I'm currecntly having my 62527 (almost 3 yrs old) checked out by a TV Shop, and they have been looking at it for the past few days (Blinking Light and unable to to turn on/off, or anything else for that matter), it was fried by a power surge.
The TV Shop said that they are now looking at the DM Board, does anyone know exactly what the DM Board is or what it does?
Larry, hope you still check this. We have a Mitsubishi WS-55813. The green blinking light of death has hit our set and we miss it horribly. I am pretty handy and want a shot at fixing this instead of paying the local guy 450! Please send along instructions! Thanks in advance for being
Late to the game said: Larry, hope you still check this. We have a Mitsubishi WS-55813. The green blinking light of death has hit our set and we miss it horribly. I am pretty handy and want a shot at fixing this instead of paying the local guy 450! Please send along instructions! Thanks in advance for being
Would it be possible to forward any information you have on the blinking green light issue.
Late to the game said: Larry, hope you still check this. We have a Mitsubishi WS-55813. The green blinking light of death has hit our set and we miss it horribly. I am pretty handy and want a shot at fixing this instead of paying the local guy 450! Please send along instructions! Thanks in advance for being
Would it be possible to forward any information you have on the blinking green light issue.
I have a Mitsu 55511 that started the blinking green light thing about a month ago and the guy at the repair shop has had it for 3 wks. Date on the back reads 2003. Can you please send me the fix.
Thanks!!!! [email protected]
I've noticed some other posts in this thread relating to losing video/audio on this line of TV's (NOT the blinking-green-light-of-death). I fixed my set last night, so I thought I would share some pointers.
For the record, I also had the BGLOD about a year ago, which I was also able to fix. Then about a month ago, my screen just started going blank (some very faint lines visible) but the green light stayed on. Scouring forums like this led me to the solution. Replacing a 9V regulator, labeled as "IC9C25", on the signal board. If you have the service manual, see the schematic on page 96 ("signal 2"), towards the bottom next to connector "JA".
To get to this part:
- remove screws holding main panel on rear of TV
- remove ALL screws holding plastic panel that surround all of the inputs, including the screws next to DVI port and PC input port (this is a vertical PCB that plugs into terminal JA on the signal board).
- the chassis will need to slide out a bit in order to get proper access. On my WS55813, I needed to remove a single screw, right in the center of the chassis at the very rear of the TV, then lift the retainer clips on both sides of the chassis to slide it out a bit. I also needed to remove a few wire harnesses that were pulling tight, preventing me from sliding the chassis out. If you remove a wire harness from it's plug, wrap a piece of tape around it or something so you remember to plug it back in when you re-assemble.
- remove screws that hold down the vertical PCB support brackets (single screw in each bracket going into signal board)
- with a little effort, the vertical support brackets and the plastic cover around all of the input jacks can be removed, exposing the input PCB (vertically mounted PCB).
- gently lift vertical PCB straight up off of signal PCB to expose the part in question (IC9C25) which is near terminal JA, right corner of signal board.
- The regulator on my set looked like it was toast. The solder was brown and corroded. I never bothered checking to see what the output voltage was as I was hesitant to plug in my set with everything taken apart.
- Remove IC9C25. This is a small, 3-terminal, 9 VDC regulator with some decoupling caps in each side of it. I replaced it with a similar part (the original part is made by Rohm, mfg. p/n BA09FP in TO252-3 type package, otherwise known as DPAK)...the part I used is digi-key p/n 497-4244-1-ND. Part removal is simple, all you need is a soldering iron, solder wick, and a pair of snips. Snip the two small legs, desolder the large ground tab, and remove the part. Heat up the two pads where the remainder of the two small legs are to clean up the pads. Place new part and reflow the solder, maybe add a little extra solder to get a good connection.
- That's it. Just re-assemble in reverse order.
This fix was a bit of a pain. Replacing the part is easy...getting to it was the tricky part. The hardest part was removing the vertically-mounted input board. I really hope this post helps others who are having the same problem.
And for those of you having the blinking green light problem....if you have a little technical know-how and the right tools, you CAN fix it! Ask Larry nicely, and he will share the service manual with you. You don't really need it for the fix, but it will help with disassembly. I replaced 4 bad capacitors on the DM module, using caps from digi-key (p/n 493-1526-ND). I wrote a summary of my repair on another board. Here is the link, look for post from "zanto" on 6-4-08.
Having Problem with blinking green light on WS-55859. Can you send me the instructions to fix? Read through most threads and have a good idea what to do.
Thanks in advance. Brad [email protected]
i need help with blinking light WD-52525; it use to go out after unplugging over night or if i hit the reset button. now i cant get the light to go out at all.
I have a mitsi WD 62525 and have been told that I need to replace the capacitors. Do you have any detailed guidence to share? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have a WD-52525 with the constant blinking green timer light. Can you send me instructions for the repair? Please send them to cmfunks(at)verizon.net.
Sounds like your the life saver for all. Need your help. Ive been calling around on the G.L.O.D. and I can not find anyone cheaper than $900.00 to do the repair. I heard it cost less than $10.00 to fix the rest of that expense in labor. Cant afford that! I realy dont know how to do repairs on a TV but if there is any help you can offer, it will be excepted!! = )
Please email me at [email protected]
I have the Mitshibishi WD62725. Please send me the info on correcting the green blinking light issue. You're a good man for helping out to do it ourselves!
hi larry, i am having the same problem as eveyone else i have a mitsubishi wd-62525 with a blinking green timer light.if you could please send me instructions on how fix the problem i would really appreciate your help.thank you vey much for your time.
we need your e-mail address please I cannot send the directions and manual here as it is too large, make sure your provider lets your e-mail accept over 650 meg of files
sorry we do not repair this model it has way too many problems that the way too complicated, not one out of 150 kits we sold for these DLP set were repaired so we had ti give refunds bipfor the repair kits average Joe
Here ya go. I have attached the documents you requested including the factory service manual so you can see how the TV set comes apart and also when you fix your TV set, you can see how the front screen comes off so you can clean the mirrors and lens. First Check the input video diodes. You will find them on the FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be week from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 3 to 5 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. If you do repair your TV set, I am asking for a
Small donation, nothing big, maybe 25 bucks or whatever you think is fair to help me pay for my Internet cost and the manuals I give out. Because I do not get or receive any compensation from anyone other than donations. and this is the only thing I can do to help me keep my internet connection and help at this time since my brain cancer surgery and radiation and chemo treatments as I am not allowed to work or drive because of the seizures. If you do wish to help out and donate, please use my e-mail address at pay pal. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask me Via E-mail. Good Luck Go here to find the right capacitors you need: at least two of the 3300 caps and at least 10 to 12 1000MFD caps.http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgT..., you can also contact me directly here if you need any assistance. Another thing If you replace all of the capacitors and the set still does not work Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002 also Try removing the USB connector on the chassis and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then the reader is badanother trick is to,Try disconnecting the FC connector to the FMT board and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then suspect the FMT card. or the caps on this board if all else fails: Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. If it has no hard drive just watch the green LED Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done
1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921001 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking we need your e-mail address please
I am also having trouble with the Blinking green light on my Mitsu. WS-55613. could you please send the repair instructions to my e-mail at ([email protected]).
I sure would appriciate the help.
It appears that I am not immune to the problem with MITS. I have a WS65 and have the same issue, please forward the repair instructions to me as well: [email protected]
Larry, I am too having the blinking green light on my mit. WS-55511. could you send me as well instructions and whereabouts to get the materials needed. thanks I am in your debt. I had a tv repare guy look at it and he quoted me $900.00 to fix. My email is
I have replaced the 9v regulator ( BA09 ) and I am not getting 9 volts output. I have confirmed that there is 12 volts going in, but I am only getting 10 mva on the other side. What gives? It is a new part and I thought I was careful about soldering it on the PCB. I used a heat sink and did not spend too much time after the solder flowed. Thing is, it is the second regulator I have tried. Could I have got two bad ones in a row?
(EDIT) Tried reading voltages again and did finally get 9 volts. Maybe the caps had completely discharged? I don't know.
I am considering buying a WD 52725 for $100. It also has the blinking green light of death..Curious on how much the parts are to fix this myself. And if you have any diagrams on how to do so?
Larry, I too have the blinking green light on my ws65813. Could you please send me the repair instrutions to [email protected]. Thank you.
I'm currecntly having my 62527 (almost 3 yrs old) checked out by a TV Shop, and they have been looking at it for the past few days (Blinking Light and unable to to turn on/off, or anything else for that matter), it was fried by a power surge.
The TV Shop said that they are now looking at the DM Board, does anyone know exactly what the DM Board is or what it does?
Having Problem with blinking green light on WD-62725. Can you send me the instructions to fix? Thanks.
[email protected]
Can Someone send me instructions to Fix blinking green light on WD-62725? Thanks.
[email protected]
Larry, hope you still check this. We have a Mitsubishi WS-55813. The green blinking light of death has hit our set and we miss it horribly. I am pretty handy and want a shot at fixing this instead of paying the local guy 450! Please send along instructions! Thanks in advance for being
Hi, I'm also part of teh frustrated blinking green like crew. Would it be possible to send me any repair information you may have.
mine is a blinking green timer light
thansk a bunch
Would it be possible to forward any information you have on the blinking green light issue.
Much appreciated
[email protected]
Would it be possible to forward any information you have on the blinking green light issue.
Much appreciated
[email protected]
I have a Mitsu 55511 that started the blinking green light thing about a month ago and the guy at the repair shop has had it for 3 wks. Date on the back reads 2003. Can you please send me the fix.
Thanks!!!!
[email protected]
I've noticed some other posts in this thread relating to losing video/audio on this line of TV's (NOT the blinking-green-light-of-death). I fixed my set last night, so I thought I would share some pointers.
For the record, I also had the BGLOD about a year ago, which I was also able to fix. Then about a month ago, my screen just started going blank (some very faint lines visible) but the green light stayed on. Scouring forums like this led me to the solution. Replacing a 9V regulator, labeled as "IC9C25", on the signal board. If you have the service manual, see the schematic on page 96 ("signal 2"), towards the bottom next to connector "JA".
To get to this part:
- remove screws holding main panel on rear of TV
- remove ALL screws holding plastic panel that surround all of the inputs, including the screws next to DVI port and PC input port (this is a vertical PCB that plugs into terminal JA on the signal board).
- the chassis will need to slide out a bit in order to get proper access. On my WS55813, I needed to remove a single screw, right in the center of the chassis at the very rear of the TV, then lift the retainer clips on both sides of the chassis to slide it out a bit. I also needed to remove a few wire harnesses that were pulling tight, preventing me from sliding the chassis out. If you remove a wire harness from it's plug, wrap a piece of tape around it or something so you remember to plug it back in when you re-assemble.
- remove screws that hold down the vertical PCB support brackets (single screw in each bracket going into signal board)
- with a little effort, the vertical support brackets and the plastic cover around all of the input jacks can be removed, exposing the input PCB (vertically mounted PCB).
- gently lift vertical PCB straight up off of signal PCB to expose the part in question (IC9C25) which is near terminal JA, right corner of signal board.
- The regulator on my set looked like it was toast. The solder was brown and corroded. I never bothered checking to see what the output voltage was as I was hesitant to plug in my set with everything taken apart.
- Remove IC9C25. This is a small, 3-terminal, 9 VDC regulator with some decoupling caps in each side of it. I replaced it with a similar part (the original part is made by Rohm, mfg. p/n BA09FP in TO252-3 type package, otherwise known as DPAK)...the part I used is digi-key p/n 497-4244-1-ND. Part removal is simple, all you need is a soldering iron, solder wick, and a pair of snips. Snip the two small legs, desolder the large ground tab, and remove the part. Heat up the two pads where the remainder of the two small legs are to clean up the pads. Place new part and reflow the solder, maybe add a little extra solder to get a good connection.
- That's it. Just re-assemble in reverse order.
This fix was a bit of a pain. Replacing the part is easy...getting to it was the tricky part. The hardest part was removing the vertically-mounted input board. I really hope this post helps others who are having the same problem.
And for those of you having the blinking green light problem....if you have a little technical know-how and the right tools, you CAN fix it! Ask Larry nicely, and he will share the service manual with you. You don't really need it for the fix, but it will help with disassembly. I replaced 4 bad capacitors on the DM module, using caps from digi-key (p/n 493-1526-ND). I wrote a summary of my repair on another board. Here is the link, look for post from "zanto" on 6-4-08.
http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186&page=2&pp=20
Having Problem with blinking green light on WS-55859. Can you send me the instructions to fix? Read through most threads and have a good idea what to do.
Thanks in advance. Brad
[email protected]
i need help with blinking light WD-52525; it use to go out after unplugging over night or if i hit the reset button. now i cant get the light to go out at all.
[email protected]
thanks,
Peter
I have a mitsi WD 62525 and have been told that I need to replace the capacitors. Do you have any detailed guidence to share? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Please send me the instructions on how to fix my DM Board on my Mitsubishi tv. The model # is WS-65869. My email address is [email protected]
Larry,
I have a WD-52525 with the constant blinking green timer light. Can you send me instructions for the repair? Please send them to cmfunks(at)verizon.net.
Thanks!
I need help with blinking light WD-52725, started a few months ago now it won't turn on at all.
[email protected]
thanks,
Chris
Larry,
Sounds like your the life saver for all. Need your help. Ive been calling around on the G.L.O.D. and I can not find anyone cheaper than $900.00 to do the repair. I heard it cost less than $10.00 to fix the rest of that expense in labor. Cant afford that! I realy dont know how to do repairs on a TV but if there is any help you can offer, it will be excepted!! = )
Please email me at [email protected]
Thank you
Hi Larry,
I have the Mitshibishi WD62725. Please send me the info on correcting the green blinking light issue. You're a good man for helping out to do it ourselves!
Thanks,
Mayra
[email protected]
sorry Larry my email is [email protected]
thanks
Hi Larry,
Just got the blinking light, I would appreciate it greatly if you could send me the info for model WD62525. Thanks for your help.
Jim
email: [email protected]
hi larry, i am having the same problem as eveyone else i have a mitsubishi wd-62525 with a blinking green timer light.if you could please send me instructions on how fix the problem i would really appreciate your help.thank you vey much for your time.
we need your e-mail address please I cannot send the directions and manual here as it is too large, make sure your provider lets your e-mail accept over 650 meg of files
sorry we do not repair this model it has way too many problems that the way too complicated, not one out of 150 kits we sold for these DLP set were repaired so we had ti give refunds bipfor the repair kits average Joe
Here ya go. I have attached the documents you requested including the factory service manual so you can see how the TV set comes apart and also when you fix your TV set, you can see how the front screen comes off so you can clean the mirrors and lens. First Check the input video diodes. You will find them on the FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be week from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 3 to 5 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. If you do repair your TV set, I am asking for a
Small donation, nothing big, maybe 25 bucks or whatever you think is fair to help me pay for my Internet cost and the manuals I give out. Because I do not get or receive any compensation from anyone other than donations. and this is the only thing I can do to help me keep my internet connection and help at this time since my brain cancer surgery and radiation and chemo treatments as I am not allowed to work or drive because of the seizures. If you do wish to help out and donate, please use my e-mail address at pay pal. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask me Via E-mail. Good Luck Go here to find the right capacitors you need: at least two of the 3300 caps and at least 10 to 12 1000MFD caps.http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgT..., you can also contact me directly here if you need any assistance. Another thing If you replace all of the capacitors and the set still does not work Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002 also Try removing the USB connector on the chassis and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then the reader is badanother trick is to,Try disconnecting the FC connector to the FMT board and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then suspect the FMT card. or the caps on this board if all else fails: Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. If it has no hard drive just watch the green LED Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done
1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921001 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking we need your e-mail address please
--- On Mon, 8/24/09, TechLore Team
Larry,
One more time on the instructions for a WS-55613.
[email protected]
Thanks
I am also having trouble with the Blinking green light on my Mitsu. WS-55613. could you please send the repair instructions to my e-mail at ([email protected]).
I sure would appriciate the help.
Larry I have a 65725 with the green blinking light. Could you please send the repair instructions to [email protected]. Thanks in advance.
Larry,
It appears that I am not immune to the problem with MITS. I have a WS65 and have the same issue, please forward the repair instructions to me as well: [email protected]
Thanks
complete model please and please do not post any e-mail address any longer please.
Larry
Larry, I am too having the blinking green light on my mit. WS-55511. could you send me as well instructions and whereabouts to get the materials needed. thanks I am in your debt. I had a tv repare guy look at it and he quoted me $900.00 to fix. My email is
[email protected]
I have replaced the 9v regulator ( BA09 ) and I am not getting 9 volts output. I have confirmed that there is 12 volts going in, but I am only getting 10 mva on the other side. What gives? It is a new part and I thought I was careful about soldering it on the PCB. I used a heat sink and did not spend too much time after the solder flowed. Thing is, it is the second regulator I have tried. Could I have got two bad ones in a row?
(EDIT) Tried reading voltages again and did finally get 9 volts. Maybe the caps had completely discharged? I don't know.
I am considering buying a WD 52725 for $100. It also has the blinking green light of death..Curious on how much the parts are to fix this myself. And if you have any diagrams on how to do so?
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