How am I being condescending ? I do not need to prove myself to anyone my friend as like I said before, YES replacing the board is a lot easier to do for the non technical person.but to most owners they tell me that they like the challenge of fixin their tv sets I do not mean to come across that way as I do not mean too!!!
Larry Dillon
The new STK392-040 didn't work after I replaced the fuse. One of the them blew the fuse right away and on the other one I can move the lines but not enough to fix the convergence pattern. When zero convergence data is applied I see extra green vertical lines. When factory convergence data is applied the extra green lines disappear but the red pattern looks really messed up and I can't fix it even after moving the lines.
This is more challenge than what I was hoping for. I have changed the ICs and fuses twice. So, I am returning these chips and going to order a new Samsung sub deflection board from MCM electronics. It is about $109 with S/H after rebates and there is also 7% Bing cashback on top of that. It seems like the best way to fix the TV. I will also install a fan on the new board to make sure the chips run cool.
yes that is one option but,The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to TV repair kits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, click on here please: http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=larry
no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
The repair kit will be around $20 cheaper but it is more time consuming and I have lost patience. There is also a chance that some other components have gone bad due to the ICs. Only replacing the whole board can cover that.
true, true, but what if you replace the board and the tv still cannot adjust the convergence,or does not work? TV repair kits offers free on-line live tech assistance-for kit buyers!
I desoldered the bad STKs and returned them. Before I ordered the new board I decided to clean the board well and just resolder the old STKs I had removed after the power supply fuse blew. To my amazement, the TV is working fine now. I left it on for 10 hours straight without any issues.
Actually the fuse had already blown when I looked that the TV after typing the message. Murphy's law :) I am thinking of adjusting the CRT rings to try to reduce the convergence correction that's needed. Red and Blue patterns are tilted wrt green when zero covergence is applied as shown in my profile picture. It will try to align the lines to reduce the tilt on red and blue by moving CRT rings.
2-1-1 How to Enter and Exit Service Mode
1. Turn the Power ON and select “STANDARD” for the Screen Adjustment Mode.
2. Turn the Power OFF and put the set in Stand-By Mode.
3. Press these buttons sequentially to enter Service Mode : Mute_1_8_2 and Power.
♣ If you fail to enter Service Mode, try steps 1, 2 and 3 again.
4. After completing the adjustment, select Reset from Service ModeÂ’s initial screen to exit Service Mode and turn OFF the Power. After exiting, the userÂ’s custom starting screen will be selected.
5. Any adjustable data changed will be automatically saved.
→ There is no separate “Save” key.
2-1-2 Initial Display in Service Mode
Deflection
480p offset
1080i offset
Convergence & NR
Video Adjust 1
Video Adjust 2
Video Adjust 3
Video Adjust 4
Video Adjust DNIe
Option
CHECKSUM0000
Reset
2-1-3 Button Descriptions for Service Mode
1. When RF Patterns are Displayed
MENU Full Menu Dispplay / Move to Parent Menu
Direction Keys (UP)/(DN) Item Selection by Moving the Cursor
Direction Keys (LT)/(RT) Data Increase/Decrease for the Selected Item
After another failed attempt at replacing the STK ICs, I returned the ICs again and I have replaced the whole sub-deflection board instead of replacing the STK ICs this time. I got the new board for $92 for mcmelectronics. I have installed the fan on the STK heatsink also to make sure the STKs run extra cool on the new board. The TV has been working fine for the last two days. Knock on wood!
The convergence pico-fuses blew on the new board too the same day I posted the above message. Never fails! What the heck!
So, I am now using the original board with first set of replacement ICs I got with the pico fuses shorted and fan installed. I have all 6 convergence controls working and did the whole convergence settings from scratch. The picture is now perfect. These ICs that blown the 6.5 AMP fuse on the power supply before but not the pico fuse. Anyway, the picofuse won't blow now because it ain't there :)
to me it seems to be a resistor on main board that is week or even a capacitor. i would check that if tv continues to blow fuse's. fuse's don't normally blow if the power going through them is correct. my guess is because it takes time before fuse blows its a capacitor causing the problem. caps only have a certain life time before they become weak and fail. if you don't have a tester just replace with equal or higher power rating.
There are so many capacitors and resistors and I don't know which one to replace. However, the TV has been working fine for the last 4 days. There is a chance that I had done the convergence settings wrong and the ICs were drawing too much current to over compensate.
are the ic's getting very hot??? or are they getting so hot you cannot keep your fingers on them for a few secounds?
Is the problem with the set corrected?
Larry
let just hope that you fixed the problem. if not when fuse pops check electrolytics near or for power being supplied to sub-board. i had an old radio that did not work right i replaced all the caps( about 30 ) and the radio worked like new after. pain in the rear to change. this is just good info to have. caps will fail when old they dry out and don't hold there value.(same with resistors) some times the even explode. happy hunting
The ICs were getting so hot that I couldn't keep my fingers on them for more than a few seconds. But since I installed a fan powered by the TVs internal 13.5V supply on the heatsink, the ICs only get a bit warm. I am also operating the set without the back cover to keep it cool.
I haven't seen any issues with the set for the last five days after I re-soldered back the first set of ICs I bought from Pacific Semi and re-did the convergence settings from scratch starting from the convergence zero settings.
I had replaced the whole board and the fuse still blew and I had once changed the service mode settings and don't remember what the original factory setttings were
Given all this, I am surmising the main issue is the settings in covergence and service mode or it could be an issue with a capacitor or resistor on the power supply or main board as suggested by nunoit.
Thanks nunoit. It have already spent countless hours on this set and not going to give up easily :) Everything seems to be working fine now.
I was looking for an Electrolytic capacitors that had blown but I couldn't see anything that looked deformed. The rubber seals looked fine on all of them. I ohmed out all the power resistors as well. None of them were open.
I see that you wont give up. As you know caps can look like you took them off the shelf that dose not mean there good you need to remove them and to test to see if there in range of the written value. I am not an expert just speaking from experience. I have found entire power supply fail because of a cap resistor combo (an r/c oscillator)as for power resistors they tend to be more trouble you have to test them under load. Not a good idea i uasually don't bother i just replace them. if the device is real close to the border line of tolerance chances are it could fail under working conductions. Over the years i have built a small arsenal of tools to debug appliances. My advice is to borrow a good cap tester and go from there. you might be surprised. Joe
Yesterday when I pluged in the S-Video source from my computer the image was offset to the right side. I powered up the TV in service mode and changed the H-Shift from 87 to 106 to center the image on the TV. Then when I powered cycled the set to bring it up in normal mode, the convergence was completely off indicating the ICs had shutdown. I immediately shut off the set and shut off the S-Video source. Then I powered the set up again and changed the source to my Satellite DVR. The converenge looked fine but after about 30 seconds the convergence was completely off. I powered off the set immediately and powered it back up in service mode to set the H-Shift back to 87. The convergence issue was fixed. I guess there must be some over-current shutdown in STK392-040 which makes the fuse redundant.
However, the image from computer on S-Video in is slightly offset to the right. How do I fix this?
It seems that the current going through the convergence ICs varies based on H-Shift and possibly other settings. This suggests that my problems are settings related. Is there a good way to do the settings to minimize the current going through convergence ICs?
I am wondering if you realize there is another convergence board that every body over looks. Its a plug in mod should be from right to left 3rd board under metal cover. That board controls the convergence amps to begin with. So far in my set i found bad caps on that board. i have the complete manual for the samsung (same as acai) tv with schematics.model p5598hdx/sms. I think it cost me about 50 bucks. don't remember. Thats how i know what that tv has in it. you might want to look there just a suggestion.
that manual is also available here on this site for free!!!! it is located in the technicians corner just go to the home page and click on resourses tab then click on the technicians corner box then to see all downloads then scroll down till you see it then click on it.
nunoit, why cant you go to the tech corner and contribute the manual for someone else????
Larry D.(AKA)Techman
could also be an issue with the pre subdrive amp board that is attached and plugs into this convergence driverboard with the convergence attached to it.
look for popped capacitors or burnt resistors!!!!
Larry D.
could also be an issue with the pre subdrive amp board that is attached and plugs into this convergence driverboard with the convergence attached to it.or you could be using non-original convergence ic'sthat issue causes a lot of problems
look for popped capacitors or burnt resistors on the sub board.!!!!
Larry D.
I confirmed with Pacific Semi that these are 100% original ICs. I have gone through three sets of other ICs which were no good. Then installed a whole new board from Samsung and fuse blew in a couple of days.
I think that the settings are wrong. I have the Samsung Manual which I got from this site thank you :)
However, the factory default setting for V-Size in that manual is 120. I have to use 240 otherwise the picture gets too short and doesn't fill the height of the screen. It is possible that some capacitors or resistors are blown on the other convergence board that nunoit mentioned above, which are causing the original settings to not working.
nunoit, Is it easy to remove the other convergence board? I am wondering whether I should try to remove it and inspect the capacitors since the TV is working fine now expect for Horizontal Shift with S-Video input from computer. Can you say which caps were bad? I will check those first.
it seems that i may upset Larry D. sorry.I don't browse your site and why should i add these schematics if you all ready have them. as for electrohobby to answer your question, i simply removed one at a time and checked if fail'd i replaced with standard cap not smt left leads a little long so i could bend cap flat on board with tails long enough to solder onto board. there 9 caps on board. i replaced 5 which were leakey. that does not mean anything unless you can test caps. Larry D. maby you can tell electro where he can get a replacement sub-board since your in the business. like i said before im am not a tech just a hobby to me. don't bash me trying to help some one, who is not in the business.
Larry Dillon said: that manual is also available here on this site for free!!!! it is located in the technicians corner just go to the home page and click on resourses tab then click on the technicians corner box then to see all downloads then scroll down till you see it then click on it. nunoit, why cant you go to the tech corner and contribute the manual for someone else???? Larry D.(AKA)Techman
Say Llarry whats your problem don't you know how to read did i tell him to pay me for the manual. i'm giving free advice just like a good neighbor is that a problem. i don't make a penny her i'm sure you do.
and you think I get paid here? no one does!!!!!!!!!!I spend hours and cash on manuals sometimes on research and time making some of these DIY doc"s Larry D.
How am I being condescending ? I do not need to prove myself to anyone my friend as like I said before, YES replacing the board is a lot easier to do for the non technical person.but to most owners they tell me that they like the challenge of fixin their tv sets I do not mean to come across that way as I do not mean too!!!
Larry Dillon
The new STK392-040 didn't work after I replaced the fuse. One of the them blew the fuse right away and on the other one I can move the lines but not enough to fix the convergence pattern. When zero convergence data is applied I see extra green vertical lines. When factory convergence data is applied the extra green lines disappear but the red pattern looks really messed up and I can't fix it even after moving the lines.
This is more challenge than what I was hoping for. I have changed the ICs and fuses twice. So, I am returning these chips and going to order a new Samsung sub deflection board from MCM electronics. It is about $109 with S/H after rebates and there is also 7% Bing cashback on top of that. It seems like the best way to fix the TV. I will also install a fan on the new board to make sure the chips run cool.
yes that is one option but,The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to TV repair kits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, click on here please: http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=larry
no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
The repair kit will be around $20 cheaper but it is more time consuming and I have lost patience. There is also a chance that some other components have gone bad due to the ICs. Only replacing the whole board can cover that.
true, true, but what if you replace the board and the tv still cannot adjust the convergence,or does not work? TV repair kits offers free on-line live tech assistance-for kit buyers!
I desoldered the bad STKs and returned them. Before I ordered the new board I decided to clean the board well and just resolder the old STKs I had removed after the power supply fuse blew. To my amazement, the TV is working fine now. I left it on for 10 hours straight without any issues.
If the fuse blew once it will most likely blow again? Can't say when? Could be tomorrow, Maybe next month, Maybe next week?
Larry.
Actually the fuse had already blown when I looked that the TV after typing the message. Murphy's law :) I am thinking of adjusting the CRT rings to try to reduce the convergence correction that's needed. Red and Blue patterns are tilted wrt green when zero covergence is applied as shown in my profile picture. It will try to align the lines to reduce the tilt on red and blue by moving CRT rings.
just do not bear down on the rings to much as they can snap very easy try to mark them where you start in case you need to put them back.
Larry
SHN,
This is from the manual, hope it helps
2. Alignment and Adjustments
2-1 Service Mode
2-1-1 How to Enter and Exit Service Mode
1. Turn the Power ON and select “STANDARD” for the Screen Adjustment Mode.
2. Turn the Power OFF and put the set in Stand-By Mode.
3. Press these buttons sequentially to enter Service Mode : Mute_1_8_2 and Power.
♣ If you fail to enter Service Mode, try steps 1, 2 and 3 again.
4. After completing the adjustment, select Reset from Service ModeÂ’s initial screen to exit Service Mode and turn OFF the Power. After exiting, the userÂ’s custom starting screen will be selected.
5. Any adjustable data changed will be automatically saved.
→ There is no separate “Save” key.
2-1-2 Initial Display in Service Mode
Deflection
480p offset
1080i offset
Convergence & NR
Video Adjust 1
Video Adjust 2
Video Adjust 3
Video Adjust 4
Video Adjust DNIe
Option
CHECKSUM0000
Reset
2-1-3 Button Descriptions for Service Mode
1. When RF Patterns are Displayed
MENU Full Menu Dispplay / Move to Parent Menu
Direction Keys (UP)/(DN) Item Selection by Moving the Cursor
Direction Keys (LT)/(RT) Data Increase/Decrease for the Selected Item
After another failed attempt at replacing the STK ICs, I returned the ICs again and I have replaced the whole sub-deflection board instead of replacing the STK ICs this time. I got the new board for $92 for mcmelectronics. I have installed the fan on the STK heatsink also to make sure the STKs run extra cool on the new board. The TV has been working fine for the last two days. Knock on wood!
The convergence pico-fuses blew on the new board too the same day I posted the above message. Never fails! What the heck!
So, I am now using the original board with first set of replacement ICs I got with the pico fuses shorted and fan installed. I have all 6 convergence controls working and did the whole convergence settings from scratch. The picture is now perfect. These ICs that blown the 6.5 AMP fuse on the power supply before but not the pico fuse. Anyway, the picofuse won't blow now because it ain't there :)
to me it seems to be a resistor on main board that is week or even a capacitor. i would check that if tv continues to blow fuse's. fuse's don't normally blow if the power going through them is correct. my guess is because it takes time before fuse blows its a capacitor causing the problem. caps only have a certain life time before they become weak and fail. if you don't have a tester just replace with equal or higher power rating.
There are so many capacitors and resistors and I don't know which one to replace. However, the TV has been working fine for the last 4 days. There is a chance that I had done the convergence settings wrong and the ICs were drawing too much current to over compensate.
are the ic's getting very hot??? or are they getting so hot you cannot keep your fingers on them for a few secounds?
Is the problem with the set corrected?
Larry
let just hope that you fixed the problem. if not when fuse pops check electrolytics near or for power being supplied to sub-board. i had an old radio that did not work right i replaced all the caps( about 30 ) and the radio worked like new after. pain in the rear to change. this is just good info to have. caps will fail when old they dry out and don't hold there value.(same with resistors) some times the even explode. happy hunting
The ICs were getting so hot that I couldn't keep my fingers on them for more than a few seconds. But since I installed a fan powered by the TVs internal 13.5V supply on the heatsink, the ICs only get a bit warm. I am also operating the set without the back cover to keep it cool.
I haven't seen any issues with the set for the last five days after I re-soldered back the first set of ICs I bought from Pacific Semi and re-did the convergence settings from scratch starting from the convergence zero settings.
I had replaced the whole board and the fuse still blew and I had once changed the service mode settings and don't remember what the original factory setttings were
Given all this, I am surmising the main issue is the settings in covergence and service mode or it could be an issue with a capacitor or resistor on the power supply or main board as suggested by nunoit.
Thanks nunoit. It have already spent countless hours on this set and not going to give up easily :) Everything seems to be working fine now.
I was looking for an Electrolytic capacitors that had blown but I couldn't see anything that looked deformed. The rubber seals looked fine on all of them. I ohmed out all the power resistors as well. None of them were open.
I see that you wont give up. As you know caps can look like you took them off the shelf that dose not mean there good you need to remove them and to test to see if there in range of the written value. I am not an expert just speaking from experience. I have found entire power supply fail because of a cap resistor combo (an r/c oscillator)as for power resistors they tend to be more trouble you have to test them under load. Not a good idea i uasually don't bother i just replace them. if the device is real close to the border line of tolerance chances are it could fail under working conductions. Over the years i have built a small arsenal of tools to debug appliances. My advice is to borrow a good cap tester and go from there. you might be surprised. Joe
Yesterday when I pluged in the S-Video source from my computer the image was offset to the right side. I powered up the TV in service mode and changed the H-Shift from 87 to 106 to center the image on the TV. Then when I powered cycled the set to bring it up in normal mode, the convergence was completely off indicating the ICs had shutdown. I immediately shut off the set and shut off the S-Video source. Then I powered the set up again and changed the source to my Satellite DVR. The converenge looked fine but after about 30 seconds the convergence was completely off. I powered off the set immediately and powered it back up in service mode to set the H-Shift back to 87. The convergence issue was fixed. I guess there must be some over-current shutdown in STK392-040 which makes the fuse redundant.
However, the image from computer on S-Video in is slightly offset to the right. How do I fix this?
It seems that the current going through the convergence ICs varies based on H-Shift and possibly other settings. This suggests that my problems are settings related. Is there a good way to do the settings to minimize the current going through convergence ICs?
the ic's you used could be the problem unless you are 100% sure that thay are original IC's as that can cause your problem!!
Larry D.
I am wondering if you realize there is another convergence board that every body over looks. Its a plug in mod should be from right to left 3rd board under metal cover. That board controls the convergence amps to begin with. So far in my set i found bad caps on that board. i have the complete manual for the samsung (same as acai) tv with schematics.model p5598hdx/sms. I think it cost me about 50 bucks. don't remember. Thats how i know what that tv has in it. you might want to look there just a suggestion.
that manual is also available here on this site for free!!!! it is located in the technicians corner just go to the home page and click on resourses tab then click on the technicians corner box then to see all downloads then scroll down till you see it then click on it.
nunoit, why cant you go to the tech corner and contribute the manual for someone else????
Larry D.(AKA)Techman
could also be an issue with the pre subdrive amp board that is attached and plugs into this convergence driverboard with the convergence attached to it.
look for popped capacitors or burnt resistors!!!!
Larry D.
could also be an issue with the pre subdrive amp board that is attached and plugs into this convergence driverboard with the convergence attached to it.or you could be using non-original convergence ic'sthat issue causes a lot of problems
look for popped capacitors or burnt resistors on the sub board.!!!!
Larry D.
I confirmed with Pacific Semi that these are 100% original ICs. I have gone through three sets of other ICs which were no good. Then installed a whole new board from Samsung and fuse blew in a couple of days.
I think that the settings are wrong. I have the Samsung Manual which I got from this site thank you :)
However, the factory default setting for V-Size in that manual is 120. I have to use 240 otherwise the picture gets too short and doesn't fill the height of the screen. It is possible that some capacitors or resistors are blown on the other convergence board that nunoit mentioned above, which are causing the original settings to not working.
nunoit, Is it easy to remove the other convergence board? I am wondering whether I should try to remove it and inspect the capacitors since the TV is working fine now expect for Horizontal Shift with S-Video input from computer. Can you say which caps were bad? I will check those first.
it seems that i may upset Larry D. sorry.I don't browse your site and why should i add these schematics if you all ready have them. as for electrohobby to answer your question, i simply removed one at a time and checked if fail'd i replaced with standard cap not smt left leads a little long so i could bend cap flat on board with tails long enough to solder onto board. there 9 caps on board. i replaced 5 which were leakey. that does not mean anything unless you can test caps. Larry D. maby you can tell electro where he can get a replacement sub-board since your in the business. like i said before im am not a tech just a hobby to me. don't bash me trying to help some one, who is not in the business.
Say Llarry whats your problem don't you know how to read did i tell him to pay me for the manual. i'm giving free advice just like a good neighbor is that a problem. i don't make a penny her i'm sure you do.
I wish I did!!!!
Larry
and you think I get paid here? no one does!!!!!!!!!!I spend hours and cash on manuals sometimes on research and time making some of these DIY doc"s Larry D.
and I was not bashing you please accept my apology if you thought I was but it was not ment like that!!
Larry D.
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