, wanted to let everyone know that the information posted was very helpful and got my set back to working order with about 4 hours of my time and under $100 for a new board. I plan to replace the IC's on the old board and keep it as a back-up.
Tks to Tech-Lore and other contributors.
IFF
Great news man! I always say, a little reading FIRST can save a lot of time and money.
Hello all,
Kind of new at this, but I have read through just about the entire thread. Great stuff, good suggestions, but unfortunately, no help on my problem. I have what I thought is a convergence problem, I have replaced the STK 392-040 IC's, but that did not help. I am willing to replace the entire board that they are on if necessary, but I wanted to ask if this is a good idea. I have the HCL4715W unit that is pictured above in Justin's posts. The picture is very similar to his, but with one big difference: not only is the picutre convergence off, but the Green and Blue are curved real bad in the middle, similar to a Pin-Cusion effect and Red is pretty much in the correct place. My problem is very similar to BassKozz so maybe this board will fix my problem as well.
Now, since the chips did not solve the problem, I am leaning towards a powersupply issue. Since I have no method for safely testing 22KV or higher, I am hoping that someone will still know for sure what to replace on this unit. I am attaching some pictures of what I am seeing on my screen in hopes that it will help in diagnosing my issue. All fuses appear to be good and meter out correctly. I am unable to locate any pico-fuses, so if they are there, I need to know where to look for them more exactly in order to check them.
For now, I will continue to watch TV on my old 20" CRT. Better than nothing. So my goal for this project is to get the unit functional and spend as little as possible. Should it be necessary to spend $350 or more on repair, I feel a new unit might be the best route. This TV is about 5 years old now, so it has been a pretty good unit. Any help will be appreciated. Take a look at the pics and let me know what everyone thinks.
I eagerly await any advice.
If you replaced the IC's but did not replace the plus or the minus 30 volt power supply fuses then you would have this problem. in the main power supply, on the printed circuit board by the main SMPS switching transformer are two small fuses soldered right to the board. They are marked on the board as FD855S and FD802S. Check these fuses for continuity. If one or more do not have a short across it, it is bad, or considered open. You can get a free download of this service manual in the resources section of this site. Click on the resources tab at the home page, click on technicians corner, and you will see Samsung HCL models listed there. Click on that and you can download it. Good luck
I am pretty sure that these fuses are good, (Glass fuses over on the powerboard) but I will check this evening to be sure. I am currently printing the service manual so that I will have it available for verification. If this is not the problem, any other suggestions?
Again, I will post more later, hopefully yet tonight about what I find.
NO NO NO! These are NOT glass fuses. LIKE I said these are small fuses SOLDERED onto the printed circuit board. They do not look like regular fuses. They look more like resistors. Look at the PC board markings. Your fuse(s) are bad.
OK, just had a chance to look at and I think I figured it out. The two fuses you mentioned are glass slow blow (FD855S and FD802S) and they are OK, but I was able to locate 2 pico fuses (FD1028 and FD1018) hidden deep inside of the STK heat sink on the opposite side. From the bottom of the board I am able to read the numbers and test them. One of these is indeed blown, so you are correct in that I needed to look for the pico fuses, it was just very difficult to locate them.
Now, I need to find some place that has them in stock so that I can give this TV yet another try. Any suggestions where a good local store might be near Dale, IN? I figure I will need to drive a bit futher to find one, but with any luck, I will.
I am having trouble finding this part in the manual though. I found a R486 (2008-1018 R-FUSIBLE(S);0.47ohm,10%,2W,AF,TP,3.9x10) but no FD1018 for FD1028, so I am a bit confused. I have not had a chance to pull it out yet to read the actual component to verify if this is it, so I am unsure exactly what part to look for in order to replace it. Any good parts store suggestions for this would be great, preferable one close.
Nothing else looks bad, hot, scorched or otherwise damaged on the board. I have tested every fuse, glass and pico that I can locate and everything else seems good. Due to the location of this fuse, It will be difficult to replace unless I solder it to the bottom of the board instead. Once I get some long-long nose pliers, I will know more about how difficult it will be to replace this.
I did not mean to upset you in the previous post. I did a search on the parts you mentioned and they came up as glass fuse, so that is why I made the comment saying they were ok. This is my first time actually working on a TV, so I am unfamiliar with most of the stuff inside. I prefer working with networks, Programming, and other IT fun stuff.
I will post more as soon as I replace this fuse, once I find it. Based on what the chips do, and the fact that one of the fuses is indeed bad, I have a new hope that I might yet win the battle.
Thanks Larry for the advise so far.
No insult taken man. If your fuses were glass and not the resistor looking picos, someone changed them.
OK, here is the final situation, hopefully.
IT WORKS.
I was unable to locate any new 3.5Amp pico fuses, so I used some wire and remote located a glass fuse of the correct size in order to get it going. I guess if this blows again, it will be very easy to test being remotely located.
Anyway, Thanks for this thread as it saved me a bundle. A special thanks to Larry, he really knows his stuff.
Just for the record:
STK repair set was about $33
Heat sink repair compound less than $2
Fuse was less than $1
Time actually repairing the TV about 2 hours.
Time going nuts trying to figure out what to do, about 5 hours.
Total cost of project, about $37 including solder.
Well worth the time. With any luck, I will be able to get yet another 5 years out of the set before it breaks again.
At least a few years if you purchaced good STK IC's and not some aftermarket or factory reject IC's. I have also know folks who installed a small cooling fan near the heatsink that made the set last longer.
Hi,
I'm just getting into this .I determined from the comments that my HCL4715W has a problem with the convergence board as well. I opened up the back and found two resistors RZ144 and145 have brown spots around them. rang them out and found no reading on the RZ144.Is this also caused by the STK's being bad . I don't have a manual yet. Just reading the blogs so far.Very Helpful. Thanks
Hi all,
Before I start my repair adventure I want to say this thread is really cool thanks to those who have come before me for all the great info.
Samsung HCL4715xw/xaa Main Problem: red will not move at all when attempting manual convergence Second problem/annoyance tv speakers don’t work.
Problem 1
After reading the thread I think a good place to start will be that center board.
This is more a project then a necessity so I would like to attempt the component level repair but I would like to practice first.
Is there anyone who has their old board who would be willing to let it go for a few bucks?
Same goes for the service manual it sounds like it’s worthless but its might be nice to have for the schematics.
Problem 2
About a year ago the speakers on the tv stopped working. I can use it with my surround receiver so I figure it has something to do with the onboard amp any advice will be greatly appreciated.
And thanks again for helping me get this far along.
I would say that your STK chips are at fault based on what you described. I did the chip level replacement. All in all, pretty easy. You will need some type of solder sucker to remove the old solder on the board and a temperature controlled solder iron will help out a lot. Be sure to check the pico fuse located under the heat sink. It is hard to see, but easy to check from the bottom-side of the board. On my TV, this was labeled FD1018 and FD1028. When I replaced my chips, I was not able to get the heatsink off of the board. I would advise not even trying to remove it unless you have a really good desoldering tool available. Making this repair is pretty easy leaving the heatsink in place.
Along with the chips, be sure to find some replacement heatsink chip compound before attaching the new STK's. When I bought the kit, this was not included in the package and delayed my repair for an evening.
When you order your repair chips, not sure if the same place will have the pico fuse or not, but my fuse was a 3.5A, so you might want to check yours and try to buy it at the same time to save on shipping.
As for your speakers, I am not to sure on that. I would make sure that the wire is plugged into the main board. I did not make sure it was plugged in well and I had speaker issues at first. This plug is on the far left of the tuner-board. Just a suggestion on that.
As for the manual, you can download the PDF from this thread. The PDF is a bit easier than printing it because you can search electronically. The manual contains many TV models that are similar, but they all have different labeling for some reason. I never did find the FS1018 or FD1028 pico fuses in the manual. It does have some pretty detailed information on how to manually allign the convergence settings, along with how to get into all of the service modes. The original remote is very necessary when in maintenance mode though.
Well, hopefully my advise will help. It is a great feeling when you get it to work, but if not, don't panic, go back and check the basics, and with just a little luck, it will all work out fine.
I would have to agree with MacGyver, the manual is not worthless if you know what your looking for. These manual even have troubleshooting flowcharts in them and a lot of manufacturers do not include this with theirs. So if you can understand and follow circuit flow, the service manual that is available here is certainly worth the price your going to pay for it here. On the Samsung site it cost 30 bucks! Geez, you give some peeps something and they still complain. Find the small fuses in the main power supply and double check your wiring. If you do not understand how to read a schematic diagram and follow circuit flow, ask someone who does to locate the plus and the minus power supply for you. You should be able to repair your set as long as you did not go cheap on the IC's as all IC's are NOT alike. If you purchaced them for under 20 bucks or so for both, they re most likely factory rejects or after market "Made In China" IC's, and we all know how things are coming out of China these days.
I have an old board that's been sitting in my office that I am willing to let go... PM Me.
p.s. you can see pictures of it back on page 3.
Hello,
Thanks for the info.I'm trying to do too many things at once and messed up.I ordered a board from
Vance Baldwin.There was no picture of the board so I ended up getting the wrong one. The one I did get was a AA001799G.
Haste makes waste.
yeppers it seems you got the digital convergence board and they probably will not take it back. As you say research before you buy and make sure of what your doing if you do not know what your doing. This is why techs train to repair TV sets for a long time. I still do not understand why some repairs are attempted to be done by unskilled peeps who thing they are trained techs!? Trained techs train over the years. You cannot simply become a tech overnight. You may try but believe you me, you will make costly mistakes as we, trained techs have made in the past as well. it is not as easy as a lot of people think.
Ok I did some checking around I have the IC's on order from a local place that supplies the TV repair places in the area. I found one bad Pico under the the IC for the Red convergence control amp IC. I didnt spot any bad resistors visualy and I checked the ones others have mentioned but they seem good (within tolerance anyway) as well.
I have removed both of the old stk's and cleaned the old thermal compound off the heat sinks . the Pico fuse was tricky but i got that out without having to remove the heatsink.
Next phase install all the new parts and hope it does the trick.
Sounds like you are ready to go. Good Luck
Video is 100%. The ICÂ’s and fuse did the trick. After the install I replaced the board powered the TV and hit the perfect focus done. I Checked the heat sinks while the TV was running, they are hot to the touch I would like to install a small fan across them but I donÂ’t really want to put in a regulator cap etc. when I get time IÂ’m going to look over the Power supply schematic and see if there is some place I can tap in where a little fan noise wonÂ’t cause a problem.
I think a small 5 dcv fan (the old CPU fans) installed at the top across both heat sinks would move enough air to add the extra thermal protection needed. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
I see a lot of people took the whole chassis out when doing a repair/replacement. I got the board out just fine without doing that at all (just take your time and be careful). I marked a piece of paper with all the connections for refernence.
now to work on the sound issue i think that might end up being the harder of the two to pinpoint.
Hello Larry,
I am in the same boat as everyone here. I am ordering the new board today, and wanted to see if I could get the service manual somehow? Or if someone could share the info needed to to realign once installed. Thanks a lot!
It is available here under the resources tab at the top of the page. Go then to technicians corner, click on the available downloads and enjoy.
Got it Larry, thanks! Hopefully this will go as well as some others here. If I read right, the easiest way to remove the board is from the back, right?
By the way, would it do any good, or harm, to try to convergence adjustment before buying the board? Or is this either a waste of time, or just a bad idea for any reason?
thanks
Very very very bad idea!. If you attempt the adjustments that are way out, you will have a heck of a time trying to adjust the set once you get the board or repair the convergence problem.
Ok, wont do that then. I got on the TV, but I am not able to adjust the convergence in any way, so I am pretty sure I need the board. Ordering tomorrow,.
I have ordered the amp convergence board today.
I am going to remove the old one tonight. I have read through this topic about 3 times in full, but want to verify a few things.
I need to remove this from the back, right? I have never taken this tv apart, so I have to figure that out, which shouldnt be hard.
Is it rather noticable once you get into it, or do you have to search for it? Is there something in there that will help me pinpoint where it is?
I have read that some didnt have to do service adjustments after installing, should I assume that I will, or just a crap shoot? It appears that red is the only thing off on mine right now. When i try to adjust the convergence in the menu, blue and green are fine, only red is off.
Thanks.
There are also most likely blow circuit protector fuses blown because of the bad convergence amp IC's on the main power supply board. They do not look like normal fuses but more like resistors. Yes, you take the board out from the back. Look at the service manual carefully before messing with the TV set.
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