Well, never did get to try this. Oddly enough it corrected itself in the middle of watching tv. It started flashing and flickering green and when it stopped, it was a clear pic again. It may just blow up before long, who knows.
Well, its hosed again. Larry, now its ever changing, green, pink, blue, and started flickering some red in there last night. Its like watching tv with the 3d goggles on. Any ideas, I assume the gun isnt out of alignment, since all colors are present now. Currently everything has a green tint, but that may change to red/pink/blue in the next few minutes.... Thanks
I just got my board today and installed. I didn't have any real problems, I wasn't sure at first where to put some of the plugs, and this may have been mentioned before, but I realized while I was trying to plug things back into the board that the plugs on the board are labled R(red)B(blue)G(green) and the cables have colored stripes to identify what color they go with.
I didn't have to make any adjustments, once the new board was in, the picture looked like new!
I have a question about 2 melted square things on my old board, what are these?
Thanks for your help I couldn't have installed it without this forum. Any ideas on what I can do with the old motherboard.
That is always a great thing when things work out for the best. As for the melted square things, If the part identification number is an R like it looks like it is, marked right beside it. Then it is called a potentiameter. I think what you think is melted is a glue they use to seal the adjustment. As for the board, ptscorp.com MAY give you a few bucks for it, You will need to go to the website, get the telephone number and call them to see if it has any value to them.
Larry
Thanks for your help. Here is another picture of those squares:
On the new board they don't look like this; on the new board they aren't glued or melted. Maybe they [samsung] melted them so they couldn't be adjusted?
I have the Samsung HCL4715W. I beleive my daughter pressed the perfect focus button the other day and now the screen zooms in and out and the picture is also concaved or bowed. I have pushed the perfect focus button several times and it has not helped. I have also unplugged the TV several times for more than 5 minutes and that has not helped either. Any ideas? I am a novice but if it is something simple as buying a new board, pulling off the back cover, and replacing I could handle that. After reveiwing the above posts I feel as though I need to purchase the AA95-01846D board but wanted to get your opinion before doing so.
When I first purchased this tv (the same day), I pressed the perfect focus button and it messed up the picture similar to what is happening now although I do not beleive it was zooming in and out like it is now. I beleive Sears just gave me a new TV. So, I have been leary of pushing that button but somehow my daughter found it beside the Audio/Video jacks on the front of the TV.
Larry Dillon said: Should have asked me for the manual. I could have saved you the money for one. If that is the board from Samsung, it cost $107.28. Maybe it is the rebuilt boards?
I'm also having a convergence problem with my Samsung HCL4715 and was wondering if you have a copy of the service manual I could use to try and fix my issue? I have tried to manually fix the convergence and I was able to move the blue but the red will not move at all. Also, the red is bowing down in the middle top of the screen. I am guessing I will have to replace the convergence board and went to partstore.com to order the part. Do you think replacing the board will fix this issue?
I am a computer engineer and not an analog expert or TV technician, but here is my understanding of those two pots using the schematics (10-10 SUB 1, lower right corner) and the service manual text (4-4-4, 4-4-5, and 4-4-6) as reference.
RR471S is used to adjust the high voltage level to 29KV. If this voltage is excessively high, there may be danger of X rays. It requires a 1000:1 high voltage probe to adjust, along with expertise in working safely with high voltages.
RR402S adjusts the Fail-Safe circuit which detects an excessively high voltage and tells the CPU to shut down the high-voltage power supply. It protects the user from X rays caused by a malfunction in the 29KV regulator circuit. If RR402S is set too high, you lose protection. If RR402S is set too low, you get false alarms.
Samsung adjusts these at the factory and then melts the pots with a soldering iron to freeze the adjustments. I believe it is the intention that a replacement board should be adjusted by an expert after replacement, who then freezes the adjustments by melting the pots.
Since I am not an expert, I don't know if the X ray danger is serious or if the manual exaggerates the danger for liability protection.
Hey guys I've been reading all your chats back and forth and you all helped me as well i just have a minnie problem I have a samsung pcl5415 that had ghost images not no more because i replaced the the board and i only have one issue the TINT option is in RED and when i try to adjust it nothing happens any suggestions??????
Hello guys, I have been reading your messages to try to help me out with my Samsung HCL652W 65 in. Rear Projection tv that has convergence problems too. I replaced my old board with a new board (AA95-01846D) from partstore.com when I placed my new board in the tv the three lights do not turn on so there's no image on the TV. I put the old board back in to try to figure out if it was the new board; the three lights turn on with the old board and not with the new one. Should I try to exchange the new board from partstore.com for a good one? Or is there an additional step that I'm missing. I'll appreciate any help that you guys can provide me with. Thanks.
mariposa said: Hello guys, I have been reading your messages to try to help me out with my Samsung HCL652W 65 in. Rear Projection tv that has convergence problems too. I replaced my old board with a new board (AA95-01846D) from partstore.com when I placed my new board in the tv the three lights do not turn on so there's no image on the TV. I put the old board back in to try to figure out if it was the new board; the three lights turn on with the old board and not with the new one. Should I try to exchange the new board from partstore.com for a good one? Or is there an additional step that I'm missing. I'll appreciate any help that you guys can provide me with. Thanks.
I am a computer engineer and not an analog expert or TV technician, but here's a long-shot possibility. The convergence/power board (called "SUB" in the schematics) has two potentiometers that are used to adjust the 29KV regulator circuit. One sets the 29KV voltage level and the other sets a fail-safe point that turns off the high-voltage power supply if the 29KV level is too high and could cause the TV to emit harmful X rays. See my July 19th post for details.
These potentometers are normally set at the factory and melted with a soldering iron once they are set correctly. A replacement board won't have been adjusted to your TV. koolzero managed to get his SUB board to work OK the first time, so his pots must have been set to values that do not trip the fail safe, though there is a possibility that he has the HV too high and is being exposed to X rays.
In your case it's possible that the pots are not set correctly and that's what's causing the probem, but as I said it's a long shot and I'm not a TV expert. I think this is what you should look for: when you turn on the TV you should hear Relay 811S on the SUB board turn on which turns on the main power supply and you'll probably hear the high voltage stuff turn on with a hiss. If this relay almost immediately turns off, then it may be the fail-safe circuit kicking in. It drives a signal called PROTECT on the SUB board which goes to the CPU card to tell it to turn the main power supply off.
Sections 4-4-4 through 4-4-6 describe how how to adjust the 29KV circuit and the fail-safe point. I would not personally adjust them myself, because I don't have the equipment or experience, and 29KV scares the #$%@ out of me. However, if you have a digital scope that can catch a pulse, you can probe the PROTECT signal fairly easily and see if it's pulsing high. Also, the fail-safe adjustment is low voltage, so you could at least check the 2.25V as described in 4-4-5. The SUB board has lots of high voltages around, so be very careful. I like to attach jumpers to signals of interest with the power off and probe remotely. If you play with the pots (which I do not recommend unless you really know what you're doing), mark their initial positions first.
Hope this helps. If it's not PROTECT, I have no idea what the problem is and will leave it to others on the list.
ctfortner said: Well, its hosed again. Larry, now its ever changing, green, pink, blue, and started flickering some red in there last night. Its like watching tv with the 3d goggles on. Any ideas, I assume the gun isnt out of alignment, since all colors are present now. Currently everything has a green tint, but that may change to red/pink/blue in the next few minutes.... Thanks
ctfortner,
Did you ever get this resolved? My HCL4715W just started similar symptoms a few days ago. I get flashing horizontal red lines or bars, usually all the way across the screen. It's worst when I first turn on the TV, and then they settle down as it warms up. Except for the flashes, the picture is superb.
I figured I'd ask you and the list before I start digging in the schematics. (My SWAG at this point is another drop of CRT oil weakly shorting out some digital lines somewhere. But I really haven't started looking and haven't spent any time in the digital video sections of the schematic.)
I have Akai pth5498, with convergence problems. after spending a great deal reading some older posts, ordered a AA95-01799g board. Can someone tell me exactly where it is located. One post said in one of the metal containers on the left board of the 3.
I was able to fix the problem I had with flashing horizontal red lines and bars. My guess was correct, that it was CRT oil weaking shorting signals togther. In this case, it was not a single drop of CRT oil, but rather a film that covered a large area of my Main board near the RGB cable that goes to the CRT boards. I couldn't see the film except that it reflected differently, but I could feel an oily surface on the board. I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol swabs and Q-tips, and that fixed the problem.
I would welcome suggestions as to the best solvent for cleaning off CRT oil, as I suspect this will be a recurring problem.
Help! We were given a Samsung HCL4715W widescreen HDTV. It had a severe convergence issue, so based on previous posts, we installed a new convergence board.
But, dag, if this thing is so messed up, we just need to hit a big red reset button on every setting there is. The convergence is all over the place, wavy lines, off center - sigh.
To make our pain worse, we didn't get the remote with the tv, so we're working with a Logitech programmable that doesn't quite have all the buttons referenced in the service manual.
Does anyone know what we can do to hit that big reset? We can get into a service menu, but we do not see settings for deflection or offsets, just basic convergence from MUTE 182 or MUTE 183.
Can anyone help? Are we lost without the real remote?
Also, SOMEONE was fiddling with the remote we have, and now the alignment grids are gone. We put it into Perfect Focus, and it's taking forever. How long should it take? Thanks
Hello, I'm wondering if this thread is still being monitored. I recently acquired a HCL4715W TV, and it won't power on. I called a local friend/TV repairman and he came over, removed the deflection board with the STK chips on it, checked over some resistors and things and found some problems, but when installed it still didnt work and we were still not getting high voltage.
So I bought a new deflection board and hooked it up today, attached all of the cords except for a green ground cable. The cable is the green long cable, when looking in from the rear of the TV, it runs from the board that has the power cable on it, which is the farthest right. After I hit the power button, I think what I heard was the flyback kicking on and then some flickering from the tubes, and then nothing. I did however see a light amount of smoke, which may or may not be associated with something devastating, I don't know. Anyway, I then came upstairs, found some pictures of the location of that ground cable to the farthest left board and hooked it up.
I then plugged it back in, and got a repeated clicking from something inside, like it kept trying to fire up, but still did not. I'm wondering if I may have damaged the new board without the ground, but I was under the impression that it would do no damage to try. I noticed somewhere between 3 and 5 resistors on the board glowing, I could identify the numbers if needed (before the ground). After the ground was hooked up, I tried it again about 30 mins later and this time got a pop from the right side of the deflection board, but still clicked repeatedly. Now its doing the exact same thing as the other board, still no picture, but now doesnt repeatedly click.
I'm pretty sure I destroyed this deflection board and hoping that if that ground wouldnt destroy the board, you would have an idea of how I can check to see if this board is destroyed, and could lead me in a direction of what might cause this problem? I'd really appreciate any input, I'd like to make this TV work but have quickly deflated myself :). Thank you for reading this novel.
you crtainly could or did pop the board. if you saw resitors glowing and something poped!Maybe you have a plug connected wrong? Return the board as maybe the board is defecive, it sounds like the STK IC's are bad?I am confused though you stated that you checked some things over and found some problems, did you repair the board or get a rebuilt board? if you only replaced some resitors, you nee to alo replace he convergence iC's also.
Well I did replace the board, after trying to repair the initial one because my tech friend found a few bad resistors and things, but we were still not getting the high voltage, so he said it's either 1 of two things, or possibly both. Either the Flyback transformer is bad or its the signal board, because those are the things that would control the voltage. But now I heard what I think is the high voltage and things got burnt. I'm wondering if this is even worth the repair now, because I will probably need a few more hours of diag and then a new deflection board because now I'm getting the same empty click as before.
Would one unhooked ground that doesnt even ground on the deflection board cause this type of damage? It runs from the power board on the right, all the way to a ground post right behind the connections panel on the back of the TV, looking in from the rear. Do you think that did it? I'd hate to spend another $85 on a new deflection board and fry that one as well. Thanks for the quick reply Larry I really appreciate it.
for good measure the only connection that was off was that ground. Everything else connects one way and I missed no others. I feel like a fool but found that cable afterward and started cursing myself. I'm certain everything was right because its all color coded and labeled on the board too.
Well Larry I found my problem. The green tube leaked coolant down inside of the yoke and to the board that connects at the end of the tube. There was a line of resistors that failed on that board, which probably accounts for the pop I heard yesterday, and possibly the smoke I smelled. At any rate, the new deflection board had a few burnt resistors because of the short, and also one of the transistors was bad as well. I removed the power board from the unit and gifted it to the tech that originally diagnosed it, and also the new deflection board. The red tube and blue tube are still in it, I will most likely remove them and offer them on eBay or something, seeing as I'm not dropping several hundred more dollars into this unit and theres no guarantee how the picture will be.
Unless someone has any ideas on a cheap fix, the shell will be at the curb next week. Anyone need any parts off it? Cheap! LOL
Well again I changed my mind. I found the the deflection yoke and the module that is on the bottom are cheap to replace, so I ordered them and the boards are back here, waiting on these new parts and some free time. I should be able to put it all together in about an hour or so.
Do you have any other ideas or things I should check before I power it back on again? The yoke will be new, everything clean and dry, and I'm going to re-seal this tube so it doesnt leak again. In the little plastic overflow area there is water or coolant, what do you suggest as the best way to seal and prevent coolant loss? I may also be interested in adding a fan to the board for the STK chips, can you use a normal PC case fan?
If I gave you the numbers of the resistors on the deflection board would you be able to determine if replacing the yoke and module is the right step? The other two tubes are not leaking and show no signs of shorts or blown resistors.
I'd recommend checking the voltages from the power supply board before you power on the high voltage board to make sure you haven't blown any of the small fuses on the power supply board. You can do this with the power supply board disconnected from the other boards by using a jumper to simulate the action of the relay on the high voltage board. This is a 120V circuit in USA. While the power supply board doesn't have tens of KVs like the high-voltage board, there are plenty of lethal voltage and currents so be careful.
Please help. I can enter the service mode and align my convergence, and get a good picture. However, I cannot seem to exit the service mode and store/keep the settings. How do you exit service and keep the settings?
Well, never did get to try this. Oddly enough it corrected itself in the middle of watching tv. It started flashing and flickering green and when it stopped, it was a clear pic again. It may just blow up before long, who knows.
Well, its hosed again. Larry, now its ever changing, green, pink, blue, and started flickering some red in there last night. Its like watching tv with the 3d goggles on. Any ideas, I assume the gun isnt out of alignment, since all colors are present now. Currently everything has a green tint, but that may change to red/pink/blue in the next few minutes.... Thanks
I just got my board today and installed. I didn't have any real problems, I wasn't sure at first where to put some of the plugs, and this may have been mentioned before, but I realized while I was trying to plug things back into the board that the plugs on the board are labled R(red)B(blue)G(green) and the cables have colored stripes to identify what color they go with.
I didn't have to make any adjustments, once the new board was in, the picture looked like new!
I have a question about 2 melted square things on my old board, what are these?
Thanks for your help I couldn't have installed it without this forum. Any ideas on what I can do with the old motherboard.
That is always a great thing when things work out for the best. As for the melted square things, If the part identification number is an R like it looks like it is, marked right beside it. Then it is called a potentiameter. I think what you think is melted is a glue they use to seal the adjustment. As for the board, ptscorp.com MAY give you a few bucks for it, You will need to go to the website, get the telephone number and call them to see if it has any value to them.
Larry
Thanks for your help. Here is another picture of those squares:
On the new board they don't look like this; on the new board they aren't glued or melted. Maybe they [samsung] melted them so they couldn't be adjusted?
Yes Samsung melted these so no one could turn hem, they are part of a critical circuit. nothing to worry about.
I can hear the televison change channels but no picture.I ad a guy come over to look and he advised the televison tube leaked
Larry,
I have the Samsung HCL4715W. I beleive my daughter pressed the perfect focus button the other day and now the screen zooms in and out and the picture is also concaved or bowed. I have pushed the perfect focus button several times and it has not helped. I have also unplugged the TV several times for more than 5 minutes and that has not helped either. Any ideas? I am a novice but if it is something simple as buying a new board, pulling off the back cover, and replacing I could handle that. After reveiwing the above posts I feel as though I need to purchase the AA95-01846D board but wanted to get your opinion before doing so.
When I first purchased this tv (the same day), I pressed the perfect focus button and it messed up the picture similar to what is happening now although I do not beleive it was zooming in and out like it is now. I beleive Sears just gave me a new TV. So, I have been leary of pushing that button but somehow my daughter found it beside the Audio/Video jacks on the front of the TV.
Thank You!
I'm also having a convergence problem with my Samsung HCL4715 and was wondering if you have a copy of the service manual I could use to try and fix my issue? I have tried to manually fix the convergence and I was able to move the blue but the red will not move at all. Also, the red is bowing down in the middle top of the screen. I am guessing I will have to replace the convergence board and went to partstore.com to order the part. Do you think replacing the board will fix this issue?
Thanks for any help you can give!
I am a computer engineer and not an analog expert or TV technician, but here is my understanding of those two pots using the schematics (10-10 SUB 1, lower right corner) and the service manual text (4-4-4, 4-4-5, and 4-4-6) as reference.
RR471S is used to adjust the high voltage level to 29KV. If this voltage is excessively high, there may be danger of X rays. It requires a 1000:1 high voltage probe to adjust, along with expertise in working safely with high voltages.
RR402S adjusts the Fail-Safe circuit which detects an excessively high voltage and tells the CPU to shut down the high-voltage power supply. It protects the user from X rays caused by a malfunction in the 29KV regulator circuit. If RR402S is set too high, you lose protection. If RR402S is set too low, you get false alarms.
Samsung adjusts these at the factory and then melts the pots with a soldering iron to freeze the adjustments. I believe it is the intention that a replacement board should be adjusted by an expert after replacement, who then freezes the adjustments by melting the pots.
Since I am not an expert, I don't know if the X ray danger is serious or if the manual exaggerates the danger for liability protection.
I replaced the board (AA95-01846D) and it now works again!!
Thanks for everybody's help on this board!
Hey guys I've been reading all your chats back and forth and you all helped me as well i just have a minnie problem I have a samsung pcl5415 that had ghost images not no more because i replaced the the board and i only have one issue the TINT option is in RED and when i try to adjust it nothing happens any suggestions??????
Hello guys, I have been reading your messages to try to help me out with my Samsung HCL652W 65 in. Rear Projection tv that has convergence problems too. I replaced my old board with a new board (AA95-01846D) from partstore.com when I placed my new board in the tv the three lights do not turn on so there's no image on the TV. I put the old board back in to try to figure out if it was the new board; the three lights turn on with the old board and not with the new one. Should I try to exchange the new board from partstore.com for a good one? Or is there an additional step that I'm missing. I'll appreciate any help that you guys can provide me with. Thanks.
I am a computer engineer and not an analog expert or TV technician, but here's a long-shot possibility. The convergence/power board (called "SUB" in the schematics) has two potentiometers that are used to adjust the 29KV regulator circuit. One sets the 29KV voltage level and the other sets a fail-safe point that turns off the high-voltage power supply if the 29KV level is too high and could cause the TV to emit harmful X rays. See my July 19th post for details.
These potentometers are normally set at the factory and melted with a soldering iron once they are set correctly. A replacement board won't have been adjusted to your TV. koolzero managed to get his SUB board to work OK the first time, so his pots must have been set to values that do not trip the fail safe, though there is a possibility that he has the HV too high and is being exposed to X rays.
In your case it's possible that the pots are not set correctly and that's what's causing the probem, but as I said it's a long shot and I'm not a TV expert. I think this is what you should look for: when you turn on the TV you should hear Relay 811S on the SUB board turn on which turns on the main power supply and you'll probably hear the high voltage stuff turn on with a hiss. If this relay almost immediately turns off, then it may be the fail-safe circuit kicking in. It drives a signal called PROTECT on the SUB board which goes to the CPU card to tell it to turn the main power supply off.
Sections 4-4-4 through 4-4-6 describe how how to adjust the 29KV circuit and the fail-safe point. I would not personally adjust them myself, because I don't have the equipment or experience, and 29KV scares the #$%@ out of me. However, if you have a digital scope that can catch a pulse, you can probe the PROTECT signal fairly easily and see if it's pulsing high. Also, the fail-safe adjustment is low voltage, so you could at least check the 2.25V as described in 4-4-5. The SUB board has lots of high voltages around, so be very careful. I like to attach jumpers to signals of interest with the power off and probe remotely. If you play with the pots (which I do not recommend unless you really know what you're doing), mark their initial positions first.
Hope this helps. If it's not PROTECT, I have no idea what the problem is and will leave it to others on the list.
ctfortner,
Did you ever get this resolved? My HCL4715W just started similar symptoms a few days ago. I get flashing horizontal red lines or bars, usually all the way across the screen. It's worst when I first turn on the TV, and then they settle down as it warms up. Except for the flashes, the picture is superb.
I figured I'd ask you and the list before I start digging in the schematics. (My SWAG at this point is another drop of CRT oil weakly shorting out some digital lines somewhere. But I really haven't started looking and haven't spent any time in the digital video sections of the schematic.)
Thanks,
John
I do NOT replace the convergence drive boards, I fix them. Thats he bestt way I think. DO NOT MESS with any factory board alighnments
I have Akai pth5498, with convergence problems. after spending a great deal reading some older posts, ordered a AA95-01799g board. Can someone tell me exactly where it is located. One post said in one of the metal containers on the left board of the 3.
Hi!
I was able to fix the problem I had with flashing horizontal red lines and bars. My guess was correct, that it was CRT oil weaking shorting signals togther. In this case, it was not a single drop of CRT oil, but rather a film that covered a large area of my Main board near the RGB cable that goes to the CRT boards. I couldn't see the film except that it reflected differently, but I could feel an oily surface on the board. I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol swabs and Q-tips, and that fixed the problem.
I would welcome suggestions as to the best solvent for cleaning off CRT oil, as I suspect this will be a recurring problem.
Help! We were given a Samsung HCL4715W widescreen HDTV. It had a severe convergence issue, so based on previous posts, we installed a new convergence board.
But, dag, if this thing is so messed up, we just need to hit a big red reset button on every setting there is. The convergence is all over the place, wavy lines, off center - sigh.
To make our pain worse, we didn't get the remote with the tv, so we're working with a Logitech programmable that doesn't quite have all the buttons referenced in the service manual.
Does anyone know what we can do to hit that big reset? We can get into a service menu, but we do not see settings for deflection or offsets, just basic convergence from MUTE 182 or MUTE 183.
Can anyone help? Are we lost without the real remote?
Also, SOMEONE was fiddling with the remote we have, and now the alignment grids are gone. We put it into Perfect Focus, and it's taking forever. How long should it take? Thanks
Hello, I'm wondering if this thread is still being monitored. I recently acquired a HCL4715W TV, and it won't power on. I called a local friend/TV repairman and he came over, removed the deflection board with the STK chips on it, checked over some resistors and things and found some problems, but when installed it still didnt work and we were still not getting high voltage.
So I bought a new deflection board and hooked it up today, attached all of the cords except for a green ground cable. The cable is the green long cable, when looking in from the rear of the TV, it runs from the board that has the power cable on it, which is the farthest right. After I hit the power button, I think what I heard was the flyback kicking on and then some flickering from the tubes, and then nothing. I did however see a light amount of smoke, which may or may not be associated with something devastating, I don't know. Anyway, I then came upstairs, found some pictures of the location of that ground cable to the farthest left board and hooked it up.
I then plugged it back in, and got a repeated clicking from something inside, like it kept trying to fire up, but still did not. I'm wondering if I may have damaged the new board without the ground, but I was under the impression that it would do no damage to try. I noticed somewhere between 3 and 5 resistors on the board glowing, I could identify the numbers if needed (before the ground). After the ground was hooked up, I tried it again about 30 mins later and this time got a pop from the right side of the deflection board, but still clicked repeatedly. Now its doing the exact same thing as the other board, still no picture, but now doesnt repeatedly click.
I'm pretty sure I destroyed this deflection board and hoping that if that ground wouldnt destroy the board, you would have an idea of how I can check to see if this board is destroyed, and could lead me in a direction of what might cause this problem? I'd really appreciate any input, I'd like to make this TV work but have quickly deflated myself :). Thank you for reading this novel.
you crtainly could or did pop the board. if you saw resitors glowing and something poped!Maybe you have a plug connected wrong? Return the board as maybe the board is defecive, it sounds like the STK IC's are bad?I am confused though you stated that you checked some things over and found some problems, did you repair the board or get a rebuilt board? if you only replaced some resitors, you nee to alo replace he convergence iC's also.
Well I did replace the board, after trying to repair the initial one because my tech friend found a few bad resistors and things, but we were still not getting the high voltage, so he said it's either 1 of two things, or possibly both. Either the Flyback transformer is bad or its the signal board, because those are the things that would control the voltage. But now I heard what I think is the high voltage and things got burnt. I'm wondering if this is even worth the repair now, because I will probably need a few more hours of diag and then a new deflection board because now I'm getting the same empty click as before.
Would one unhooked ground that doesnt even ground on the deflection board cause this type of damage? It runs from the power board on the right, all the way to a ground post right behind the connections panel on the back of the TV, looking in from the rear. Do you think that did it? I'd hate to spend another $85 on a new deflection board and fry that one as well. Thanks for the quick reply Larry I really appreciate it.
for good measure the only connection that was off was that ground. Everything else connects one way and I missed no others. I feel like a fool but found that cable afterward and started cursing myself. I'm certain everything was right because its all color coded and labeled on the board too.
th convrgence IC's on that board will stop it from working also. Never had a bad flyback in thi sset and I have done a lo of them.In the shop
Well Larry I found my problem. The green tube leaked coolant down inside of the yoke and to the board that connects at the end of the tube. There was a line of resistors that failed on that board, which probably accounts for the pop I heard yesterday, and possibly the smoke I smelled. At any rate, the new deflection board had a few burnt resistors because of the short, and also one of the transistors was bad as well. I removed the power board from the unit and gifted it to the tech that originally diagnosed it, and also the new deflection board. The red tube and blue tube are still in it, I will most likely remove them and offer them on eBay or something, seeing as I'm not dropping several hundred more dollars into this unit and theres no guarantee how the picture will be.
Unless someone has any ideas on a cheap fix, the shell will be at the curb next week. Anyone need any parts off it? Cheap! LOL
Thanks again
Ryan
Well again I changed my mind. I found the the deflection yoke and the module that is on the bottom are cheap to replace, so I ordered them and the boards are back here, waiting on these new parts and some free time. I should be able to put it all together in about an hour or so.
Do you have any other ideas or things I should check before I power it back on again? The yoke will be new, everything clean and dry, and I'm going to re-seal this tube so it doesnt leak again. In the little plastic overflow area there is water or coolant, what do you suggest as the best way to seal and prevent coolant loss? I may also be interested in adding a fan to the board for the STK chips, can you use a normal PC case fan?
If I gave you the numbers of the resistors on the deflection board would you be able to determine if replacing the yoke and module is the right step? The other two tubes are not leaking and show no signs of shorts or blown resistors.
Ryan,
I'd recommend checking the voltages from the power supply board before you power on the high voltage board to make sure you haven't blown any of the small fuses on the power supply board. You can do this with the power supply board disconnected from the other boards by using a jumper to simulate the action of the relay on the high voltage board. This is a 120V circuit in USA. While the power supply board doesn't have tens of KVs like the high-voltage board, there are plenty of lethal voltage and currents so be careful.
Please help. I can enter the service mode and align my convergence, and get a good picture. However, I cannot seem to exit the service mode and store/keep the settings. How do you exit service and keep the settings?
Thank you.
oh Geez, I do not remember, I would have to read the service manual as it does explain it in detail.
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